Clear Coat

is Krylon Clear Coat a good one for model cars, cuz i dont even know if its laquear based or not and i surely dont want my model to turn yellow.

thank u

I have not had any problems with Crystal clear - yellowing or otherwise, but I also keep my finished models in display cases out of direct sunlight. UV exposure is the main cause of yellowing.

Some guys swear by PlastiKote clear, but it always wrinkles my paint. I've tried it a couple of times, always over PlastiKote paint, with the same results. Besides, take a look at the bottled PlastiKote clear, it yellows in the bottle, so it'll probably yellow on your model.

I prefer the Krylon. Tamiya clear is good stuff too, just don't apply it over Testors enamel! The Krylon has worked well for me over every paint I've used - Testors, PlastiKote, Odds n Ends, Short Cuts, Tamiya, Diplicolor, Zynolite, Plastikote engine enamel, Zynolite engine enamel and Duplicolor engine enamel - no problems yet!

HTH,

Tim D.

Oh, and Krylon is apparently a modified acrylic enamel. It has a lot of the properties of lacquer, but it isn't.

Tim D.

Is it safe if sprayed over laquer paint ex: Tamiya sprays?

Yup, I tried Krylon Crystal Clear over:
Testors enamel, PlastiKote lacquer, Odds n Ends, Short Cuts, Tamiya lacquer, Duplicolor lacquer, Zynolite lacquer, Plastikote engine enamel, Zynolite engine enamel and Duplicolor engine enamel

I hate Krylon i think it sucks ass!:mad: Glad i have my air brush, and Dupont paint so i dont have to deal with cheapy spray bombs.:smile:

And to think I bought my airbrush to save money on paint. Never thought of totally blowing my budget to buy seriously hazardous paints.

Hey, airbrushed Dupont is great, but it's really expensive and really dangerous stuff. Okay, I'm old and think about things like that.

Personally, I don't use my airbrush as often as I should, since clean up time seriously cuts into ttime I could spend building or painting, or sleeping, or........

Whether Krylon sucks or not, it still does the job.

Tim D.

Originally posted by tdoty


.....Whether Krylon sucks or not, it still does the job.

Tim D.

So do you like having shitty models then? I like to have nice looking quality models, idk anout you, AnYa Dupont is expensive, (to you not me) its does an awesome job, and i wear a special paint mask when painting, and is no more dangerous than your krylon. But it is harder to find. I'm saying there is much better spray cans than Krylon.

Okay, I'm going to tone this down a bit before we get into a yelling match - even though I can't hear you typing anyway.

Basically, a spray can can be just as effective as an airbrush for solid colors (and clear) provided one knows how to use it. I tend to prefer a decent spray can over an awesome airbursh paint, since I can polish either one. The clean up with the Krylon is almost absolutely zero - turn the can upside down and count to 3. I've never had any issues with polishing Krylon clear - not that I use clear coats all that often.

You have a special mask for shooting Dupont clear, all I have to do is open the garage window and spray my Krylon. I don't have to worry about using it within a certain time of mixing - my first can of Crystal Clear lasted me 2 years, my last can is going on 6 months. 3 bucks a can for 8 or 10 models, not bad odds for me. There are no laws that I know of regulating it's use.


Maybe the Krylon isn't the best for the job, but it works, and I do know how to handle a spray can - or an airbrush. I'm by no means a great painter, but the end result is passable - on the rare ocassion I actually get around to finishing something.

An airbrush and Dupont - Black Gold, LMG, whatever - paints aren't the only way to go. Being in the business would certainly cut the cost of the Dupont paints. Unfortunately, I work in an injection molding facility, and, being divorced with 3 kids, 2 cars, rent and other bills to pay, $52,000 a year doesn't go all that far. Modelling is a hobby for me, not an investment, so cheap is good.

If you want to spend the money to build models that blow away my "shitty" work, go for it. I can't justify it.

Tim D.

http://modelcartech.com

I agree! Doesn't matter what you use, its 90% skill , 10% paint.

so any kind will do? great now i can clear coat all my lowriders i painted with flat TESTORS enamels

this may be a little off the subject ..but i bought tamiya wax, what is this compound stuff i keep hearing about, i looked in teh FAQs and it says that the coupound si what gives it teh great finish?

Originally posted by tdoty
Yup, I tried Krylon Crystal Clear over:
Testors enamel, PlastiKote lacquer, Odds n Ends, Short Cuts, Tamiya lacquer, Duplicolor lacquer, Zynolite lacquer, Plastikote engine enamel, Zynolite engine enamel and Duplicolor engine enamel

tdoty - Tim, how long did wait before you spray the clear over the Tamiya lacquer? The normal drying time in between colour coats (~20 mins) or did you wait till the colour coat cured before clearing with Krylon.

i don't agree with the "90% skill, 10% product" estimation.

while skill certainly is a HUGE factor in producing a great finish, crap in equals crap out, so no matter what your skill set, a poorly designed/produced spray will not help you in any way to make a nice(er) model.

call me conservative, but i stick to TAMIYA, plain and simple. they're stuff works, period. it may be expensive and seem to run out way too quick, but the results are well worth it, IMHO.

modelling isn't a cheap hobby! a nice result is the combination of skill, patience, time and $$$

Originally posted by chaos


tdoty - Tim, how long did wait before you spray the clear over the Tamiya lacquer? The normal drying time in between colour coats (~20 mins) or did you wait till the colour coat cured before clearing with Krylon.
Are you saying that the clear is supposed to be sprayed while the paint (color) is still wet?? does that work well?
One more question: Is Tamiya clear safe over tamiya's own decals?

No you spray clear after the paint dries, and no its not 90% skill 10% paint, it takes alot a skill, but you also need good quality paints to make a good model, (paint anyway) People, read the FAQ!!!! or do a search on how too, actually there is a sticky on it, look in there to answere yuor questions. It says it all there.:rolleyes:

Originally posted by hobbes874

Are you saying that the clear is supposed to be sprayed while the paint (color) is still wet?? does that work well?
One more question: Is Tamiya clear safe over tamiya's own decals?

Not sure. I asked cos when using Duplicolour - they say to spray the clear 20 minutes after the colour coat.

You mean I've been doing this wrong for 24 years? Forget skill, just spend loads of money on materials? Okay, in case you missed it - that's sarcasm.

I've seen some real shit with a high price tag on it - does that mean it's good shit? No.

I've seen people waste a lot of money on materials, and, not having the basic skills, end up with crap.

Yes, the 2 and 3 part clear systems are the ultimate finish - but not every modeler wants to spend the money on them, and not every model (or modeller) needs them. Honestly, I don't use a clear coat unless I really need it for the model at hand.

I also hear lots of people talking about basecoat/clearcoat finishes being the absolute best finish. Does anyone know why basecoat/clearcoat became popular in 1:1 finishing? Because it takes less skill to apply. Seriously, the automakers fell in love with it because it takes less training to apply a flat finish and clear coat over it. Besides, it takes no real maintenance in the real world. Still think basecoat/clearcoat is the absolute best option? Take a look at the 14-15 year old cars from the "early days" of factory basecoat use. The clear peels off. Take a look at most 2-5 year old repair jobs, the clear peels off. It's a money saver for the automakers, so they use it, and it gets crammed down the throats of painters everywhere.

Skill and craft will get you much further. I also would like to say, spend what you can afford on materials, the better materials you use, the better your results are likely to be - but the price of the materials is no guarantee.

Now, on to the specifics of Krylon and such. ALWAYS wait for the paint to dry before applying Krylon clear! The Krylon clear requires skill to apply - very, VERY light coats are needed. If you apply it and it looks white, you're in for a bumpy ride - literally.

With Tamiya clear, you're absolute best option is to apply it over Tamiya paint, within 30 minutes of applying the color. Dunno how Tamiya works over their decals, they don't offer many kits that interest me - I'm an old American guy with little interest in Japanese cars. American cars provide my livelihood, and the only Japanese cars I deal with are built in the US anyway (the company I work for is a supplier for Mitsubishi - and the Mitsubishis are built in Bloomington/Normal, Illinois - bout an hour from here).

Modelkid: You say there are better spray can paints on the maket than Krylon. Where and what? Tamiya clear does not work well over enamels and tends to lift from PlastiKote and Duplicolor paints - even their own sometimes. The PlastiKote clear has not worked for me - even over PlastiKote paints. I've tried it with an airbrush AND from the spray can. Duplicolor's nozzles suck, IMO. Yes, an airbrushed multi-part clear is the best option, but far from the ONLY option. Sorry if I offended a modelling god here.

As for Tamiya spray cans - their nozzles are awesome, and the paints are great too. Too bad they're expensive, hard to find and limited in colors. I use them, just not as often as I'd like to.

And that's about all I've got to say about that.

Peace and Happy Modelling to all!

Tim D.

Im not in this fight but i wanted to answer the original question.... remember that one? on many models i have used Krylon High-Gloss Acrylic Satin Finish (I know this sounds wrong high-gloss satin fin but thats what its called)in a spray-can. yes it works great and it is non-yellowing. it needs to be buffed with compound then waxed but results are good! and easy to work with! take the cap of and spray. yes i have a Paasche single-action, Paasche compressor, put i rarely use it for the clear coat. on when it is a complicated body like exotics or Veilside type bodys when i need more control but for basic use and a little buffing spray can clear works fine.

I'm not getting in this fight neather but both camp have good things to learn. Be more open mind. Try it before blasting it ! Never say "my finish is better than yours". It'not friendly at all.

But in those fight you can learn a lot. Really, tamiya clear over a 20 minute waiting job ? I always wait for a week to get the solid coat really dry !! I have to try to shoot when it's still wet ! See, still learning, and I'll try it, seriously so I can make up my mind and I'll find the way it work best for me.

For the decals issue, the Clear of Tamiya (X22) goes on every kind of decal (or paint for that matter even enamel... but it takes 6 or 7 coat to obtain a gloss finish 'cuz the first 2 or 3 coat react poorly and don't shine at all), but go with a very light coat at first, wait a 24 hrs, then a second light coat, wait, then the heavy coat. If you don't do this, damage can occur.

I never said his finish was better than mine, i just said that from my experiances with krylon it sucks. That might be just me but i always had bad luck with it. :frown: Yes Dupont automotive paint is extremly expensive for other people, but i swear theres got to be a better product out there for the same price as Krylon. I havrd some good things about Dupli-color.

yeah dupli-colour is really good if your using automotive paint, you can get great big 400ml cans that last for ages. Their 2 stage clear laquer is perfect for metallic paints and polishes up really well. Havent used it over tamiya paint or decals but ive heard that it works ok. This is my boxter that was done with dupli colour Vauxhall Miami Blue with dupli colour laquer:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/315007boxter-back.jpg

how about Duplicolor clear? will it work on all paint?

Originally posted by BaNe
how about Duplicolor clear? will it work on all paint?
Only on other lacquer paints. I tried it over Testors enamel and it just dissolved it.

And Modelkid has nailed what I've been saying! Basically, what works for you may not be best for me. By the same token, what works for me may not be the rule for you.

Danny was asking about the Krylon clear, I answered. Then I get told my models are shitty because I'm not spending enough money on materials? Go figure.

I can't stand Testors enamels myself - or at least their spray cans. But guys like Chris Roldan lay down some of the most awesome finishes you will see anywhere! With what? Testors rattle cans! Tell me again it's materials and not skill................

I ain't fighting, I'm just making a point to the few people paying attention. Try everything you can! Practice the basic skills! Luckily, a few people got it. The reason I say I'm not fighting? I'm not changing his mind, he's not changing mine. Simple as that. Opinions are good things - as long as you're not convinced that your opinion is the only one that matters.

Tim D.

:rolleyes: Okay, now for my question, I know i probably sound like an idiot to you guys and girls, but im very new to using spray cans/airbrush on my models, i have been building models for several years now, but used to drybrush the bodies and everything, I have NEVER, NEVER used clear coat before, I recently started building a Tamiya Peugeot 206 WRC, it has A LOT OF DECALS, I am going to spray the body with Tamiya White Primer as soon as i get a can, then spray it with a rattle can of Tamiya Pure White. Then apply the water slide decals, now my question is, what type of clear coat do I use, and can I use it over the decals? I bought myself a can of Testors Clear coat, and was going to use that, but I no most of you swear by Tamiya products and are agains testors. Can i use this clear coat over my Tamiya paint and Tamiya decals, will it stick? provide a show quality shine? Im not really sure what to do here, help me out please??:frown:

The Testors clear will yellow! It will literally turn yellow over time.

I don't normally do a lot of decalling, so I can't say for certain what clear will work over Tamiya's decals, though many seem to have good luck with Tamiya clear.

Tim D.

Originally posted by SonyMobile
:rolleyes: Okay, now for my question, I know i probably sound like an idiot to you guys and girls, but im very new to using spray cans/airbrush on my models, i have been building models for several years now, but used to drybrush the bodies and everything, I have NEVER, NEVER used clear coat before, I recently started building a Tamiya Peugeot 206 WRC, it has A LOT OF DECALS, I am going to spray the body with Tamiya White Primer as soon as i get a can, then spray it with a rattle can of Tamiya Pure White. Then apply the water slide decals, now my question is, what type of clear coat do I use, and can I use it over the decals? I bought myself a can of Testors Clear coat, and was going to use that, but I no most of you swear by Tamiya products and are agains testors. Can i use this clear coat over my Tamiya paint and Tamiya decals, will it stick? provide a show quality shine? Im not really sure what to do here, help me out please??:frown:
:iagree: Those are the question that I have been trying to figure out, but NO ONE will give me a strait answer!! :mad: Everyone says that Tamiya lacquer will eat away at the decals unless your careful. THEN they don't tell me how to be "careful". It's really starting to piss me off. Could someone please do a tutorial or a write up on using Clear correctly(p-man)?!?

:iagree: Same here, I have read a lot about clear coating, vs. not clear coating and polishing and waxing and what not, but no one has been able to give me the answers im looking for :thumbsdow I am trying to do a good job on this model and so far, its all that i have hoped for, but I would really appreciate a little help from the experts, I have used decals on cars before but they seem to chip and fall off, I never put clear coat on them, just paint+waterslide decal.... maybe this is a question i should ask fellow WRC builders? SOMEONE HELP PLEASE!
any help or hints or tricks or tips or whatever would be greatly appreciated.

SonyMobile