96 Accord Rotor Replacement

Hi, I'm a first time user here on the forum and have a question about rotor replacemtent for a 96 accord. The manual states that in order to remove the rotors you have to remove the hub which also means that you have to replace the wheel bearing. Is this true? It looks like to me, all you have to do is remove the spindle nut brake retaining screws and the 4 hub screws and the rotor would just pop off. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

HAHA!!! This is the wonderful world of the 5th gen Accord. There are just some things with this car that seem like they should be a piece of cake, when really they are a pain in the ass :biggrin: Anyways, yes, to replace the rotors on the 5th gen, the ENTIRE hub assembly needs to be tampered with. This involves removal of the hub itself, which, when done, trashes the bearing, requiring a new one (I've heard of some shifty shops- who quoted the customer on a brake job without figuring in the bearings- pressing the bearing back together with a little lube. NOT GOOD!!) Basically, to remove the hub, a "puller" device is needed, this flatout yanks the bearing apart, which allows the hub to be removed, and the rotor to be replaced. The good news, is (I believe) this only needs to be done on the front wheels. I suggest you bring it into a shop to have the work done, since it *can* be a pain. Also, check first if the rotor can be turned, you may not even need to go through the whole replacement process, since the turning is done while the rotor is still mounted.

Ok. Thanks for the info. Looks like I have a project on my hands. Luckily, I have access to a shop where I can press my hub and bearings apart. I have one more question. Does anyone know the size socket needed for the spindle nut? I can't find that spec anywhere and I don't want to take my wheel off in order to measure it. (OK, I'm a little lazy but the dumb hubcap is held on by the lugnuts).

::shrug:: i swapped my rotors and didnt replace the hub. and yes, it was a real b*tch of a job. stupid inseparable rotors... and the driveaxle hub nut (spindle nut?) is 36mm if you havent found that by now

so how'd you get the rotor off. Just take the wheel, caliper off and then beat with a hammer?

Anyways, yes, to replace the rotors on the 5th gen, the ENTIRE hub assembly needs to be tampered with.

Dammit thats just what i didn't want to hear... My brother and I stared in disbelief at the manual when it said to do all that, so I figured I'd check it out to make sure thats what we had to do. Well Im just gonna hope they can be turned.

I've got the factory service manual for the 96 and it just shows removing the entire hub from the knuckle. Then replace the rotor and bolt the hub back onto the knuckle. The local Honda garage also said that they don't ruin the bearing and don't mess around with any bearing preload, etc. Just press the hub off, replace rotor and bolt back together.

I've got my knuckle assembly out at a shop right now. We'll see how he ends up doing it.

I've got the factory service manual for the 96 and it just shows removing the entire hub from the knuckle. Then replace the rotor and bolt the hub back onto the knuckle. The local Honda garage also said that they don't ruin the bearing and don't mess around with any bearing preload, etc. Just press the hub off, replace rotor and bolt back together.

I've got my knuckle assembly out at a shop right now. We'll see how he ends up doing it.

If you got the knuckle assembly off, you are 75% done. Just remove the 4 bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the knuckle and remove the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the bearing.

go to this url for an exploded view of the front brakes
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1996&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FRONT+BRAKE+%281%29

This should make it easier to see how it goes together.

That's a similar breakdown photo that they use in the factory Honda service manual. What they don't mention is that when you unbolt the bearing from the backside of the knuckle, it doesn't just come out. It's pressed into the knuckle. The service manual lists this as the method for replacing the rotor. Where they leave you hanging is that they just say remove 4 bearing bolts then remove the hub/bearing assembly, no details on how to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I thought and it looks like the whole assembly would just come apart after it's unbolted and it will not.

I took both knuckle assemblies with my new rotors to a buddy that runs a nice shop. They leave the bearing assembly in place on the knucle and press out the hub/rotor assembly. Remove the 4 bolts from the outside of the hub that hold the rotor to it, replace rotor, clean and repack bearings then press back together with the CORRECT bearing preload.

He's ASE certified and has all the correct specs to do it this way online. He said they have done several of these on Honda's and Toyota's. The critical item is the bearing preload when putting it back together.

Dropped them off at noon and picked them up after work and he only charged $20.

Car finally stops smoothly, no more wobbles coming to a stop.

Sweet, I'm finally done with the brakes on this *&@ $#@% thing!!!!!!

Just a few notes from my experience.

I did not have to remove the steering arm.

I also had a very hard time removing the hub. To accomplish this I loosened the 4 bolts on the inside and had to pound them with a hammer each about 5 times rotating until the whole hub assembly came out.

I did flatten 1 bolt a little but but it wasn't anything a file could'nt fix.

I hope my notes help someone. The diagrams provided here saved me.

The first rotor took 3 hours but the 2nd one only took about 1.5 hours

The following diagram helped alot.

http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconnect/technicalservices/downloads/3501.pdf

Flaps30.