Give your opinions on this...

*Stock 1991 240sx 1/4 mile: 16.0 @ 87 mph
*cat. removed: 15.7 @ 89
*22 degrees BTDC: 15.5 @ 91
*engine fan removed: 15.3 @ 92
*fuel tunning (S-AFC): 15.1 @ 93
short K&N intake: 14.9 @ 94
T04, no cac, 5 psi: 14.5 @ 97
Supertrapp: 14.3 @ 99
FMCAC, 7.5 psi: 13.4 @ 105
650cc/min inj., 10 psi: 13.0 @ 108
215/55R15 AO32R: 12.8 @ 108
16 psi: 12.0 @ 115
25 psi: 11.1 @ 126

*modification performed, all e.t.s and trap speeds are just estimates; completed mods use estimates from stop watch tests; all other estimates were made with the help of Car Test ver. 4.5.

I like the fact that the KA24DE long blocks are so inexpensive; run it till it smokes worse than the tires, then buy another...How well do you think a stock long block would take 16 and 25 psi, respectively?

All of about 4 seconds...

There is extensive work to be done to your plans. For one, the n/a mods you listed won't add that much power / reduce time that much. Most of the 240SXs are high milage and need some sort of work. Adding a turbocharger running even 10 psi can spell death. It's all in the draw.

Another thing, your leaving alot of things out of your equation.

1. 300Z MAF (or MAP System)
2. Fuel Pump
3. ECU Remapping and/or Standalone System
4. Dyno Tuning
5. Forged Reciprocating Mass w/ Balancing
6. Head Mods
7. Full 3" Exhaust
8. Clutch / Flywheel
9. LSD (stock one is crap and will die)
10. 26x10.5 ET Streets (215/55 = no hook-up running 11s)
11. Ignition Upgrades
12. High Flow Fuel Rail
13. 740cc Injectors
14. T04 is undescriptive... you need to pinpoint your trim and a/rs.
15. Cooling System Upgrades
16. Boost Control

Plus labor and machining costs for alot of the rebuilding of the motor. I've probably left alot quite a bit but these are just a few of the things you'll need.

All of the astrixed mods have been done. The S-AFC tuning doesn't require dyno tuning, heck, its easier than syncing carbs. Anywho, I saw some 12V KA-Ts on 240sx.org that ran low 13s with nothing but a T04, cac, and big injectors, running 7.5 psi on an otherwise stock KA24E. Today I defaulted the S-AFC settings to get a base line and did some 0-60 mph runs. My passenger (+170 lbs) would start the clock as soon as he felt the car move and stop it at 60 mph. The best run was 6.88s and the worst was 8.89; we made 5 with an even spacing in times so I think 7.7 sec 0-60 would be the best estimate. This isn't much faster than stock but I had a passenger, plus the mods are more evident as speed increases. The fan draws about 5 bhp at 5400 rpm on MGBs so the KA fan probably draws about the same; it also weighs 4 lbs so it has about 1/2 the effect of a UR pully just from the weight, not to mention the reduced drag on the engine. The engine itself is in excellent condition, it doesn't burn oil; heck, it doesn't even turn it black over about 5000 miles. Everything I could check without dismantling the block is in spec, I would guess the stuff in the bottom end is just as good. I know the later mods are kinda vague, but I'm not going to buy it tomorrow; I appritiate the constructive criticism though. I'm going to use 550cc injectors... I have an aeromotive regulator, up to 90 psi I think and enough gal/hr to support over 1000 bhp plus a fuel pump to keep up. These are just sitting (salvaged from my old MR2), but with the higher fuel pressure 550s will be excessive as I never plan on going past 465 bhp. I'll settle for lower E.T.s if the AO32Rs won't hook up. I want my 70 mph slalom!

All of the astrixed mods have been done. The S-AFC tuning doesn't require dyno tuning, heck, its easier than syncing carbs. Anywho, I saw some 12V KA-Ts on 240sx.org that ran low 13s with nothing but a T04, cac, and big injectors, running 7.5 psi on an otherwise stock KA24E. Today I defaulted the S-AFC settings to get a base line and did some 0-60 mph runs. My passenger (+170 lbs) would start the clock as soon as he felt the car move and stop it at 60 mph. The best run was 6.88s and the worst was 8.89; we made 5 with an even spacing in times so I think 7.7 sec 0-60 would be the best estimate. This isn't much faster than stock but I had a passenger, plus the mods are more evident as speed increases. The fan draws about 5 bhp at 5400 rpm on MGBs so the KA fan probably draws about the same; it also weighs 4 lbs so it has about 1/2 the effect of a UR pully just from the weight, not to mention the reduced drag on the engine. The engine itself is in excellent condition, it doesn't burn oil; heck, it doesn't even turn it black over about 5000 miles. Everything I could check without dismantling the block is in spec, I would guess the stuff in the bottom end is just as good. I know the later mods are kinda vague, but I'm not going to buy it tomorrow; I appritiate the constructive criticism though. I'm going to use 550cc injectors... I have an aeromotive regulator, up to 90 psi I think and enough gal/hr to support over 1000 bhp plus a fuel pump to keep up. These are just sitting (salvaged from my old MR2), but with the higher fuel pressure 550s will be excessive as I never plan on going past 465 bhp. I'll settle for lower E.T.s if the AO32Rs won't hook up. I want my 70 mph slalom!

I highly suggest using 740cc injectors if you plan to get that KA into the low 11s. Running such a high fuel pressure on the rail will cause the injectors to spring leaks and fail alot sooner. Failure on an injector causes uber detonation as you can imagine. You don't want to have to rely on forcing the 550cc injectors to flow the amount of fuel you need. You'll be taxing your fuel pump as well.

Give your opinions on this...

short K&N intake: 14.9 @ 94
T04, no cac, 5 psi: 14.5 @ 97

your mods wont make you go that fast buddy - sorry to disappoint you


and also, once you get a turbo, you cannot get an intake. the turbo setup replaces the injen


also stopwatches wont work, gtech wont work, and your head wont work. i used to think all those work the same. THEY DO NOT. take your car to the track to find out what it REALLY runs... probably close to a 17.0.

also you need to rebuild the engine before you build or get a brand spankin new one from nissan. you will def blow the car if your planning on running less than 14's

yep prob high 16's low 17's

Give your opinions on this...

*Stock 1991 240sx 1/4 mile: 16.0 @ 87 mph
*cat. removed: 15.7 @ 89
*22 degrees BTDC: 15.5 @ 91
*engine fan removed: 15.3 @ 92
*fuel tunning (S-AFC): 15.1 @ 93
short K&N intake: 14.9 @ 94
T04, no cac, 5 psi: 14.5 @ 97
Supertrapp: 14.3 @ 99
FMCAC, 7.5 psi: 13.4 @ 105
650cc/min inj., 10 psi: 13.0 @ 108
215/55R15 AO32R: 12.8 @ 108
16 psi: 12.0 @ 115
25 psi: 11.1 @ 126

*modification performed, all e.t.s and trap speeds are just estimates; completed mods use estimates from stop watch tests; all other estimates were made with the help of Car Test ver. 4.5.

I've been tinkering with the S-AFC and the ignition timing quite a bit. I've stopped checking the static timing; instead I just look at the pointer for comparison's sake. I also installed a 100% unbaffled muffler on the end of the stock pipe. I'm pulling mid-to-low 15s all day long and I urge the people who doubted me on my E.T.s to stop buying parts and brush up on some tuning skills. I'm going the nitrous route rather than the turbo route for now since it costs less and I'm dragging not club racing or auto-Xing... I'll update y'all on the nitrous install and performance.

:smokin:

stock ecu isn't too bad, neither is the MAF.you all need to learn about HACKED MAF sensors.

You take the internals and metering device of the stock MAF, then you build a new housing for it all. The inside pipe diameter grows porptionally with your Fuel Injectors capacity. If you want to run some used SR injectors fo cheap or so, you can mod your MAF so its inside diameter is 37% bigger, I think thats how much bigger the SR injectors are. This technically would work wth anything, not just SR injectors. someone just said someone was using 550's or 740's?.... on a KA with a hacked MAF and still using the stock ECU putting down 300+rwhp lol. Its just sort of jerry rigged but it does work. it maintains the normal ECU program maps, your just fooling the ECU into thinking it has the normal injectors in them, but as long as the MAF and Injectors are the same size, it allows the say 37% extra air in and the 37% extra fuel because it doesn't know better.....

I'm a 'little bit' (big little bit) away from the limits of the stock MAF. I'm registering 47-49% of max flow. I'll be installing a ram air intake through the front vents before I do anything else. About the home built MAF, inside the MAF there is a wire that spans its internal diameter. This wire changes resistance with temperature and changes temperature with air flow, thus the ECU is able to read the air flow by the amount of current needed to maintain a constant temp. in the wire. I would not imagine this type of wire is easily available on a spool; how do you make the stock hot-wire span the enlarged MAF body? Also, the longer wire will have greater resistance and so throw off the ECU's ability to use the signal to accurately measure air flow. I have a S-AFC and some degree of experience tuning the fuel mixture in carbs, analog FI, and digital FI so I can correct for the resulting inaccuracy but I would still need a longer hot-wire.

my KA24de has around 111k miles on it, so i figured no good for turbo, my friend is selling his for 450$, but he said he can give it to me for 350,

its a 91' ka24de motor with 60k miles.... is 60k still too muich?

And while I'm in the mood...

your mods wont make you go that fast buddy - sorry to disappoint you


and also, once you get a turbo, you cannot get an intake. the turbo setup replaces the injen


also stopwatches wont work, gtech wont work, and your head wont work. i used to think all those work the same. THEY DO NOT. take your car to the track to find out what it REALLY runs... probably close to a 17.0.

Yeah, my REAL E.T.s are a tiny bit short of my estimates.

I know the "injen" won't fit the turbo setup, thats what new plumbling is for and the intake is still a good, low cost NA mod.

Also...maybe those metering devices don't work but I'm still 1.5 seconds faster than your estimate and I'm just getting started.

Remember...This isn't a Chevy (read CRAP) 2.4 we're talking about.

Finally, why did you ruin your car with a gm small block, the distributor is poorly located if you plan on tuning the ignition timing. Plus the block design is lower quality than a comparable Ford small block. Don't boosted Mustangs most frequently beat boosted camaros?... What a waste.

:rofl: ... :loser: ... :grinno: ... :smokin:

heey u didint answer my question... :disappoin

my KA24de has around 111k miles on it, so i figured no good for turbo, my friend is selling his for 450$, but he said he can give it to me for 350,

its a 91' ka24de motor with 60k miles.... is 60k still too muich?

Milage and engine condition aren't as closely related as popular belief dictates. I did you read where I described the fine condition of my engine? I just tipped 210K miles! Besides, even if its worn you may as well blow it up; you're buying another one anyway, right? Boost it up and run it until it smokes worse than the tires! In any case, as long as your engine has good compression, valve lash, oil life, and is generally tight in condition you'll be fine tuning it. Just tune it right.

also you need to rebuild the engine before you build or get a brand spankin new one from nissan. you will def blow the car if your planning on running less than 14's


Theres a dude in the 12's with his stock KA. hes running 250rwhp lol! Thats some driver skillz, course he has abbout the best 60' times I ever seen from a 240sx. His Sr fulltime drag car on slicks runs 1.4s 60'.

Milage and engine condition aren't as closely related as popular belief dictates. I did you read where I described the fine condition of my engine? I just tipped 210K miles! Besides, even if its worn you may as well blow it up; you're buying another one anyway, right? Boost it up and run it until it smokes worse than the tires! In any case, as long as your engine has good compression, valve lash, oil life, and is generally tight in condition you'll be fine tuning it. Just tune it right.

thanks for the quick reply!

so i should just run it till it blows? (my stock 111k miles one), ? do i need a rebuild before i turbo,,,,,

and should i still buy the ka form ym friend with 60k for 350$

i think i should have it, as a backup, and scicne it will be out of the car, i can do stuff to it, and prep it for turbo befor eit goes in, my stock engine will be turboed while that one is getting prepped lol..... good or bad?

my thoughts..

take out the old one, put in your friends that has 60k miles, then turbocharge that engine. Take the highler mileage one out, and then rebuild that one. The higher mileage one would be the first your have to rebuild anyway, and the lowermileage one will probably last longer with the turbo on it, this gives you more time for money and a better engine. Think of it that way

:2cents:

hell yes i want to do that!!, but i also wantr a 240sx fastback, this convertible is pissing me off,

i dunno weather i should turbo my convertible, or buy a fatsback

i am REALLY LOOKING to buy a fastback, and im afraid right after i turbo, a PERFECT BLACK FASTBACK WILL COME UP for sale right next door or something, and i wont have the cash to get it..... it happened once before... :disappoin

hell yes i want to do that!!, but i also wantr a 240sx fastback, this convertible is pissing me off,

i dunno weather i should turbo my convertible, or buy a fatsback

i am REALLY LOOKING to buy a fastback, and im afraid right after i turbo, a PERFECT BLACK FASTBACK WILL COME UP for sale right next door or something, and i wont have the cash to get it..... it happened once before... :disappoin

take out the stock engine, prep it for FI, buy a LESS THAN PERFECT black f/b, but one that is the PERFECT candidate, for the strengthened engine. then take the engine thats in that car, and sell it for like 400 bux.

that will give u some money to get the car PERFECT, or atleast help u do it.. i dont think there is much to get perfect after a strengthened engine and suspension/frame upgrades. that would be a sweet moment for a body kit to be slapped on after its tested/tuned.

PLEASE RALPHCARE<!

please locate me a black fastback....

i almost cried the other day when this guy didnt email me back abou the fastback, i emailed him 10 times with my fone #' ( he dint have # in the ad), then he calls me tell me its sold

FUCK HIM I HOPE HE DIES

ANYONE HAVE A BLACK fastback for sale? LESS THAN PERFETC PREFFERED! i have cash in my hands,

i also have a negative account balance

thanks for the quick reply!

so i should just run it till it blows? (my stock 111k miles one), ? do i need a rebuild before i turbo,,,,,

and should i still buy the ka form ym friend with 60k for 350$

i think i should have it, as a backup, and scicne it will be out of the car, i can do stuff to it, and prep it for turbo befor eit goes in, my stock engine will be turboed while that one is getting prepped lol..... good or bad?

This is just my personal preference, there are several ways you can go about this as I'm sure you've read. Turbo the engine you have and keep the other as a turbo build up. That way you'll only go through the pain of swapping the engines once, assuming that the built engine holds. Before you turbocharge though, you should get an EGT gauge and watch your naturally aspirated EGTs. Then you'll know about what temp you should tune for when you go turbo. Another thing to remember is that over the course of a year you'll probably only be at full boost for a matter of minutes, unless ofcourse you do a lot of racing or speeding. Under normal conditions though, the turbo won't shorten the life of the engine that much. Your oil will ash faster and the sparkplugs may foul sooner but then you just change them more frequently. Just keep the EGTs close to stock and you won't melt down. I, personally, am really leaning toward the nitrous route. It's just so much more cost effective. I have a NX Stage one bottle with about 10 lbs in it but I need the lines, silonoids, and harness. I do however feel that the turbo is more prestigious and plan to follow through with the KA-T...eventually.

Hey! You could go nitro on your convertable and still have enough for the fastback. Get a base model, its lighter than the SE.

I always liked Slivia conversions on vertibles, you would be the man if u had a ride like that lol! You could make it into a good stoplight racer or drag racer whatever lol.


for some reason the s13 silvia front end makes the convertible look about 100x better when the top is down, I hope you have seen a pic of one lol...

http://www.200sx.org/images/lowres/s13-conv.jpg

http://www.kitakyu-nissan.co.jp/oldcar/s13/con011.gif

there are a couple things that will help you run faster without engine modification...these are bushings, suspension(shock/spring) and LSD.