hi. Ive got a F50 and a 360 spider kit for a long time now and I think I'm gonna start on the 360 spider.. the reason I'm gonna do the spider is that I saw a real 360 spider just this past summer parked on the street. it was absolutely amazing looking.. with that engine showing through from under the rear hatch.

I wanna do a good job so I'll need you all to help me along..

first off.. where can I get a good image hosting service??? my isp only provide 10meg of space and I'll be posting lots of pictures... :)

phil
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437cover.jpg

You can use: AF Picture Server (http://files.automotiveforums.com) for free with your account.

So what color is this going to be?

sounds cool :naughty: , what rims you are going to put?

You can use: AF Picture Server (http://files.automotiveforums.com) for free with your account.

So what color is this going to be?

exactly what I was thinking. I was thinking silver, but Im not sure which silver. I need a silver matallic color with a blue undertone, so Im thinking of using testors' silver blue metallic. but if I do that I'll probably need a primer coat+base silver coat(needed because silver blue metallic is tranlucent)+color coat+tamiya clear lacquer coat and this is gonna be REAL MESSY!!!!!!!!!

sounds cool :naughty: , what rims you are going to put?

think Im gonna go all stock. I dont wanna take too long with this thing.. :grinno:

just wanna let you people know I will be building the 360 spider over the thanksgiving holiday so stay tuned.. I'll be doing the exterior silver blue metallic and interior black.. all stock. I will be posting the blow-by-blow.. so stay tuned!!!! :smile:

ok, people, seems that this is not gonna be a one weekend job. but let me get started. what should I post??? I think instead of posting a lot of pics bits and pieces I would rather post stuff in the spirit of technique sharing. so here goes:

here are some of my tools:

I spray everything when I can so I got myself a very cheap compressor. its a Silentaire Scorpion MB 1000. this is a weak compressor and I need to water down my paint quite a bit to get best result. the upside is that because the spray is weak.. there is little over spray.

the airbrush is a Iwata HP-B.. yeah I spent a pretty penny on that airbrush.

my favorite lacquer clean is E-Z lacquer thinner.. this thing smells the least offensive. great for cleaning everything. the scrap piece of door has the color modal master silver blue metallic.. which would be the color of the car.

for glues I use the testors glue pen. no tube glue no way!!! and for something quicker I use tenax plastic welder.. this one of those very quick set glues that can bond ABS plastic in 10sec. but there are many other brands that do the same.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic2.jpg

ok.. lets get started.. like I said I mask and spray whenever I can.. so let me offer a couple examples:

this is the engine when that top cylinder on black. I hand painted the cylinder and the paint got onto the body a little bit, so I mask the cylinder and touched up the engine block.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic6.jpg

and this is how it turned out:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic7.jpg

now this is a little messy.. I painted the chassis semi-gloss black (model master black+flat black) and masked around the A-arm before I spray it with aluminum model master metalizer.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic9.jpg

here is the "after" pic, nice and clean huh???

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic5.jpg

here's the same idea, I painted the side panels flat back and masked them out and painted the frame silver.. which part I decide to paint and mask first depends on which parts are easier to mask out.

btw, NEVER mask over model master metalizer cus while they look beautiful.. they dont stick too well.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic4.jpg

now, on to the body!!! the body will be painted silver blue metallic. it takes four paint layers. the bottom layer is tamiya white primer. the second layer is model master silver sprayed with an airbrush. this is needed because the silver blue metallic is semi-translucent. the third layer will be the color, and the final layer will be tamiya clear lacquer.

as usual I got rid of the mold lines before any painting began. this is after the silver undercoat:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic8-med.jpg

stay tuned!!! :)

great job... good job masking....seems very helpful

the third layer will be the color, and the final layer will be tamiya clear lacquer.

Are you planning to spray Tamiya TS clear lacquer from the can, or Tamiya X-13 acrylic from the bottle? If you spray lacquer over Model Master enamels you probably have a problem.

Great progress.Can't wait to see more.:bigthumb:

Are you planning to spray Tamiya TS clear lacquer from the can, or Tamiya X-13 acrylic from the bottle? If you spray lacquer over Model Master enamels you probably have a problem.

probably from the can. it would take too long using the airbrush and the longer you spray, the more likely dusts and dirts would get sprayed onto the surface.

also, I tested praying ts-13 on other model master enamel and I had no problem. of course I will test it again on the color I will us.

this looks good already. and you've just started!

Looks real good, perfect ferrari color, keep up the good work.

nice color, and good job.

ok, people, next steps, the brakes!!!!

the brake parts are very very nice - not only do they have the drill holes, but they have the spiraling ventilation grooves as well - though you can hardly see it.

so how to do justice to these brakes??? here's what I do:

first, give it a coat of silver enamel, after that brush on a coat of tamiya flat black:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic11.jpg

after the flat back "kinda" dries, which takes about a couple minutes, I wipe the color of with a paper towel dampened with with 91% isopropyl alcohol, take would remove the black on the surface of the disc but leave the color in the holes.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic12.jpg

finally I just hand paint the hub and the caliper... and its BEAUTIFUL!!!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic13.jpg

nice how to, you should put that in the Tutorial section.

nice how to, you should put that in the Tutorial section.

but its gonna be like this the entire thread!!! I think the whole idea of posting an in-progress project is so that you can share your building experience, instead of just putting up a bunch of snapshots for other people to "admire". I see a lot of other wonderfully beautiful projects in this forum and I think by setting some sort of example other people might do the same and show how they got their beautiful results.

It was just a suggestion, anyway, I'm using this method with thinned flat black to see if it works as good as regular flat, unthinned.

It was just a suggestion, anyway, I'm using this method with thinned flat black to see if it works as good as regular flat, unthinned.

it just might work better cus you would be able to get as much paint in the holes with less paint on the surface to remove..

just remember not to use too much alcohol on the towel or you would desolve the soak up all the paint from the holes.

also, do you notice that it only works if the color coat is enamel or lacquer, right??? (or the alcohol would desolve the color coat)

ok, people, I MESSED UP!!!

I sprayed a wheel well with water droplets still on it (after I washed the parts but before they dried thoroughly), I ended up with bubble beneath the paint. so I needed to remove the paint. and what do I use??? something Ive used for years -

Polly-S EASY LIFT-OFF

it removes DRIED TESTORS/MODEL MASTER ENAMELS. and it is safe on plastic. just dont use it too many times on the same piece or plastic or else the plastic would get brittle and break easily.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic14.jpg

That color on that Ferrari looks fantastic! Great progress thread also.

AARRGGHHH!!!!!!

that's NOT the final color.. its the color of the BASE COAT.. which will be covered with SILVER BLUE METALLIC!!! I will spray that next weekend cus I need to do it outdoor during the day and I do have to work mon-fri.

AARRGGHHH!!!!!!

that's NOT the final color.. its the color of the BASE COAT.. which will be covered with SILVER BLUE METALLIC!!! I will spray that next weekend cus I need to do it outdoor during the day and I do have to work mon-fri.
Calm down! I'm aware of what the final color will be. I still think the basecoat looks fantastic.

good work so far pflau! the break idea is good, what i thought you did from looking at the pics was paint it silver that put flat black over, then paint the steel or silver color you chose again over the top carefully so as not to let it drip in the wholes, similarly to what i do for my springs on cars! Good work!:iceslolan

It seems like a very nice project. I'm planning on building that kit too one of these days, and this "how-to" is going to come very, very handy..For that, I thank you in advance :D
(and keep up with the great job..)

DARN.. SETBACK!!!!!!

washed a part down the sink accidentally.. always make sure the stopper is down while working above the sink!!!

does anybody have a spare B4 part (the shock absorber/spring)?????????????

guess I'll need to call tamiya tomorrow!!!

I'll show you people how to do this tomorrow.. :tongue:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic15.jpg

OK, just called tamiya and got the part ordered.. $4.50 for the B tree and about $4 for shipping.. not too bad now I got some spare parts to play with.

talk to you people tonite!!!

Where are those pics you promised ? :D

Where are those pics you promised ? :D

Yeah ?? :naughty:

OK... sorry for the delay.. I had to work late last night..

anyway.. here's how I do it.. but I'll probably strip them and do them over as I noticed that some of the silver was coming off because of too much handling.. I think I'm gonna coat the silver with metalizer sealer.

the whole idea is that the under coat is enamel.. something that is not affected by alcohol. I paint on the tamiya X-18 semi-gloss black, and than "strip" the black from between the springs. here are the tools:

a superfine microbrush applicator that I cut off most of the brush head to get a very small point
a very fine brush - a 20/0 with a flat head

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic16-med.jpg

after I paint the spring, I dip the microbrush in 91% isopropyl alcohol ($1.00 from your local drug store) and wet the paint between the spring.. I would wet it and let the paint melt and soak it up until almost all of the paint is gone.. now this takes patience.. and you cant get the brush too wet because it would melt the paint on the spring - not what you want. so you wet the brush, soak up the paint, and rinse the brush in alcohol (dont dip the brush in the bottle of alcohol, put the alcohol in a small bottle cap and use it from there) and repeat.. make sure you apply pressure between the spring and not against the spring.. you try not to take the paint off the spring.

when you can see the color of the shock absorber you can switch to the 20/0 brush. do the same thing with the brush but again make sure not to get it too wet.. after you rinse the brush drag the brush on a piece of paper to soak up the excess alcohol, and "map up" the traces of paint from the space between the spring. the reason you didnt use the brush from the get go is because you need pressure to remove the paint.. which you cannot do with the brush because the 20/0 brush is not stiff like the microbrush.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic17.jpg

now this is the result.. the reason this is half black is because half of the absorber IS black per painting instruction.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic18.jpg

yes the result is not perfect.. but YOU CANNOT SEE it from normal distnace and hey there are always dirts between the spring and the shock absorber right???

I prefer this method over the painting over the spring method because this emphasize the spring and really give it a beefy appearance. :iceslolan

phil

I prefer this method over the painting over the spring method because this emphasize the spring and really give it a beefy appearance. :iceslolan

phil

I use another method (not mine but learnt here from another member of this forum !) :
- cut a strip of tamyia masking tape (on a cutting pad) : the width must be the distance between two "spring revolutions" (excuse me for bad english)
- paint the silver
- apply the masking tape between the spring (it's very easy to do)
- then paint the black
- when half-dry : remove the masking tape

I like this technique because it gives very good results and is very easy and fast to do.

oh, yeah I read about that method!!! in fact I cut the masking tape and when I was about to put it on.. I decided not to use it because of couple things.

1. the end of the string toward either side would need to be touch up anyway because the masking tape doesn't come to a point.

2. there is a chunk sticking out from the middle of the spring and the masking tape would go right over that and leave a gap between the tape and the shock absorber and paint would seep in so that area would need touching up.

3. the silver paint I use (testors) doesn't stick too well.. in fact if anybody know a silver paint that sticks well please let me know.. so if I really press the tape hard so there is no paint seeping underneath.. the tape would lift the paint right off. if I dont there would be paint seeping underneath so I would need to touch up again..

so after thinking about all the touching up I would have to do anyway I just did it with a brush from the get go..

Have you ever tried Alcad 2? Those really are the best metallic paints I've used. They're maskable within 10 minutes of spraying.

Cheers

Farrokh

Yes I have heard of alcad2 and I have seen it in my local hobby shop. the problem is that it nees a black undercoat.. and I decided that anything that builds up the coating thickness is unacceptable for me.

I just got some geninue tamiya masking tape and gave that tape around the spring thing a try.. and it seemed to have work.. except I took off the tape too early and removed too much paint from the side of the spring. I'll give it another try and I'll post what I find..

this is gonna be great, i cant wait to see the finished product

ok.. NO MORE TESTORS SPRAYS!!!! they are such HITS AND MISSES!!!

I got the silver blue metallic in a spray can.. thinking that I just might want to use a spray can instead of using an airbrush.. I tried it on the piece of scrap I have and look at what happened:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic19.jpg

look at the pits and the hazy finish!!! and dont tell me maybe its the coat of paint underneath being incompitable cus the paint underneath is model master silver blue metallic thinned with model master airbrush thinner sprayed with an airbrush.

Ive had bad experiences with testors spray before maybe this can is old cus I got it from a shop that didnt seem to sell too many of these but is there is no expiration date and some of my other really old testors sprays are still good so testors quality control really sux.

seems I'll chuck this can and just have to airbrush the color coat.

ok, I gave that tape around the spring method another try. I got the tamiya masking tape and of course needed to cut the tape.. this is how I did it:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic24.jpg

I cut the tape on a mirror using an x-acto knife. the knife of course cannot scratch the mirror... PERFECT!

now for the shock absorber.. this time I sprayed the whole thing silver, then overcoat with model master metalizer sealer, and wraped the tamiya around it

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic23.jpg

I painted tamiya x-18 over it, waited for it to dry, and removed the tape.. I had to do a little touching up.. and this is the result.. NOT BAD!!!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic22.jpg

ok, people, I NEED YOUR HELP!!!

Im doing the doors. I painted the whole thing semi-gloss black which is one part testors gloss + one part testors flat. I then masked out the silver panel and painted that tamiya x-32 titanium silver per instruction. now that freaking tamiya paint is VERY lumpy.. I dont know why.. maybe it's sat on the shelf for too long at the dealers. I had to redo it couple time until I learn to skim the top when I get the paint into the airbrush. that is, when I stired the paint I did not stir anything up from the bottom of the jar so the lumps stayed stuck at the bottom.. and when I sprayed it I used a very light spray and just built and built.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic20.jpg

after I removed the tape I sprayed model master metalizer sealer over it.. now the thing about model master metalizer is that YOU CAN CONTROL THE GLOSS.. if you want a glossier finish, you spray a little heavier, if you want a matt finish, spray drier. anyway. it turned out pretty good. the reason I use a sealer over the tamiya acrylic is that when I paint and speaker grill and screw up.. I can just wash the paint off with fantastic cleaner (a household cleaner for you not in the US) and not take the titanium silver off.

this picture has two doors.. the right one is the one for the 360 modena.. it comes with the kit but is NOT used for the spider. the left one is for the spider. you see how the speaker grill on the right is perfectly painted and the one on the left is not painted??? well I tried several times and had to wash the paint off everytime.. WHY??? because the freaking grill on the left door is NOT RECESSED!!!! so I cannot use one of my favorite painting technique which is to really water the paint down and POOL the paint into a recessed area.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic25-med.jpg


so my question is.. HOW AM I GONNA PAINT THAT DARN SPEAKER GRILL???? if its a squre or a rectangle I wouldve said screw it and cut a piece of black decal. but here my painting skill aint so good that I can paint a perfect circle..

Any Suggestion Welcome!!! Thank You!

p.s. excuse the quality of the pictures.. Ive decided to use more compression for "demo" pix to save space and improve page load time.. cus Im posting so many pictures.

I'd say just use enamel paint, perhaps thin it just a bit (or just dab the brush in thinner and wipe some of it off before immersing the brush into paint) and brushpaint that speaker grille.

you can either scribe the circle to make it recessed, or cut masking tape with something circular of the same size (well, pen cap, button on your shirt, anything circular of that size)

The best way one can do it is to do with a PE template with patterns
that way you can either scribe with the template or cut masking tape with the template, take my word that this template will not only help with just this model build-up, but also more models in the future.

you can either scribe the circle to make it recessed, or cut masking tape with something circular of the same size (well, pen cap, button on your shirt, anything circular of that size)

The best way one can do it is to do with a PE template with patterns
that way you can either scribe with the template or cut masking tape with the template, take my word that this template will not only help with just this model build-up, but also more models in the future.

but on the right door the WHOLE AREA is recessed, not just the perimeter of the circle.

by pe template do you mean the type of plastic template that drafting people use?? I used to have one of those.. got like 20 circles on the template.. but I lost the template.. I was actually thinking using such a template to cut a circle from a decal sheet and call it a day.

Plastic is doable, but since drafting people use the template to draw stuff, while we use it to cut stuff, the plastic might not be too durable, mine is photoetched, so basicially it is safe from knife.

as I said, you can either use the template to cut some masking tape, use the cut masking to help you paint the area, or use the template and a scriber (a needle will do too) to scribe the circle

just my 2 cents, I wouldnt use the template to cut the decal paper to get a job like this done.


Thanks for the tip, I will watch out for that when I move on to my 360 spyder.

just a quick tip.. a great way to hold small part for painting is to use scotch heavy duty outdoor mounting tape on a chinese/japanese takeout chopstick.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic26.jpg

quick update.. got myself a plastic drafting template.. used that to cut a hole from a masking tape and used the masking tape to mask around the speaker grill..

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic27.jpg

sprayed on some tamiya XF-1 and here's the result... BEAUTIFUL!!! OUCH!!!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic28.jpg

that's so hot... more updates plz!@!!

Awesome progress! I especially like the tips! :D

Awesome progress! I especially like the tips! :D
The fact that your providing us all with these wonderful tips is great, the speakers look very nicely done.

wow, those door panels look great, i love the clean lines and color combo!

How did I miss this thread for so long? :rolleyes:
Excellent work so far pflau, a great 360 is on the way.

:iagree: Very Good!!!

thank you thank you I really appreciate all the appreciations.. Im progressing slowly but surely because I wanna make sure to do everything right. but the holidays are coming up so I'll have lots of time set aside for this project. rest assured that I wont show you anything good... unless I also show to how to do it!!!!! :iceslolan

Fuckin a! Your technique make me envious! :eek:

Your diligence and innovation are exactly what I love to see in this forum!! :sunglasse:

ok, Im making slow but steady progress.. kinda have to work this weekend but I'll be on vacation starting next week so I'll be able to spend more time on this project..

for now I was just experimenting with my new polishing technique on a piece of scrap.. just to give you a sneak preview of what's to come :iceslolan

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic29.jpg

WOW!!! This kit looks so awesome so far. Great work on the interior door panels, and the shocks. Keep us posted. I can't wait to see it done.

shiney!

yes its very very shiny.. and the DEPTH of the shine is amazing. by "new polishing technique" I meant new polishing material. Im experimenting using material used by guitar luthiers for polishing nitrocellulose lacquer. I'll give more details..

Bring on those tips!
Never thought of using a drafting template!
can't wait to see the finished project. Don't let anything put you off!

well, another quick update.. these are the brake/wheels all assembled.. there are two things worth pointing out:

1) you cant see the rotors behind the wheels so you dont have to paint them!!

2) watch for the orientation of the FERRARI logos on the calipers!!! two of them are "upside down".. the key is that when the brakes are on the car, the logos are all vertical and they are oriented in such a way that the letter "F" always points toward the sky

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic31-med.jpg

tooo small for my eyes

Thanks for the tip... I had no idea about the Ferrari "F" facing up on the rotors. good tid bit of info for future projects!

yet another quick update. I dont have any picture this time because its just a tip. I applied the ferrari embalm decals to the wheels and here's what I found:

1) there are holes in the middle of the wheels.. sometimes there are flash around the hole.. make sure there arent any cus they would interfere with the decal.

2) the clear film around the decal make it bigger than the center cap so use a super strength decal setting solution. I use super sol by super scale international. after a decal is dry to touch you might wanna press the decal down with the tip of you pinky to make sure the decal sticks all the way and there is no gap around the edge.

just a quick update.. I'm building all the subcomponents at the same time and I try not to post anything until a component is done(because I might screw up and decide to strip the paint and do it over again) and that's why there's been no post for awhile.

anyway.. I'm making excellent progress except for the body which I have not gotten around to spray because the weather's been really cold.

just feel like posting a picture of some of the stuff I'm working on..:)

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic30-med.jpg

aarrgghhh!!! I knew it I knew it I knew it.. shouldnt have posted.. I just stripped off all the paint to the airbox because I was not happy with the finish.. it kept chipping and wouldnt stick.. seems some testors flat paints dont stick too well.. but I've found a way to fix it and I'll post the blow-by-blow when the whole component is finished..

the pics dont work?!?!

Fantastic work so far pflau! The tips are outstanding and the modeling is as good!

Chris

the pics dont work?!?!

no there is no pic.. I am redoing the airbox because it's the most prominent component when you look through the rear deck so I have to get it PERFECT!!!!! :iceslolan

no there is no pic.. I am redoing the airbox because it's the most prominent component when you look through the rear deck so I have to get it PERFECT!!!!! :iceslolan
That's what I hate about building a model. Once you get so far into detail with it, there's no turning back! It all has to be absolutely perfect!

Darn!!!! another setback!!!

just learned from experience that 91% isopropyl alcohol desolves decal ink !!!

so I guess I will have to call tamiya monday to order an extra decal sheet.. and I'll make sure to order an extra set of metal transfer so I can get a ferrari emblam for the testarossa that I'm working on..:)

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/111437testarossa_engine-med.jpg

that sucks! Oh well, we live and learn.

finally an update!! the interior minus the dash is just about done. now let me go over step by step how I did the interior.

the interior is all about mask and paint. the center console is painted tamiya X-32 per instruction. however, the paint as I said in an earlier post is really lumpy. I got fed up and I filtered the paint through a filter funnel I got from a darkroom supply store.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic32.jpg
after I did that when I sprayed the paint it came out much smoother.

I masked out the center console and sprayed it. now there are three areas in the center contole that need attention. the "shift gate", which is supposed to be bright chrome. same deal. I masked out the gate and spray tamiya TS-30 silver leaf.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic33.jpg
and the result is beautiful! the second area is the "coin box" in the middle. I did the same thing - mask and spray. now I need to deal with the third area which is that mini control panel right behind the shift gate. now that thing is in a recessed area. no problem, mask and paint again. just use a toothpick to make sure the tamiya masking tape is sited where it should:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic34.jpg
there is another thing behind the coin box - the console storage area nex to the hand brake. the instruction is wrong as that thing is not black!!! so I left it unpainted.

I placed the decal on the coin box and the result as you can see in the picture speaks for itself.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic35-med.jpg
now you might be asking.. what's the deal with that foot plate in front of the passenger seat.. well that thing is a decal!! yes I sprayed tamiya silver-leaf on a piece of clear decal sheet, cut up and piece and just put there decal there. after a couple application of decal softening solution the decal sinks into the holes so the plate looks painted on.

now when you handle the decal make sure be gentle otherwise you would stretch the paint and leave marks.

one last thing.. about the door handle on the passenger side door (guess its there for the passenger to hold on to in case the driver decides to pull some g's :)) the bottom of the handle goes on top of the notch on the door control panel. not in front, not behind, but right on top. it's not made clear in the instruction but I checked some photos and that's what I found.

I glued the top of the handle only using gap-filling super glue. I didnt apply glue to the handle bottom because I knew I would mess up and leave glue mark all over.

just a couple of tips about using window masks.

apply the mask using a pair of tweezers. mask the other side of the window and spray. I use model master gloss black+flat black mixed.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic36.jpg

better put in several light coats because are you probably know about standard painting practice - you're supposed to spray a light coat first to _seal_ the edge of the tape so there would be no paint leaking underneath the tape.

also, make sure the paint is dark enough before you stop spraying and remove the mask - you dont want the black to look semi-translucent.

now how the hack to you remove the mask??? well use a toothpick and push one corner of the mask inward so it "bunches up", if you have a pair of sharp tweezers you can use that to pull the corner up and remove the mask. otherwise use the point of a blade very carefully catch the "bunch" of the mask and lift it up far enough so you can use the tweezers to remove the mask

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic37.jpg

this is how they turned out:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic38.jpg

the glass to the rear hatch fits snugly so I'm not even gonna glue it in place.

very cool effect, I'll try that definetly.

a few photos.. this thing is REALLY coming together.. :iceslolan

this is the undercarriage.. see I leave the cover below the engine clear.. no point woking so hard on the engine if you cant show it off!!

you can see the clean work on the suspension.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic39-med.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic40-med.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic41.jpg

Gorgeous pflau!

Chris

OH MY GOSH!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is such a nice Ferrari. :eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2:

people I'm really on a roll here.. like I said I was building all components at the same time and now they're rolling off the line one by one!!! here's the blow-by-blow of the engine!!!

the FIRST THING I must consider is that the engine shows beneath the rear hatch, so the appearance of the airbox is gonna make or break the model. the airbox must be beautiful !!!

before I do anything I filed away the mold lines from those two plates that stick out from the joints.

then it's going back to my mask-and-paint technique. here's what I did.

I first masked off the airbox and painted the hose semi-gloss black. why the hose first you ask?? well, that's because it is much easier to mask off the hose later to paint the airbox then to mask off the airbox to paint the hose!!! also, testors blacks are the most permanent color.. you can mask over it, use alcohol over it and it would not come off no matter what! so here I go..

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic42.jpg

I then mask off the hose and the joints and paint the body testors flat red. now there is something about testors flat red.. which is that this paint doesnt stick verywell because of the large pigments. to improve adhesion instead of using the testors/model master airbrush thinner I use lacquer thinner.. this would "etch" the plastic a little to improve adhesion and the spray is much more finer and smoother. I guess because lacquer thinner is lighter. I use two parts lacquer thinner to one part paint and the paint sprays like powder. very good.

the reason I had to use testors flat red is that there is no other flat red out there.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic43.jpg

finally I mask off the body to spray the joints.. I use model master steel metalizer. it gives a very nice finish. the clear plastic I use as masking agent is saran wrap!!! see this way I get as little masking tape as possible to stick to the paint to cut down on the chances the tape might lift the paint. see you have to consider all the steps at the beginning and have a plan.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic44.jpg

now what to do what that metal rings (what do you call that anyway??) that fix the hose to the airbox??? well.. bare-metal foil of course!!! man those two rings are a pain to put on.. the trick is to stick the middle of the foil on top and wrap the two ends around using that super-fine microbrush I mentioned earlier in the thread.

the one on right is already done.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic45.jpg

so with the rings stuck on.. I applied the metal transfers and painted the things that stick out from the left side of the joints semi-gloss black. no mold lines of course.

and here's how the finished engine looks (dont mind the gap in the airbox cus I have yet to actually glue it)

not too shabby, huh??? :bananasmi

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic46.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic47.jpg

here what I think are the air filters.. another example of bare-metal foil application!!! :iceslolan

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic48.jpg

Do a blackwash over the engine and it will look even more gorgeous! :iceslolan :iceslolan

do you have an idea why i can't see any of your pics? even when i try to load them in a seperate window? I really want to see your model :(

i think this thread should be put in the how to section. as i have refered to this more than my own instructions! i started my 360 modena last night at 7pm, stopped work at 4am. and am 75% completed because i have used your pics as colour refs and build order. even have a colour that should blow your minds.

congrats on a great great build

Yeah! Ferrari GO! Go ! GO! :smile:

G O D D A Y U M N !

I wish I had the talent you do! Very nice motor.

FORZA!

KUTGW!

I'm really looking forward to the completion of this one. :p

thank you for all the compliments.. I think by doing this I would encourage other builders to do the same.. anyway.. the engine compartment is almost done.. for now a quick tip:

to glue the shock absorbers I apply zap-a-gap to the attach point to the chassis only.. this way I dont have to worry about making a mess at the very visible suspension attach point. the way I do it.. with minimum mess.. is to put the shock absorber in place to check the fit. and I would lift the top off off to one side, apply glue to the gap using a toothpick, and push the absorber back in place.. no mess, cant miss!!!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic49.jpghttp://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic50.jpg

OMG are all your models this flawless? I cant wait to see this finished, it will be PERFECT

OMG are all your models this flawless? I cant wait to see this finished, it will be PERFECT

of course not!!! but this is definitely my BEST one by far and you know why??? because of all the stuff I learned and all the inspirations I got from this forum!!! this is my way of giving back. :)

well I redid the metal transfers.. I found that the transfers were too close to the center. so I used some pictures from www.ferrarina.com as reference and repositioned the metal transfers.

when apply the transfers the correct position is that the top of the transfer just goes over the top of the molded on blocks on the airbox.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic51.jpg

man I'm being so particular!!! but as I said this piece better be perfect because its the first thing you notice under the rear hatch!!!

ok, engine compartment done except for the air filter box!!!

a couple things worth noting..

1) the two "bottles" with the silver caps.. the pipes come out from either sides go to the lines that are on the right side of the joints from the airbox. right after you glue the bottles in place, you should put the airbox in place to check the fit and make sure the pipes connect. if the pipes do not connect the bottles are crooked and that should be fixed before the glue dries. also, that's when I discovered that the pipes on the right side of the joins should be painted semi-gloss black, which I did.

2) I attached the wheels to the brakes first now attaching the brakes to the rear suspension is a hassle. attaching the front wheels to the front brakes was the right decision as I didn't wannt put too much pressure to the front suspension joints. the rear suspensions however are fixed so that proved to be an incorrect decision. the reason is that attaching the hook to the brake arm was a hassle.

but there is no problem after all. I just positioned the brake so that the hook rested on the arm and glued the brake to the upper and lower a-arms. after waiting for the glue to set I use a toothpick to "snap" the hook on to the brake arm.

I know the frame/firewall joint looks messy with glue seeping out.. but that's ok cus you cant see it after the model is finish.. and I do need a strong joint there.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic52-med.jpg

damn. nice build dude. looks hot. btw, strong joints, use superglue, but don't be messy with it. meaning, don't glob it, or you'll have white lines by the dried glue.

damn. nice build dude. looks hot. btw, strong joints, use superglue, but don't be messy with it. meaning, don't glob it, or you'll have white lines by the dried glue.

Using superglue on plastic actually creates a 'weaker' joint. Using liquid cement will give a far more permanent bond.


Cheers

Farrokh

engine compartment done!!! :)

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic53.jpg

oh that is just soooooooooooo sexy!!!!!!

Yep,...... your build up is FANTASTICO!!!!
keep up the great work!!

So far so good. Cant wait to ee this one done. Everything looks so clean and perfect.

JeFF

wow you are pro!!!

http://members.verizon.net/~vze2rc5x/360spider/pic52.jpg[/QUOTE]

hmm i never realise that the engines had different placement for the spider version on the 360. for example the placement on the bottle caps. i have one on the fire wall and you have two next to each other. strange eh. lol.
gonna have to build me a spider version tho!

http://chris.nwwo.com/store/36021.jpg

WOW.. looking NICE!!

I'm still waiting for a break in the freezing weather so I can paint the body.. it's been very very cool up here in the northeast so I've been working on my Testarossa. thinking of putting up a another thread showing some of the tricks that I use..

i would just like to commend you on your oh-SO-beautiful work.

it made me realize that if i had money to buy better supplies i could be a better modeler! i only have one paint brush, some paints, and a few spraycans...so sad :(

anyway! wonderful work.

i would just like to commend you on your oh-SO-beautiful work.

it made me realize that if i had money to buy better supplies i could be a better modeler! i only have one paint brush, some paints, and a few spraycans...so sad :(

anyway! wonderful work.

yeah sadly stuff tend to cost money even though I really have NO special tools.. all my stuff are standard except for a couple things.. such as that circle template and the panel line scriber which I bought a long time ago because I messed up painting the body so often that I had to keep stripping the paint off and I needed that to unclog the panel lines.

Ive been building models a long time and things just kept accumulating.. Ive built very very few models.. its just that I spent forever on each one.. so whenever I visited the hobby shop I would not buy a kit becuase I was still working on one or two so I just bought supplies.. and thats how I ended up with just about everything I need. its not like I went into a hobby shop one time and bought half the store. so while some people would keep buying kits and end up with a shelves full of unbuilt kits.. I would be more interesting in finding useful supplies and new kind of paints and stuff. when I stop by a hobby shop 19 times out of 20 times Im there to check out tools.

but let me let you in on a preview.. the tools that I use most are actually a set of paint brushes and a magnifying glass.. but I'll show you that when I finally get to post my progress on the dash (which is the last component before painting the body)

but i could really use an airbrush...
and brushes of different sizes...

i'm going to get that kit.
so beautiful.

brushes of different sizes are good.. all you really need are four. a very very tiny one.. the smallest you can find. then a small brush, a medium/small brush, and a big brush for applying paint quickly to large area.

an airbrush is a good tool because it can lay down the paint very very thin.. so the parts dont look like they have a thick cost of paint on them. and of course its good for mask and paint.. which I do a lot. but it is not good for painting car body.. if thats what you want to get it for. use spray can.. especially tamiya.. testors/model master are good but they are too hit and miss.. they can be real good or they can be real bad.. I have also switched nozzle from one can to another because the quality of the nozzle is inconsistant.. so the thing with testors is that if you come upon a good can that sprays really good save the nozzle!!!!

when I finally finish the body I will post a blow-by-blow of exactly how I lay down the paint and polish the body.. all from using spray cans and some polishing clothes/compounds.

your blow by blow would help very much as i have commenced work on a 360 modena. mine's going to be BLACK cuz black is SUCH a sleek color...in my humble opinion. black can make even a crappy car look good. heh.

ok.. just to have something to post.. Im well on the way to painting the body. initially I was gonna paint it model master silver blue metallic, but I changed my mind when I noticed that the regular silver would go much better with the aluminum accent of the interior. so Ive decided to go with tamiya TS-17 aluminum metallic instead. so it seems this is gonna be a box-stock build, even the color is right out of the box.

of course I first applied the tamiya white primer.. after that I had this idea of enlarging the panel lines.. this way hopefully after Im done I can get away with not having to emphasize the panel lines with a pen or something because black panel lines on aluminum look kinda fake.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437panelline.jpg

after that I applied the TS-30 silver leaf. now as some of you probably know TS-30 covers extremely well.. and that's why I used it as an undercoat.. this way I can keep the color coat as thin as possible. the way I paint the body is to keep the color coat as thin as possible.. but really pour on the clear coat. if the clear coat doesnt look like its gonna drip.. I aint happy!!

it took maybe two coats of silver to give thorough coverage. you cant see the white after that. I sanded it lightly with some 4000 grit sanding clothes to smooth things out.. now dont worry if the finish is dulled by it.. the silver coat is for coverage only and who cares if it looks blotchy.

after the silver coat dried I applied two very light coats of TS-17.. and I mean light. if you see any kind of shine its too thick. the trick is to heat the can to get a fine spray. heat it, spray it from about 10" and move real fast. the paint dries real fast because the coat is so thin. wait a couple hours, next coat, couple more hours, apply a "coverage" coat. the purpose of the coat is to give a good coverage but without any paint build-up at all. you should see just a LITTLE shine.

the next step would be to wait for all these to dry thoroughly and put on one or two final color coats.

one warning about heating the can.. you heat the can in warm water of course.. but you do it with the cap on and after you remove the can dry the can thoroughly because if you dont you gonna get some of the water on the can to your paint job as you wave the can around spraying.

this is how it looks right now.. see how it only has a very mild sheen.. no shine at all. and if all go well there wont be any shine until I lay on the clear coats.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic54-med.jpg

this is going to be the best 360 build ever. :iceslolan

Looking good! I glued the head rest piece in before I painted mine, it seemed to help smooth that section out plus the paint matched better that way.

Looking good! I glued the head rest piece in before I painted mine, it seemed to help smooth that section out plus the paint matched better that way.

yes I know some people are gonna say that its better to glue say the side skirts on before painting but I intend to paint all the pieces separately this way I dont have to worry about paint clogging up the panel lines. also it's easier to not polish through the edge when you can deal with pieces separately.

finally. pflau, nice job on the body. hope you finish it soon.

how'd you enlarge the panel lines? with that hook looking thing? looks like you jacked it from your dentist or something...

it looks good expanded. do you think it'd make a black car look better?

its been a LONG time people now that the weather is FINALLY warming up Ive been getting quite a bit done.. between this project that Im finishing up and the testarossa that Ive still well in the middle of..

anyway.. here's the long over-due dash.. as always.. perfection is the key.. so.. on to the blow-by-blow!!!

* the first thing I did was to spray on a very thin coat of my favorite semi-gloss black - 30% testors gloss black enamel + 70% testors flat black enamel. the goal is to eliminate the plastic look and cover the light swirl marks on the top of the dash.

* after that I hand painted the guage cluster.. thats right.. the plate is handed painted using X-32.. no masking or anything at all!!! just a couple brushes under my magnifier jig. I screwed up?? no problem.. 91% isopropyl alcohol with a brush is perfect for touching up and removing paint from places where they shouldnt be!

* I masked out the radio and sprayed it with a coat of tamiya X-32 per instruction. sorry I lost the pictures of the masking process as it was done a couple months ago. after the paint dried I detailed the radio again with a brush under my magnifier jig.

* now there are five dials and two recesses where the indicator lights are. the dials would be done with decals.. so what to do with the recesses?? flat black paint of course! so allow me to again present one of my favorite paint technique - pooling.

* I thinned the XF-18 flat black like 1:3.. practically turned the paint into ink. now imagaine how you would use the paint bucket tool in photoshop or paintshop pro or any painting program.. that's how I paint using pooling.

in this picture I just did the right side.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic55.jpg

now that the right side was dry I did the left side.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic56.jpg

you would see the perfect result in the final picture.

* now on to the decals.. the dial decals are too big to fit into the dial recesses.. you must trim away the clear border. I used a small pair of scissors and a nail clipper to do precise spot trimming.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic57.jpg

after that I used a very small brush to apply the decals. now how the hack do you get the decals to be in the correct orientation??? you need to somehow rotate them so their positions are perfect. here's what I did. I used the microbrush that I mentioned umpteen times and "spinned" it along the edge of the dial to rotate the dials to the absolutely perfect position.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic58.jpg

for the three tiny dials.. I simply pushed the microbrush against the decals and twisted the brush to turn the decals to the perfect position. be gentle though.. patience is the key.. after I applied the decals.. I applied some super sol setting solution.

* finally I applied the 360Spider emblem metal transfer. the result is perfection! :bananasmi
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic59-med.jpg

nicely done pflau. love the work you've done. you're really going all put on this car, aren't you?

All of the hard work you are putting into this really shows. This has got to be the best looking 360 Spider around. And it's not even finished yet.

thats right Im going all out on this one!! this is gonna be the best 360 spider ever!! wait till you see how I do my headlights and taillights!!

I got myself a tamiya display case and I'm going to a glass cutter and cut myself a real piece of mirror for the case bottom. :iceslolan

I have to give it to those who like build four five of these in different color and everything.. after Im done with this one I dont ever wanna build another 360 spider ever again.. I'll go crazy trying to get everything even more perfect than I do this time!! :grinno:

Man....all out on the display too? Jesus. i just bought one of those plastic display cases for my R34(tamiya), but shitty paint f***** it up, so my motor max metal body will go in there, until I get another tamiya.

pflau,
Very clean work so far...you build like you were employed by Tamiya themselves!! I like your dash/gauge technique.
Now heat stain that exhaust and wire those ignition packs.
This is TOO clean
:evillol:

OK, here come those beautiful headlights!!!! I must say tamiya did a great job on those headlights.. so I have to do them justice!!

first I did the usual.. painted the headlights body color, and dotted the little "dont know what that is" tiny lights with testors chrome silver. and then I moved on to painting the lights themselves.. now there are three "bulbs".. the main lights I painted with testors chrome silver. the middle light I did what the instruction said.. "painted" the back with chrome silver.. but of course nooooo. for the best effect I used bare-metal ultra bright chrome foil!! it's not really that bright onthe sticky side but well its bright enough for me.. and for the turn signal lights I painted the rear with clear orange per instruction.. heres how the thing looks after I put them all together:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic61.jpg

for the lens I did what everybody else seems to be doing.. blacken the edge. I painted the edge with XF-1 and then clean up any "overspray" with 91% isopropyl alcohol - this give me a very sharp and perfect edge.. check this out:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic62.jpg

now putting everything together using microscale kristal klear..
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic63.jpgI LOVE IT!!!!! :ylsuper:

this is amazing :eek2:

here are the taillights.. I wish the pictures would be better but it's really tough to take good pictures of something that constrasty!!

ok.. so here's what I did:

* I lined the back with bare-metal ultr-bright metal foil, but of course!
* I hand painted the lenses.. that's right what you see here is hand painted perfection!!:)
* I then "glued" the lenses to the foil using.. guess what?.. 91% isopropyl alcohol!! see I soaked a brush with the alcohol, dipped it against the base of the lens, the the capillary action drew the alcohol around the seam between the lens and the foil.. ant the beauty is that the alcohol melted the paint around the lens base the the paint acted as adhesive gluing the lens to the foil. CLEAN!!

you can see how bright the bare-metal foil is in this picture!!
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic64.jpg
and these are finished taillights!!:D
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic65.jpg

least you think I forgot the body.. quick update.. color coats done!!! next up clear coats!!
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic66.jpg

whooooo thats coolll nice job at evrything!!

look really great

what is this color ?

looks good

what is this color ?

yeah what color is that, it looks so great!! wonderful job !!!

actually that's tamiya TS-17 gloss aluminum.. it looks better than it actually does because the picture is a little contrasty and makes it look kinda gun-metalish..

Hey , thats fanatastic!!
noticed that the spider has attachment tabs on the front headlight lens that the Coupé doesn't have. its easier to fix the light assembly.
Great work, real precision here!!

any updates, pfau ???

sorry I got caught up working on the testarossa and the porsche 959. this past weekend I was all set to put on the gloss coats but then I noticed I forgot to put on the hood decal.. so I did that and now Im just waiting around to put on the gloss coat.. but Im almost done with my 959 body so I probably want to finish that first.. I'll probably get around to it this weekend at the latest.

well nothing new cus the body is the only thing left.. so I got to at last put on a few coats of clear this weekend.. this is how it looks. note that the picture is dark this way I can show the texture of the paint. this is after two mist coats and two medium/heavy coats.. there are lots of orange peels.. but they will disappear when I get to the polishing stage.

see the tamiya TS-13 clear did not affect the decal at all.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic67.jpg

Stunning model. Good write up/tutorial also!!1

ok Im back!!! yup I didnt forget this model.. I simply got frustrated at how it doesnt matter how many coats of clear lacquer I put down it doesn't get that _drip_ look.. so at this point Im gonna give up. I would never get that maple syrup look I get with enamel. anyway I took the summer off from model building.. tough to stay indoor building models when its warm and sunny out. but now the weather is perfect.. not too warm and not to cold.. so Im back and I will provide some update soon enough. :smile:

in the words of napoleon dynamite: yessssssssssss

i've been away and you haven't finished it yet! can't wait to see more

wow, lovin your ferrari...

old thread.

old thread.

Dont think the model has been completed yet has it ?!?

Mike

well one thing you found out after not having done any modeling for a few months is that the crazy glue has clogged again!!

I just drilled out the clog using a dremal minimite and a #69 mini drill bit.. works like a charm!!
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic68.jpg

I got the set from micromark many years ago..
http://www.micromark.com/prodimgs/26104.jpg

well.. this is one picture that you dont see often. let me tell what happened..

the thing about tamiya lacquer is that you need to polish them to get the shine.. it doesnt matter how glossy it looks when you first spray it on.. it will dry to an orange peel texture.

this is both good and bad.. with enamel.. the paint skins over and dries from the outside in. the skin thus gives a glossy effect. and when it shrinks it shrinks down to a slight ripple. with lacquer, the paint dries from the outside in.. so when it shrinks it shrinks to an orange peel texture. but since it dries flat.. you dont have to worry about flatten out the ripples.. you just need to get rid of the orange peel and you get a mirror smooth finish.

so what happened here in the picture?? what happened was that there is a mold line that I neglected to sand - the model line that runs over the crease of the body panel. so when I polished the door I polished right through the crease.. and I had to masked out the body to respray the door. as you can see the door is just painted but the body has been polished already. and you can see the stark contrast of the before/after paint work.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic69.jpg