Security light on and won't start


lup
11-17-2003, 12:03 PM
I have a 2000 alero, purchased a year and a half ago with 33,000 miles. This year I am having numerous problems. First of all I will be driving and the security light will come on. This happened several times then one day I went to start car and it would not start. An hour later it started. A couple months later car wouldn't start, SECURITY light flashes even with key out of ignition. Waited till next day, wouldn't start. Service center came and jumped car and it started. Replaced battery even though detected good. Now a couple months later It is happening again. Went to gas station, when went to start car, security light flashes. Waited about 5-10 min with no attempt to start, and it started. Wonder if this is related to the fact that my gas gauge is not functioning. Gas hand sticks at full, occasionally sticking on empty at all times.

whdream
12-08-2003, 02:03 PM
I recently had this problem a month or so ago. And when I called the dealership they informaed me that my remote car starter can/might affect the security settings on my car. Trying to start it a couple times failed. But leavin it for a bit and retrying seemed to fix this. And it would not start all the other times I tried.
It seems to have a malfunction within the security feature which can be overided by the remote starter. Never had the problem again though..

GMMerlin
12-08-2003, 02:57 PM
Your Security problem is most likely caused by a faulty ignition switch and passlock sensor.
The PCM and BCM will set DTC's to aid with the diagnosis of your problem.

ponchonutty
12-08-2003, 11:54 PM
Your Security problem is most likely caused by a faulty ignition switch and passlock sensor.
The PCM and BCM will set DTC's to aid with the diagnosis of your problem.

Yeah, being an installer of remote starters, I have seen many of the GM Passlock systems fail. You should have it checked out. If you do have a remote start, you should take out the bypass before you take it to the dealer to rule it out.

lup
12-09-2003, 01:18 AM
GM told me that I needed a new ignition, $300. A guy I know said to try a different key. I have been using my spare key and it hasn't happened again so far. Is there a way to disable the security feature totally?

ponchonutty
12-09-2003, 07:50 AM
GM told me that I needed a new ignition, $300. A guy I know said to try a different key. I have been using my spare key and it hasn't happened again so far. Is there a way to disable the security feature totally?
I think there is a person on here that knows how to disable it but I am unsure who. I would like to know too. If I were you, I would get another key made and have it programed. Some vehicles will let you program it yourself so you do not have to pay the dealer to do so.

Lorie
12-24-2003, 03:07 PM
I have experienced this same starter light problem 4 times now. First time, it started after waiting awhile (actually it was towed to the dealer and started fine for them...an hour or two after it would not start for me). Second time, the alternate key, and the waiting is what got it started. Third time, these solutions did not work, but this did: turn the car on so the dash warnings light up and show. Wait until the Security light stops blinking, then turn the car off, then turn it back on to start it right away. If available, use your alternate key for this.
Thank you to Dave at Kindred Olds in Smithville, MO for this tip. Dave told me that I would likely need to replace something in the future to clear up the problem.
Two days ago, my car would not start again. This time, it was not preceeded by the Security Light being on. My mechanic (not an Olds shop) wants the remote to do the override. But I don't have one, never got one when I bought it. Come to find out, the car was made with one, but the dealer I bought it from (used) did not have it.

Does anyone know what the item is that I need to replace to clear this up?

ponchonutty
12-26-2003, 11:07 PM
I have experienced this same starter light problem 4 times now. First time, it started after waiting awhile (actually it was towed to the dealer and started fine for them...an hour or two after it would not start for me). Second time, the alternate key, and the waiting is what got it started. Third time, these solutions did not work, but this did: turn the car on so the dash warnings light up and show. Wait until the Security light stops blinking, then turn the car off, then turn it back on to start it right away. If available, use your alternate key for this.
Thank you to Dave at Kindred Olds in Smithville, MO for this tip. Dave told me that I would likely need to replace something in the future to clear up the problem.
Two days ago, my car would not start again. This time, it was not preceeded by the Security Light being on. My mechanic (not an Olds shop) wants the remote to do the override. But I don't have one, never got one when I bought it. Come to find out, the car was made with one, but the dealer I bought it from (used) did not have it.

Does anyone know what the item is that I need to replace to clear this up?

If I am correct, it is the whole ignition assembly. The transponder ring that reads the keys' codes go bad.

98altima
12-30-2003, 08:25 AM
OK my sister is having somewhat of the same problem, her car turns but it doesnt want to start, i thought that it was a coil pack but so far we have spark on the 2-4-6 cylinders.. could this be a problem??

ponchonutty
12-30-2003, 10:47 PM
OK my sister is having somewhat of the same problem, her car turns but it doesnt want to start, i thought that it was a coil pack but so far we have spark on the 2-4-6 cylinders.. could this be a problem??
What kind of car? If it is GM, check to make sure the fuel injectors are being energized. These systems shut the fuel off.

98altima
12-31-2003, 09:25 AM
ill check that tonight.. thanks man.

JustJosh
01-07-2004, 12:50 PM
I was having problems with the passlock as many others have been having as well. I took the ignition cylinder out and took it apart. To remove the ignition cylinder you have to press in on a pin that is on the back of the ignition cylinder with the key in and turn it and pull and it will pull out. To take the cylinder apart you all you have to do is line up the end with the groove on the inside of the cylinder, the part the key is in, with the channel on the outside of the cylinder and depress the part with a paperclip and slide it apart. There are a few small pieces and springs so be careful!! Now you just have to clean the contacts and reassemble it. That little cleaning saved my at least $300. I hope that this helps some with their problem!!!!!!!!!!!!

You may even try just cleaning it with carb cleaner and turning it without taking it apart and then blowing it out with air. I had not thought about that but looking back I think it shouldwork as well. TO lubricate it use graphite powder and your hopefully up and running

JTrujillo86
02-29-2004, 02:36 PM
I had this isssue with my 1997 Malibu. One day I was at the car wash when the security light came on; the car was running at the time. Another time, I went out to start it and nothing...then the light poped up. I didn't realize it at the time, but the key that I was using was a copy made at a local hardware store. I was told by the GM dealer that you must use an original key, or have another ordered from the factory.

Jeremy

wpbharry
02-29-2004, 04:50 PM
I have a '98 Malibu LS, and the ignition lock cylinder has been replaced multiple times. Same thing with the Alero, I'm sure.

When the security light flashes and the car won't start, you need to walk away from it for 20 minutes or so, come back and then it starts as if nothing ever happened. VERY annoying in the pouring rain.

Take it to a GM dealer and get a new one. Unfortunately, it's likely to happen again. Sorry 'bout that.

lup
03-01-2004, 10:04 AM
Well to update you guys, this problem has yet to happen again since I told you all about replacing my key. I am thrilled about that. Right now my tension pulley needs replaced and I still haven't got anyone to fix the water leak coming in my passenger door. I think that my fuel gauge has fixed itself. But I still rely only on my tripometor. And I did have to replace my resistor for my blower motor in January. But I am worried about the reply from the person who had the Malibu. My mom just bought one!

wpbharry
03-01-2004, 01:10 PM
Not to worry if your Mom bought an '04 Malibu. It seems that the ignition lock cylinders were only bad through the '01 or '02 models years.

But, there are OTHER problems with the '04 Malibu. Check the threads under "Malibu" for more specifics.

ponchonutty
03-02-2004, 08:24 AM
Yeah, I think I would have opted for the older Malibu's problems versus the new ones! Looks like GM built a turd with 4 wheels then decided to add factory remote start (which doesn't work well) to suck consumers into it.

matmyers
03-11-2004, 07:58 PM
I am a locksmith. I have worked with these passlocks. The keys that you get from a hardware store should be fine (assuming their duplicators are cutting right). The key for malibu 97-02, alero 97-02, & Grand am 97-02 all have passlock technology. There is no chip or transponder in the head of the keys. There are magnets in the ignition. When the correct key is inserted and turned, the magnets activate in a sidebar and the computer reads the sequence to see if there is a match. if there is no match, the security light will stay on or blink and the car will not start. When the security light comes on, my first guess would be a worn key. The least expensive solution is to go to your local locksmith or dealer and have a key cut BY CODE. A code cut key is cut to factory depths and spaces and is not a copy. Dealerships can get you gm codes through their computers where locksmiths can read the cuts on your worn key & correct the depths onto a new blank. Cost is somewhere between $5.00-$10.00 if you go to them. If that doesn't work, then you can clean the ignition with a cleaner or lubricant that won't attract dust. (FYI: I don't suggest using graphite in a car lock because most auto locks self lubricate with a thick grease. Adding graphite will create a graphite-grease paste that could cause problems.) If you still have problems, then I would remove the lock cylinder and clean or replace it. Retail on this lock is $140.00 and it's almost impossible to find in salvage. P.S. you might also try leaving the key in the "on" position for 10 minutes. If the light goes off, you have programmed the computer to recognize the key. Keep in mind that if you do this with a copy, you will always want to use copies made from THAT KEY.

ponchonutty
03-13-2004, 10:59 AM
I am a locksmith. I have worked with these passlocks. The keys that you get from a hardware store should be fine (assuming their duplicators are cutting right). The key for malibu 97-02, alero 97-02, & Grand am 97-02 all have passlock technology. There is no chip or transponder in the head of the keys. There are magnets in the ignition. When the correct key is inserted and turned, the magnets activate in a sidebar and the computer reads the sequence to see if there is a match. if there is no match, the security light will stay on or blink and the car will not start. When the security light comes on, my first guess would be a worn key. The least expensive solution is to go to your local locksmith or dealer and have a key cut BY CODE. A code cut key is cut to factory depths and spaces and is not a copy. Dealerships can get you gm codes through their computers where locksmiths can read the cuts on your worn key & correct the depths onto a new blank. Cost is somewhere between $5.00-$10.00 if you go to them. If that doesn't work, then you can clean the ignition with a cleaner or lubricant that won't attract dust. (FYI: I don't suggest using graphite in a car lock because most auto locks self lubricate with a thick grease. Adding graphite will create a graphite-grease paste that could cause problems.) If you still have problems, then I would remove the lock cylinder and clean or replace it. Retail on this lock is $140.00 and it's almost impossible to find in salvage. P.S. you might also try leaving the key in the "on" position for 10 minutes. If the light goes off, you have programmed the computer to recognize the key. Keep in mind that if you do this with a copy, you will always want to use copies made from THAT KEY.


I thought there is more to this ignition than what you say. So, for my '01 Silverado, I can go to True Value and have them cut a key and that key will work? I was told the key is the one with the "code". I install remote starts so that's why I like to know.

matmyers
03-15-2004, 07:45 PM
There is no factory transponder for an '01 Silverado, so the True Value Key should work fine. $2.59 is always better than $85.00.

ponchonutty
03-15-2004, 09:03 PM
There is no factory transponder for an '01 Silverado, so the True Value Key should work fine. $2.59 is always better than $85.00.
Then why won't it start with a remote starter until I install a bypass? If I hold my key close to it and then remote start it, it works fine. This is what I use to bypass the system. http://directed.com/guides/manuals/ig/accessories/N555L_7-02B.pdf

The Passlock 3 systems use a different system to bypass. Also, I have never paid that for a GM key. I buy them online for $5.

matmyers
03-16-2004, 07:27 PM
Well, you have Stymied me. All my literature shows the Chevy Silverado using passlock technology (P1) if you can auto start it, but need to have the key close to the ignition, that is a sign of P3 (passkey transponder) technology. As of 2003, the only Chevy that uses a Transponder (as far as my books say) is the '99-'03 Venture. Is there a chance that the computer system was changed after market? It wouldn't make sense for them to do that, but that's all I can come up with.
My reference to the price of keys was for those real pricey ones that require programming.
I have never installed a remote start, so I can't explain what is stopping your system from working. I try not to go any deeper than the steering column. --sorry

ponchonutty
03-16-2004, 09:47 PM
Well, you have Stymied me. All my literature shows the Chevy Silverado using passlock technology (P1) if you can auto start it, but need to have the key close to the ignition, that is a sign of P3 (passkey transponder) technology. As of 2003, the only Chevy that uses a Transponder (as far as my books say) is the '99-'03 Venture. Is there a chance that the computer system was changed after market? It wouldn't make sense for them to do that, but that's all I can come up with.
My reference to the price of keys was for those real pricey ones that require programming.
I have never installed a remote start, so I can't explain what is stopping your system from working. I try not to go any deeper than the steering column. --sorry
Well, I'll do it again on the next GM vehicle I do and I'll report back to this if I remember. My truck I have owned since the day it rolled off the truck shipper so I know nothing was changed. I also know how to self-program many of these vehicles. I also know there is a major difference even with some of the PK3 cars. We refer to them as PK3+. I use a PK3 interface but it won't work right on the PK3+ cars so then I have to use a universal piece where you install another key inside a box that has a transponder inside. That then goes to an antenna that you locate around the ignition cylendar.

techbob
09-21-2004, 03:16 PM
I have a 99 Intrigue and just spent 600 for a new cylinder and ignition switch. By reading all these posts about the stupid Passlock system there seems to be a manufacturer defect here and I am going to fight GM for my money back. I think if enough of us do this they might get the picture. i plan on being relentless until I get resolve. It concerns me the most that its my wifes car and for safety reasons she should not be left stranded for 20 minutes at a time. Lets all go after them for shoddy manufacturing.

jsmcguire
11-18-2004, 11:51 AM
I just joined this board, so hope I'm using it right. I have the security light no-start problem with my 2000 Grand Am GT. It started 18 months after I bought it used, and has been intermittent for a year now. It will go three months without a problem, then a cluster of no-starts will occur over about a week, then it may go two months OK, then another cluster. It's in a cluster now. The owner's manual actually describes the problem, though it is indexed in a way that I didn't expect. It says that the car thinks that the ignition lock cylinder has been tampered with, so it prevents starting for 10 minutes. It matter-of-factly says if the car doesn't start and the security light is blinking, wait 10 minutes to start the car. I have found that it doesn't matter if the key is in or on, as long as you start the car from the off position.

I, too, am getting quite fed up and think GM ought to do something about it instead of the customer living on pins and needles all the time. My dealer says they can't fix it.

sharrukin
05-15-2006, 11:50 AM
Hi all,

I have an Alero'03, the way it worked for me was, inserting the key for 10 minutes at ON, then, remove the key, and reinsert it, start the car.. thats all. The security as well as the engine lights went off.

thanks for your help

tbuckit1
06-16-2006, 09:13 AM
I have an Alero that has the security light staying on all the time, but starts okay. I can hear something under the dash clicking on and off constantly. I haven't had time to get under there and check to see what's going on. I may try the spray cleaner on the ignition trick, to see if that will help the situation or not.

Any other ideas??

TB1

ponchonutty
06-18-2006, 09:38 AM
tbuckit, you sure you don't have an aftermarket alarm or something under there? Passlock won't make any clicking noises.

tbuckit1
06-19-2006, 07:38 AM
Ponchonutty, I have just noticed the clicking noises continue after the turn signal is canceled. Now, I don't think it has anything to do with the security light being on.

tbuckit1
06-20-2006, 05:09 PM
I've got he same thing going on right now. Pulled the Alero into the shop to replace the multifunction switch, easy deal. Got it back together, now won't start. Security system no doubt engaged for some reason, anyway, disconnected battery cable (thought it might erase a code or something) no improvement, still won't start.

Called my local GM dealer, was told to put a battery charger on it, turn on the ignition, and walk away from it for about 30 minutes. Battery charger is to keep from running the battery down while leaving the ignition on. If you leave it on and lose the charge on the battery, then you have to start from square one.

I'll let you know if it works.

TB1

ponchonutty
06-20-2006, 05:34 PM
Yeah, leaving the ignition on for at least 15 minutes will allow you to start the car too.

tbuckit1
06-21-2006, 07:26 AM
leaving the ignition switch in the on position for about thirty minutes did the trick. The system reset itself and everything seems to be back to normal. Make sure to connect a battery charger before you try this though.

TB1

tbuckit1
06-21-2006, 07:37 AM
The car seems to have reset itself and everythings back to normal. We'll see.............

TB1

jmoleary
02-01-2007, 01:49 PM
Having learned some interesting behavior from experience, I'd like to share them with anyone interested. I wanted to install an aftermarket remote starter on my wife's 2002 Montana. Because it uss PK3 keys, manuals stated an additional PK3 key and special transponder were required to function. I found a shortcut that works for me. I simply duct taped the extra PK3 key inside the steering column, next to the ignition module. Now the very expensive PK3 keys don't work, but cheap hardware store copies do. Also the remote starter works fine without the additional transponder.

BNaylor
02-01-2007, 02:26 PM
Sorry guys this is an old thread. Thread closed.


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