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Painting model car bodies! Full instructions! (Yes, you have to use primer!)


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Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:00 PM
I always start with body on any model, as the time spent primering and drying can be spent assembling the rest of the kit.

So to spray a solid colour I do the following...

The body has the mold lines removed with a set of needle pliers, before finishing the whole body with a rub down using 800 grade wet and dry paper. Just enough to remove any scratch marks and give the primer something to key into.
Make sure you file the mold lines off whilst having a picture of the car near by! You don't want to remove what ends up being a panel line!
Wash with soapy water and a new toothbrush (Buy it yourself and don't pinch anyone elses!!!)
Rinse and leave to air dry where it won't get dusty or bitty.

Now, purchase some acrylic based Automotive primer, plastic primer is even better.
Grey for darker colours, white if it is red, yellow or white as they are translucent and show what's beneath.
If you live in the UK watch Halfords primer as it doesn't like base coats over the top, it cracks!

Our Subaru here is going to be white, so for this Halfords acrylic primer was fine.

Give the body three coats of primer, the first one being light, and then leave to harden for 24 hours.
Check your filing was done well and that no finishing needs doing.
If so, have another go to remove any imperfections and add primer to that area 24 hours later.

Primer MUST harden for 24 hours to avoid shrinkage.

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:01 PM
If you have done all that, and are getting itchy fingers, after a few hours you can scrape the primer out of the shut lines on the doors and bonnet etc. as we will be filling them with black paint on lighter cars to make them more prominent.
Do it carefully though, one slip and you have to get the sand paper out again! :mad:

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:04 PM
There are 2 ways of spraying the body, depending on time. I usually start the body and all it's parts first when I make a kit, as it will take the longest time of any part with all the preparation and the drying time.
Because of this, I can take the best approach which is:

Ready the body, clean it again if you need to, but wait a good few hours after to let the primer dry out.
Shake your chosen colour for the full 2 minutes, and then, having blu-tacked the body to something appropriate as a stand, and holding the body at a forearms length away, start spraying a light coat, never stop moving the can over the model. Also, start the spraying action off the model in case of any initial spitting or the wrong colour being picked up! (It has happened to me!)

Give the body about 10 mins drying time, and do it again, though slightly heavier now. You want to constantly have the panel you are spraying catching the light, so you can see how much is going on. You want to lay just enough on so that it has a slight orange peel look, as that will dry smooth. If it shines and looks runny, too much!!!

If you have time, leave it at 2 coats, let dry for 24 hours, smooth off the paint with a light going over of 1200 wet and dry in a bowl of soapy water, and then apply another 2 coats after the body has air dried!

If you can't be bothered with that, apply 1 more, maybe 2 more coats, if you have been light, straight on top of the others. This will mean more work with the polish, but no problems.

Now leave this alone for a full 24 hours, and carry on with the rest of the kit!

If you catch a piece of dust or a spec in the paint, stop at that coat, let dry for 24 hours and then rub the offending bit out with some wet and dry and apply the other coats.

You must let primer dry. If not, though it may look ready, the paint bubbles as the air in the primer escapes! Major balls up time if that happens! Allow at least an hour for it to air dry after washing in water.

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:05 PM
The body has now been given 2 coats of paint. This is shrinking now, and settling in, so looks quite dull. Tomorrow I shall sand it lightly with some 1200 and soapy water, and it will be ready for another 2 coats, the final 2.
After that it is a case of leaving it for a week whilst the rest of the kit is done, and then it is given a good cutting back and polish.
The longer you wait for this, the better the results, as the paint hardens and stays sharper as all the shrinkage is complete.

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:07 PM
The final 2 coats of paint were put on the body today, and that will be left for a week now to settle in, before the fun part, the cutting and polishing begins!
Due to the sanding between coats the paint will be quite thin, so I will have to be cautious with this one!

The black was sprayed round the windows, using the mask supplied.
You really should spray this, the mask is likely to leak if you brush paint it as capilary action will pull thin paint in!

And progress on the chassis.

I masked the front section off and sprayed it semi gloss black, but I decided the rear suspension was too complex to mask, so this will be brush painted.
The exhaust was masked and sprayed up to the point you see, but the rest will also be brush painted, and detail/weathering added.
I used that superb chrome paint I have to do the rear exhaust box, and it looks great!

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:08 PM
The interior was all sprayed today, using the airbrush shown and Tamiya paints.
It has been done using XF-8 and three mixes of XF-63, as per the instructions.
Test fitting some of the parts of the body has revealed the paint is quite thick, and so I think some filing will need to be done to get the lights etc. to fit into their holes, and I want to do this before I polish it incase it chips some of the paint off!
No problems otherwise, just a lot of patience needed for all the masking today!
I shall now get on with hand painting the rear suspension, and it is ready for the brakes and wheels tomorrow...

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:09 PM
I'll give my views on the whole kit when I have finished it, but it isn't the molded seat that's the problem, it is the molded suspension on the chassis!
I decided to brush paint it, but I hate doing that and it looks crap!
I am going to put the second coat on with the airbrush, so it comes out much smoother!
In trying to cut down assembly time, all they have done is increased painting time for the REAL modellers!

I will be happy doing a normal kit again, with nice, spray painted suspension!!! Plus that way I can lower a car if I want. With the Subaru I am buggered!!!

The air vents have a chrome ring round them, but I did that using BMW silver, not my chrome.
But the brake rotors are that chrome spray, and spot on they are too!

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:14 PM
OK, a full week has passed and it is time to cut back the paint on the body!

You need:

An old white, cotton T-shirt
Cutting compound! Made by Tamiya, T-Cut, Auto Glym paint restorer, anything like that!

Putting a little paste on the cloth, work away at the surface of the paint, rubbing, checking, rubbing, checking, until the orange peel effect has been replaced with a smooth, shiny surface.
Go in cirlces or back and foth, up to you! Also, doing it with the cloth wet will make it shinier and smoother if you need it!

DO NOT KEEP RUBBING BACK TO PRIMER OR PLASTIC!!!

You will do it, I promise you! But it is all about learning! Only you can learn how much is too much!

Use cotton buds for tight spaces or grooves!

When you are statisfied with the results, you can polish it with normal car wax and polish, or modelling wax like that made by Tamiya.

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:16 PM
I have taken a few shots, one of the interior, showing the little details such as hazards light switches, and the catching two tone interior, sprayed using an airbrush and Tamiya tape for masking.
All straight forward, and you get a lovely etched surround for the gearstick gate!

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:17 PM
And this is how I do my black lining!

First clean out the door gaps with the back of a scalpel, carefully!

A very washy Tamiya gloss black is made, and using a thin brush, a large blob of the runny stuff is placed at the middle of a door shut, and immediatley you see it run up and down the door gap! Add more thinners if it stops, further down if you have to, then leave to dry!

You get little marks where the brush was dabbed, and when dry, these are lightly polished of with cutting paste or polish!

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:18 PM
Excellent! I have at this very moment just finished it!!!

Here is the final result...

I must admit, I enjoyed today, everything went smoothly and it was the fun bit, those final touches!

The car is wearing a set of the latest British number plates! I don't fully understand them yet, but I know what you see is possible with the new layout!

Colour? That was an easy one! For a start I have GT3 on the PS2, and this is the colour I thought suited the WRX best in that game! Plus I loved the pink STI stickers on the front lamp covers, as they are black if you go for a blue colour! It gives it that real 'Nintendo' look in pink!

The chrome WRX sticker on the back was a lovely touch, I hope Tamiya include details like that in all their kits now!
It also had a chrome gear lever gate, interior mirror and external mirrors.

I did the model as the British WRX STI should appear next year, with clear windows all round (We don't go for this tinted rear quarter look!) and no rear wiper (Don't know why not, but just not!)

I hope you enjoy the photos. This one is to show just how shiny you can get that paint!

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:20 PM
Another shot outdoors!

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:21 PM
This one shows just how sharp the black lining on the doors comes out with that method.

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:27 PM
For metallic colours, most of the technique is the same, except you will add about 3 coats of lacquer over the top of the base metalic colour (which should look dull!)
This can done 24 hours after the basecoat colour is applied.
Then you polish the lacquer the same as you do a solid colour, i.e after a week of drying time.

Do not add lacquer to solid colours, there really is no point!

Guiddy
12-06-2001, 04:29 PM
When the model is all complete, just polish once more to get rid of the fingerprints and marks, and stand back and enjoy!

PM or email me if you have any questions! We are all here to help!:D

datsun510dude
12-10-2001, 11:32 PM
So the secret to that show winning shine is cutting paste or polish or whatever its called? hehe. That looks sweet! I need ot get some cutting paste stuff now.

Josh

turbos86
12-11-2001, 04:40 PM
Will the model still look like a real car if I don't wax it after polishing??

Guiddy
12-11-2001, 06:10 PM
Originally posted by turbos86
Will the model still look like a real car if I don't wax it after polishing??

To be honest, you don't want too deep a shine on a rally car anyway! It wouldn't look real! They are made to be abused!
Polish the hell out of road cars though, you notice a good shine on them!:D

mediamixhobby
12-21-2001, 12:22 AM
How about the windscreen? Do you spray with clear gloss and polish? Or just polish?

Guiddy
12-21-2001, 02:36 AM
Originally posted by mediamixhobby
How about the windscreen? Do you spray with clear gloss and polish? Or just polish?

I don't touch it! I just wash it before fitting and then make sure I handle it as little as possible and give it a final clean after fitting!

YellowMaranello
12-21-2001, 04:53 PM
Why did you have to show it on that car?:)

CRX_SOON
12-24-2001, 10:47 PM
Ok so with my porsche since i am doing a different color than the primer. Whats the basic # of coats of eat?
3 coats white primer
and then at 3 coats of body color??
also i can't find cutting paste what the hell is it??

4x4 Cactus
12-26-2001, 05:45 AM
Goooddy this tips will help......:)

Guiddy
12-27-2001, 11:26 AM
Originally posted by CRX_SOON
Ok so with my porsche since i am doing a different color than the primer. Whats the basic # of coats of eat?
3 coats white primer
and then at 3 coats of body color??
also i can't find cutting paste what the hell is it??

T-Cut, colour restorer! Even toothpaste works!:D

You are right with the coats of primer. Make then thin coats though!

CRX_SOON
12-27-2001, 11:51 AM
ok so whats the pupose of cutting paste? is it like a polish or somthing?? I know i can order it off the net and i don't want my model smelling like crest!! ;)

Guiddy
12-27-2001, 12:33 PM
It is a mild abrasive! All it does is smooth the surface of the paint!

Try various companies until you find one you like!
I really find it hard to believe you guys find it hard to get! Any small car accessory shop will stock it!

XenoKryst
12-29-2001, 11:14 AM
Hey,

I got a question. If I do a car such as the Tom's Castrol Supra that has so much decals, I have to prime it a few coats right? So could I leave the primer's colour(white)? and what next? A clear coat for shine?

But where do the decals come in? After priming, do I add a coat of clear coat then apply decals and apply yet a few more clear coats?? Is that how it is or do the decals just stay on the top layer?

I find that some sprays, due to toxins, could burn or severely damage the decals. So I wanted to know...

---Thanks:confused:

Guiddy
12-29-2001, 01:22 PM
No, always spray over the primer with a colour, i.e Ford Diamond white for a crisp white, Peugeot Alpine white for a bluey white, or Toyota White for a creamy white!
White Primer is almost a piercing white, therefore not realistic at all!

Then you can put the decals over the white paint, and then the lacquer over the decals.
After trying both methods, I have decided lacquering the decals is best as it seals and protects them. Go light with the first coats of lacquer though, it will damage the decal. You just have to hope it settles well as it dries. But then add a good few coats. You don't want to rub through.
Incidently, you black line the doors BEFORE lacquer, as you will find the door gaps soon disappear with a few coats of the clear stuff!

XenoKryst
12-29-2001, 02:32 PM
Lacquer? You mean the kind for nails? Like nail polish right?

but nail Lacquer. Or is there some kind of Tamiya brand?:rolleyes:

Guiddy
12-31-2001, 02:01 PM
Originally posted by XenoKryst
Lacquer? You mean the kind for nails? Like nail polish right?



Why would I use nail polish? Why would I know anything about nail polish! Why do you know anything about nail polish?
Why do I even have to answer such a question!!!:rolleyes: :p

turbos86
12-31-2001, 08:38 PM
Originally posted by Guiddy


Why would I use nail polish? Why would I know anything about nail polish! Why do you know anything about nail polish?
Why do I even have to answer such a question!!!:rolleyes: :p

How about Tamiya TS-13? will it do the job?

Guiddy
01-01-2002, 02:48 AM
Originally posted by turbos86


How about Tamiya TS-13? will it do the job?

If that is the code # for their lacquer, yes!

turbos86
01-01-2002, 02:01 PM
Originally posted by Guiddy


If that is the code # for their lacquer, yes!

TS-13 is the Clear spray, is it lacquer?

Guiddy
01-01-2002, 06:17 PM
Originally posted by turbos86


TS-13 is the Clear spray, is it lacquer?

Yeah, that's what clear is!

mediamixhobby
01-05-2002, 11:19 AM
Right after I spray, a speck of dust fell onto the paint surface! Argggg... How do I rescue this? Also, at some places, there are air bubbles. Is it because I sprayed too near?

Guiddy
01-05-2002, 01:32 PM
Originally posted by mediamixhobby
Right after I spray, a speck of dust fell onto the paint surface! Argggg... How do I rescue this? Also, at some places, there are air bubbles. Is it because I sprayed too near?

The dust isn't a problem, just wait for it to dry, sand it out, then lacque again.
As for the bubbles, is it a decalled car? Bubles usually pop out from decals.
Otherwise it isn't shaken enough or too much too close! Or it can be sprayed too soon after washing it!

mediamixhobby
01-05-2002, 06:45 PM
Originally posted by Guiddy


The dust isn't a problem, just wait for it to dry, sand it out, then lacque again.
As for the bubbles, is it a decalled car? Bubles usually pop out from decals.
Otherwise it isn't shaken enough or too much too close! Or it can be sprayed too soon after washing it!

Thanks! It is bare plastic I'm spraying on. Most likely I've not shaken the can enough as I'm pretty impatient! How long do you recommend? And the recommended distance?

Wong

Guiddy
01-06-2002, 08:17 AM
It's 2 minutes can shaking, and about a forearm's distance away!

mediamixhobby
01-06-2002, 08:34 AM
Originally posted by Guiddy
It's 2 minutes can shaking, and about a forearm's distance away!

How long is an arm? :D

Is 30cm is good distance?

Guiddy
01-06-2002, 11:19 AM
Something like that! DO I get a discount for painting advice???:D :D :D

mediamixhobby
01-06-2002, 05:02 PM
Originally posted by Guiddy
Something like that! DO I get a discount for painting advice???:D :D :D

Depends on what you order ;)

Fizzychops
01-06-2002, 08:06 PM
Good to see you here Wong!!;)

Si 2 Si
01-06-2002, 08:09 PM
simply incredible work!!! :eek:
I think I have found my new hobby :D

datsun510dude
01-07-2002, 06:55 AM
Ok OK. I painted my integra body with 1 coat of paint, and found some "rough spots" so I took my testors sanding films and went to town on them. SO After i sand the imperfections out I paint it again. 2 coats? then rubbing compound THEN clear or clear then rubbing compound. ( I have this 3M rubbing compound that sats removies fine scratches. This stuff will work right?

Thanks
JOsh

mediamixhobby
01-07-2002, 07:02 AM
Originally posted by Fizzychops
Good to see you here Wong!!;)

G'day to you too!

Guiddy
01-07-2002, 12:01 PM
Originally posted by datsun510dude
Ok OK. I painted my integra body with 1 coat of paint, and found some "rough spots" so I took my testors sanding films and went to town on them. SO After i sand the imperfections out I paint it again. 2 coats? then rubbing compound THEN clear or clear then rubbing compound. ( I have this 3M rubbing compound that sats removies fine scratches. This stuff will work right?

Thanks
JOsh

All Ok so far. 2 coats of paint, 3 coats of clear.

Clear, then rubbing!
Sounds like 3M Finesse it? Great stuff, though proabably a little too fine. You may want something a little more coarse first, i.e T-Cut or paint restorer, then go over with the 3M!

datsun510dude
01-08-2002, 05:33 PM
It says "3M Rubbing Compound" "safely Removes Fine Scratches" "Clear Coat safe" "Contains no silicone or wax" Its in a 8 oz bottle.

Josh

Mikke
01-24-2002, 06:30 PM
Originally posted by turmio
Is Tamiya rubbing comphound -for windows right compound, for making the paint smooth and shine? I read whole thread, but really wasn't sure about this.

Can I find rubbing coumpounds from hardware stores? Or are these compounds some specialproducts, that you have to hunt down with FBI?

Tietonikkari in Helsinki has Tamiya rubbing compound

nismo kid
02-04-2002, 05:46 PM
Well you weren't wrong when suggesting t-cut for models! It's amazing! I had a pretty average paint job on my R32 after the laquer went on, and went at it with the t-cut and it's come out like a mirror! (well almost) I definately wouldn't have thought of that myself, so I'm glad I found this site!:flash: :flash: :flash: :D :) :D :flash: :flash:

Guiddy
02-05-2002, 05:52 AM
That's what we are here for! Glad we could help!!!

flyonthewall
02-06-2002, 09:42 AM
hey guiddy, im asuming your from the uk right? me 2! U mentioned halfords paints and that was the give away, they're great paints though aren't they?? Anyway what is the cutting paste u prefer? i use t-cut but the ressidue it leaves after is tricky to get rid of.

flyonthewall
02-06-2002, 04:07 PM
err maybe not then, if i open my eyes i would see u live in austrailia!!! How do u know about Halfords paints then?

Jay!
02-06-2002, 04:11 PM
Originally posted by flyonthewall
err maybe not then, if i open my eyes i would see u live in austrailia!!! How do u know about Halfords paints then? LOL! Guiddy's from England, on holiday in Oz... ;)

Guiddy
02-06-2002, 05:42 PM
Originally posted by flyonthewall
hey guiddy, im asuming your from the uk right? me 2! U mentioned halfords paints and that was the give away, they're great paints though aren't they?? Anyway what is the cutting paste u prefer? i use t-cut but the ressidue it leaves after is tricky to get rid of.

Hehehe! Fooled ya!

Yeah, I live in Northampton, as does Steve Gibbins!

Halford's paints are the only way to go, though you pay for them!
Out here in Oz I am having withdrawl symptons as the spray cans are awful!
Halford's cans have high pressure, a good amount and the name of the paint on the CAN on not the lid!!! Why doesn't everyone think of that!!!:confused:

As for cutting paste, buy yourself some Autoglym Paint Restorer!
It smells better than T-cut, leaves no residue and is cheaper!!!
Then to get a mirror finish get yourself some 3M Finesse. You will need to visit a trade paint supplier for it, but the shine will blow you away!
Add some Autoglym Gold badged gloss for the final touch!

tazdev
02-07-2002, 03:04 AM
would meguiars scratch X do a similar job to T-cut. It is labeled as a fine scratch and swirl remover.

And would Meguiars gold class clear coat car wax do for the polishing?

the reason I ask is that I have a few trial size packs of these and wonder if they would do the job (and save me some money)

tazdev
02-08-2002, 01:55 AM
Originally posted by Guiddy
And this is how I do my black lining!

First clean out the door gaps with the back of a scalpel, carefully!

A very washy Tamiya gloss black is made, and using a thin brush, a large blob of the runny stuff is placed at the middle of a door shut, and immediatley you see it run up and down the door gap! Add more thinners if it stops, further down if you have to, then leave to dry!

You get little marks where the brush was dabbed, and when dry, these are lightly polished of with cutting paste or polish!

This is one of the best bits of information I have got off this forum:) Cheers Guiddy.

Oh BTW the scratch X seems to do a good job in cutting the paint:) (smells good too)

nismo kid
02-08-2002, 06:08 PM
When applying paint to the body shell is there any way to stop the slight roughness that appears? Or is this supposed to be there? Should I spray enough on to create a smooth shine while it's wet, or should I sand/T-Cut the roughness down? The thing is, if I spray on another coat, it'll just go like it again. After all, it was smooth to start with.

darrenj
02-10-2002, 03:42 PM
Hi new member just got in
new comer in the modelling thingy I do love dioramas
what about clear coating before or after decaling
what is the best mixture/combination for applaying clear coat with an airbrush
thankyou
check out something I did http://www.angelfire.com/de2/darren/brab.html
I know know, should have removed the line on the guy's arm..:flash:

Guiddy
02-15-2002, 04:46 PM
Originally posted by darrenj

what is the best mixture/combination for applaying clear coat with an airbrush?



50/50 or the consistency of milk! It goes on after decaling, as the lacquer protects the decals.

DavidG
02-17-2002, 10:14 AM
would it be better to spray the clear coat before the decals or after the decals...

i've never painted any plastic model before

i think that if i do it after aplying the decals it will protect it from scratches or even coming off....

thanx a lot..

i talking about the CLK-GTR see sig, look how many decals :(

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