whats better a rb25det or a 1jz?

I want to know if a rb25det would be better that an toyota 1jz-gett what would be a better swap for my 1995 240sx ?

Well here are specs on both the RB25DE-T and the 2JZ-GTE. Unless you want throw away all your cash go with the RB25DE-T because the 2JZ-GTE costs $11,000 for installation because you need new engine mounts, custom fabrication, and it is not a Nissan engine.


RB25DE-T

Engine Cost: $5,000-6,500
Install Cost:$2,500-3,000
Stock Horse power: 247 @ 6000 rpm
Stock Torque: 217lb/ft @ 4800 rpm
Redline: 8,000 rpm
Turbo: N/A
Stock Boost: N/A
0-60 mph: N/A
1/4 mile: N/A
Modified Horsepower: 400-450hp

2JZ-GTE

Engine Cost: $2,000
Install Cost:$11,000
Stock Horse power: 320 @ 5800 rpm
Stock Torque: 315lb/ft @ 4000 rpm
Redline: 6,800 rpm
Turbo: Steel CT12B
Stock Boost: N/A
0-60 mph: N/A
1/4 mile: N/A
Modified Horsepower: 550-650hp

Well good luck with your 240sx.

-nissan240sxdude

1JZ will destroy the RB25.

Forget what you think about Nissan loyalty. If its good enough for Dart Izumi, its good enough for an American rich0kid punk like you :)

Um, you realize that the JZ costs $11,000 to install. Also I said the reasons why it costs so much is different engine mounts, custom fabrication, and because it is not an Nissan engine and you are putting it in a Nissan car it has a completely different set up.

But if you want to shell out $11,000 for installation you just go right ahead. :screwy:

u got that from kholiqs website??

i dont think the price is right

"UM, you realize.....also i said.....you just go right ahead..."-----PLEASE DONT START....JUST DONT

rb25's for 5-6k???? HE DIDINT SAY rb26DETT

MORE lIKE 3-4k


AND I DONT THINK THE LOCAL SHOP WILL SAY 11 GRAND FOR IT

more like 5

as for whats better??

THE HELL KINNA QUES.....

id say rb25det

well the total price is only like 2k different but I agree your prices are a bit(or alot) off, both are mad expensive, but if you got the money I'd say your in good shape with 1jz... or you could drop in a 20b and call it good :biggrin:

20B - Racing engine

Mazdaspeed 20B
(640x480)

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/6725620b-race-med.jpg
(Picture from 1996/1997 Mazdaspeed catalog Page 104)

This engine is currently (1997) sold by both Mazdaspeed in Japan and Mazda Motorsports in the USA, both of which are officially part of Mazda. At first I presumed this was a racing engine based on the production 20B. However on comparing the photos of the race 20B and the race 13G, plus the Mazda catalogs list this engine as using rotor housings with grooves for the water seals, I think it is still a 13G they are selling.
Also the power output and torque figures are identical (same RPM), and the weight/dimensions are almost the same.
(The grooves for the water seals were moved from the rotor housings to the side housings when the "2nd generation" RX7 (FC3S) was released in 1986)

20B Racing Engine specifications Origin Possibly same as 13G race engine, but not certain.
Capacity 654cc x 3 rotors = 1962cc
Compression ratio Unknown (But 13G is 9.4:1)
Induction Naturally aspirated peripheral port, electronic fuel injection (2 injectors per rotor)
Exhaust Peripheral Exhaust Port
Ignition Distributorless CDI ignition (2 plugs/rotor)
Power/RPM 450ps@8500rpm
Torque/RPM 40kgm@8000rpm
Max RPM Unknown (But 13G is 9500 RPM)
Dimensions Length 675mm Width 549mm Height 520mm
Weight 143kg

some specs on the 1jz motor i know the 2jz is form the supra but the 1jz im not sure? what car is it from ? stock hp? ect..
thanks
1

id have rb26dett.....

OOOH I LIKE THAT 20B...!

u got that from kholiqs website??

i dont think the price is right

"UM, you realize.....also i said.....you just go right ahead..."-----PLEASE DONT START....JUST DONT

rb25's for 5-6k???? HE DIDINT SAY rb26DETT

MORE lIKE 3-4k


AND I DONT THINK THE LOCAL SHOP WILL SAY 11 GRAND FOR IT

more like 5

as for whats better??

THE HELL KINNA QUES.....

id say rb25det

Dude, the 1JZ will wipe the floor with the RB25. Forget Nissan loyalty. The bottom end will hold 800hp stock, the cams and head designs are far superior, it has none of the Lag issues the 2JZ has, and its parellel turbos are high ly superior the the sequential turbos the 2JZ has, or the single turbo of the RB25. It revs till kingdom come, and is soo smooth. And the noises it makes..mmm..

That said, unless your drag racing, none of these motors are worth a 2nd glance. The weight distributuion and weight benefits arent worth it.

Dart Izumi only gopt away with this in D1 because his car isa track slut, so they were able to get 52/48 weight distribution by stripping out the whole damn car, but the 1JZ is lighter still than an RB25.

If you want to drag, which is what the 2.5L 6-cyl. engines are good for, you should be looking at a Supra or RX7, because a drag 240 is a waste of a highly capable platform

Turbo2nr-the 1JZ is just a de-stroked 2JZ, destroked to 2.5L, and with a paralell instead of sequential turbo system

Was the 1jz only offered on JDM supras? What years is it found? 89-92?

It was offered on Mk.III Kouki Supras(89-92 I belvie), JZX90, JZX100 and JZX110 Cresta, Chaser and Mark.II Tourer V, JZZ30 Soarer(Lexus SC300), and the JDM Aristo JZS147(old school Lexus GS300)

Most come with auto trannys, but a variety of 6-speeds, namely the Tremec T56 will bolt up. Contrary to popular belief, you dont need to pay 6grand for a Supra box, because they also came on the Mustang, Camaro, Viper, and other domestics ricers love to hate :)

hey cool some thing new to look into. sounds intresting hows the power band on this motor is it hi reving? of low end or mid range? also does ne1 have a pic thanks
1

This is really really funny....you should get an award! I will respond with a Smiley...then type what I need to type. :rofl:

Well here are specs on both the RB25DE-T and the 2JZ-GTE. Unless you want throw away all your cash go with the RB25DE-T because the 2JZ-GTE costs $11,000 for installation because you need new engine mounts, custom fabrication, and it is not a Nissan engine.


RB25DE-T

Engine Cost: $5,000-6,500 :rofl: $3250 from me
Install Cost:$2,500-3,000 :rofl: $1250 plus $350 plus $400...(driveshaft)
Stock Horse power: 247 @ 6000 rpm
Stock Torque: 217lb/ft @ 4800 rpm
Redline: 8,000 rpm :rofl: Try 6800....8k is the RB20DET or RB26DETT
Turbo: N/A :rofl: T3/T25 Hybrid
Stock Boost: N/A :rofl: 7-9 PSI
0-60 mph: N/A
1/4 mile: N/A
Modified Horsepower: 400-450hp :rofl: Over 500 on stock internals

2JZ-GTE

Engine Cost: $2,000
Install Cost:$11,000 :rofl: Bring it to me...I'll charge about half of that.
Stock Horse power: 320 @ 5800 rpm :rofl: JDM engines are limited to 280
Stock Torque: 315lb/ft @ 4000 rpm
Redline: 6,800 rpm
Turbo: Steel CT12B
Stock Boost: N/A
0-60 mph: N/A
1/4 mile: N/A
Modified Horsepower: 550-650hp

Well good luck with your 240sx.

-nissan240sxdude

You got a lotta learnin to do....read more before you decide to give advice or price quotes for that matter.

Night

That said, unless your drag racing, none of these motors are worth a 2nd glance. The weight distributuion and weight benefits arent worth it.


Actually, my RB25DET powered 240 has a 52/48 distribution...it drives, drags, and drifts just fine. Myself along with many other RB25 240 owners agree that the car handles better with the RB than it did with the KA. Until you've driven and handled the car...leave heresay to people with less respect than your 1600 posts.

Night

USDM 2jz-gte was rated at 320 wasnt it! :D Hey night, where in arizona is your shop? How long would you estimate, would it take to install a 2jz into a 90' 240sx? That'd be a completely street legal swap in california wouldn't it? (only reason I wouldn't go with any of the RB or SR engines... cuz' the chp been crackin down lately on any "illegal" modifications poppin hoods and stuff :()

USDM 2jz-gte was rated at 320 wasnt it! :D Hey night, where in arizona is your shop? How long would you estimate, would it take to install a 2jz into a 90' 240sx? That'd be a completely street legal swap in california wouldn't it? (only reason I wouldn't go with any of the RB or SR engines... cuz' the chp been crackin down lately on any "illegal" modifications poppin hoods and stuff :()

Yeah, the US model was rated at that, but we're talking Japanese here aren't we? The 2JZ Half-cut doesn't cost $2000 either...and I'd need a complete half cut in order to complete a swap.

My shop is in El Mirage, AZ. To do the complete running swap of a 2JZ into a 90 240SX would take me a couple of weeks of working on it to get all of the bugs worked out. Since the 2JZ is a US engine, you would be able to pass board in California if you registered the car as a Supra...since in Cali it don't matter who makes the car, it matters who's engine is in it... It's not a cheap swap in any means though.

Night

for the price and over all its rb25det.....

RB25DET is an awesome engine reguardless...and yes, in this car it is much better off and much cheaper...

the 11k price quote was taken from one of the only sites doing the swap on the internet...

I don't care what you will charge night...and it was a USDM 2jz...As for cost of the engine...I believe I got that from the swap site too...

And JDM engines aren't limited to 280hp...there has been so much debate that I'm sure many are above that little agreement or law or whatever you want to call it...

You could come in here telling me you'll do an rb25 swap for 5 dollars...I don't care how much you charge, that price quote isn't changing.

The 280hp Agreement, Is Just That, The Manufactures Agreed To Keep All Cars Under 280hp.... So They All Rate The Cars That Way But The Engines Produce More. Like The Rb26dett Rated At 280hp, But Produces Almost 322hp.

Well, here's my price quote for the 2JZ Swap then....$6k for the labor, wiring, mounts and driveshaft....How's them apples? There's the new standing quote...that other company can battle it out if they want to. Anyone willing to pay $11,000 for labor on a swap i an idiot unless you're getting an AWD Conversion RB30DETT or some weird ass shit like that.

The gentlemen's agreement is 280hp...true, most vehicles (the GT-R) go over that agreement in some respect...as far as AWD HP, the GT-R reaches about 280-290 all 4 wheels....and about 320 if you go RW with it.

Night

but than again why go through all that trouble on toyota when you have a NISSAN id say go with the rb25det its less expensive easier to mod and its nissan power

hold on if you are willing to spend that much go rb26dett

Actually, my RB25DET powered 240 has a 52/48 distribution...it drives, drags, and drifts just fine. Myself along with many other RB25 240 owners agree that the car handles better with the RB than it did with the KA. Until you've driven and handled the car...leave heresay to people with less respect than your 1600 posts.

Night


Of course you think it handles better than with a KA. You paid for all this crap, so you will ultimately be biased towards it.

With that said, what did it take to acheive 52/48 weight distribution? Trunk mounted battery? How much does the car weigh?

I drive a car with 50/50 weight distribution(BMW) and I wouldnt trade it for anything else(i.e I'd rather have an SR with 50/50 weight distribution and 2 less cylinders), but I am interested in how you achieved this.

but than again why go through all that trouble on toyota when you have a NISSAN id say go with the rb25det its less expensive easier to mod and its nissan power
the rb is easier to mod than the 2jz motor...
riiiight...

this is a really funny thread... b/c it's all opinion, and little fact...

I'm not biased. I own 4 240's and invest a lot of money into each of them. The RB car handles better no doubt...

52/48 is installing the RB...plain and simple. That's my weight distribution which comes out to about 50/50 with me in the car. It's so funny how people with no up front knowledge or dealings with these engines think they are an authority. My car weighs a little over 2800 pounds...it's a LE.

Night

the rb car handles better.
so you've driven a supra power 240?
or the sr20 powered 240?
or a ca18 power car?
and did you drive the rb25, rb26, or?

it's hard to claim you're not biased if you not driven all the options...

in any case, i'm not going to argue with you on it, but this thread is 90% opinion with a slight amount of fact...

the rb car handles better.
so you've driven a supra power 240?
or the sr20 powered 240?
or a ca18 power car?
and did you drive the rb25, rb26, or?

it's hard to claim you're not biased if you not driven all the options...

in any case, i'm not going to argue with you on it, but this thread is 90% opinion with a slight amount of fact...


I didn't claim to drive a Supra Powered 240...being that there are probably 2 or 3 in the states and there would be virtually no reason for me to do the swap when the RB platform is easily accessible.

Now...I have driven KA cars, SR cars, and RB cars....CA's - No, however, of my experiences, the RB handles better. I am not biased on my opinion, I judge handling and cornering on each of the vehicles when I take them out and the RB holds it's own. The KA is second and the SR is about the same...the difference between those two motors is virtually un-noticeable when it comes to handling since there is such a minor difference in weight, tranny size, and distribution. The RB transmission weighs quite a bit more than the KA or SR, thus, that weight is more central to the vehicle. The RB motor in itself weighs about 100 pounds more than the KA. If you were to relocate your battery you'd notice maybe a 50 pound difference. For people like me that also go to a lighter driveshaft, we lose about 15-20 pounds going through the center of the vehicle. Everything thing you do affects weight...whether you can feel the difference of moving a battery or not is up to you. When I was 52/48, I had my battery in front.

Night

Weight has a very direct affect on handling, generaly less is more.
By adding weight to a car you may alter things like its responiveness, willingness to turn in etc, but you are also giving the suspension and tyres a lot more work to do. The simple result will be a decrease in the ablity of both to maintian grip when cornering. Modifications will be required to allow for the extra weight, which of course should produce (if done properly) a car that handles better than it did when stock. By any chance did you also modify the suspension and change the stock tyres size?

And I am also curious about how you managed to take a front heavy car, add more weight to front and middle of the car, and even out its weight distribution. You must have removed weight from the front of the car somewhere, or added weight to the back end as well. Or you need to go and re-weigh you car and check you numbers.

If you were to relocate your battery you'd notice maybe a 50 pound difference.

Since a normal 12v automotive battery weighs between 35 and 50 pounds, it isn't a 50 pound difference...it's about a 70-100 pound difference...I'm wondering how well you can be trusted with doing a swap when you don't even understand physics.

BTW does that 6k quote include you taking the person's money or not :lol:...I'm just kidding...I'm sure you're the greatest mechanic ever...

I agree with Dorikin that you would have a biased opinion since you are the one trying to get people to pay you and to buy engines off of you. You also spent all the money and time dropping one in your own car. A few percentages shouldn't affect the car much since just changing small things like driver weight and rim choice affects the car greatly too...

Can't we just agree that all these engines are way better than domestics and leave it at that. I personally like the KA-T, CA, and RB25...but I definitely don't hate any of the other numerous fantastic engines that Japan has to offer (20b, 2jz, rb26, etc)

It's a 50 pound difference from the front of the vehicle...I am sorry if you have to be so technical, but I was not going that far into it...of course, if you take 50 off the front and move it to the back there is a 100 pound difference.

No, 6k doesn't include taking money....that's original, go suck on a blow pop and shove it up your ass. I import engines, I got fucked over and you think it's funny that my customers have had to wait up until tomorrow to get their engines? I don't find that very funny, but hey, if you wanna laugh it up , go for it.

Once again, my opinion is not biased towards the RB...but you can go ahead and think they are. My opinions are based off of driving with the different engines in the car. More frontal weight holds the car down a bit more than stock, it also creates an easier drifter by having more to rotate around and slide with....but physics should tell you that.

I'm not trying to get anyone to buy anything from me...fact is, I don't have any RB's in stock and won't have any for about 3-4 months, so I am not looking to sell em anyways...SR's are where the money is at since everyone and their brothers think they are the best thing to happen to the 240....

Night

Since a normal 12v automotive battery weighs between 35 and 50 pounds, it isn't a 50 pound difference...it's about a 70-100 pound difference...I'm wondering how well you can be trusted with doing a swap when you don't even understand physics.

BTW does that 6k quote include you taking the person's money or not :lol:...I'm just kidding...I'm sure you're the greatest mechanic ever...

I agree with Dorikin that you would have a biased opinion since you are the one trying to get people to pay you and to buy engines off of you. You also spent all the money and time dropping one in your own car. A few percentages shouldn't affect the car much since just changing small things like driver weight and rim choice affects the car greatly too...

Can't we just agree that all these engines are way better than domestics and leave it at that. I personally like the KA-T, CA, and RB25...but I definitely don't hate any of the other numerous fantastic engines that Japan has to offer (20b, 2jz, rb26, etc)

actually, an extra 100 pounds doesn't really do much to the stock suspension or the wheels and tires. If you have coilovers...you don't need to worry about anything. I did change stock tire size to 215/40/17 in front and 245/45/17 in back. I also have a GT-R LSD in the rear of the car. The 240's stock are like 54/46 as far as I know...how I achieved 52/48 I am not sure, but I have had the car weighed about 5 different times on two different scales. The racing seats could have lightened up a little of the car, the wheels could have lightened a little...who knows.

Night

Weight has a very direct affect on handling, generaly less is more.
By adding weight to a car you may alter things like its responiveness, willingness to turn in etc, but you are also giving the suspension and tyres a lot more work to do. The simple result will be a decrease in the ablity of both to maintian grip when cornering. Modifications will be required to allow for the extra weight, which of course should produce (if done properly) a car that handles better than it did when stock. By any chance did you also modify the suspension and change the stock tyres size?

And I am also curious about how you managed to take a front heavy car, add more weight to front and middle of the car, and even out its weight distribution. You must have removed weight from the front of the car somewhere, or added weight to the back end as well. Or you need to go and re-weigh you car and check you numbers.

Well thanks for the advise but wouldnt i be better off with the 1j becuse the chepest rb25 i found was $ 2,500 but that was just motor and tranny no ecu or harness with that money i can get a 1j with everthing including a skyline rearend

One more question what is the weight diffrenence between an rb25 or a 1j?

1jz is supposedly lighter than ka, and difference between ka and rb is 100lbs? Ask Night... but it seems like he got banned?

Hi All

Just a few facts to clear up some misinformation.
JDm V's US 2JZ. The US version makes more power. This is due to different turbos being used. The japanese version used slightly smaller turbos with CERAMIC turbine wheels. Great for spoolup, but not so good for durabiltiy when the boost is wound up, thus the steel turbines on the US version.

The 1JZ and RB25 can both be tuned for heaps of power. The power limit will be high provided three basic crieria are adhered to.
1. Dont use the stock turbo - Upgrade to a free flowing large turbo to minimizs the heat load on the engine and reduce exhaust back pressure. This will enable more advanced timing to be used for a given boost pressure and up goes the power figure.
2. Secondly - use a large intercooler that can keep those inlet temps at bay. Once again, cooler temps = more timing = more power.
3. Tuning is all important. You need to ensure correct timing and fuel ratios. Your will need bigger injectors and a stout fuel pump to reliably support big power figures

If you can manage these 3 you will have plenty of power. 1JZ's have easily made 450HP at the back wheels with shock internals and a trust (Greddy)T78 turbo.

Go have some fun as any of these setups will be a riot on the road.

DamianG

Read the guidelines and I'm sure all these guys already knew most of that. Brian is really getting pissed about bringing up old threads so STOP!

Even though your post was informative, don't revive old threads.

Hi All

Just a few facts to clear up some misinformation.
JDm V's US 2JZ. The US version makes more power. This is due to different turbos being used. The japanese version used slightly smaller turbos with CERAMIC turbine wheels. Great for spoolup, but not so good for durabiltiy when the boost is wound up, thus the steel turbines on the US version.

The 1JZ and RB25 can both be tuned for heaps of power. The power limit will be high provided three basic crieria are adhered to.
1. Dont use the stock turbo - Upgrade to a free flowing large turbo to minimizs the heat load on the engine and reduce exhaust back pressure. This will enable more advanced timing to be used for a given boost pressure and up goes the power figure.
2. Secondly - use a large intercooler that can keep those inlet temps at bay. Once again, cooler temps = more timing = more power.
3. Tuning is all important. You need to ensure correct timing and fuel ratios. Your will need bigger injectors and a stout fuel pump to reliably support big power figures

If you can manage these 3 you will have plenty of power. 1JZ's have easily made 450HP at the back wheels with shock internals and a trust (Greddy)T78 turbo.

Go have some fun as any of these setups will be a riot on the road.

DamianG

I'm not going to rag on you like I normally would if someone brought up an old ass thread because this is a well thought out, informative post. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/icons/icon14.gif http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/icons/icon14.gif 2 thumbs up to you for that.

the 1jz also comes in the toyota soarer. that half cut can aslo be purchased from jarcoinc.com for 2500 bucks, but it comes with an automatic transmission, youll have to get the usd, tranny from the lexus sc300. and you cant use the supra tranny because the tail housing is different.

read up like 3 posts and feel like an idiot at the same time...

leave old threads whre they are

Old thread.

-Closed