2001 8.1L 4x4 suburban stalls dies


socalrob
01-01-2004, 12:38 AM
My 2001 8.1L 2500 Suburban LT stalls / dies with no warning while driving under light acceleration, coast downs, maybe hard acceleration (not sure). Just prior to stalling it is running perfect. After stall it is hard to start. May take 4 or 5 cranks, or sometimes takes as long as 20 minutes. I normally try shifting between park and nuetral to start. Have loosened gas cap when it won't start but cannot detect any vacuum. Does not seem to help/hurt restart. This has happened on freeway, at stoplights, in intersections making turns. In hot weather and in cold (well, cool, I do live in LA). A few times after a normal shutoff, hours later the truck is hard to start in same manner. I have called AAA a couple of times only to get it started when the tow arrives. When it does start, it normally runs perfect. A few times the engine service light stays on for a few hours.

This has happened maybe 30 times in 9 months. Have had it to the dealer twice. First time dealer talked me into air filter, gas filter, injector cleaner. Made no difference. Truck had about 25,000 miles at the time. Second time dealer kept it a few days, supposedly drove it some miles, never saw the fault. My gut feeling says its electrical, runs to good right before and after problem.

Truck no has 33K miles. Am at wits end, wife isn't comfortable driving it. My personal mechanic (I have some work trucks) says to give it back to the dealer as a lemon. Does anyone have any ideas? I like the truck, my 3rd Sub., still have No. 1 (89 2500 4x4 w/ 200k miles). Please help. Rob.

GMMerlin
01-01-2004, 08:51 AM
My 2001 8.1L 2500 Suburban LT stalls / dies with no warning while driving under light acceleration, coast downs, maybe hard acceleration (not sure). Just prior to stalling it is running perfect. After stall it is hard to start. May take 4 or 5 cranks, or sometimes takes as long as 20 minutes. I normally try shifting between park and nuetral to start. Have loosened gas cap when it won't start but cannot detect any vacuum. Does not seem to help/hurt restart. This has happened on freeway, at stoplights, in intersections making turns. In hot weather and in cold (well, cool, I do live in LA). A few times after a normal shutoff, hours later the truck is hard to start in same manner. I have called AAA a couple of times only to get it started when the tow arrives. When it does start, it normally runs perfect. A few times the engine service light stays on for a few hours.

This has happened maybe 30 times in 9 months. Have had it to the dealer twice. First time dealer talked me into air filter, gas filter, injector cleaner. Made no difference. Truck had about 25,000 miles at the time. Second time dealer kept it a few days, supposedly drove it some miles, never saw the fault. My gut feeling says its electrical, runs to good right before and after problem.

Truck no has 33K miles. Am at wits end, wife isn't comfortable driving it. My personal mechanic (I have some work trucks) says to give it back to the dealer as a lemon. Does anyone have any ideas? I like the truck, my 3rd Sub., still have No. 1 (89 2500 4x4 w/ 200k miles). Please help. Rob.


First, your truck is covered under a 3 year 36000 bumper to bumper warranty..the dealer is obligated to repair your truck at no charge to you.
Second, if the SES light has been coming on, then a code has been stored that may help in the diagnostics and repair of your vehicle.
A couple things come to mind in regards to your problem,
Power moding..if a module loses its power, it can cause a stall and hard restart
Fuel system, an intermittantly binding fuel pump can cause this condition

99ssconv
01-01-2004, 09:59 AM
check the grounds at the body mount area just behind the drivers front tire on the frame, one of these is the fuel pump ground,

socalrob
01-01-2004, 02:29 PM
thanks for both of the responses. I will look at the ground & pass the other info to the dealer.

My problem is that the dealer says they can't fix it, they can't see it, and they don't seem to care.

socalrob
01-01-2004, 06:47 PM
I checked the ground bolt per 99ssconv. Bolt is tight & wires look in good shape. Good thought though. Thanks.

socalrob
01-04-2004, 03:14 AM
Does anyone have any other ideas?

majorjc
01-04-2004, 11:57 PM
Does anyone have any other ideas?

The only other idea that I have is to go to another dealer. If there isnt another one in your town then go to a nearby city.

The difference between 2 different dealer service department can be like night and day..... I know from experience.

I will drive 50 miles to take my wife's Expedition in because the service department is so customer oriented and the local dealers service guys act like I'm inconvieniencing them by being there.

Lucily my local GMC dealer is top notch, so my 1999 GMC Suburban get's good local service.


Just my :2cents: worth.

Major

socalrob
01-05-2004, 12:28 AM
The dealer in question actually gets high marks from my mechanic. In CA I think I may need to give them 3 tries to fix it, before invoking the lemon laws.

jimh
01-06-2004, 03:48 AM
I agree with MERLIN, if the SES light has come on, there is a code stored. I had a similar problem with a flakey "Crankshaft Position Sensor" that would shut things down until it cooled off for awhile. Does your problem seem to be related to temperature (not California, engine)? I have never had the pleasure of buying an new burb, but if I did I would offer to swap trucks with the dealer for a month and let him consider the lemon law. Good Luck.

Dr. Eagle
01-08-2004, 10:30 PM
thanks for both of the responses. I will look at the ground & pass the other info to the dealer.

My problem is that the dealer says they can't fix it, they can't see it, and they don't seem to care.

Time to start writing letters to the dealer and find out who is the area tech rep for GM or chevy and write letters to them. This is a 45K piece of consumer goods, they have to get to the bottom of it. In fact you could bring up that with the engine dying at all speeds it is really a safety hazzard...and maybe the government should know about it????
I have a K2500 8.1L and have had issues with the engine, but not dying like yours. My issues were caused by exhaust gas in the Air Injection Reactor tubes backing out past the check valves and melting rubber hoses all over the wiring harness. It took writing nasty grams to Chevrolet to get them off the dime (couldn't find a wiring harness and the new year versions were different). Still I was without the car for 3 months while they "thought" about how to fix it.
Sometimes they just need a boot in the rear end.
All that being said, I think the other posts on this thread are logical, either a ground issue with the fuel pump, the computer, or an obstruction of some type in the fuel system.
Good luck!
:uhoh:

Dr. Eagle
01-08-2004, 10:34 PM
I agree with MERLIN, if the SES light has come on, there is a code stored. I had a similar problem with a flakey "Crankshaft Position Sensor" that would shut things down until it cooled off for awhile. Does your problem seem to be related to temperature (not California, engine)? I have never had the pleasure of buying an new burb, but if I did I would offer to swap trucks with the dealer for a month and let him consider the lemon law. Good Luck.
Now that you mention it, I had a problem with the Camshaft position sensor, but it just made the engine hiccup...usually when you were pulling out to pass another car. They have had a "silent recall" on the sensor according to the dealer, but I am pretty sure that was the camshaft not the crankshaft sensor.

Dr. Eagle
01-10-2004, 08:03 PM
This happened a couple of years ago, so I had forgotten about it. It started with the engine hiccuping and then the SES light would come on. Then it got to where the engine would suddenly die just like yours is. I took it to the Dealer and his mechanic took it out and it quit and stranded the Mechanic on the freeway.
So this was the Camshaft sensor that was the subject of a service bulletin that was causing the problem. Very similar symptoms to yours. Maybe your dealer needs to read their mail from GM?????

terryinatlanta
01-12-2004, 05:25 PM
How about the crankshaft position sensor?
I have seen similar posts on other boards that were fixed by replacing this item. Some people carry a spare. Common problem on 8.1.

GMMerlin
01-13-2004, 06:13 AM
Now that you mention it, I had a problem with the Camshaft position sensor, but it just made the engine hiccup...usually when you were pulling out to pass another car. They have had a "silent recall" on the sensor according to the dealer, but I am pretty sure that was the camshaft not the crankshaft sensor.


There is no such thing as a "silent recall"....automotive urban legend

Dr. Eagle
01-13-2004, 09:08 PM
There is no such thing as a "silent recall"....automotive urban legend

OK I stand corrected...however I have been touched by them in the marine side of the world, so I will go on fooling myself into thinking they do exist...

Regardless, if they did exist this would not have been one. It was simply a service bulletin. There was a service bulletin on the matter, and I was fortunate that the intermittent problem ended up stranding the mechanic on his test drive. Not in my imagination now, is it? But it may well have been the crankshaft sensor. I am not home this week or I'd look in the file to see.... :grinno:

dpcrane
01-19-2004, 10:53 PM
This may have nothing to do with it, but my dad's '02 explorer Sport Trac has had a similar stalling problem. I didn't pay much attention to it until it happened when he and I were 3 hours from home. It happened right after a fill up. He took it back to the dealer and they admitted a possible problem with filling the tank to the top causing some sort of vapor lock. Does your problem happen only with a full tank? Good luck.

socalrob
01-22-2004, 10:42 PM
Thanks for the advice here. I took the Sub back to the dealer for another try. They finally found something.

Tech wrote:

" Scope & scanned. Had Code P0335 and very intermintent stalling problem. Tested and replaced bad crank sensor. S.T. to remove crank sensor that was siezed in it's bore and broke while trying to remove it. Cleared Code.

Replaced 1 part no. 12575172 Sensor 2.383 "

I've driven truck for about an hour. No plroblems yet!

BTW - stalling problem was unrelated to weather or gas level, although the very first time the truck stalled was on a very hot day a mile or so after a partial fillup.

Now for a question, what is a crank sensor & what does it do & where is it?

Thanks - socalrob

jimjeanandmac
01-24-2004, 10:45 AM
Hello all, I am new to these boards. I am a Ford F-350 owner who is about to buy a 2001 Burb. I came across this thread and had a bit to contribute. My apologies for the long post, but...

One: I have a fair amount of experience with Camshaft Position Sensors (specifically on my truck). The diesel generates a ton of heat, and these sensors deteriorate from heat by their nature. I have so far lost two on the truck (both under warranty due to the 100k powerstroke warranty). The bugger is, this sensor costs $185 from Ford. The same part from International (the manufacturer of the engine) is $85.

Anyway, first time I was stranded up in Maine at a campground. Engine just DIED. At first I thought bad fuel (new filter), water in the fuel (drained the buld - 5x!), clogged air filter ???( pulled the cover off to test) NOTHIN WORKED. I logged onto www.thedieselstop.com (Big Powerstroke Site) and they nailed it - cam shaft position sensor - no doubt. 1 Sensor, 10 minutes, and a 10mm wrench and the truck was perfect. It was immediate - ran perfect to DEAD.

Second time, doing seventy five down the highway - studder, studder, huge power loss, stall. Coasted off highway (BTW exactly same mileage since last failure). I knew right away. Had it towed to Ford dealership (at their expense). One sensor, ten minutes, one 10mm wrench. Truck is back to perfrect.

Now that I am out of warranty - I am getting a spare wrench and sensor into Glove Compartment.

====================

Onto Burb: Snippet from carpoint.msn.com - Sounds like it might be your problem. CPS is easy to change - if not it throw in Glove Compartment for when it does go. Then look at pumps.

"Common problems on this vehicle are failures of the Fuel Pump, Fuel Pressure Regulator and Crankshaft Position Sensor. Failure of the Fuel Pump or Crankshaft Position Sensor can cause the vehicle to stall or not start. The cost to repair the Fuel Pump is estimated at $425.13 for parts and $143.00 for labor on the side tank and $221.00 for labor on the rear tank. The cost to repair the Crankshaft Position Sensor is estimated at $90.11 for parts and $52.00 for labor. The cost to repair the Fuel Pressure Regulator is $90.24 for parts and $32.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax"

jimjeanandmac
01-24-2004, 11:58 AM
Now for a question, what is a crank sensor & what does it do & where is it?

Thanks - socalrob

Sorry, but I just realized you had posted the answer to your problem.

What is a CPS? Its a sensor that measures the specific location of the CAM as it cycles through 360 degrees. With that information, the onboard computer can do things like govern injection timing, ignition timing etc.

When the sensor begins to fail, the computer doesn't know where the engine is in the rotation, so... it can misfire the plugs, fail to inject fuel when needed (if electronic fuel injection system) and more. The obvious effects are rough idle, loss of power, or likely full stall.

socalrob
01-26-2004, 02:17 AM
Thanks for the info. After a few hundred more miles and many different trips, still no problems, so looks like truck is fixed. BTW, this truck, other than this problem, is really great. Before the fix, I had asked my dealer to start a search for an identical veh., as it fits my needs to the T.

ForidaBob
06-18-2004, 04:23 PM
I have experienced the same stalling problems with my 2002 Suburban. First dealer cleaned fuel injection $140). The problem persisted. I went to another dealer and they replaced the fuel pump in the gas tank ($900). The problem happened again about 3 months later. The dealer diagnosed the problem as a faulty fuel pump again. Fortunately for me the fuel pump comes with a lifetime parts and labor warantee so I am just out the inconvenience. We will see how long this one lasts. I have seen others suggest the problem could be the fuel pump relay (http://www.automotiveforums.com/t198842.html).

Alderman5
06-18-2004, 06:17 PM
Did anyone have any problems with the fuel pump fuses blowing? I have a 99 surburban that we are trying to diagnos. Any suggestions!!!! Thanks.

2500HD 4 ME
01-30-2005, 04:11 PM
I have a 2500HD with a 8.1 and I have the same problem as Rob. I was curious if any one has more or additional information since these postings. My truck will die without warning at any given speed or stopped, sometimes starting right back up but mostly taking between 3 to 10 minutes. It typically dies after cold starting between the first mile but before I have driven 5 miles. It typically dies once after startup. Once it starts for the second time it seldom dies again before reaching my destination. If anyone could help, It would be appreciated

jimh
02-03-2005, 01:07 AM
hey 2500hd4me,
My FIRST start problem was clogged fuel filter. Another problem I ran into on a different vehicle was one of the shaft sensors (cam or crank). If the computer thinks those are not spinning together, it will shut down (I think that is the plan). There should be some error codes stored if this problem has happened this often. Good luck!

Chuck41
02-25-2005, 10:51 PM
I have read this thread with interest as I found it through a Yahoo search because I am having the same problem with a 2001 Suburban 2500 8.1L. Can anyone tell mwe where this crankshaft sensor is so I can replace it and hopefully solve this annoying problem with my otherwise perfect truck.
Semper Fidelis

FL610
08-19-2007, 06:22 PM
Hi, purchased a 01 8.1 suburban a few months back, rather than let the parts fail i replaced the water pump, main fuel pump, belts, hoses, etc... but i now have the problem you described in the previous posts, lovely isnt it...lol i noticed the last item you changed was the crank sensor, do you think that was the root cause in your particular situation? any help would be greatly appreciated. i have the secondary fuel pump on order, including an ignition module, they probably need to changed regardless, but wanted to see if the sensor you mentioned helped Thank you!

Luisc
08-10-2009, 06:24 PM
If anyone finds out what the issue is please let me know, I just travel from Florida to Connecticut and the 2004 Z71 stalled twice, first time it has happen since I owe it from zero miles. It happen twice in South Carolina and then in Virginia. I noticed it only happen with the cruise control active. I made the rest o f the trip without cruise control and no problem, dealer in CT charged me 400.00 and found nothing.

FL610
08-10-2009, 07:25 PM
Hi - i had just bought my 2001 Suburban with 106K miles when this problem started, it was probably already present when i bought it, but anyways... The vehicle would just die, most of the time it would die when at idle, never at cruise or while driviing around, just idle. Long story short it ended up being the crank sensor on the back of the engine, i work on my own vehicles and this wasnt easy to change. Its located on the back of the engine where the engine bolts up to the tranny.

madatchevy
08-16-2011, 01:38 PM
I own a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 4x4 with about 88,000 miles on it's 8.1 L engine it. About a week ago, I was driving down the road and it just shut off! No power! No power steering, no power brakes, no engine! Thank goodness I was not on a busy highway! A day later, it happened again! Fortunately, I was, again, not a busy road. I looked up the problem on the internet and suspected that it was the crankshaft position sensor. I also found out that there is a recall for 2001 Suburbans for this very part! I took it to the dealer and when they put in my VIN number, amazingly, my truck did not qualify for a free fix! I have to PAY $450 to fix this part that is obviously a problem! This part goes bad and you can DIE! And you never know when it will start going bad! WHEN will it shut down the first time? It's like Russian Roulette! We own 3 Chevys and will NEVER buy another one! I hope it was worth the $450 they made to lose a customer for life!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chevrolet Suburban Recalls
Suburban ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING Recall ID# 48094
Recall Date
NOV 07, 2007*
Model Affected
2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN*
Description
ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH AN 8.1L*V8*ENGINE, THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION CAN OPERATE INTERMITTENTLY OR FAIL COMPLETELY. IF THE SENSOR OPERATES INTERMITTENTLY, THE SES LIGHT MAY ILLUMINATE AND THE VEHICLE MAY RUN ROUGH. THE ENGINE MAY STALL, AND IF SO, MAY RE-START IMMEDIATELY OR AFTER A COOL DOWN PERIOD.*
Consequence
IF THE SENSOR BECOMES COMPLETELY INOPERATIVE, THE ENGINE WILL QUIT RUNNING AND WILL NOT RE-START. EITHER OF THESE FAILURES CAN INCREASE THE RISK OF A CRASH.*
Remedy
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON DECEMBER 18, 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT*CHEVROLET*AT*1-800-630-2438*AND GMC AT*1-866-996-9463.*
Potential Units Affected
11974*
Notes
GENERAL MOTORS CORP. 06083

madatchevy
08-16-2011, 02:07 PM
I own a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 4x4 with about 88,000 miles on it's 8.1 L engine it. About a week ago, I was driving down the road and it just shut off! No power! No power steering, no power brakes, no engine! Thank goodness I was not on a busy highway! A day later, it happened again! Fortunately, I was, again, not a busy road. I looked up the problem on the internet and suspected that it was the crankshaft position sensor. I also found out that there is a recall for 2001 Suburbans for this very part! I took it to the dealer and when they put in my VIN number, amazingly, my truck did not qualify for a free fix! I have to PAY $450 to fix this part that is obviously a problem! This part goes bad and you can DIE! And you never know when it will start going bad! WHEN will it shut down the first time? It's like Russian Roulette! We own 3 Chevys and will NEVER buy another one! I hope it was worth the $450 they made to lose a customer for life!

Note: If yours is not covered also, please call the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration at 1-888-327-4236 and filed a complaint and they MIGHT include more VIN numbers.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chevrolet Suburban Recalls
Suburban ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING Recall ID# 48094
Recall Date
NOV 07, 2007*
Model Affected
2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN*
Description
ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH AN 8.1L*V8*ENGINE, THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION CAN OPERATE INTERMITTENTLY OR FAIL COMPLETELY. IF THE SENSOR OPERATES INTERMITTENTLY, THE SES LIGHT MAY ILLUMINATE AND THE VEHICLE MAY RUN ROUGH. THE ENGINE MAY STALL, AND IF SO, MAY RE-START IMMEDIATELY OR AFTER A COOL DOWN PERIOD.*
Consequence
IF THE SENSOR BECOMES COMPLETELY INOPERATIVE, THE ENGINE WILL QUIT RUNNING AND WILL NOT RE-START. EITHER OF THESE FAILURES CAN INCREASE THE RISK OF A CRASH.*
Remedy
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON DECEMBER 18, 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT*CHEVROLET*AT*1-800-630-2438*AND GMC AT*1-866-996-9463.*
Potential Units Affected
11974*
Notes
GENERAL MOTORS CORP. 06083

letitrain
02-08-2012, 02:06 AM
i had the same problem with this stall issue. very annoying. was only 200 #'s outside of the Recall on the problem. took me about a week of deep investigating to conclude the Crank Shaft Position Sensor indeed was the issue. only after completely dismantling all the wiring in the engine compartment. make sure when u get the new one in, it clicks 2 times.... OH, and its not easy without a lift or lowering the trans. i did do it however not removing the trans but i did drop the fuel and trans lines to make my small ass able to squeeze up there to pull it out. its just about an inch away from the bottom of the firewall on the block.

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