Okay, since there seems to be so many different myths out there, regarding the B20. I figured I would get a little bit of information going here, on what I know about the b20. Now, I dont claim to be a b20 expert, but I do claim to know a little bit.

1- Yes, the b20 fits in our cars.
2- Yes, you need any B series cable trans to use it in our car (hydro conversion excluded)
3- Yes, 9 times out of 10 you will need to change the manifold to any B18(A)(B) intake manifold.
4- Yes you can run a OBD0 B20
5- Yes it can be daily driven
6- If you choose to go b20/vtec it still can be daily driven.
7- "Building it right" is not all that hard.
8- Any B series part will fit this motor (any bigger pistons, will have to be aftermarket though)
9- Any B series aftermarket mount kit will work.
10- Yes a B20 will beat a B16.
11- Yes a B20/vtec will tear up a B16
12- Yes a B20/vtec can hang, if not beat, the allmighty B18C's.
13- Yes, that is on a overall stock motor.
14- No, the B20/vtec is NOt unreliable, as long as you are smart about it. Dont try to rev a stock b20/v to 9k rpms. Keep it to closer to 8k rpms.
15- Yes, the B20 sleaves are weak, if you put any piston in there besides a stock compression.
16- Yes, if you want to build a high compression b20/vtec, you will need to get the block resleaved.
17- Yes I love my b20/vtec. :)

10- Yes a B20 will beat a B16.
11- Yes a B20/vtec will tear up a B16
12- Yes a B20/vtec can hang, if not beat, the allmighty B18C's.
13- Yes, that is on a overall stock motor.



God I wish I had the money and the time...

i need to get my b16 in already.

can you use a hydro instead of a cable tranny on a b20 in a crx?

can you use a hydro instead of a cable tranny on a b20 in a crx?
Not unless you do a hydro conversion, or spend the money for the hydro kit.

Must resist urge to put money in Beater Civic Si... *ugh* :icon16:

with all those positives, i am left wondering

-how heavy is the b20 compared to the b18c/b16/d series engines?
-how much does this affect handling?

cause i have no idea, but those are of course other considerations...

with all those positives, i am left wondering

-how heavy is the b20 compared to the b18c/b16/d series engines?
-how much does this affect handling?

cause i have no idea, but those are of course other considerations...


Damn near the same as a B18a,b since the are almost identical, except for the bore size.

whats a cable to hydro coversion kit cost about i plan on getting the hasport mounts
....

whats a cable to hydro coversion kit cost about i plan on getting the hasport mounts

hasport are the ones who sell the cable to hydro conversion kit. im not sure about pricing though. i dont really consider a hydro trans to be any better than cable...plus cable is much more adjustable. plus why spend the money on a hydro conversion when you can just find a b16 cable trans in decent condition?

go here for a b20 swap guide http://www.geocities.com/extremeist45/picturesofparts.html
here for b20 dynos
http://www.importreview.com/d_2.0.html
and here for more b20 info! :bigthumb:
http://www.b20vtec.com/frontpage.html

So what is the best trans to go with the b20 b/c i heard that a b16 cable trans was the best but isn't available in the US and would have to be ordered from Japan?

i hear to go with a gsr tranny with a b20...any of you other guys recomend that?

Is a b16 j1 tranny the best to go with on a b20. If not what is? If it is where can i find one and about how much do they run?

How much would a full b20/vtec swap cost? With the addition of "building it right? And can you use the motor mounts for a b16 swap for it? And the linkage?

b16 mounts and linkage yes can be used note:he did say that ANY b series mounts/linkage can be used.
cost, come on even I can estimate the cost, no because I'm too lazy too look up prices i would say off the top of my head $2500 with cost of motor, cable tranny, mounts, linkage, ecu, misc parts, and replacing all things you should replace when swapping(belts, fluids, gaskets, new hoses, etc.).

Interesting idea Kris to do this thread.

I wanted to do this swap in a car other than a fourth gen. but they absolutely cannot pass ref. so decided against it, plus its difficult I hear.

Good idea for a thread Kris :thumbsup:

Let me ask you this... If/when I do the B16 swap, how difficult would it be to swap in a B20 block later?

Good idea for a thread Kris :thumbsup:

Let me ask you this... If/when I do the B16 swap, how difficult would it be to swap in a B20 block later?



Juist involves pulling the motor again.

As for transmissions, you can use any of the following CABLE trannies:

YS1 - 92-93 JDm Integra Rsi and Xsi (optional LSD)
Y1- JDM 88-91 Sir (has optional LSD) best tranny in my opinion
S1/J1 JDM 90-91 Integra Rsi/Xsi
S1/YS1 USDM 90-93 Integra LS/RS/GS/Special Edition (good for turbo motors, bad for all motor

I am not sure of the 92/93 Integra GSR tranny code. But it should the same as the JDM Y1

That is it

Why is a S1 trans bad for a all motor b20 setup?

Why is a S1 trans bad for a all motor b20 setup?

the only reason i know of is because the gears are really long....but then again if your b20/vtec the long gears might not be too bad

its not gonna be vtec im gonna keep it stock...do u think i can run a 14 in the 1/4 mile with the stock b20 and LS trans

its not gonna be vtec im gonna keep it stock...do u think i can run a 14 in the 1/4 mile with the stock b20 and LS trans



High 14's yes.

The LS trans is not bad, I use it. But I would prefer the B16 tranny for the shorter gearing. This January I will be making a hybrid b16 trans, with the LS fith gear, hopefully.

Yeah im not goin to be on the track everyday so i guess i'll go with the LS so my rpm's aren't real high on the highway.

I decided to get the J1 trans will i be running a high rpm at low mph. In other words when i am on the highway will my RPMs be really high and kind of bad?

What is the difference in a b20 short block and a b20 longblock?

same difference as any short and long block. short block is the block itself, long block is basically a full engine

i was wondering if there is a such thing as a complete short block...the reason i am asking is b/c i bought a b20 short block but the guy said it was complete with everything.

there are complete shortblocks, that have pictons, bearings and all, you better find out before buying

i've been thinking about doing this swap for awhile. really happy i found this thread, it helped a lot! would it be better to keep the b20 stock, then turbo it, or would it be better to but a b16 head on there, then turbo it. any advice would be greatly appreciated. also, i think that the ls tranny would go better on the turboed b20 than the b16, right? correct me if i'm wrong. thanks in advance.

i tell you that i going off my friends opions...they said to....fully build motor itr head and turbo it....make sure its a b20b or z ....b20a are weak so i hear....

i tell you that i going off my friends opions...they said to....fully build motor itr head and turbo it....make sure its a b20b or z ....b20a are weak so i hear....


You cant use the old school b20a from the early preludes.

ya i know thanks i hear there weak and consist of welding shit out and not even worth it

I am not sure of the 92/93 Integra GSR tranny code. But it should the same as the JDM Y1
Its a YS1 also. The only way to tell the difference between the cable GSR and LS tranny is to count the teeth on the final drive. The 92-92 GSR tranny is a cable version of the JDM ITR trannies, very short. :naughty:

Why does everyone like b20 vtec so much !

Its a b16a bored out with weaker walls. that's all.!!!

Just stop wasting your money and get a toda bore out kit to push ya to a 1.8 or even 1.9 litter ! :D :evillol:

Why does everyone like b20 vtec so much !

Its a b16a bored out with weaker walls. that's all.!!!

Just stop wasting your money and get a toda bore out kit to push ya to a 1.8 or even 1.9 litter ! :D :evillol:
Wow, another misinformed ignorant know-it-all. :)

Want a MoTeC ExHaUst Too y0!

i wanted to go with a b20 to put in my 4th gen civic....but i thought it might be to heavy....but im not to sure on the situation......if i had the money though i would go with the b20 or b18c

sorry i was thinkin about the H series......

So tell me now how I am misinformed??? :sly:

b16 bored out with weaker walls? Uh, no.

it can share b series parts but that does not make it a bored out b16... there is more to it than that. i found an excellent article talking about how the b20 came about and talking about its cyl sleeves and stuff I will have to find that again

hey guys i took a break for awhile and posting in the right room...I was wondeirng if you could tell me what would be the best parts to put on a b20 block which i empty it out so i can go for a fully built turbo motor someone can tell me where i can resleave my motor or get the sleaves be nice thanks....

I was wondering if i need a longer cable to hook up a b16 cable tranny to a b20b. I was told that i needed a longer cable b/c the stock one isn't long enough? And if i need another actual cable what do i need to get it out of?

I was wondering if i need a longer cable to hook up a b16 cable tranny to a b20b. I was told that i needed a longer cable b/c the stock one isn't long enough? And if i need another actual cable what do i need to get it out of?
You do not need to swap clutch cables, but you do need a throttle cable from a 90/93 Integra.

I don't know if any of you all have ever heard of a guy named Kevin danials? He has a b20 with a b18 head (I Have been told),turboed with a t3/t4 turbo!

It is one of the craziest things I have ever seen, but he can' get it to run right! He has gone through 3 motors! If any of you all are from knoxville or powell, he is quite well known!

whats the best place take my b20b block and have them redo the whole bottom end sleeve it bore it and everything anybody have a good site to go to pelase post it thanks....

Its a YS1 also. The only way to tell the difference between the cable GSR and LS tranny is to count the teeth on the final drive. The 92-92 GSR tranny is a cable version of the JDM ITR trannies, very short. :naughty:

you are correct sir. i have it in my 88 hatch with a b16a. i rebuilt the tranny, it had a busted differential. everything went back together well, im hoping to finish all the other stuff on my car soon so i can finally crank it up and see how much better it is with an ACT clutch and the GSR tranny. i had an S1 before.

Yea, I had one and I had to rebuild most of mine too.

I don't know if any of you all have ever heard of a guy named Kevin danials? He has a b20 with a b18 head (I Have been told),turboed with a t3/t4 turbo!

It is one of the craziest things I have ever seen, but he can' get it to run right! He has gone through 3 motors! If any of you all are from knoxville or powell, he is quite well known!
Cody, you crack me up and are a little misinformed. :rofl:

Why does everyone like b20 vtec so much !

Its a b16a bored out with weaker walls. that's all.!!!

Just stop wasting your money and get a toda bore out kit to push ya to a 1.8 or even 1.9 litter ! ..........



ummm actually ive been told the b20 is a bored ls block....is that true?

noo how about in your ass lives out in cali i will race you for pinks and you get a b16 and bored it out and i will run you with my b20 that a deal?

hey kris i know your out there which would be a better compression ratio if runing turbo about 4 months after motor is done but i wanna put pistons in now and drive on that witha 100 shot nos when i race i deciding go with 8.5 or 9 for ratio let me know bud which one but when i do turbo i be running 20 lbs of boast on the crvtec

Nope, another misinformed groupy.

hey kris you have a good answer for my question not sure what to do

curious on what i should do with my b20 crank have a machine shop do some work on it or get an after market one but i dont wanna stroke the motor just trying see i can mess with the crank get some kind of power out of it

IMO, its not worth the effort. Just leave it alone.

About the only thing that I would consider having done would be to have the whole rotating assembly balanced.

ya i was just told that by a friend but he said to micro something and polish it and thats it he said

Whoa, I wish I would have spotted this Thread a LOT sooner. I am a girl with a b20vtec in my '94 4dr GSR and the guys in town don't give me enough props because they've got badass Nitrous in their b16 EX's. Anyhow, thanks for the heads up on this thread for the misinformed people :)

simply a b20 block bored .020 over, blue printed, hot tanked, forged JE 11.5:1 pistons. slap on a JUN head [yes, i am aware JUN does not "make" heads, I meant it was built by JUN, with JUN internals.] with CTR cams... I realized I can't afford my JUN cams...if anyone is interested, PM me :) Oh yah, an LS hydro tranny :)
LS- I know I know, I was in the market and didn't wanna pay 600+ for a tranny so I got the LS tranny for $300

:grinno: Have A Great Day!

whats the best tranny to go with with a b20vtec?

whats the best tranny to go with with a b20vtec?



If you are boosting, a LS tranny.

Do get your rotating assembly balanced, but dont get it knife edged, opr anything crazy like that. Look into a flywheel, but since you are boosting, dont go under maybe a 12lber. The lighter your rotating assembly is, the wquicker you lose boost.

Oh yah, an LS hydro tranny :)
LS- I know I know, I was in the market and didn't wanna pay 600+ for a tranny so I got the LS tranny for $300
You wont feel the true potential for that motor until you get a shorter geared tranny. Fork out the bucks.

BTW, screw the local guys. Mad Props. :smokin:

haha jeff

You wont feel the true potential for that motor until you get a shorter geared tranny. Fork out the bucks.

BTW, screw the local guys. Mad Props. :smokin:


Haha, thanks :) True about the Tranny..I just need a running motor for now! But hey...go easy on me, after spending money on the b20 with the JUN head and JDM interior...a high school senior like Me...may be a lil poor. :grinno: Hey, anyone need GSR wheels? :) Just looked at em again today and realized they're ugly -98 GSR (swirlies).

<3

ive been doing alot of research on all kinds of swaps, and im mainly focused on the b20 swap into my car in the future, anyway i was jus wondering if anyone knew the R/S ratio on a stock b20b or z is?

same here, i cant find the r/s ratio of a b20 anywhere

ENGINE HP - B20B4
SIZE – 1973cc, engine size
DECK - 8.347in, deck height
BORE - 3.307in, standard engine bore
STRK - 3.504in, engine stroke
ROD - 5.394 in, engine rod length center to center
C-H - 1.181in, compression height of piston
PIN – 21mm, wrist pin outside diameter
H-D – 45cc, cylinder head volume
BEW - .935in, connecting rod big end width
BEB – 1.89in, connecting rod big end housing bore diameter
R/S - 1.54in, rod to stroke ratio
VA – 25deg, valve angles
VS – 31mm/28mm, valve sizes intake/exhaust diameter
D-S – D, double overhead cam
V-N – N, non v-tec
MODEL – 97-98 CRV

:smokin:

[QUOTE=kris]
15- Yes, the B20 sleaves are weak, if you put any piston in there besides a stock compression.
16- Yes, if you want to build a high compression b20/vtec, you will need to get the block resleaved.
[QUOTE]

what disadvantage does the b20 sleave give? and can it be fixed?

The sleaves crack under high compression. You can resleave them to fix this problem.

1.54 rod stroke ratio?.....Correct me if im wrong but that is kinda bad, how does one get the ration higher?

dont know man we provided you the info that you wanted....now your complaining...lol

damn right im complaining :screwy:

i have a gsr and going b20/vtec, do i keep the gsr block? would the b20 block blow on me? what does it take to blow the b20? sell the b18c1 block and rebuild b20 if it blows?

high compression is what takes to blow a b20(stock), id say do what you want to, either sell the gsr block and build the b20 one or say screw b20 and build up your GSR

my boy has a b20 turbo in his crx.
had the block resleeved, but in ne pistons, h-bems, etc.
add turbo.

poof! low 12 second crx :)

i which it was like "PooF!" for a low 12 honda :rolleyes:

how does one get the ration higher?
Put a 1.7 GSR crank in it, but then it essentially wont be a B20.

i have a gsr and going b20/vtec, do i keep the gsr block?
You could keep the gsr block and punch it out to 2 liters and have a nice b20vtec.
would the b20 block blow on me? what does it take to blow the b20?
If abused, yes I am sure that it will not last long.
sell the b18c1 block and rebuild b20 if it blows?
You could build each one to be just as capable as the next. The gsr block can handle more in stock form, but you could blow a gsr block too. I say take the gsr motor to its fullest potential and if/when it blows up, build it.

If you had two blocks side by side, a b20 and a gsr, and both were sleeved to 84mm, then the only differences in those two blocks would be the little stamp on the block.

Im glad to see people on this site not putting down b20's, its a nice change from other forums:) The b20 even in stock form is a bad ass motor, I was running consistant 14.3 with mine, it was stock other than using oem 93 integra LS cams (slightly more aggressive) intake, chip, and no exhaust. I was running mine obd-0. Also good to see that somebody else in this world knows that a stock B20, even the low compression b20b, even with an LS tranny, will OWN a stock b16 with short gears (S1, J1, Y1). If I was running b20z compression ratio with a y1 tranny I know I could have hit 13's... I really miss that engine, need to start putting one together

Also good to see that somebody else in this world knows that a stock B20, even the low compression b20b, even with an LS tranny, will OWN a stock b16 with short gears (S1, J1, Y1).
No, it will not, not without a good driver. B16A's in low level full interior hatchs with bolt ons and a good driver have run high 13's low 14's. It will come down to who has the better traction/launch and can get through the gears faster, not to mention keeping a B16A in the powerband isn't real hard. Don't get me wrong, I like the B20B/Z great motor and they go cheap so it leaves a lot of cash left over to mod them. But some of you are talking like it's going to put bus lengths between on a B16, and it's not, like I said before, it is going to come down to driver.

Never said a b20 was better than every b16 in the world, I am only saying that I have YET to see a stock b16 or a b16 with comperable mods that I had run a better time than me (14.3) And they have a short geared bad ass tranny to their advantage... b16a's are great motors, and I realize they have great potential etc, but stock vs stock I prefer a b20 all day long wether its at the track or daily driving. Ever seen a stock b16a that can spin the tires into 4th gear? Not that this means its going to be a faster car, but it does mean that this engine makes torque that b16a's can only have wet dreams about. How bout a 2.23 60ft, on street tires, launching @ 2,200 rpm? Most honda engines would fall on their tits if you launched them @ 2,200. As a matter of fact, a b20 makes more torque @ 2,200 rpm than a b16a makes at PEAK! I think about it like this...
b20b/z: fatty torque curve(more of a straight line) from 2,500-7,000
b16a: lots of horsepower from 5-8,000 rpm

In my eyes the b16a in stock form is a one trick pony, it goes really good from 5-8k rpm. I've been trying to figure out for years why people have such a hard on for b16a's

haha amen brotha i building my b2o right now b16 is over rated just like the z3 fenders...lol

ill go with the b20....i want more tq! but my ls outta do nicely for now

Well, you have fun, it's obvious you have never driven a B16A as it has a nice bit of power even below 5000rpms. Maybe mine is a weird one. And I can live with only chirping through third.

hey i found somebody whos selling a b20b motor and he said just to tell him what kinda tranny i would be using and he would send me axles he said it has 30 to 48 thousand miles on it for 450$. so my qeustion is that worth it? and what else would i need to make it work in a 91 civic si. With and intake exhaust and header im geussing id be maby running low 15's (please correct me if im wrong). your help would be greatly appreciated! thanx

which of the b20's is vtec?

i was told that none of the 2 liter CRV engines came with vtec

There is no vtec B20, but people make them all the time.

so you take the bottom end of a b20 and put a vtec head or something?

so you take the bottom end of a b20 and put a vtec head or something?
Yeah, try reading the first few posts.

I have found quite a few different B16's out there. Some that are not as strong as others, others that amaze me. But overall, I am seeing more and more "weaker" 1st gen B16's.

Overall, if it came down to me choosing between a B20, and a B16A. I would choose the B20 again, hands down. I was very impressed with what they can do.

Also, you cannot compare time slips with people on a worldwide forum. There are so many enviromental factors that take into play. Elevation, RH, etc. I could drive the shit out of my B20, not vtec hatch all day at the track, and not break into the 14's/ Yet I take a trip up to Washington, and the time dropped into the mid 14's. I sure as hell didnt learn to drive any better between that 10 hour drive.

1.54 rod stroke ratio?.....Correct me if im wrong but that is kinda bad, how does one get the ration higher?


Bore it out and the r&s will turn out better. A buddie of mine put a B16 crank and rods and a lot of machine shop work into his B20 and it comes out to a 2.2 w/ r&s of a B16. he can rev to 12 grand before the motor started testing for stress equal to 9 grrand on a B16

Bore it out and the r&s will turn out better
whered u get that from? cylinder bore has nothing to do with r/s ratio. now i can see the r/s with a b16 crank and rods but not only by boring it out. also it would have to be bored/sleeved fairly large to get 2.2 outta a b16 stroke.

what is the best head to put on a B20???? i heard a b16 head is better then a GsR heaD but what about a Type R or Prelude Vtec head????

prelude head wont fit on a b series engine.

so givin 3 crxs, 1 with b16, other with b18 and the other with b20. it will pretty much be a drivers race?

what about a b16 tranny to an ls?

O.K. I'm not putting down the B20 at all.... They are good JDM's are good but I have heard that the USDM B20's compression is not as good as the JDM's. If you look at the honda tunning AWD integra project they were running a B20/VTec and they also stated the same... JDM B20's are better. Now as far as B20's beating B16... I don't know what B16's you guys run but I have a B16 in my EF and have yet to loose to a B20. Last one I ran was a B20 in a EG HB and I'm not one of those EF's that are gutted or a bunch of weight BS. DRIVER...... driver makes a big difference. A two of my other friends are running B16's in EG's and both have also beaten B20's. Until I see the point especially converting over intake mani.'s and such I'll stick with B16's... heck I'll put my old JDM DOHC turbo ZC at 2 PSI against a B20. B20/VTec on the other hand I can't speak for since I have only heard the myths and have yet to race one or drive one. A kid at the local races where I'm at is running a Built B20/VTec running TEC 3 and I hear it goes but it's just came out last week and have yet to see it run.

Oh and you can run any B series trans EXCEPT the CR-V trans... DUH but I just had to put that in. Cable hydro LS B16 B18 not difference just if you run a cable in a hydro car or a hydro in a cable car you need to buy the converter from HASport.

1.54 rod stroke ratio?.....Correct me if im wrong but that is kinda bad, how does one get the ration higher?


you could get a b16a crank and that'll make it a near perfect 1.77:1.... however you lose .3L......... question is spin to 10k or 7.5k heh. if you could get 130fp/tq at 10k rpm that'd be almost 250hp... just some food for thought hehe.

you could get a b16a crank and that'll make it a near perfect 1.77:1.... however you lose .3L......... question is spin to 10k or 7.5k heh. if you could get 130fp/tq at 10k rpm that'd be almost 250hp... just some food for thought hehe


are you speaking of experience or just what you have heard. do you have any info on this or any links to sites? are u talking about a b16 crank in a b20 block?? there is no way the rods or the head would take that kinda rpms without some serious modifications. but that is some really intersting info.

you could get a b16a crank and that'll make it a near perfect 1.77:1.... however you lose .3L......... question is spin to 10k or 7.5k heh. if you could get 130fp/tq at 10k rpm that'd be almost 250hp... just some food for thought hehe


are you speaking of experience or just what you have heard. do you have any info on this or any links to sites? are u talking about a b16 crank in a b20 block?? there is no way the rods or the head would take that kinda rpms without some serious modifications. but that is some really intersting info.

a b16a crank WILL fit into a b20 block with no problems watsoever. they're the same block, except the bore on the b20 is 84 and the bore on the b16 is 81, and the crank is different. the only difference between a b20 and a b16 is the stroke (because the cranks are different). the b18/20 stroke is 89 and the b16 stroke is 77.4

84*84*89*3.1416 = 1972874.5344 (ie 2.0L)...
81*81*89*3.1416 = 1834471.3464 (ie 1.8L)...
81*81*77.4*3.1416 = 1595371.71024 (ie 1.6L)...


ok... so now for clearance...

deck height on a b20 = 211.84 mm
rod height on a b20 = 137mm
b20 piston comp height = 29.59
b20 piston dome height = .89mm
deck clearance = .76mm

do the math...

Block Deck Height = (Stroke/2) + Rod Length + Compression Height + Stock Deck Clearance

so.... (77.4/2) + 137 + (29.59+.89) + .76 = 206.94 which is less tahn 211.8 .. so it'll all fit.

just an fyi, i got most of this off the team-integra website (www.team-integra.net)... its a good site, but you have to register. here's a quote off an article there...




If you don't have your heart set on more displacement, the permutations and combinations are numerous. You just need to make sure the rods fit the piston and the crank, check that everything will fit in the deck height of the block you choose, and calculate the resultant displacement and rod ratio. As a popular recent example, many people try a B16A crank (77.4 mm) with LS rods (137 mm rod length) in a CRV block (84.5 mm bore when honed) to give 1736 cc, an oversquare layout, and a 1.77 rod ratio. You essentially build a 1.7 L Civic Type R Plus engine in your LS Integra that can rev like a bike.




add a b16 head to that.... oh my gosh, talk about a fun engine!!!

EDIT: on the 250hp thing... IF you're engine is pulling 130 lbs of torque at 10k rpm.... (130*10000)/5252 = 247.5hp... thats where i got that, it was all theoretical. Also... you would probably wanna replace the internals if you wanted it to last long....

ALL B20B's have the same compression, regardless if they are JDM, or USDM motors. B20Z's are the higher compression motor, which are rarer, and cost more to get.

But if you end up resleaving, and stuffing new pistons in. Go with the B20B, its still cheaper.

ALL B20B's have the same compression, regardless if they are JDM, or USDM motors. B20Z's are the higher compression motor, which are rarer, and cost more to get.

But if you end up resleaving, and stuffing new pistons in. Go with the B20B, its still cheaper.

its pointless to get the Z if you're rebuilding, for sure. more $ for crap you're gonna throw aawy.

Ok, reading all the posts, I have a few questions about the B20.

Would you aim for more RPM's, hence a near perfect R/S Ratio because more RPM's is more work done, right? Would that mean we all should be aiming for a motor that can rev higher because there will be more power gains? I.E. More torque and horsepower at 10k than 5k?

How would setting up a turbo to boost at 5k compair to 10k? What are the advantages and disadvantages?

Ok, reading all the posts, I have a few questions about the B20.

Would you aim for more RPM's, hence a near perfect R/S Ratio because more RPM's is more work done, right? Would that mean we all should be aiming for a motor that can rev higher because there will be more power gains? I.E. More torque and horsepower at 10k than 5k?

How would setting up a turbo to boost at 5k compair to 10k? What are the advantages and disadvantages?

if you're gonna boost get as close to 1.75:1 rs ratio as possible (less stress on the cylinders).... all motor keep the b20 crank. it would be hella cool having an engine that made power through 10k rpm, but the power band would be too narrow to use it with any stock tranny.... might as well keep the torque i guess.

Wait, you lose torque? Well forget that!

So, what kind of crank would I need to get close to 1.75 but without suffering too much power or liter loss?

Also, does a better R/S ratio make more power, or just prevent stress on the engine? Can you just decrease this 'stress' with really strong eternals?

Wait, you lose torque? Well forget that!

So, what kind of crank would I need to get close to 1.75 but without suffering too much power or liter loss?

Also, does a better R/S ratio make more power, or just prevent stress on the engine? Can you just decrease this 'stress' with really strong eternals?

if you're going turbo, the loss in CC's can easily be made up.... you cant really get a better r/s w/out losing CC's unless you really bore out the engine... if you used a b16 crank you'd have to bore out to 89mm on each cylinder to get 1.9L.... thats a ton, i dont even think thats possible... having the 1.7L "LS/Vtec" with the 1.77:1 would be hell acool but not very practical i think.... i d k, havent found any real-world results

So why would the R/S really matter if you dont even plan using stock internals?

So why would the R/S really matter if you dont even plan using stock internals?

huge redline... and unless you got the block sleeved you're sideloading would become a problem...

I'm thinking, resleeved block w/ forged pistons boosted, with b16 head and why do you need a high redline when you will be making power at about 4k-5.5k? Unless the R/S is robbing me power I don't really see why it would matter that much if I don't plan to rev that high.

I'm thinking, resleeved block w/ forged pistons boosted, with b16 head and why do you need a high redline when you will be making power at about 4k-5.5k? Unless the R/S is robbing me power I don't really see why it would matter that much if I don't plan to rev that high.

hmm well if you did it right you wouldnt be making your power at 4k-5.5k

DUH thats the whole f*ing point. you can make your power band whever you want it (if you know enough to match all the parts together...), however if you were really smart you'd match your power band to your transmissions gearings so that you'd fall into the power band every shift.....

You seem to lead off with every question I have. Would someone helpful or with more experience please answer my questions? Thank you.

You seem to lead off with every question I have. Would someone helpful or with more experience please answer my questions? Thank you.

wat are your questions? maybe its jsut a bad day for me and im just missing them, or they're just not clearly stated...

Would you aim for more RPM's, hence a near perfect R/S Ratio because more RPM's is more work done, right? Would that mean we all should be aiming for a motor that can rev higher because there will be more power gains? I.E. More torque and horsepower at 10k than 5k?

How would setting up a turbo to boost at 5k compair to 10k? What are the advantages and disadvantages?

What would your powerband look like up there? You would get more horsepower but your torque would take the beating? What gains would I see if I went for a higher powerband and what disadvantages would there be.

if you wanted your powerband in higher rpms, couldnt you just go with skunk 2 or toda cams with valves, valve springs, retainers, etc. that would put your powerband up to around 9k. or woudl the bottom end of a b16 not take that?

To answer your question crxtacy, the only part of the engine that would need to handle high reving would be the cylinder walls, pistons and the crank. You see, the longer your rods are, the more stress you put on your cylinder walls because your crank never pushes the piston strait up. The crank moves in a circle and the end of the rod that is connected to the crank is what connects the power from the piston to the crank. The crank never pushes strait up... ever. The only time they are all alligned are when the piston is at its peak height or at the bottom of its decend.

I guess you can say that the rod is what converts the up and down power into a circular motion which makes your motor turn. I believe rotary is more effective at the transer.

So basicly what I have learned through searching. No help from other people on the board. *cough* andera *cough* Is that shorter engines are the only good engines for reving high simply because the R/S ratio is better. The piston doesn't have to move up or down as far therefor you can get more RPM's safer.

But because the rods are so short, you can say goodbye to your torque. This is a trick of motorcycles. Especially sport bikes. They are made to rev high because they need more horses than torque to push those 400lb. monsters. Cars need more torque to push their weight. Thats why they can get away with it.

So indi cars are made to rev high because they are lightweight and aerodynamic. They can do fine with a little less torque. But racing with heavier cars like NASCAR, they CAN rev high, but not as high. They need that precious torque to move them along. They are not as aerodynamic so thats where drafting comes in.

So that said... some ricers think more horsepower is more important than torque... WELL, it WOULD be if your car was about 800 pounds lighter! Building your engines to rev higher WILL give you more horses, but will it make you go faster? Depends on how badly your car needed that torque.

THATS why you plan ahead. Hey cool, I learned something new today.

thansk for the info 96civ. figured i would ask since everyone is talking about changing cranks and rods and shit for higher rpms. i dont understand why you wouldnt get a b16 and put upgraded cams and head parts on it for like a 9k rpm redline. the entire head would be built for that.

i understand the stress being on the cylinder walls, but i dont see how 800-1000 extra rpms could fuck it up bad since the top end would be built for it. your not changing any of the internals of th engine

All depends on if your valves and walls can take it. Long rods=more stress=less rpm's. If you don't obey the red line of your engine, chances are it won't last as long. Pure and simple.

Here are the B20, 18 and 16 specs...
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/b20/b20tech.html

You will see the B16 has more horsepower, but now you know why it does, and you will know why it won't win the race.

uh.. y wont it win the race. the rod stroke is damn near perfect. yes it has the most horse power and the smalled amount of torque, but with the short geared tranny, for it to stay in its power band isnt really hard.

between the b20, vs the b16, i believe its a drivers race.

my question is though, with a skunk 2 stage 2 cam set and vavles, retainers, and springs, a head ment for 9k rpms and a top end to take it, will a stock b16 bottom end take it, i know the good rod stroke ratio is ment for a high reving engine, but is the 2nd get b16 bottom end good enough to take a couple extra hundred rpms.

yeah have givin me alot of info which i am thankful for. dont mind gaining knew knowledge every day.

Well, the b16 has a R/S of 1.74. That is better than all the other leading engines, but you really do have to upgrade the engine a whole lot more than just what your talking about. If your reving that high, your going to be making a LOT more heat... so at that point its not about breaking your engine, its about warping it. I would think you would need forged pistons and stronger cylinder walls at the least.

You have to really think about the R/S Hype thats going on all the time. If you think about it, there is no perfect R/S because your rod will be pushing your piston into your walls in each and every stroke except at the top and bottom of its travel which unfortinately is when your creating no power because the piston isn't moving! It turns around and gets shoved into the wall again and again, except if your reving twice as much, your creating twice as much stress on the engine. Heat will rise and walls will warp.

Now I'm sure you can rev high safely, but you do need to fix up your bottom end to handle the additional stress and heat. If I wanted my engine to last, the least I would do is a resleeve with forged pistons, and maybe a little lighter crank.

I would just keep in mind that people that do take real advantage of a high rev limit have short v8's and v12's because they will still have torque to back up all that HP. A 4 cylinder is just not as good at this IMO because people will be passing you up every time because you dont have the power to back it up. Hell, indy cars have 24 cylinders and a really high rev limit and can obviously tear anyone a new one.

Also, keep in mind:

Profesional drag racers that have a really high powerband don't measure how long their engine lasts in miles... they measure in minutes.

I also want to add that I have a Nitro RC Car, and it can rev to about 45k. The reason for that is because the rod is only I think... an inch long. RC Cars dont need much torque to push 3 lbs.

http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/crvtec/images/crx-b16-dyno1.jpg
I also found a dyno of a b16. It appears to be stock. Notice where the torque falls off?

They shut it down at redline 8100 RPM's. But notice the torque peaks at about 6200 and then begins to fall down? Horsepower keeps going up, and your just replacing horses for torque.

And heres the B20.
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/b20/dyno/MFSvsMFRwcat.gif
They look similar, but the extra .4L of displacement gives it that extra torque while the 1.6L doesnt have more torque, but more horsepower and can rev higher.

And here is both put together.
http://www.importreview.com/dyno/2.0/20b20vtec42.jpg

Now THATS NICE! Its my dream to get a B20 with a B16 head, resleeve, forged pistions, just everything modified... and then turbo it with 30+psi. Simply bad-a$$!

how much am i looking at for resleeving? or if i didnt change the rpms, how much power would i need before i resleeve?

Well I'm just pulling this one out of my bum, but you probably won't need to resleeve for extra strength unless your going... over 10k? Does that sound right? Good R/S and walls on the B16 help, but I think it may cause premature wear on the engine :confused: I would like to know this one myself as well, maybe someone can fill us in?

But I would think you need extra cooling for a high reving engine as well.

thats what i figured. yes cooling would probley help. are the rods and crank different from the b16 to the b16b? they rev to 9k stock.

You know... why am I the one that looks for the answers... why dont you go search some? :D

are the rods and crank different from the b16 to the b16b? they rev to 9k stock.
b16 = b16 The only real differences are the compression and cam profiles. Why would you put those into a b20 anyways?

I'm using a gsr tranny on my DOHC CRVtec and it works great. Actually I have it pulled right now to replace syncros and flywheel. But it has worked great so far.

Okay iam thinkin of gettin the b20 +b18c1 head , do u guys think id have a problem wiht the sleaves??? and if so i remmber seein some one say 10k for reslevin is that ture?!?!?

10k? Yeah right! The engine isn't even worth that much!

You shouldn't have problems with the stock sleeves unless your boosting.

so what your saying is that if i resleeve it will be good as new?!?! no more problems with it ?!?!? because later on i plan to get a gen 3 turbo kkit

so what your saying is that if i resleeve it will be good as new?!?! no more problems with it ?!?!? because later on i plan to get a gen 3 turbo kkit

I did not say anything of the sort. I also have no idea the status of this 'block' so how can I answer that question? :sly:

okay here are the parts i plan to put on my B20b
WISECO IB spec 12.5:1 pistons
PROBE custom length rods
Tit. wrist pins
B16 pr3 head
CROWER titanium valvetrain
CROWER custom camshafts
CROWER oversize in/ex valves
NGK ignition wires
DC Sports header w/mod 2.5 collector
3" cat back mandrel bent exhaust w/turbo black apex canister
Fluidyne aluminum radiator
HONDATA s100 system
ITR intake manifold
RC 310 Injectors
AEBS fuel rail
GS-R S80 Trans.(open diff.)
ACT 6 puck clutch
prothane bushings
Endyn Breather kit
cold air intake
MSD external coil
SUN auto Hyperground kit
Oil Cooler/filter relocation

Should i need to resleeve it??!

If you are going to be doing some serious turbo charging, yes. A resleeve is essential relentless of its condition.

okay thank you mr 96civic

sorry to bring up an old thread but if you are going to destroke the b20b go with atleast a b18c crank. a b16 crank in a b20b will not be 1.74 r/s, itll actually be 1.84, but you will need custom rods and you lose a lot of displacement. imo the crank should be left stock, longer rods will add more reciprocating weight, and the long stroke crank will allow for good displacement. remember rpm=faster wear on the motor. there is no need to destroke the motor to rev high, as long as you upgrade the necessary components(Rods, rod bolts, bearings, maybe a resleeve, and valvetrain) it will be fine. for example the formula atlantic/toyota 4age engine can rev to 11000rpm in built form, but has a r/s of 1.58; which is the same as the B18c.

b16 = b16 The only real differences are the compression and cam profiles. Why would you put those into a b20 anyways?

no sir, you are wrong.

the B16A and B17A engines have a seperate block than all other DOHC B series engines, including the B16B. The deck heights themselves are different, thus, the b16b has a taller deck than the b16a, which means that it needs longer rods/taller pistons to achieve the same stroke.

Should i need to resleeve it??!


Yes, definatly. It would only be a matter of time before the added compression from your 12:1 pistons blow out the walls.

Ok i didnt get a chance to read this whole thing of nine pages so dont hate on me if this question already came up, but arent the B20's we put in 1997+ which means the transmissions are hydrolic, cuz i thought it was cable transmissions for the older cars and hydrolic for the newer cars, so wouldnt an integra ls(94+)tranny fit witout any special kit?

b16 mounts and linkage yes can be used note:he did say that ANY b series mounts/linkage can be used.
cost, come on even I can estimate the cost, no because I'm too lazy too look up prices i would say off the top of my head $2500 with cost of motor, cable tranny, mounts, linkage, ecu, misc parts, and replacing all things you should replace when swapping(belts, fluids, gaskets, new hoses, etc.).

Interesting idea Kris to do this thread.

I wanted to do this swap in a car other than a fourth gen. but they absolutely cannot pass ref. so decided against it, plus its difficult I hear.
Not any more difficult than a B16 swap.

Ok i didnt get a chance to read this whole thing of nine pages so dont hate on me if this question already came up, but arent the B20's we put in 1997+ which means the transmissions are hydrolic, cuz i thought it was cable transmissions for the older cars and hydrolic for the newer cars, so wouldnt an integra ls(94+)tranny fit witout any special kit?
Any B series transmission fits. Hydro, cable, it does not matter.

it can share b series parts but that does not make it a bored out b16... there is more to it than that. i found an excellent article talking about how the b20 came about and talking about its cyl sleeves and stuff I will have to find that again

terribly sorry for the extremely long delay everyone. kris brought it to my attention that I completely forgot about this. this is the webpage that i was speaking of so long ago.

http://www.big-boards.com/kw/cars/members/

terribly sorry for the extremely long delay everyone. kris brought it to my attention that I completely forgot about this. this is the webpage that i was speaking of so long ago.

http://www.big-boards.com/kw/cars/members/



:lol2: I can tell where you just came from.

Here is the link:

http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html

damn, 10 pages of myths? lol. i didnt read them, but it says ive posted in here before. hm.

I have a JDM B20B with an JDM S1 Tranny in my 91 CRX. I was just wondering if I will be able to run 13's. The B20B looks exactly like the B20Z with the air box chamber on top of the intake manifold and the knock sensor. So I'm estimating it has around 146 hp and 133 torque and the higher compression pistons. Most people say they've ran 14's with their USDM B20B (126 hp and 133 torque) with an LS Tranny. I also might get a high performance clutch, but just with my short geared tranny and JDM B20B what do you think I'll be running?

Must resist urge to put money in Beater Civic Si... *ugh* :icon16:
agree, except, dx hatch

I have a JDM B20B with an JDM S1 Tranny in my 91 CRX. I was just wondering if I will be able to run 13's. The B20B looks exactly like the B20Z with the air box chamber on top of the intake manifold and the knock sensor. So I'm estimating it has around 146 hp and 133 torque and the higher compression pistons. Most people say they've ran 14's with their USDM B20B (126 hp and 133 torque) with an LS Tranny. I also might get a high performance clutch, but just with my short geared tranny and JDM B20B what do you think I'll be running?

yes, intake/header/exhaust and cams with that tranny will bring you into the high 13's....13.9 etc. I run a 14.2 without the cams....with the low compression B20.

Shit...EG's run mid to low 14's with this motor with just I/H/E! (non vtec) (check honda-tech to verify search for B20 1/4 times)

By having a 10 lb flywheel and high performance clutch will it make a difference than the stock flywheel and clutch? If so how much of a difference will it be and is it noticeable?

By having a 10 lb flywheel and high performance clutch will it make a difference than the stock flywheel and clutch? If so how much of a difference will it be and is it noticeable?
A lighter flywheel will allow you to 1- rev quicker, and 2- lighten the mass of your rotating assembly, allowing you to put that freed up power to use.

i want a b20 so bad...

Will I be happy with a B16 Tranny b/c I heard that it's not a good idea for the B20B......but I want the most acceleration.......Will I be able to see that much of a difference since I have a B16 Tranny than if i had a long geared tranny?

Bump...

I have a few questions, but it's 2:30am and after reading these 10 pages, I need some sleep.
I'll post them up tomorrow..

AWESOME THREAD ++++ 5 ++++

Will I be happy with a B16 Tranny b/c I heard that it's not a good idea for the B20B......but I want the most acceleration.......Will I be able to see that much of a difference since I have a B16 Tranny than if i had a long geared tranny?
Whoever told you that needs some help.

The b16 trans, works awsome with the B20 motors.

Whoever told you that needs some help.

The b16 trans, works awsome with the B20 motors.

:thumbsup:
i second that!
Btw, if you get a jdm b20b that was made after 97, it's equivalent to a usdm b20z. There were never any b20z's in japan only b20b's. You have to look at the year casting on the left hand side of the head to see what year motor it is. Of course, it will also have a knock sensor if it is the 9.6:1 compression motor. That motor is beautiful, it is underrated it's actually near 160 HP.

Alright here I go..

I plan on doing the B20 swap this July while I'm at Ami's !!
Here's what my plans are.
- Ami's Welder is going to make the mounts, linkage, and wire harness
- B16 tranny
- B16 head will get installed this upcoming winter.
- Hondata S200 (will install with head swap)

Now my major question is, should i think about re sleeving the block before I swap it in ? Do I even need a resleeve ??
I plan on running a Mildly built CRVTEC, I'd like to do pistons, however this involves a resleeve doesnt it ? Would I be better off just having the OEM ones cleaned up ?

What would be the best option for the head?
I've heard the B16 allows more airflow, if I plan to do cams in the future will the unsleeved block take the challenge ?

Anyways, I'm sure I'll think of more, as the night progresses.

you don't have to resleeve the block...but that is ALWAYS good for safe insurance. You can rev the crvtec w/ out worry to 7k daily. Many people take it to 8k as well. The truth is, not all motors are created equal. It's been proven that not all B20 motors are equal as well. Some B20's are more prone to have the sleeves crack then others. There's no way to tell. Adding a vtec head to the b20 block doesn't make it any less reliable if done right. the b18/b20 rods and rod bolts are weak and prone to break if reved beyond 7k.
Some people don't have trouble with it at all and have run it past 8k for years without aftermarket pistons or rods, etc.
But, it will hold up for sure if you don't rev it past 7k too much without the rebuild...after that, it's all up to you to find out what kind of motor you have...there's just no way to tell.

btw, if your car is multi point already, you can just use your stock harness to run the motor. also, you will need a 90-91 integra ecu and distributor to run it unless youre converting to obd1. if you have the b20b with the tall intake manifold, you will need to switch it to a 90-01 integra manifold. But, the 94+ manifolds are better...just plug the map sensor into the one on the throttle body instead if you use this manifold...same thing.
As for the exhaust manifold, a 90-93 integra manifodl bolts right up to the stock crx exhaust piping...but is horrible for performance. You're goint to want to get a 4-1 header or at least a 4-2-1 and make sure it has the 2.5 inch outlet. You'll notice great gains if you make your whole exhaust 2.5 inches including the catalytic converter, mandrel bent exhaust piping and muffler. Keep it all the same size, don't mix and match sizes.

why would you make mounts and a linkage?
just order the mounts from azracemachine.com and the linkage as well.
don't risk having welded mounts brake on you. Also the linkage is very tricky to make because you have to use half of the civic/crx one and half of a 90-93 integra one and measure it out PERFECTLY...pain in the arse. Just buy the aftermarket stuff. The mounts are 280 and the linkage is 140.

What about bearings? Aftermarket (ACL) okay, or should I use OE Honda?

What about bearings? Aftermarket (ACL) okay, or should I use OE Honda?
wheel bearings?

oops my bad...lol acl...rod bearings?
i'd say oem.

YA. B20 wheel bearings. :confused:

HAHA.. Anyway, I'm going to be rebuilding my B20B for the VTEC head and I want it to last so I want to do it right.

ya my bad.
Wow, i must have been gone for a long time...
since when did you have a B20?
It's not in the car is it...you still have the b16 right?

is your b20b the jdm one? Is it the high comp or low comp motor? (does it have a knock sensor)

Its the USDM B20B, I think B4?

Yes, I still have the B16 in my car, I just picked up a treat for it. ;)
Can't beat $100 for a CRV block!!

I’m sorry, but this is kind of off the subject, but I need some help bad. You see I have a b20b in a 91 CRX, but I don't know what wiring harness and distributor I should use. I know that the b20b is a obd2 engine, but I heard that instead of getting a obd2 wiring harness and distributor. I should get a obd1 wiring harness and distributor which would match my car. So should I stick with obd2 and just use a conversion harness or should I use the obd1 wiring harness with distributor? Oh yeah, how can a obd1 distributor and wiring harness work with a obd2 engine? Thanks a lot

and the dead walk again

Does any body in here know what wiring harness and distributor I should use with a B20B going into a 91 CRX?

ok so whats the difference between a b20 block compared to a bored out b18 block. i would assume if there are any differences that the would be minimal right?

lol.....no crx is obd1 sorry hurt your fealings....they make a kit at rywire.com ...and dont ever go obd2....obd1 is what want...ask bamba, he done all this i still collecting my parts for swap taking time sense i doing lots of body work on my rex

btw, if your car is multi point already, you can just use your stock harness to run the motor. also, you will need a 90-91 integra ecu and distributor to run it unless youre converting to obd1. if you have the b20b with the tall intake manifold, you will need to switch it to a 90-01 integra manifold. But, the 94+ manifolds are better...just plug the map sensor into the one on the throttle body instead if you use this manifold...same thing.
As for the exhaust manifold, a 90-93 integra manifodl bolts right up to the stock crx exhaust piping...but is horrible for performance. You're goint to want to get a 4-1 header or at least a 4-2-1 and make sure it has the 2.5 inch outlet. You'll notice great gains if you make your whole exhaust 2.5 inches including the catalytic converter, mandrel bent exhaust piping and muffler. Keep it all the same size, don't mix and match sizes.

why would you make mounts and a linkage?
just order the mounts from azracemachine.com and the linkage as well.
don't risk having welded mounts brake on you. Also the linkage is very tricky to make because you have to use half of the civic/crx one and half of a 90-93 integra one and measure it out PERFECTLY...pain in the arse. Just buy the aftermarket stuff. The mounts are 280 and the linkage is 140.

So how do I modify my stock CRX SI harness so that it fits the B20B? By taking the plugs from a obd1 or obd2 harness and rewire it to the harness so that it plugs up on certain plugs?

RYWIRE.COM......it will telly uo how to rewire for obd1 and they sell the kit for 200 bucks with everything you need to convert from obd-0 to obd-1...being that you dont know what your doing i sugest get that setup from...i know what i doing and i even got the kit make it easier on myself...

I’m sorry, but this is kind of off the subject, but I need some help bad. You see I have a b20b in a 91 CRX, but I don't know what wiring harness and distributor I should use. I know that the b20b is a obd2 engine, but I heard that instead of getting a obd2 wiring harness and distributor. I should get a obd1 wiring harness and distributor which would match my car. So should I stick with obd2 and just use a conversion harness or should I use the obd1 wiring harness with distributor? Oh yeah, how can a obd1 distributor and wiring harness work with a obd2 engine? Thanks a lot

for ease of installation, just use a 90-91 integra ecu (code: PR4) and a 90-91 integra distributor (code: TD-23U). Doing that will allow you to run a B20 without doing any wiring. Unless, of course your car is a dx and has to be wired to mpfi first. Now, if you don't know what mpfi is, then i suggest you forget the B20 swap right now and figure out what that is first.

So how do I modify my stock CRX SI harness so that it fits the B20B? By taking the plugs from a obd1 or obd2 harness and rewire it to the harness so that it plugs up on certain plugs?

you can either use 90-91 integra injectors, or cut off any 92+ honda/acura (any model) injector plugs and solder them onto your stock si harness.
BTW, your stock si harness will completely bolt up to a B20 provided that you use the distributor and ecu from a 90-91 integra.
The only plug that i can think of that doesn't match up is the fan relay plug on the back of the block. On the newer motors it is on the thermostat...this is an easy fix. Just lengthen the wires and switch it to the different shaped plug.
Be sure to do this, or else your ecu will never be able to tell when to turn your fan on...bad idea.

you can either use 90-91 integra injectors, or cut off any 92+ honda/acura (any model) injector plugs and solder them onto your stock si harness.
BTW, your stock si harness will completely bolt up to a B20 provided that you use the distributor and ecu from a 90-91 integra.
The only plug that i can think of that doesn't match up is the fan relay plug on the back of the block. On the newer motors it is on the thermostat...this is an easy fix. Just lengthen the wires and switch it to the different shaped plug.
Be sure to do this, or else your ecu will never be able to tell when to turn your fan on...bad idea.

I know that the B18B1 intake manifold is better than the B18A1, but is it better than the JDM B20B (low rise like the LS) intake manifold? At first I heard it wasn't, but then I heard it was. I'm not sure because the B20B manifold has a bigger throttle body and ports. So how could you explain the LS manifold being better than this?

so you take the bottom end of a b20 and put a vtec head or something?

Let's get technical for a second here. VTEC is controlled by a few things, but oil pressure is one.

My question is, with a B20 VTEC, can you use the B20 oil pump, or do you need to use a B18C oil pump for the correct pressure/volume (are they the same?)?

JOHN

Let's get technical for a second here. VTEC is controlled by a few things, but oil pressure is one.

My question is, with a B20 VTEC, can you use the B20 oil pump, or do you need to use a B18C oil pump for the correct pressure/volume (are they the same?)?

JOHN

I'm not sure if you could use the B20 oil pump with a CRVTEC set up, but I would use the B18C oil pump just to be on the safe side

2 of my firnds that have b20vtec motors in their car have not needed to change their oil pump, since the JDM motors they got had Vtec Oil pumps on it already... Weird I know... but if you get a USDM one just pickup a OBD2 P72 Vtec Oil pump, you can pick those up for 100$ new off ebay.

Quick question, I've got a b20b with a b16a2 head and every tank im not getting that many kms. Im averaging about 320-400kms MAX. Is this normal? header and intake for mods but everything else stock. Anyone have a set up similar to mine that want to tell me how much they gettin??!

i have a 87 crx witha b16 swap and lost #3 cylinder somehow....

and have a chance to get my friends B20 from his prelude
it should drop right in (technically) right

Yeah, it should.

wow ya'll really brought this back from the dead.
yeah it should drop right in.
correct me if im wrong, but isn't the only difference between a b20 and the
b18, the bore size?
so you really shouldn't have clearance problems. then you could use ur b16 head and go b20/vtec.
wow that would be a huge sleeper.

definatly b20 vtec that would pretty nice

Come on people :disappoin ...The b20 from an older prelude is completely different from the b20 of a crv, it's not like the other b-series engines. You can't swap parts over from your b16 (like the head), it doesn't work like that. If you want to keep the same mounts, transmission, etc; then you'll need a different B-series (another b16a, a b18c, a b18a/b, or a crv b20).

Yes, the only major difference between the B18b and the crv B20 is the bore (81mm to 84mm), obviously the pistons are different and most of the heads are a little different as well (there are a few variations).

wow ya'll really brought this back from the dead.
yeah it should drop right in.
correct me if im wrong, but isn't the only difference between a b20 and the
b18, the bore size?
so you really shouldn't have clearance problems. then you could use ur b16 head and go b20/vtec.
wow that would be a huge sleeper.

Do NOT answer a question if you are not <b><u>100%</u></b> sure you know the correct answer. This is how misinformation and retarded honda owners come to be.

B20B/Z is the ONLY B20 you can put a vtec head on and put in your vehicle.

the b20 out of the crv's. yeah i know. the bore size is 84 mil and you can not use the b20 out of the old prelude, because it leans back.
and i ain't the only one who answered!
sorry i didn't correct myself. but i since then found more information on the frankenstein.

brought back from the dead once again....member when I did my b20 project a few years ago...back then took forever cause I had a girlfriend that wanting everything and was hard funding parts for my car ;-)