by the end of this month i'll be turbo, with just the stock d16a6, im using the t25 turbo off of the 2nd gen eclipse. now this is just a temp setup until i can afford a motor swap. My question is what motor is generaly better for turbo, i was thinking of just saving my time, and swapping a vtec head onto my motor, and then rebuilding it. would this be the route to go, or is there a decent motor for a decent price that would be better?

people like LS/Vtec for turbo. i believe thats the best for turbo. im not 100% sure but i know its damn good for turbo.

One quick question. how much are you doing your turbo set up for? im curious how much people are spending because i wanna go turbo for like 2k or less and im trying to figure out if its possible.(w/ an intercooler)

t25=$100 from a friend
1g dsm bov=put in my pocket when i went to the junk yard.
1g 450 injectors=also put in my pocket from junk yard.
std manifold=$35 from junk yard
starion intercooler=$50
adaptor plate=made it from 4.5x4.5 3/4 inch steel
downpipe=$130 from local master muffler.
msd 6btm ingnition control module=$450
intercooler piping=hi pressure radiator hose. free from my dads work.
and the only thing that i am waiting on is my next 2 paychecks to buy the zdyne gold secu.

t25=$100 from a friend
1g dsm bov=put in my pocket when i went to the junk yard.
1g 450 injectors=also put in my pocket from junk yard.
std manifold=$35 from junk yard
starion intercooler=$50
adaptor plate=made it from 4.5x4.5 3/4 inch steel
downpipe=$130 from local master muffler.
msd 6btm ingnition control module=$450
intercooler piping=hi pressure radiator hose. free from my dads work.
and the only thing that i am waiting on is my next 2 paychecks to buy the zdyne gold secu.

I wouldnt spend all that money on that ignition, retarding timing for boost is dumb i think, just losing power, and i doubt youre gonna be boosting enough to worry about it anyways, the T25 is a internal wastegate? you know what it is set at?

also, dont you have to bore out the fuel rail for those injectors? I thought i read this once.

I know for a fact that retarding your engine timing is a good idea. If your going to be running 12 lbs or more it wouldn't hurt. I had a friend running a CRX with a B16A engine with a Drag gen III kit on 12 lbs. He didn't retard his engine and just kept everything the way it was and his valves did something to the cam and his whole head is shot. When he took it to the shop that does our cars they said his engine should of been retarded at least two degrees because you need that little help from the engine when you are boosting. Yeah when he's not running boost (which is under 3.5 k rpm) the car would seem slower but when those pounds kick in it would keep the engine up with the amount of force your putting the engine through.

Just my two cents, to sum it up, it wouldn't hurt as much as you think

FnkDrSpok

B16 is not meant for 12 pounds of boost smart one. also the BTM retards timing as boost increases, not the user retards it.

and the LS should handle 12 pounds(but i still wouldnt push it) and it is the only b series strong enough to handle that much. I wouldnt have passed 8 psi on a B16, and that would only be on race day, on street id stay with 6.

ive already argued this subject till i was blue in the face so im not even gonna try im using the msd and thats that now can someone answer my question about the motor?

ok, do what yopu want, its your car after all, was just giving a suggestion to save some dough. but as far as which engine would be good for turbo, why not swap in a B18B1.

in my opinion and many others (including a certified honda tech) its not "saving dough" its a must on a stock d16a6.

oh yeah and all that shit that i listed i have already bought except for the zdyne.

well, im not saying it isnt a good idea, but doesnt it retard it like 1 degree for each pound of boost or something like that?( dont know the actual figure)

and wont 8+ degrees retardeed steal too much power.

I'd trade a pound of boost for a degree of timing retarding any day. :)

These guys may be of some help to you. http://www.homemadeturbo.com/

yeah thats were i got most of my resources from and ill be running the exact same setup as one of those guys.

The A6 is a great engine, great tranny/cam/ECU. Putting a vtec head on it will raise the compression so you can either use a thicker head gasket or if you decide to go w/the rebuild you should be set. work out the #s or talk w/someone before you choose your pistons so you know what your c/r will end up being. Using the ZDyne is good, much much better than a POS fmu. As far as the injectors, they will fit. The seals in the intake manifold that the injectors fit into will have to be inlarged (dye grinder/dremel) for proper fit.

This should help choose pistons/head gasket thickness if you have the info.
http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/index.php

hey turbosaturn what kind of car do u drive? that pic under ur sig sure looks like a supra, im confuse :screwy: . as far as engine goes for a turbo set up, the b18a/b will be the best option. putting a turbo in a frankenstein swap (ls bottom and vtec head) is dam risky if u ask me. u have enough things to worry about with the frankenstein swap.

good call 94tegrs with 8psi on the b16. i wouldn't reccomend going any higher than that. with the ls motor u can go up to 12 on stock internals.

Sorry about the confusion the car in my sig is a friends of mine, and the reason my name is turbosaturn is because thats what i used to drive, but some idiot broadsided me going 65 and totaled my saturn. right now i drive an 89 crx si. i decided to go with a zc dohc just because im getting it for swapping my d16a6 to the kid.
The reason why hes trading me, is because its all in pieces and he dosent know how to put it back together, and he doesnt have the money to pay someone to. so for a while im going to be driving with the 1.5 hf motor in my car until i finish rebuilding the zc.

You said you drove a turbo saturn. My brother works for saturn and drives a 92 sl2 and wants to turbo it just to surprise the shit out of everyone So what was your car and what was the turbo setup?

any info is appreciated :feedback:

i had an sc1 with a dohc swap, i had a t3/t4 hybrid from twistec, i had a fmic from a starion with the end tanks rewelded and polished. i was using a hks ssq bov, and i had a local mufler shop do all of my intercooler piping, and my manifold as well as my down pipe. i had all stock internals, i had a ported intake manifold from saturn motorsports.
tell him if he goes turbo to make sure he gets the titan copper head gasket from www.saturnmotorsports.com, and to make sure he upgrades to a new clutch and maybe a diff saver from phantom grip, seeing how saturns are nototrious for having diff pin failure.
it definately turns heads when people see that your turboed in a saturn. honestly thought to tell you the truth, it was the biggest waste of money in my life. there really hard to upkeep and if your gonna run high boost you gotta have lots of money because things are gonna break and you gotta constantly replace weak shit. but if he wants a sleeper thats gonna get a best time of low 13' high 12's thats really unreliable then tell go ahead.

sounds like good times. :evillol: thanks for all your input my bro will appreciate it

and yea we saw an sc2 coupe running 13s with tons of stuff (portn polish nitrous phantomLSD etc..) it was a sight to see

TURBOSATURN, this turbo project for your car sounds an awful lot like the "buget boost" series on cheap homemade turbo's Honda Tuning has run 3 times in the last several issues. If fact, it's the exact same parts. Is that where you got the info/idea to do it? If not, check it out, all 3 articles. Maybe you can find the back articles on the web. That's cool your trying it, if thats where you got the idea. Also, the best honda motor to boost? The LS motor. It can handle 12psi on stock internals with proper tuning. It has the strongest block of the hondas. It's the only one that can go that high. The other b-series motors should go about 8psi, and 6psi is safer on the H22A. That 12psi on the LS can be over 250WHP. That will more your little CRX. So, if you want a FI honda motor, go with the LS. Once you properly build it and close the deck, you can really boost it and make power. Properly built and with a closed deck, you can run 25psi. Thats massive power. Even in stock form, it's capiable of running the above stated 12psi on the stock internals tuned correctly. Thats a hell of a lot more than any of the other motors can handle.

I personally wouldnt push a stock B18B upwards of 12 pounds, just not worth the risk, unless you wanna completely rebuild it anyways and just wanna see what it will handle before you rebuild it, hopefully when it goes though, nothing leaves a giant hole in your block or something like that.

the best way to go would be to crush your honda and get a DOMESTIC!!!

best way would be for you to find your dads gun suck the barrel and pull the trigger :thefinger :smokin:


or go back ot the domestic forums and dont bother me with your bullshit! and for the record I dopnt hate domsetsics, just you.

im going off of the homemade turbo website, i came across it one day and was like damn i could do that. so i started collecting parts. yeh its been put on the back burner for now though i just got a new toy, an 85 starion, im trying to get that running, then once i do im pulling out the d16a6 and swapping it for a dohc zc, then ill do the turbo setup at the same time, so hopefully by next spring ill be sportin a seemingly stock turbo crx!
on the note does anyone make low compression pistons for the zc?

oh and on the whole eomestic vs import thing ive driven and worked on many domestics(my dad is a ford mechanic)and i like my honda better than any domestic! and this is coming from an ex chevy man and ex chevy racer!

I have a turbo street bike.... do i qualify to join the club? You can see me doin crazy shit on www.mtlmaniacs.com....... haven't done my cavalier cause i don't think the engine will handle it too well LOL

dont you fools know that especially if you have cast pistons,your engine wont live for too long if the timing isnt retarded when boost comes on?????and if you run high compression(i.e. over 9.0:1) with forged pistons you damn well better have a boost retard function!get in the know before you start talking smack and get some reverve dome forged pistons......nate

dont you fools know that especially if you have cast pistons,your engine wont live for too long if the timing isnt retarded when boost comes on?????and if you run high compression(i.e. over 9.0:1) with forged pistons you damn well better have a boost retard function!get in the know before you start talking smack and get some reverve dome forged pistons......nate

WTF? We never SAID you didn't need to retard timing, that you didn't need a "missing link," or managment unit for th turbo. DOn't assume we are dumb, umm...let me think, first of all, do you know Hondas? In regards to the High C/R, all the mentioned honda motors, D-series, ZC, B18B1, they all have low comperssion. And we're not talking about boosting a stock motor to 15psi or some shit, we are talking about "safe boost levels, for the engine. Just discussing what people have done or tried. At 6spi, with a timing retard, or a hondata, or a FMU to control the fuel and timing, for example, he'll be fine. For the most part, this ins't a "how do I boost my honda" thread, it's more of a "I am doing this, check it out" thread. A few general questions about boostinghonda's here and there, but nothing really requiring a long answer. As a result, we're not going into insane detail. Please don't assume we are all ignorant idiots. I can assure you we are not. We are plenty aware of what is require to boost a honda that is stock, as well as what is required to boost a honda to levels not safe for the stock block. So don't call us fools. This discussion never centered on that stuff, so...hmm...maybe thats why all that never came up in depth.

TurboSaturn, with the zdyne gold that you are going to buy, the MSD BTM will be useless, the ECU will handle you timing retard for you. Also, you will not need a missing link or any check valves if you are running under 9lbs of boost, however if you want to run that 1st gen DSM turbo it is internally gated and set for 14.7psi (I think), for that you will need a 2 bar map sensor, which can also be purchased from Zdyne. I am using there Gold ECU for my build. And to everyone out there quoting boost numbers for a certian motor, take into account the type of tubo and it specs. For example, I am running 7.25lbs of boost right now out of a T3/T04E with a 57 trim wheel, .48 and .63 for the a/r, and it is alot more airflow then Turbosaturns 14g (t25) will run at 14.7lbs. Just a thought, think it over, you have to look at the CFM a turbo flows at a certian boost level. Good luck, I would try and sell that BTM to pay for the Zdyne Gold, it is worth its wieght in gold :-). Once again, along with the fuel maps in the Zdyne, you can program timming retard.

hey guys i have an 88 honda crx si boosted and i have a IHI turbo (little bigger then a t-25) greddy BOV,custom made turbo manifold, Split second voltage Clamp, walbro fuel pump vortec fmu, spearco intercooler...im running 7 psi rite now i can run 9 at max..my engine with stock internal can run 18 psi MAX thats with a head gap and upgraded injectors..a b16 can only run 7 psi with stock everything..if u get a head gap for it u can run 16 psi on stock internals..if seen it done ..a guy i know in PA has this set up...

get a mustang and golden showers all over your front drive bullshit

sorry buddy but i can walk mustang y buy one
i would be down grading

what a fucktard.....get a life you fucking import fag!!!!!get a car with rwd and a v8 or youre still a loser.......

y would i do that
my 4 banger would kill a v8..
ur prob all pissed off bc u still drive mommy and daddys car ..grow up FAG..
and if u thik imort drivers are fags, y u on this site then..since ur so tuff behind a compuer screen