Tamiya Mazda RX-7 R1redux

Next on the chopping block is the RX-7 R1. I originally started this kit before my first completed car, the Tom's Supra.

I had botched the paint the first time and striped it with Mr. Clean. I managed to scratch the hell out of the body and still went to repaint it. I managed to botch it a second time. I was using enamal paints. Trying a under coat of silver with a semi transparent blue. I think it was a little to much for me at the time.

Now I'm going to paint it with a automotive blue and clear coat. Get it done and on to the next one.

So I'm currently stripping the old paint off, again using this time Castrol Super Clean. Hopefully it will remove the nice piney scent the Mr. Clean left on the plastic. :D I'll be using Mr. Surfacer to fill in the smaller scratches and imperfections that I managed to put in while striping it the first time. Priming, painting, etc.

Finally I'll have to redo the windows too because I tried to paint them free hand. HA, what an idiot! They look like such ass it's not even funny. :(

Here's a pic of the wonderful paint job I gave it before.

At least we are always learning by our mistakes!

The only mistakes I really hate are the ones where I couldn't understand why!:mad:

RHD or LHD?

The R1 was N.A.-spec only, so the kit is supposed to be LHD. Then, on the extra tree of parts for the LHD stuff, they also added the engine parts, hence the R1 is the only kit with the 13B. :) Which is why I bought it. They also molded in the corner lights, and tell you to remove the side markers. :(

So, I want to build mine as a Japanese version (RHD), but it won't be a true representation of a real life car, but in fact, a bastardization of what was available between Japan and N.A.

So which are you going to do?

what's the difference between RX7 R1 and "plain" RX7?
I have Efini RX7 (which is Mazda for domestic market)
and see no difference besides right-hand steering
Real j-spec Mazdas has different headlights but it hardly
can be reproduced in model scale

Originally posted by jay@af
RHD or LHD?

The R1 was N.A.-spec only, so the kit is supposed to be LHD. Then, on the extra tree of parts for the LHD stuff, they also added the engine parts, hence the R1 is the only kit with the 13B. :) Which is why I bought it. They also molded in the corner lights, and tell you to remove the side markers. :(

So, I want to build mine as a Japanese version (RHD), but it won't be a true representation of a real life car, but in fact, a bastardization of what was available between Japan and N.A.

So which are you going to do?
Box stock. LHD with the side markers lopped off. The chassis and interior is already built so all I basically need to do is finish the body.

Originally posted by awaken1973
what's the difference between RX7 R1 and "plain" RX7?
I have Efini RX7 (which is Mazda for domestic market)
and see no difference besides right-hand steering
The R1 was a limited production model sold in North America that was "tweaked" a bit to be a bit more race-ready. I believe (not positive) that is was particularly tuned to be used in SCCA and club racing.

The difference in the models is that the Efini RX-7 came out first, wth only a RHD setup and no engine detail. Then later, Tamiya released the R1 with the extra parts for LHD and the 13B powerplant.
Originally posted by awaken1973
Real j-spec Mazdas has different headlights but it hardly
can be reproduced in model scale Some of the Fujimi kits have the large corner-mounted headlights:
http://www2.hlj.com/images/fuj/fuj03465box.gif
It may only be on the "Mazdaspeed A-spec" kits, though.

The "corner mounted" headlights are only available with the mazdaspeed Aspec RX7 body kits.

Lets hope you have better luck this time with it :p

Gee thanks, I hope so too. I just soaked the windows in CSC and like Jay said it didn't hurt the clear plastic at all and now they are squeeky clean.

So to recap CSC will do windows too! :D

My clear test parts are still soaking since last week (or two weeks?)... LOL!!! It's a long-term test now! :D

#&!$ **^!_@#&$#(@_!!!! :mad: :mad:

I snapped my fracking rear window in half!!!. It wasn't sitting straight in the body so I thoutht I'll just bend it a bit and SNAP!

So I don't suppose anyone has a spare, before I call Tamiya?

Yeah. :( Clear parts suck. I broke a part of my Skyline taillights in three places. :cry: Sorry I can't help out here. :(

Originally posted by G-Forces
#&!$ **^!_@#&$#(@_!!!! :mad: :mad:

I snapped my fracking rear window in half!!!. It wasn't sitting straight in the body so I thoutht I'll just bend it a bit and SNAP!


Pman tiptoes out of thread:bloated: :bloated:

Originally posted by primera man


Pman tiptoes out of thread:bloated: :bloated:
LOL! :lol2: I guess everyone needs a model that is a right bastard to build. :)

Has anyone else built this kit yet?

Originally posted by G-Forces
Has anyone else built this kit yet? It's in my to-do pile...

The rear window breaking is a slight set back. I'll just glue it together for now until I can get a new one.

Forging on. I used some Tamiya putty for the larger gouges that I managed to put into the body. Then I used some Mr. Surfacer 1000 for all the scratches in the rest of teh body. I guess the Mr. Clean that I used to strip the first botched paint job softened the plastic and made it really easy to scratch up with the toothbrush I was using.

So after applying the 'filler' it was sanded down nice a smooth. Tamiya grey surface primer was then applied and sanded down again. Finally an even coat of fine surface primer was used. No visible scratches or gouges. I wish real cars were this easy to restore. :)

So last nite I applied the 'Electric Blue' undercoat to the body. When that cures in about 5 days I'll do a finaly light sanding and apply the final coats of clear.

Also I painted the initial coat of black to the S2000. The usual body prep went into this, sanding off the flash, priming, etc. It was getting too dark when I did what I thought at the time was going to be the finaly coat, so I'll wait till this cures and then give it light sand and a final coat.

I'm pretty happy with the paint on both cars so far. :D

Nice work. Both of them look to be coming along

DON'T sand the body before applying the lacquer! The base colour is supposed to be rough to refract the light!
Just apply the lacquer to what you have!

Both are lookin' good, man! :) I like how your Supra had to sneak into the background... ;)Originally posted by G-Forces
I guess the Mr. Clean that I used to strip the first botched paint job softened the plastic and made it really easy to scratch up with the toothbrush I was using.Really? Do you mean "Mr. Clean" or "Super Clean" (CSC)? I had no problems like that either time I've used CSC, and I used a hard-bristled brush on purpose... :confused:

Originally posted by jay@af
Really? Do you mean "Mr. Clean" or "Super Clean" (CSC)? I had no problems like that either time I've used CSC, and I used a hard-bristled brush on purpose... :confused:
Yeah the first time I painted it was about 3 years ago. I screwed it up and someone recommend Mr. Clean to strip it. I used a soft bristle brush and scratched the hell out of it. The body still smells like pine. :rolleyes: So still three years ago I tried to repaint it. Same result, looked like ass.

FF to present time. CSC was used to strip the second botched job. Now filled and sanded and primed and painted you see it in the pic above. :)

Originally posted by Guiddy
DON'T sand the body before applying the lacquer! The base colour is supposed to be rough to refract the light!
Just apply the lacquer to what you have!
Gotcha! Thanks. :D

Well I'm 99.9% done this kit. I still need to get some super glue and put the side mirrors on but I have some pics of the final product regardless.

First of all I really like this kit but I've bodgered it beyond my liking. The rear window is cracked, both of the pins broke off the rear wheels and I can't get them to sit straight or in all the way now. The interior is very badly painted, the hood has a chip out of one of the corners and the underbody is pretty rough. Lastly I think the Mr. Clean that I used years ago on my first paint striping softenend the plasic enough to cause a permenent warp on the body and hood. :rolleyes:

I'm going to leave this kit alone and if I come across it again I'll buy it and use this one for parts. I'll also lower it about 1.5 mm.

Anyway on to the pics.

Dig how the rear window won't sit donw all the way now. :(

Rear wheel sticks out too much on this side.

Check that lense flare! :D

OK last one I'll save you the suffering. :p Stick a fork in it...it's done.

Nice job anyway! Mine RX7 have lot of problems too (pin broken and front wheels do not turn and steer). Probably I'll do it again as more skills will have developed

It's still nice to see it, and you are learning!
It really looks quite good in the pics!

Leave it as it is now, and move on. We have all had our mishaps! But try and keep it, you'll look back and laugh! (As opposed to wanting to cry now!)

Looks OK Jason. I'm glad i have just brought this model as it looks good.
That is the standard height ???

Looking at each of the pics I posted you'd get the impression that there are 4 different ride heights. But yes it's too high and 1 to 1.5 mm lowering would be the best.

I don't know if I'd get the Tamiya again, as I think it's out of production now. If I come across one I'll get it but I've got my eye on this one now. :D

http://www.hlj.com/images/fuj/fuj03513box.gif

Originally posted by G-Forces
Looking at each of the pics I posted you'd get the impression that there are 4 different ride heights. But yes it's too high and 1 to 1.5 mm lowering would be the best.

I don't know if I'd get the Tamiya again, as I think it's out of production now. If I come across one I'll get it but I've got my eye on this one now. :D

http://www.hlj.com/images/fuj/fuj03513box.gif

the Fujimi one is a newer style with redesigned front bumper, seats, and spoiler..

the tail lights I believe in the newer one supposed to have circles on them like supras, but Fujimi failed to add that in. also, some of the details on the car that Tamiya used a whole sperate part for, Fujimi either molded it in, or cover it with a decal. so dont' expect this to be nearly as perfect of a kit as the Tamiya on.

Originally posted by pkw1
so dont' expect this to be nearly as perfect of a kit as the Tamiya on.
Nahh, I expect fujimi quality. :D

Maybe I'll just pic up the wheels. Like I said if I come across another Tamiya R1 then I'll get it.

HLJ is all out of that Tamiya 7 kit?

I am on the lookout for a F3DS! HLJ only have the A-spec!:rolleyes:

huh? :confused: HLJ only have the A-Spec?????

I found a LOAD of non-A-Spec here if you're interested..

Type RS 1999 (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-local/hljpage.cgi?FUJ03464)
Type RZ 2000 (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-local/hljpage.cgi?FUJ03513)
Type R Bathust R (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-local/hljpage.cgi?FUJ03533)

Originally posted by pkw1
huh? :confused: HLJ only have the A-Spec?????

I found a LOAD of non-A-Spec here if you're interested..

Type RS 1999 (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-local/hljpage.cgi?FUJ03464)
Type RZ 2000 (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-local/hljpage.cgi?FUJ03513)
Type R Bathust R (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-local/hljpage.cgi?FUJ03533)

Yeah, but they are not in stock!
Ordering a non stock item is like waiting for the raising of the Mary Rose!:rolleyes:
Only the A-spec is in stock!

really? i tought a no instock item is only meaning it's not in HLJ's warehouse, but they can easily get it from the model manufacture withing days... unless they're hot selling items, in that case, say they get 100 units a time, and 150 orders sold, then 50 guys have to wait for next batch...

but who knows.

Found one on Ebay :) (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1684473729)

$7! That's just crazy! I want the Fujimi one though, the later model!

http://www.kunta-ripley.com/m_cars/japan/J_FD3S/J_FD_01.jpg