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Aurora Engine stalling


Chuckk1
11-06-2003, 01:39 PM
I've had this problem for over a year now. My '98 Aurora stalls at full stop. It always re-starts instantly and without hesitation. The stall comes very quickly, almost like a fuel cut-off situation. Sometimes it will catch and then 'surge' a bit. I've gotten in the habit of shifting to neutral when coming to a stop. I posted this problem on another site and the general consensus was the fuel pressure regulator. I changed that myself but it didn;t work. I took it to a dealer who, after charging me $280 to change the neutral safetly switch, cleaned the throttle body which seemed to clear it up but only for awhile. Anyone else have the stalling problem?

Indy8
11-06-2003, 05:14 PM
Only at full operating temperature or when cold too? Only in drive? Try idle learn procedure and see if that helps.

mike98c
11-06-2003, 09:21 PM
I've had this problem for over a year now. My '98 Aurora stalls at full stop. It always re-starts instantly and without hesitation. The stall comes very quickly, almost like a fuel cut-off situation. Sometimes it will catch and then 'surge' a bit. I've gotten in the habit of shifting to neutral when coming to a stop. I posted this problem on another site and the general consensus was the fuel pressure regulator. I changed that myself but it didn;t work. I took it to a dealer who, after charging me $280 to change the neutral safetly switch, cleaned the throttle body which seemed to clear it up but only for awhile. Anyone else have the stalling problem?
It was a G.M. direct replacement FPR I hope.

Chuckk1
11-07-2003, 07:09 PM
Only at full operating temperature or when cold too? Only in drive? Try idle learn procedure and see if that helps.

Usually when cold, but it will do it at op temp too. and today, it even shuddered AFTER I had put it in neutral. How do you do a "Learn idle", or did you mean "Lean"?

Indy8
11-07-2003, 08:25 PM
Idle learn is just a reset of your idle speed for the ECM. Turn key all the way "on"(not start), wait 30 seconds, turn to "off", wait 30 seconds, remove key.

Chuckk1
11-08-2003, 11:28 AM
She idles very smoothly at 700 rpm, so I don't think it's the ECM. The FPR was a direct GM replacement (cost me $60 at the dealer). The stalling feels almost like a momentary huge load being put on the engine. The interior lights don't dim when it happens so I don't think it's electrical. The "dip" in power only lasts less than a second. The engine either stalls dead or recovers and surges up to about 1100 rpm for a few seconds, then slowly returns to 700 rpm. I've been to 3 shops (2 GM dealers) with this, and noone knows the answer.

Indy8
11-08-2003, 07:10 PM
Internal combustion requires air, fuel, spark. Something is interrupting the flow of one of the three. A new FPR doesn't mean you have good, consistent fuel pressure from the pump, so check that. However, in these non-obvious situations, it's almost always ignition(engine management) related.

dsatt12
11-10-2003, 01:43 AM
Sounds about like the symptoms I had when my egr valve was sticking all the way open. It'd run fine on the highway (when the egr valve should be full open), but in town all the exhaust gases would mess up the fuel air mix. I had to apply gas to keep it idling when it was stuck- maybe half the time.

I read on another forum that you can clean them with throttle body cleaner as long as you don't hold it so the fluid runs into the electronic module on the top of the thing.

I of course only read that AFTER having a mechanic replace mine. He also cleaned out the passages to/from the egr valve and the throttle body in general. It's been running great for the last 70,000 miles. I think I paid $200 for a new one from the dealer. I don't know if there are any aftermarket ones available.

Chuckk1
11-10-2003, 03:58 PM
dstatt12, your analysis makes the most sense and is probably closer than anyone else has gotten to figuring out this stalling problem. But, wouldn't that EGR valve sticking throw a trouble code and/or cause the "Service Engine Soon" light to come on?

Indy8
11-10-2003, 04:43 PM
It should. 90% of the built in diagnostics are for emission related components. If it's happening often, a shop(tech) should see it stall. For them to say they could not find the problem is BS. They either don't want to, don't care, or just plain lazy.

dsatt12
11-10-2003, 05:32 PM
I'm pretty sure that it did cause the SES light to come on. Of course that was a few years ago...

mike98c
11-10-2003, 10:57 PM
Sounds about like the symptoms I had when my egr valve was sticking all the way open. It'd run fine on the highway (when the egr valve should be full open), but in town all the exhaust gases would mess up the fuel air mix. I had to apply gas to keep it idling when it was stuck- maybe half the time.

I read on another forum that you can clean them with throttle body cleaner as long as you don't hold it so the fluid runs into the electronic module on the top of the thing.

I of course only read that AFTER having a mechanic replace mine. He also cleaned out the passages to/from the egr valve and the throttle body in general. It's been running great for the last 70,000 miles. I think I paid $200 for a new one from the dealer. I don't know if there are any aftermarket ones available.
NAPA has OEM part but sometimes you save money with them and sometimes you don't.

RorthStar
11-28-2003, 06:13 AM
My SES light never came on when my valve was sticking...I thought it was kinda strange...

RickyZ
12-17-2003, 07:23 AM
Chuck......I am having the same stalling problem on my 1997 Aurora. I don't see here on this forum that the cause was identified and remedied. Did you find and fix the problem? I too have had the vehicle at Olds multiple times and they have no clue....Planning to take it again next week unless find solution here....Please reply....

RickyZ
12-17-2003, 07:58 AM
Indy8.......I too have stalling problems on my 97 Aurora while stopped and in drive. I don't know if Chuck resolved the problem and was hoping you may have some insight. It is driving me crazy and Olds has no clue what to do...thanks..

bustedratchet
12-17-2003, 09:28 AM
I'd go along with dsatt. I've seen chunks of carbon hold these things open and they will idle like crap and then stall. Pop it off and clean it with some carb/choke cleaner see what happens.

Auror_AH
12-17-2003, 01:32 PM
I've had the same problem with my 1995 I just bought. Mine kicks out at a dead stop and I noticed when I was playing with the tilt steering. Although my room mate doesn't recall even touching the steering column and the car stalled. So I don't know but I hope it's an easy fix. I love this car :o) This is also my first post on the board so it's nice to meet all of you......

Amanda
95' Aurora
White on Black
Auror_AH@hotmail.com

Indy8
12-18-2003, 02:05 AM
Dealers service operations make their money by replacing parts. Quickie diagnosis followed by some ridiculous quote, they change out the part, take your cash. Actually finding the solution to a problem and fixing it slows down their money making machine. Tuning problems always get blown off because they can take hours to solve and it's harder for them to justify a huge repair bill to the customer, it just ties up one of their bays. Internal combustion engines, no matter how high-tech, will never be perfect. I've never had a problem with my running condition or idle. My advice is to find a GOOD independent shop who would be willing to spend some time at labor rate to find your problem.

kentuckyjoe
12-18-2003, 08:42 AM
My 97 will stall when it is warm and usually rolling to a stop, if it doesn’t die, the lights will dim.
Add that to my list.
I am very disappointed in this car

RickyZ
12-18-2003, 08:58 AM
Joe....u on-line? I'm wondering about your problem. I have same

Indy8
12-19-2003, 01:59 AM
My 97 will stall when it is warm and usually rolling to a stop, if it doesn’t die, the lights will dim.
Add that to my list.
I am very disappointed in this car
I thought I got a pretty good deal when I bought mine(wholesale), now I owe three grand more than it's worth and I would love to dump it. I have a 1984 Celica that is way more reliable.

sf4013
01-07-2004, 06:53 PM
Have a 1998 Aurora. just started dying at idle. It runs fine till it just "stops". No shudder, not rough just like you pulled the plug. Dealer has us driving around with a computer code reader in the car. They have tried many things so far to no avail.
Help

RickyZ
01-09-2004, 06:55 AM
I've had the stalling problem now for 8 months. I tried everything. Yesterday I had the computer changed out as the dealer said that was the most probable cause. Seemed like it worked until today when it stalled 3 times! The computer changeout did not solve the problem but made the frequency of stalling less. It must be trying to control something that is marginal operation. Anyone have more thoughts? This has been a real headache for me. My Mrs. won't drive the car anymore because of this. The dealer has no idea any more!

97 silverbullet
01-09-2004, 09:02 PM
I think I know what the problem is. Im all the way up in Illinios and my car stalls and does it again and again, so I can't drive all the way home like this ( i live in md) so I decided to figure out the problem, it ends up that the intake manifold or (plenum) was bad. on the other side of the throttle bottle there is a valve that keeps the car from backfiring. well anyway theres a seal that goes bad, and that causes the stalling out. now when the car is hot its fine cause the seal expands but since the weather has been like 8 degrees most of the time the seal contracts so therefore that leak in the seal causes the problem, no you can't just replace the seal you have to replace the big black thing under you silver cover on the engine, that part costs $422 yeah it sucks big time, but no stalling and I should have another 150k miles left on it, so I hope that helps all of ya out. it only took a couple of hours.

Auror_AH
01-12-2004, 09:33 AM
Hey Thanks Silver, that was something i would have never considered, I'll have to check that out... I'll let you know how i turn out. Thanks again.

Bill V
01-12-2004, 11:27 PM
I think I know what the problem is. Im all the way up in Illinios and my car stalls and does it again and again, so I can't drive all the way home like this ( i live in md) so I decided to figure out the problem, it ends up that the intake manifold or (plenum) was bad. on the other side of the throttle bottle there is a valve that keeps the car from backfiring. well anyway theres a seal that goes bad, and that causes the stalling out. now when the car is hot its fine cause the seal expands but since the weather has been like 8 degrees most of the time the seal contracts so therefore that leak in the seal causes the problem, no you can't just replace the seal you have to replace the big black thing under you silver cover on the engine, that part costs $422 yeah it sucks big time, but no stalling and I should have another 150k miles left on it, so I hope that helps all of ya out. it only took a couple of hours.

If you're talking about the backfire pressure relief valve at the end of the intake plenum, it IS serviceable. I've run into a few of these that had deteriorated seals (causing a vac leak). The valve twists out. You need to move the power steering pump for access...

tdf27
01-12-2004, 11:37 PM
For what its worth, my '96 was occasionally stalling at stop or rolling to stop with no warning. A bad plug & wire was found & replaced. The problem has not occurred since.

RickyZ
01-13-2004, 09:28 AM
I think I know what the problem is. Im all the way up in Illinios and my car stalls and does it again and again, so I can't drive all the way home like this ( i live in md) so I decided to figure out the problem, it ends up that the intake manifold or (plenum) was bad. on the other side of the throttle bottle there is a valve that keeps the car from backfiring. well anyway theres a seal that goes bad, and that causes the stalling out. now when the car is hot its fine cause the seal expands but since the weather has been like 8 degrees most of the time the seal contracts so therefore that leak in the seal causes the problem, no you can't just replace the seal you have to replace the big black thing under you silver cover on the engine, that part costs $422 yeah it sucks big time, but no stalling and I should have another 150k miles left on it, so I hope that helps all of ya out. it only took a couple of hours.


My staling problem continues. Olds spent hours trying to find out why and failed to. We even checked this gasket you spoke of. They said it seems fine, EGR fine, throttle body fine, all parameters fine...then why the heck does the car stall???? I'm at my wits end!

Indy8
01-13-2004, 01:46 PM
Generally speaking, the car is overpriced American engineered crap. I own one also......and wish I didn't.

dsatt12
01-15-2004, 11:47 PM
Generally speaking, the car is overpriced American engineered crap.

Hey now, as an American engineer I should resent that. Then again I am sitting at work looking through this forum for hours on end. Hmmmm....

Auror_AH
01-16-2004, 09:44 AM
Well I really thought my stalling problem had gone away. Although recently I found if I go over a large bump or railroad tracks the car stalls out. The service engine light comes on as the car dies out and then thats that. I have no problem restarting the car and everything is normal again. Also this only seems to happen the first maybe 10 minutes in the car or however long it takes to warm up. Once the temp gauge is sitting at about 180-200 it rides beautifully with no problems(except that lingering idle problem...)

pfflyer46
01-16-2004, 10:33 AM
I had the post about stalling at 70mph but now it stalls out at any speed. Will restart after letting it set for a couple of minutes but only to stall again a short distance down the road. The mech. drove it around for 4hrs before he could get it to stall and then the code he got was related to no ignition signal. This problem just started, car only has 80k on it. This is truly frustrating

RickyZ
01-19-2004, 09:49 AM
I disconnected the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). RPM's only increased slightly but stalling went away completely! Removed valve (very easy) and cleaned it and passages (as far as I could get). Was extremely carbonized. Re-installed and re-connected. Car still stalled. Disconnected and ran fine. Looking into replacing the IAC valve. $97 at Olds but best price I've found is $63 with free shipping.

RickyZ
01-22-2004, 07:07 AM
I disconnected the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). RPM's only increased slightly but stalling went away completely! Removed valve (very easy) and cleaned it and passages (as far as I could get). Was extremely carbonized. Re-installed and re-connected. Car still stalled. Disconnected and ran fine. Looking into replacing the IAC valve. $97 at Olds but best price I've found is $63 with free shipping.


Well forget what I just said! It still stalls with the IAC valve removed but not as often. Also, the stalls are more severe. Disconnected, it stalls without any warning. Connected, the IAC valve tries to recover the stall so there is a warning. ANYONE have any thoughts??

mike98c
01-22-2004, 09:48 PM
Well not all problems with stalling are caused by a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) BUT it IS the numberone cause of the car dying suddenly at idle, and if it gets bad enough the car will be hard to sart when it's been run, warmed up and then sits for a couple of hours. It may also backfire occasionally. FPR is easy to diagnose. Pull hose off the little oil can connected to the fuel rail underneath the engines beauty cover after the car has sat for just a little while and if you see or smell any fuel the diaphram inside is bad. Start the car with the hose pointed away and if it's in really bad shape you'll see fuel drip out.
This is an easy fix if this is the problem for some of you. Ten minutes to replace part, between sixty and seventyfive dollars for the little FPR. A lot of dealers will charge you one hundred fifty dollars or more for this repair assuming they even diagnose it immediatly before they throw parts at the car,

mike98c
01-24-2004, 02:46 AM
One other thought. You can get the codes scanned for free at Autozone. If EGR shows up, don't buy a new one until you try cleaning the old valve. If you canm free up the shaft and clean out the passages the valve will usually work fine. Just don't get solvent into the motor (can) on top of the valve.

Rachee150
01-25-2004, 01:25 AM
my car had the same prob...i took it to the shop 2 times...and they couldnt figure it out the first time, so i brought it back again and they ended up needing to put a new computer in my car. Its had the new computer for a couple months and hasnt stalled since.

pas30339
02-22-2004, 10:34 AM
This describes exactly my problem. I'm going to replace my FPR and report the results for future users as well.

sf4013
03-11-2004, 12:16 PM
MY dealer after trying several things changed my spark plug wires. They said they were arching. Admittedly a small shop changed them a year ago. Car hasn't stalled in days.
Believe it or not the delear didn't charge for the wires or labor.!! They really were great.
Hope this helps.

discouraged
03-11-2004, 12:54 PM
I have a '95 that had the identical stalling problems. Was solved by replacing all 8 injectors and pressure regulator and major tune-up including new PCV valve. (Costly -$2100).

pas30339
03-12-2004, 06:06 PM
My mecahnic said my FPR was staying slightly open due to some foreign matter. He cleaned it out and there has been a noticible improvement in performance. Unfortunately no resolution of my stalling issue.

I notice the stalling most when the car downshifts from second to first while making a turn. Also, the long crank for statup after the car is warmed up persist.

One note: my mechanic did tell me that replacing the FPR was not recommended as the entire fuel-rai & FPR are a single assembly. Well, I had the fuel rail replaced 40,000 miles ago...to a tune of $1300.00. Suffice it to say I'll be replacing the FPR before the fuel rail, assembly or not.

I hate driving a car that I feel at any moment will croak!

Chuckk1
04-30-2007, 06:37 PM
THE STALLING HAS STOPPED!!! After replacing the second ignition module (first one went 4 years ago), the stalls are no more. I'm guessing there was an intermittent / short in the bad module. Two more modules to go (at $450 each) - if she lasts that long. 127,000 miles to date.

BNaylor
05-01-2007, 11:17 AM
THE STALLING HAS STOPPED!!! After replacing the second ignition module (first one went 4 years ago), the stalls are no more. I'm guessing there was an intermittent / short in the bad module. Two more modules to go (at $450 each) - if she lasts that long. 127,000 miles to date.

Thanks for posting the update. However, since this is an old thread and the issue appears to have been resolved time to lay this to rest. Thread closed.

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