1990 accord performance chip?

I really need help installing this......There's two wires hangin out of it I cant figure out where they go can someone please help me? A pic would be nice also. :naughty:

Can someone please help me with this.........They said it would take only 15 min to install but i had it for already a month=(

tell me you didn't buy one of those "chips" off eBay? :(

- Nathan

I did lol but how do you install it?

I really need help installing this......There's two wires hangin out of it I cant figure out where they go can someone please help me? A pic would be nice also. :naughty:

I also bought the chip and I was able to instale it, it works great! to insale it your going to have to find the Air Tempeture sensor; if your looking at the engin it would be located at "your" right, back on the right side of the INTAKE MANIFOLD, it's a little plug with two holes where you'll comect the two plugs from your risister, then tape it with some black electrical tape and situate it in a spot in your ingine, be sure to disconect your battery before doing this and then once done obiously reconect, otherwise your check ingine light will come on and stay on until you disconect and reconect, reseting the sensor readings. Hope I was some help feel free the contacte me with any questions.

it's a scam. It's a resistor in a plastic box. It does not affect anything at WOT, the ECU doesn't even listen to the IAT sensor at WOT, and I'd bet that the resistor is probably some random value and far from a calculated value. If anything, it's making you waste gas by making your car run richer than usual at part throttle.

- Nathan

I also bought the chip and I was able to instale it, it works great! to insale it your going to have to find the Air Tempeture sensor; if your looking at the engin it would be located at "your" right, back on the right side of the INTAKE MANIFOLD, it's a little plug with two holes where you'll comect the two plugs from your risister, then tape it with some black electrical tape and situate it in a spot in your ingine, be sure to disconect your battery before doing this and then once done obiously reconect, otherwise your check ingine light will come on and stay on until you disconect and reconect, reseting the sensor readings. Hope I was some help feel free the contacte me with any questions.



Can you please post up a pic,Im not that good with cars :rolleyes:

and yet, he still doesn't listen :). Don't install it....it doesn't work. If anything your car will be getting all kinds of false information and running less than optimum. Any "gains" claimed by people who have it is purely psychological. Yes, I know what I'm talking about. Further try to get your money back - as well, if you do install it. DO NOT replace the IAT with it, as that'll be even worse than wiring it in circuit with the IAT.

FURTHER: THE IAT IS NOT ACTIVE DURING WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, hence, the "chip" will do jack for you at that point.

- Nathan

those things are a hoax man... jsut read some of the feedback on ebay. I personally wouldnt splice my factory harness for something like this which would undoubtibly affedt the functionality of my car. Just a hint of wise advice.

Keith

Well I just wanna try it out I dont think it's the one you guys are talkin about can someone post a pic of it

Well I just wanna try it out I dont think it's the one you guys are talkin about can someone post a pic of it

I have to agree send it back and try to get your money back. It's crap if it's not an HONDATA chip and even then unless you are running a turbo or have some serious engine work done (turbo or different cams, valves, throttle body) even the HONDATA chip (which is a true ECU re-chip) won't do you much good as far as gains without some serious engine mods.

Next, try not to buy anything off ebay without asking people on forums first if it's junk or not. It'll save you a lot of time and money!
Bruce

I *know* it is what we're talking about, there is no chip that has wires coming out of it, unless it's a Hondata or AEM EMS (several hundred to over a thousand dollars!), which don't even have wires coming out of them, they have harnesses. OR they'd just simply be true chips that have to be soldered onto the PC board inside the ECU itself.

Believe me, you got scammed, send it back, if he won't give your money back, you can always go through paypal if you payed via paypal and file a "not as described report".

- Nathan

alright guys ill take ur advice......Ill probably just sell it to someone for alot of $ lol

alright guys ill take ur advice......Ill probably just sell it to someone for alot of $ lol

Just out of curiosity what was the item # of the "chip" you bought off ebay?

Not sure man I had it for awhile I threw away everything............Why you ask man?

I just wanted to see the write up and picture on what you actually purchased. To find the item # all you have to do is go to ebay and look in your purchase history and it should show the item #. But no biggie if you don't have the item #.

Bruce

it's a scam. It's a resistor in a plastic box. It does not affect anything at WOT, the ECU doesn't even listen to the IAT sensor at WOT, and I'd bet that the resistor is probably some random value and far from a calculated value. If anything, it's making you waste gas by making your car run richer than usual at part throttle.

- Nathan

It's not a resister in a plastic box, it's a resistor that fits in the plug of your wire harness there is no cutting or real work involved it's just plug & play. how can you say the ecu doesn't even listen to the IAT sensor, there are company's like AEM, and K&N etc.. that make there money selling cold air intakes that out perform AEM original Air Intake (the shorter version) WHY? Because cold air generates more power throughout the RPM range. This results in better acceleration that traditional intake systems. That was off www.aempower.com so if the the ecu doesn't listen to the IAT sensor how do you suppose AEM came make a statement like that. (I've haven't heard of anyone suing AEM for misrepresentation) so so far I've established that through the IAT sensor the ecu registers the air temp. and adjusts to that stimuli. The resister in question fools the ECU by making it think that the IAT sensor registers cold air coming through, releasing an extra 10-15 HP. Think the movie the Matrix, remember all the people that weren't free, there senses are being fooled be electrical stimuli from the machines so all those people in the pods no matter what believed they were living out there lives with out any knowledge of the reality, well think of this chip as a matrix for your ECU, it will belive that it's sucking up cold air no matter what even in the summer at a 100 degrees, where as with cold air intack alone (with out the chip,{I have both}) your IAT would pick up the correct temp, and your better acceleration is all of a sudden gone. Ever raced on one of those hot summer day's when the temp reaches at or about 100 degrees, Your $150-$200 AEM cold air intake no longer out perform the AEM original Air Intake (the shorter version).

I just wanted to see the write up and picture on what you actually purchased. To find the item # all you have to do is go to ebay and look in your purchase history and it should show the item #. But no biggie if you don't have the item #.

Bruce

Here is an exaple of what he bought on Ebay: SPEED CHIP UP TO 20-25HP Honda Accord Item number: 2443094917 or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36475&item=2443094917

If anyone wants to make there own decisions based on the info the page gives about the item in question check it out for your selves!

I really need help installing this......There's two wires hangin out of it I cant figure out where they go can someone please help me? A pic would be nice also. :naughty:


If you want I'll upload a picture some time next week.

First, Thanks for the link and I appreciate you trying to help out the guy that bought the same thing you did.

Second, I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one. IMO that's pretty much a crap product.
I think I'm following what you are saying but AEM CAI's work on better air velocity and actually sucking in cold air not fooling the engine. Colder air mixed with combustion actually makes the additional HP not simply fooling the IAT sensor into sucking in more gas. With that said, the new AEM V2 is a short ram. Yup Short ram, not a CAI that fits in the wheel well. AEM claims better #'s with their V2 short ram than their original CAI. They say it has to do with the design of the tube and the velocity of the air flow. Not sure if they tested HP by making a V2 CAI to see if there was a difference but I assume they probably tried it out and found the difference to be minimal.

Anyway, anything that simply fools the IAT and doesn't acutally suck in more cold air is only going to make your car run richer than it needs to and prolly won't result in much of a HP gain.

Last, if it actually does work then where is the copy of the dyno chart if they say it is dyno proven? I'd be very skeptical of that seller until they posted an actual before and after dyno chart that was time and date stamped by a legit dyno shop. Even then charts can be fraudulent. Maybe if importuner mag did an actual comparison then I would believe it and then it might only be 2 or 3 HP at the most. The seller claims 20-25 HP gain? Not bloody likely unless you slap a turbo on there at the same time :p

Just my 2 cents.
Bruce

First, Thanks for the link and I appreciate you trying to help out the guy that bought the same thing you did.

Second, I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one. IMO that's pretty much a crap product.
I think I'm following what you are saying but AEM CAI's work on better air velocity and actually sucking in cold air not fooling the engine. Colder air mixed with combustion actually makes the additional HP not simply fooling the IAT sensor into sucking in more gas. With that said, the new AEM V2 is a short ram. Yup Short ram, not a CAI that fits in the wheel well. AEM claims better #'s with their V2 short ram than their original CAI. They say it has to do with the design of the tube and the velocity of the air flow. Not sure if they tested HP by making a V2 CAI to see if there was a difference but I assume they probably tried it out and found the difference to be minimal.

Anyway, anything that simply fools the IAT and doesn't acutally suck in more cold air is only going to make your car run richer than it needs to and prolly won't result in much of a HP gain.

Last, if it actually does work then where is the copy of the dyno chart if they say it is dyno proven? I'd be very skeptical of that seller until they posted an actual before and after dyno chart that was time and date stamped by a legit dyno shop. Even then charts can be fraudulent. Maybe if importuner mag did an actual comparison then I would believe it and then it might only be 2 or 3 HP at the most. The seller claims 20-25 HP gain? Not bloody likely unless you slap a turbo on there at the same time :p

Just my 2 cents.
Bruce

Bruce with all due respect look at the website www.aempower.com the VR2 is there new intake system which they don't refer to as a cold air intake. but I've put it in to my car and seen it in other cars believe me it's a supped up cold air intake; just look at the picture, better yet read this:
http://www.aempower.com/press_events_detail.asp?aid=14
It shows in full color details the VR2 being put in (looks like a cold air induction system to me) "fits in the wheel well" .
Now I understand what your saying about the chip, but that's exactly it, the chip simply fools the ECU not the "IAT" ( the IAT is disabled and the chip is what the ECU thinks the IAT is) and does actually suck in more air.(not cold air just more air) {only the ECU thinks it's cold air} When the ECU gets a reading that it's sucking cold air it will in a nutshell make the engine suck up more air. Now in reality if you don't have a Cold air intake you could be sucking warm air but the fact remains your sucking more air than usual, and when it comes to cars the more air your car gets the faster it moves, thus the idea of a super charger. (by no means am I comparing this chip to a super charger but you get the idea) Now the seller claims 20-25 HP gain is crap! it really only give you depending on the car 5-15 HP gains. (But every bit of HP counts especially when your talking about something so small and easy to do{given that you know where all the sensors in your car are, and can distinguish between them}) Before I installed it I thought the same thing you do, the only way to you'll know is if you ever try it, or drive one of your friends cars before the chip and after they put it in, if one of your friends would jut so happen to decide to put one in, per say.

Hey thanks for the reply. I'm still going to have to disagree to some extent on two points.

1. The AEM V2 (at least in a 5th Gen Accord) does not sit in the wheel well. It sits in the engine bay so it takes in warmer air than a CAI sitting in the Wheel well. What car do you have with a V2 that sits inside the wheel well? I would be very interested in seeing some pics as I've talked to AEM techs and unless they've steered me wrong they told me all their V2's sit in the engine bay and not in the wheel well like their original CAI's do.

2. I'm still skeptical about the ebay chip we're talking about. Yes I understand it's supposed to fool the ECU but like you say I won't believe it until someone did a before and after dyno test with it. Then I would believe it.

Anyway, thanks for the lively conversation ;o)
Peace :-) Bruce

well there were lots of interesting points brought up. just to give my opinion, not trying to put anyone down. The new AEM v2 intake is a cold air intake, it resides in the exact same place as there original intake. The difference is in the tubing diameters.

Secondly that ebay item is just plain crap, not to be an ass or anything but for $4 your not gonna get 10-20hp. If such a thing really existed, every major manufacturer would have a version of it and then every car would have it. If it fools the sensor to think there is colder air coming in the engine which will do nothin but add more fuel and richen your air fuel ratio which in turn will eventually burn out your catalytic converter. Colder air has a more dense mixture of oxygen then warm air but if its not actually getting cold air then it will do nothing. The sensor will already adjust if ACTUAL cold air is drawn into the engine so there is no point.

Hey thanks for the reply. I'm still going to have to disagree to some extent on two points.

1. The AEM V2 (at least in a 5th Gen Accord) does not sit in the wheel well. It sits in the engine bay so it takes in warmer air than a CAI sitting in the Wheel well. What car do you have with a V2 that sits inside the wheel well? I would be very interested in seeing some pics as I've talked to AEM techs and unless they've steered me wrong they told me all their V2's sit in the engine bay and not in the wheel well like their original CAI's do.

2. I'm still skeptical about the ebay chip we're talking about. Yes I understand it's supposed to fool the ECU but like you say I won't believe it until someone did a before and after dyno test with it. Then I would believe it.

Anyway, thanks for the lively conversation ;o)
Peace :-) Bruce

Just figured I'd let the page do the talking for me as for the question to whether the VR2 is a cold air inductionsystem or not. click on this: http://www.aempower.com/press_events_detail.asp?aid=14
it goes into detail on how it is instaled and it's obious its a cold air induction system. Well thanks for all the input!!!

well there were lots of interesting points brought up. just to give my opinion, not trying to put anyone down. The new AEM v2 intake is a cold air intake, it resides in the exact same place as there original intake. The difference is in the tubing diameters.

Secondly that ebay item is just plain crap, not to be an ass or anything but for $4 your not gonna get 10-20hp. If such a thing really existed, every major manufacturer would have a version of it and then every car would have it. If it fools the sensor to think there is colder air coming in the engine which will do nothin but add more fuel and richen your air fuel ratio which in turn will eventually burn out your catalytic converter. Colder air has a more dense mixture of oxygen then warm air but if its not actually getting cold air then it will do nothing. The sensor will already adjust if ACTUAL cold air is drawn into the engine so there is no point.

As for the catalytic converter I removed it so that's the last of my problems, all I can say is I've used it; removed it; put it back in again; and have felt the difference in my throttle response, (as for the 10-20, I don't know) but there's no denying there is a significant increase in power. I own a 91 accord, if anyone was curious. it's been a pleasure!

Hey thanks for the reply. I'm still going to have to disagree to some extent on two points.

1. The AEM V2 (at least in a 5th Gen Accord) does not sit in the wheel well. It sits in the engine bay so it takes in warmer air than a CAI sitting in the Wheel well. What car do you have with a V2 that sits inside the wheel well? I would be very interested in seeing some pics as I've talked to AEM techs and unless they've steered me wrong they told me all their V2's sit in the engine bay and not in the wheel well like their original CAI's do.

2. I'm still skeptical about the ebay chip we're talking about. Yes I understand it's supposed to fool the ECU but like you say I won't believe it until someone did a before and after dyno test with it. Then I would believe it.

Anyway, thanks for the lively conversation ;o)
Peace :-) Bruce

On a didferent note can some ome help me with this issue???

HKS Springs for my 90-93 model Accord (Post #1)
Every company that makes springs for 90-93 Accords posts it as 90-97 Accord springs. I've contacted some company's like Skunk 2 and Neu speed and they've both told me that the "same" springs will fit Accords 90-97. But HKS sells it's springs for only 94-97 Accord. shouldn't they fit anyway? I really want HKS springs unless some one can tell me anything negative about them that could sway my to buy from the other two company's. Please inform me of any expirienses that you might have had not only with HKS, but also Skunk 2 and Nuespeed. Thanks... Omar

If you want I'll upload a picture some time next week.


sounds good man

wow, I'm never suprised by the unfortunate education of a lot of import drivers. It's not the fact that we drive imports, it's just the age and experience with cars - so I'll forgive it :). And I don't mean to flame or anything, so let me break this down.

1. I was talking about the IAT SENSOR the senor itself is a part of stock equipment, and no, the ECU does not listen to that particular sensor at wide open throttle, it ignores it completely. For a variety of reasons.

2. The "chip" supposably modifies this sensors input to make the ECU think it's getting colder air and thus increase fuel flow and timing - at part throttle. But the thing is, is that it's not tuned and could do that, or could be a lot worse.

3. Yes, some are just resistors that plug into the harness, others are disguised in a black box.

4. A cold air intake works off the principles of air velocity (longer pipe = faster air), as well as colder air. Of course, the misconception with cold air is that it's actually colder when it hits the intake manifold, but since the pipe runs through the engine bay, through a hot intake manifold heated by coolant, the initial temperature matters very little in the gains of the CAI. Typically you get the most gains, or "felt" gains from the fact that it is far less restrictive and far longer than a stock intake.

And for the record, I work part time at a machine shop/performance shop, I also took a great deal of engineering classes in fluid dynamics and other such things. So yes, I'm not just talking out of my rear end :)

In the end, the "Chips" on eBay are a very very very very bad product, COULD have been good, but Apex'i does it right - they modify the MAP sensors signal w/ their S-AFC and V-AFC modules. MAP sensor is not ignored at WOT, the reason it's harder to modify that sensor is that you would have to raise the voltage, not lower it in order to atain "richening or timing advances".


- Nathan

well there were lots of interesting points brought up. just to give my opinion, not trying to put anyone down. The new AEM v2 intake is a cold air intake, it resides in the exact same place as there original intake. The difference is in the tubing diameters.


No offense taken at all. :smile:

I completely agree with you that the IAT chip thing is crap but I'm still a bit confused on how you think that the AEM V2 resides in the exact same place as the Original AEM CAI?

Here's a picture of an AEM V2 - Notice the filter sits in the engine bay.
http://www.hondapitstop.com/member_rides/hondarides/accord_rides/1997_accord_rides/nicko_demeter/intake_aemv2_1p.jpg

Now here's a picture of an original AEM CAI. Notice the filter sits in the wheel well where it draws cooler air than the V2 or say a short ram intake.

http://www.hondapitstop.com/accord/technotes1/engine/cai_aem/cai_pics4/ecuaemfilter.jpg

Let me know what you think - Bruce

No offense taken at all. :smile:

I completely agree with you that the IAT chip thing is crap but I'm still a bit confused on how you think that the AEM V2 resides in the exact same place as the Original AEM CAI?

Here's a picture of an AEM V2 - Notice the filter sits in the engine bay.
http://www.hondapitstop.com/member_rides/hondarides/accord_rides/1997_accord_rides/nicko_demeter/intake_aemv2_1p.jpg

Now here's a picture of an original AEM CAI. Notice the filter sits in the wheel well where it draws cooler air than the V2 or say a short ram intake.

http://www.hondapitstop.com/accord/technotes1/engine/cai_aem/cai_pics4/ecuaemfilter.jpg

Let me know what you think - Bruce


Some one please click this link and scroll down: http://www.aempower.com/press_events_detail.asp?aid=14

it shows a pro from AEM, the company, instaling the V2, scroll all the way down as it goes in to detail step by step on how to install the V2.

Hey thanks for that link. I see their test vehicle was a civic. AEM must have decided to make the V2 for the 5th gen Accord a short RAM and a true CAI for the Civic. Too strange doncha think? I wonder if AEM did a test on an Accord with the short ram V2 and a true CAI V2 and didn't get much of a difference in HP gain between the two? At least that's what I would assume. Well, just goes to show you that you can't always rely on the info you get from an AEM tech as the one I talked to told me that all their V2's were short rams. I guess he meant all their 5th gen Accord V2's are short rams ;o) Wow we really strayed off the performance chip topic ;oP Oh well, all for good information :smile:
Bruce

odd, I'd have expected the higher reving car to get a shorter intake....... Perhaps they were going for tuning some other part of the power band than I'm thinking.

- Nathan

can anyone tell me if this is a good chip??? ebay item #2442673949

i have been reading your guys messages and so i decided to see for myself. i went on ebay and ordered one of those chips. when it came to my house i noticed it was only a resistor which you can buy at radio shack for only $ .10 cents. it is definitly a hoax do not buy and do not install. it dosnt give you more hoarsepower and it will ruin your car.
oh yea GET YOUR MONEY BACK!