Halfway through engine swap -- can I roll the car?

I need to replace my F22B1 in my 95 Accord EX. I'd rather not pay someone else to do it if I can do it myself. I'm pretty sure I can at least get the old engine out.

So, the question is...

If I get the engine out and decide I need to pay someone to put a new one in, can I put the wheels on and roll it out of the garage to be towed? I haven't looked at the way the drive axles connect to what down there yet. Are the hubs still stable and operational?

Another question...

I guess I'm going to have to be going through the hood and getting under the car over and over. So what is the best way to prop up the car? Where should I put the jack stands? I know of the jack points on the car, but if I use them to jack the car, I don't have room to put a stand at that point. I could use ramps for the front tires, but don't I have to remove the wheels to do some work? And once I start, I won't have the power to get the car up on the ramps again if I need to take it off of them.

In order to get the motor out, you'll be disassembling a better part of the bottom suspension, but it really is quite easy and straight forward, you won't have any problems. Just go for it man :)

- Nathan

Where should I put the jack stands? I know of the jack points on the car, but if I use them to jack the car, I don't have room to put a stand at that point.

That always hassled me in the past. I want to jack my car up to, say, change my oil. But to do so, I need the front jackpoints for my jacks. Then where would I put the stands?- There just isn't quite enough room for both of them to share the jack point. What I've ended up doing (and it probably isn't the BEST thing, but it works for me) is just setting the jack up a little behind the actual point, right in line with it. I can't jack the car up as high as were I to use the actual points, but it does the job. I make sure to setup the jack stands as quickly as possible under the true point, to avoid putting any more strain on my improvised point (even though it feels pretty secure.) The only side-effect I've seen is a slight indentation on the bottom of the side skirt where the jack makes contact (which isn't even noticeable unless you're looking for it.)

That always hassled me in the past. I want to jack my car up to, say, change my oil. But to do so, I need the front jackpoints for my jacks. Then where would I put the stands?- There just isn't quite enough room for both of them to share the jack point. What I've ended up doing (and it probably isn't the BEST thing, but it works for me) is just setting the jack up a little behind the actual point, right in line with it. I can't jack the car up as high as were I to use the actual points, but it does the job. I make sure to setup the jack stands as quickly as possible under the true point, to avoid putting any more strain on my improvised point (even though it feels pretty secure.) The only side-effect I've seen is a slight indentation on the bottom of the side skirt where the jack makes contact (which isn't even noticeable unless you're looking for it.)

Your fine doing that or you can use the center tow hooks underneath the car, front and back. The fornt you can use the cross member as well. You can really put a jack anywhere there is frame rail..

Do the swap yourself!!! Don't pay to do it, it is not hard...

Peace
~J

I've heard that rolling a front wheel drive car without the axels installed inside the hubs will ruin the wheel bearings. The axels provide significant structure to the bearing and the bearings aren't designed to carry the load without axels. If the weight of the engine and transaxel is out, you might be ok rolling it around.

Thanks.

the car will be fine as long as you arent planning on towing it at high speeds or for a very long distance. the bearings arent going to get damaged by just pushing the car around the yard or garage without the engine.