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98 isuzu trooper buring oil excessively


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bgwilson
01-21-2007, 07:18 PM
info from an isuzu mechanic:

I USE BG ENG FLUSH, BUT THE MAIN THING IS TO DO IT CORRECTLY, IN USING THE BG AND I WOULD IMAGINE THE SEAFOAM AS WELL, GET THE ENG TO NORMAL TEMP AND DRAIN THE OIL , NOW INSTALL THE SEAFOM OR THE BG FLUSH WITH A NEW FILTER JUST A CHEAP OIL FILTER AND A CHANGE OF 5W30 ENG OIL DOES NOT HAVE TO BE HI GRADE OIL , NOW RUN THE ENG FOR ABOUT 45 MINUTES, WATCH THE OIL PRESSURE DOES NOT START TO DROP, IF IT DOES SHUT IT DOWN IMMEDIATELY, USUALLY WILL NOT DO THIS ,IF THE ENG IS REALLY GUMMED UP IT COULD PLUG UP THE OIL PICKUP PIPE , NOW DRAIN THE OIL ,REPLACE THE FILTER AND DO IT AGAIN WITH A ANOTHER BG OR SEAFOAM TREATMENT , THIS TIME DRIVE IT 1/2 HR -45 MIN, NOW DRAIN , AND ANOTHER FILTER AND THIS TIME FILL WITH ROTELLA 5-40 DSL GRADE ENG OIL THIS IS A VERY HI DETERGENT OIL, AND WATCH THEN THE OIL USAGE , AND RUN THIS OIL ABOUT 3000 MILES AND KEEP ADDING IF NECESSARY TO KEEP THE LEVEL NORMAL,, OR AS SOON AS THE OIL STARTS TO TURN REAL BLACK , CHANGE IT AGAIN , THE QUICKER IT TURNS BLACK MEANS IT IS CLEANING THE ENG , IT MAY HOWEVER TAKE A COUPLE OF OIL CHANGES TO GET ALL THE DIRTY STUFF OUT AND THE CARBON AND VARNISH TO START DISSAPEARING , AND THEN USE THE 5W40 ROTELLA ALL THE TIME ,, IT,S AVAILABLE AT WALMART , I WOULD DO THIS BEFORE GOING INTO THE ENG AND SEE IF TI DOESNT HELP, ALLSO MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE PCV VLV IS WORKING OR JUST REPLACE IT .MAIN THING IS JUST DONT RUN LOW OF OIL ,, THE REASON YOU WANT TO USE FREASH ENG OIL WITH THE ENG FLUSH , YOU DONT WANT IT TRYING TO BREAK DOWN THE SLUDGE AND VARNISH IN THE ENG AND ALLSO WHAT IS ALLREADY IN THE OLD OIL , WITH FREASH OIL ALL IT CAN ATTACK IS THE BUILD UP ON THE INTERNALL PARTS
Thanks for the reply. I already switched to 1/2 5W 30 and 1/2 Rotella Diesel Oil. I haven't seen a difference yet, but I'm going to take the swith over to the diesel oil slowly. I will be taking the 2001 Trooper Ltd 4WD 83000 miles, to the dealer tomorrow for the oil consumption problem. I have already cleanded the EGR valve, replaced the PCV valve, flushed with SeaFoam, etc., with no success. I hope the diesel engine oil helps the problem.

How does the dealer do the oil consumption test? I'd like to make sure I'm informed when (if) the dealer says I don't have a problem. I have never owned a vehicle that uses more than 1 quart per oil change. I am always worried that this vehicle is going to seize. I do have to say, that it has been a very reliable vehicle otherwise, but I am very concerned about an engine seize, as I have known two other people that have had engine seizures. The engine oil light never gave them a warning.

tinytrixie
05-09-2007, 12:47 AM
I posted this b4, a really good read on motor oil!:
http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

yakk
07-09-2007, 11:05 PM
After using the Auto RX about 4 times and seeing some positive results, my '00 was still using a quart every 1000 or so miles.

I just switched to the 5W40 Rotella diesel oil and after the first 900 miles it's still at the full level.:ylsuper: So far so good.

caslaw
07-19-2007, 04:11 PM
Well, add me to the list of owners who learned this the hard way.

I bought a 2000 Ltd a year ago from a dealer. 78,000 miles, in great condition. My wife drives the vehicle mainly, except for a few family trips. Only put 8,000 mi on it over the last year. This is my 3rd trooper.

I bought an 86 in 91 and drove it into the ground slowly but surely over 6 years (one of the cylinders went - a known problem with the 4's). Then I bought a 93 LS back in 2001, loved it, ran 160,000+ on original engine and tranny (odometer went out at 135) and then sold it to a friend (still runs great - needs ignition wires replaced every 30k or so due to oil penetration - a known problem with the early 6's) when I bought this 2000.

Everything seemed great, changed oil every 3k (yes Iffy Lube), did not notice any excessive oil burn. Then a few weeks ago, family vacation with tent trailer, 2k into oil change, then clicking noise up hill and seizure. No oil warning light. Check oil, bone dry. Of course I felt like a moron b/c I did not check oil at last fillup (I am not soliciting affirmation of this fact). But 4+ quarts in 2k miles? Now I understand why.

So now I am into a remanufactured engine and 5k+ repair bill. To avoid this problem in the future in the new engine, I am soliciting suggestions. One idea I have is to install an oil pressure gauge. I never liked that the fancy TOD indicator booted this vital gauge. The second thing is to look at alternate oil. I see that many have reported success with diesel engine oil. And of course the third thing is to have the oil checked every fillup (we are the only state without self-serve!) regardless of oil change interval and usage.

This is a new engine, so I want to take advantage if possible. Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

Christopher

yakk
08-13-2007, 11:36 PM
After using the Auto RX about 4 times and seeing some positive results, my '00 was still using a quart every 1000 or so miles.

I just switched to the 5W40 Rotella diesel oil and after the first 900 miles it's still at the full level.:ylsuper: So far so good.


Make that 2,000 miles and no oil used....

stiffler4444
12-31-2007, 10:26 AM
I'm just another "proud" owner of a 98 trooper LTD. I've had it for a number of years. My engine mysteriously seized around 100 000 KM, with regular mainenance and whatnot. It cost me over $8000 by the time I shipped a new engine from japan and had it installed. My new engine has started using oil just like the last one. Isuzu couldn't care less...and now they've left Canada altogether so I'm out of luck......maybe I'll try this diesel oil thing....

mlingk
12-31-2007, 12:35 PM
I'm surprised a new replacement engine has the same problem. My understanding was that this was fixed in mid 2001 with a redesign of the drainback holes. Unless it wasn't actually a new engine.

Also, some people has reported success with various oil treatments, etc. I was never able to fix mine and I tried everything. I just ended up selling it for 5K with 130K miles so I wouldn't have to worry about it any more.

stiffler4444
01-03-2008, 07:09 AM
Well, I may have jumped the gun...the engine was new for sure, I got a copy of the invoice from the factory. I recently had to put a litre of oil in, but it has not used any since......and that was over 2000 km's ago.....I guess it's possible I am a bit nervous with this thing since the oil light never came on the first time till it seized......

Hawk466
06-24-2008, 07:14 AM
Hey guys, is there any site I can get a free service manual for my isuzu trroper??? Thanks

LEM
06-26-2008, 06:58 AM
After using the Auto RX about 4 times and seeing some positive results, my '00 was still using a quart every 1000 or so miles.

I just switched to the 5W40 Rotella diesel oil and after the first 900 miles it's still at the full level.:ylsuper: So far so good.

How many miles have you on the 2000 trooper? Mine has about 168k; I've been using the Rotella for several months now, but the best I get is about 800 miles per quart. I wonder, why the difference?

SAMIRT905@AOL.COM
07-18-2008, 04:07 PM
We need to take Isuzu to Court with a class action lawsuet with all the people that have had a blown engine. Lawyers love these types of lawsuits.
Samirt905@aol.com

tack1
10-28-2008, 10:36 AM
I have a 199 trooper that also burns oil. It doesn't cause any problems, if you remember to check your oil. I hear that sometimes if you wait for the low oil light to come on, it might not before the engine goes.
I also understand that since being extra oil is being forced past the compression rings, as is the case here, lubrication is actually improved and ensured somewhat.

fiskfarm
02-11-2009, 10:37 PM
For what it's worth I seem to have an oil burning solution.

I picked up a very clean 2000 Trooper with a blown 3.5 engine on the cheap. My son picked up a 99 Rodeo 3.2 in great shape with a blown engine. Both around 100k miles. The papers are full of them. They seem to run great, start consuming oil like crazy, someone forgets to check oil often enough and boom. Well we are both mechanics, I worked for Citroen for years (years ago) and have been a mechanic ever since on all kinds of industrial equipment including major troubleshooting and he is in his 4th year of ME. We got both these cars to convert them to diesel but copped out and went replacement gas so we had to solve the oil issue.
Now to the point.
First thing I noticed when we started analyzing what was killing these engines was the way over aggressive pcv system where they not only vent one head to the primary side of the intake butterfly (that's good) but they also create a huge suction (and in our opinion a huge mistake) on the secondary side straight into the intake plenum where during deceleration there is a very high vacuum thru a 3/8 inch hole. Under high revs engines create what is called windage where the air in the engine gets heavy with oil "vapors" from all the flying around mechanical parts. Well if you create huge amounts of air flow thru the engine and into the intake manifold it carries the vapors (more like billions of droplets) right into the engine and what doesn't get burned in the cylinders ends up getting burned off by the cats. This is why you never see any leaks. The oil just seems to disappear. We absolutely proved our theory (to us at least) when we opened up the intake manifolds of these 2 blown engines and the 40K mile engine my son bought out of a junk yard. There in the valleys and pockets of the intake manifolds sat at least half a quart of oil. This is also a result of the drain back issue where too much oil is collecting in the valve covers.
We modified the breather system so that a modest amount of air flows thru the primary side (low vacuum) and plugged the other fitting at the secondary side and placed a small model RC air cleaner on the right hand head breather port. This is more like the system from years past before all the pollution crap. After a few weeks of driving back at school he reported that the oil consumption was normal again (around 1 qt in 2k miles or even less), the odor of hot oil has cleared up and his Rodeo runs great. He has been driving it now for 4 months with no problems. I will be putting a rebuilt engine in the Trooper shortly and I will make a similar system for my $2500.00 rebuild. The rebuilder claims to be aware of this problem and claims to address it during the rebuild. I'm not sure we are both on the same page. He may be refering to the drain back holes and that could cure it as well but for someone who wants a quick fix I would give this a try. As long as you send enough air thru the engine to avoid condensation and carry off fuel vapors that is all you really need. The oil should stay in the engine where it belongs.
Facing the engine from the front the problem side is on the right. Remove the hose going from the breather hole on the valve cover to the intake manifold. Plug the hole at the manifold and attach a hobby shop rc air cleaner to the valve cover pcv valve. A 10 minute job that allows air to vent thru the entire engine. Run it for a few weeks keeping a careful eye on the oil level. I am sure you will be amazed. After the last of the oil trapped in the intake plenum passes thru, the engine will run and smell much better as well. No more smoke under acceleration also. Let us know if this helps.
I have seen many other major problems in industry turn out to be just this simple. I once fixed a large industrial washing machine in under five minutes that had baffled the manufacturer and cost the customer and the oem thousands of dollars over the course of a year and a half. It was awesome! Pissed off a lot of engineers. :rofl:
Good luck. Damn shame what has happened to Isuzu. I have always liked them.

Sword King
03-13-2009, 12:14 AM
My first post here, been lurkin' for a couple months. Since my engine is apart right now in the area you seem to describe, I'm gonna open my mouth.

For what it's worth I seem to have an oil burning solution.

I picked up a very clean 2000 Trooper with a blown 3.5 engine on the cheap. My son picked up a 99 Rodeo 3.2 in great shape with a blown engine. Both around 100k miles. [snip]

First thing I noticed when we started analyzing what was killing these engines was the way over aggressive pcv system where they not only vent one head to the primary side of the intake butterfly (that's good) but they also create a huge suction (and in our opinion a huge mistake) on the secondary side straight into the intake plenum where during deceleration there is a very high vacuum thru a 3/8 inch hole. [snip]
Facing the engine from the front the problem side is on the right. Remove the hose going from the breather hole on the valve cover to the intake manifold. Plug the hole at the manifold and attach a hobby shop rc air cleaner to the valve cover pcv valve. A 10 minute job that allows air to vent thru the entire engine. Run it for a few weeks keeping a careful eye on the oil level. I am sure you will be amazed. After the last of the oil trapped in the intake plenum passes thru, the engine will run and smell much better as well. No more smoke under acceleration also. Let us know if this helps.
[snip]

My '99 SLX has a PCV valve on the front of the driver's side valve cover. The tube goes to the common chamber immediately behind the throttle body. That is the only vent OUT of the crankcase, and is typical of ALL automobiles I know of for the past 40 years or so. On the other valve cover (passenger side) is the tube allowing filtered air in from the air tube. The PVC valve controls the amount of airflow through the crankcase, and doesn't allow unfiltered air back into it.

Basically your idea would defeat the whole purpose of the PVC system on my '99SLX. What I have decided to do instead is make a 'catch jar' based on the ideas at <http://better-mileage.com/PCV.html>; After reading their site, you might consider it yourself.

I bought it with a messed over engine and tranny and have spent the better part of two months getting it running well enough I could get it to a shop and have the codes read. Survey says... I have a 'random mulltiple misfire'. DUH!

Good Luck, SK

2repair
01-05-2010, 06:33 AM
Has anyone ever drilled out the oil control holes to oversize to see if that worked ? No sense in buying new pistons if you can make a mod that takes care of a problem. Looking at buying a Trooper.

Sword King
01-06-2010, 08:57 AM
My '99 SLX has a PCV valve on the front of the driver's side valve cover. The tube goes to the common chamber immediately behind the throttle body. That is the only vent OUT of the crankcase, and is typical of ALL automobiles I know of for the past 40 years or so. On the other valve cover (passenger side) is the tube allowing filtered air in from the air tube. The PVC valve controls the amount of airflow through the crankcase, and doesn't allow unfiltered air back into it.

Basically your idea would defeat the whole purpose of the PVC system on my '99SLX. What I have decided to do instead is make a 'catch jar' based on the ideas at <http://better-mileage.com/PCV.html>; After reading their site, you might consider it yourself.

I bought it with a messed over engine and tranny and have spent the better part of two months getting it running well enough I could get it to a shop and have the codes read. Survey says... I have a 'random mulltiple misfire'. DUH!

Good Luck, SK

Thanks for resurrecting this thread. I had lost it, but wanted to post some results.

I, too, think there are better solutions than replacing pistons. But drilling a finely machined piston ring land isn't a proper solution either, and the time and energy spent doing it would be worth a lot more than just replacing the pistons. However the pistons were not the only changes. Everything I've read says the way to tell the new engine (with redesigned pistons) from the old is the redesigned PCV valve arrangement.

When I took my intake manifold apart, I found the same dirty oil and fuel mixture described above. I cleaned it all out thoroughly, put it back together without a catch can as I described above, got it running, took a 2000 mile trip without major incident other than needing another fuel filter, & using about a pint of oil, but heard what seemed like a leak from the intake manifold gaskets. My son and I took it apart again and discovered the same dirty oily liquid and a leaking fuel injector O-ring (probably my fault from careless reinstallation the first time).

We also made two catch cans, one for either side of the PCV system, and took off on another trip of three thousand miles. Again, we used practically no oil. The catch can on the PCV valve side collected about a quarter cup, the other is still as clean as a whistle. I took the manifold top off again, and NO NASTY LIQUID!

After about 5500 miles, and using about a quart, I changed the oil. It was dark, but not black, and smelled like oil, not gasoline. I was planning on changing oil much sooner, so originally used 15w40 for Diesels, hoping the high detergent oil would clean out any crud, but it stayed so clean I didn't change it right away. Now I'm using Mobil One 5w30, and still don't have any oil loss to speak of.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. SK Now I have to change my signature.

troopertwo
09-04-2010, 12:37 AM
Hi Sword King! Your advice sounds inspring- I'm burning about a quart every 400 miles which would sound catastrophic if the car didn't seem to run so well and if so many others didn't report the same thing.

You're saying that it seems like the PCV valve is probably sucking oil vapor and droplets from the top of the head and valve cover, then burning it?And just to clarify, you're letting your valve cover simply "breath" by running a tube from it to some sort of container, then filtering "fresh" air heading into your intake manifold with a small rc filter?

If this is so, it would be an amazingly simple fix even for some improvement. Do I have the scenario correct? It sounds logical to me. Please let me know if I'm reading this right if you get a chance. Thanks!

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