HOW TO: Scratchbuild Headers

Ok, I previously asked about building headers. I planned to use brass rods, I was told were very hard to bend (B.S., I bent one to do a 180 at my LHS, unfortunately I had to buy it, oh well 35cents wouldn't kill me.) Anyhow, here's a quick how-to. Keep in mind this was my first attempt to build a header, and I say with a lil cleanup, primer and paint and it'll be real nice.
TOOLS:
Normal pliers, miniature channel lock's, descent knife, wire cutter (heavy duty suggested, 12 gauge, 20amp wire (found in the walls of most suburban homes, superglue, and alota patience.
- STEP1: Layout all your needs (tools and such.)
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_11_full.jpg
- STEP2: Pick a header design (I picked this, but uhh I couldn't do it).
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_12_full.jpg
- STEP3: Using your pliers, bend the tip of the wire that'll glue to the head, then measure (I used my eye, I'm good like that) to see where you need a bend for the leg pipes.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_13_full.jpg
- STEP4: Eye it up, see if it looks half-assed right, if not, you can fix it. (Don't follow the following steps, if you aren't planning for leg pipes.)
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_14_full.jpg
- STEP5: Using a combo of your pliers and channel locks, make the follwoing bends according to the pic, and eye it up with the header, remeber, if it's off, don't start over, bend it back and do it again.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_15_full.jpg
- STEP6: Using what you know, make the same bends for the next pipe, you’ll need to make this one with a bit less lean to it. Eye it up, if it all looks right continue, if not bend where it’s wrong and do it again.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_16_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_17_full.jpg
- STEP7: If the pipes for cylinder 2 and 4 look good, use superglue to glue the two pipes together as seen in the above pic. Once that has dried well enough, begin construction for cylinder 6, make the same pipes (NOTE: I started from the leg pipe extension bends and followed my way up for cylinders 6 and 8, because the pipe needs to be a lil shorter from the extension to the head, seeing as the bends will sit atop those of cylinder 2 and 4’s pipes.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_18_full.jpg
After the glue is holding it decently, channel lock the pipes together, these pics show how.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_19_full.jpg
Channel lock holding pipes for cylinders 2, 4, and 6.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_20_full.jpg
Front side view.^ Back side view \/.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_21_full.jpg
- STEP8: Now, we can begin the bends for cylinder 8. First, I started at the leg pipe extension, and bent my way in, okay. The first bend after those for the extensions was to point a lil at the motor and then come back out a lil bit and then angle it’s way up to the head. If it looks okay, and everything seems eyed up just right, then glue it on, I’ve included this graph to show how the pipes should be arranged if you decide to do the leg pipe extensions.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_22_full.jpg
If it looks descent enough, it’s time to channel lock the three glued together pipes and then apply superglue and set the pipe for cylinder 8 in place and eye it up.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_23_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_24_full.jpg
- STEP9: After bending of the pipes to get them even, and some trimming to fit the head, it should look like this.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_25_full.jpg
And this:
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_26_full.jpg
NOTE: The header looks nasty, because it needs to be cleaned up, use the knife to remove excess glue, apply 60 grit paper to remove dent’s or glue that won’t come off, finish with 240 grit apply primer and paint.
- STEP10: Use some putty to smooth out in between the pipes if you can’t get the glue all out. Apply first coat of primer. Should look like this
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_27_full.jpg
- STEP11: Add a collector. I used a ovular type muffler and superglued it on.
- STEP12: Acquire ¼ inch heat shrink, I put it over the collector and the header pipes up to the first bend.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_28_full.jpg
- STEP13: Cut the heat shrink to length letting a little go over the collector.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_29_full.jpg
- STEP14: Using the heir-drier shrink the heat shrink over the header and collector.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_30_full.jpg
- STEP15: Get 3/16 inch aluminum tube, and cut to length for leg pipes.
- STEP16: Using a dremel and cutting blade, cut the 45degree tip.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_31_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_32_full.jpg
- STEP17: Apply superglue directly onto the collector OR a muffler of your choice, be sure to glue the muffler to the tube first and then to the collector. It should look like this.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_34_full.jpg
- STEP18: After a night of drying, put a coat of primer, and then some descent aluminum paint, or color of your choice.PRIMED:
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_35_full.jpg
PAINTED:
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_36_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_37_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449738_38_full.jpg
Now, you’ve got a nice BBM (Built By Me) header and leg pipe to show off to the world. If you have or think you can successfully build this, then you can apply your methods to make your own wacky crazy headers to fit just about anything. BTW, would any mod mind moving this into the HOW TO: section, thanks.

*edit*
credit to Malcolm for the reformatting.

Great How-to!
I'm sure I'll use it on my next project :D

Ahhh great, good how too, now that you can see it :), this should come in handy soon

nicely done

Nice work. Impressive results from rather humble parts. I've been trying to use a similar method (except using solder) to make a equal-length-runner exhaust manifold for a turbo set up. Thanks for the how-to.

thanks for that SR5!! plenty of good pics :D

It couldn't have been possible without Malcom for fixing the pics for me. Thanks a bunch man. And thanks for the comments, I'm surprised myself at how good it came out. Hope in the end this helps everyone, even if your making a manifold for a turbo.

If you want to make bending the tube a little easier, you can heat it with a blowtorch/candle/butane pocket torch/etc. until it turns cherry red. This applies to copper, but it works well with brass, too (except that brass will not turn red, it turns really light colored... if it turns yellow or orange, it will give you a serious burn!) After you heat it up, let it cool on its own over a period of at least a minute, or until you can handle it without burning yourself. This is called annealing. If you dunk it in water to cool it off, it will become even harder to bend and may break if bent. To speed things up a bit, you can heat up several tubes at once... the copper with remain flexible for quite a while. And the best part is, bending and working with the annealed copper makes it harden for long-lasting forms! My last piece of advice deals with painting the tubes. Using fine sandpaper or emory cloth, scuff the entire suface of the tubes and clean them with a cotton ball dipped in laquer thinner before gluing or painting. Only use the laquer thinner away from heat! This scuffing and cleaning will make the copper much more accepting of glues and paints.

Good luck!

Looks very nice dude. Great work. I might have to try this sometime.

If you want to make bending the tube a little easier, you can heat it with a blowtorch/candle/butane pocket torch/etc. until it turns cherry red. This applies to copper, but it works well with brass, too (except that brass will not turn red, it turns really light colored... if it turns yellow or orange, it will give you a serious burn!) After you heat it up, let it cool on its own over a period of at least a minute, or until you can handle it without burning yourself. This is called annealing. If you dunk it in water to cool it off, it will become even harder to bend and may break if bent. To speed things up a bit, you can heat up several tubes at once... the copper with remain flexible for quite a while. And the best part is, bending and working with the annealed copper makes it harden for long-lasting forms! My last piece of advice deals with painting the tubes. Using fine sandpaper or emory cloth, scuff the entire suface of the tubes and clean them with a cotton ball dipped in laquer thinner before gluing or painting. Only use the laquer thinner away from heat! This scuffing and cleaning will make the copper much more accepting of glues and paints.

Good luck!
I appreciate that you posted that, but my hands, even Eugene's wimpy hands are more than capable of bending 20amp wire that has been unsheithed. Superglue, heatshrink and whatnot's seem to work the best for this if I say so.

Hehe...yeah...I thought you were using copper tubing. That stuff is notorious for breaking or kinking... Didn't mean to offend anyone. :)

I don't believe anyone was offended, except I kinda was. I specifically stated the tools and things that you need, but you mighta just overlooked it, no big deal.

the pictures does not work any more.

http://modeltech.tripod.com/sldrhdrs.htm

http://modeltech.tripod.com/headers2.htm

the header u were replicating goes to the revell 66 chevelle hiboy correct?

It goes to the 66' Malibu SS from Revell with the hoodscoop and flip nose

good stuff, wish i saw this before i made mine out of the parts tree.