Top Studio RC213V exhaust pipe

Hi all builders,

that would be an amazing experience to join the builder community. As a detail lover, I'm working on building RC213V along with Top Studio RC213V Super detail-up set. To be honest, it's my first build, so I don't gain much experience especially working PE, resin and so on. Right now, I'm struggling with the top studio exhaust pipe, it combines the PE and resin. I'm not sure which is the best way to curl and bond the PE around the end of the pipe.

https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/0/0/9/1012009-20324-11-pristine.jpg?impolicy=og-image&label=Scale%201:12

Any guides, suggestions are more than appreciated. Many thanks

Superglue (CA) works great for this.

thanks 360Spider, I managed to make it. :)

here are some images of on going build

https://lh3.google.com/u/0/d/1mMDZKT6OzcJF9_PONwUtLj_r9RYYjz7g=w2396-h1878-iv1

https://lh3.google.com/u/0/d/1n_xiN-dXmZQ3mBgpAkGvm79p8RT8B3Es=w2396-h1878-iv1

https://lh3.google.com/u/0/d/1C7tJTNB6s9DQuPtxywL78-539HaZ-6xo=w2396-h1878-iv1

looking good so far. thanks for sharing.



Paul

Welcome to the forum Peter

Excellent start so far - I will follow your thread as this kit an detail set is next up on my build schedule -
I also have the Zero paints set and the Decalcas windscreen and the Top Studio chain set for my build.
There is a non-fogging CA zap glue that is good for PE and it doesn't "fog" or leave that "white" residue on Photo-etch - check you local hobby shop for it.

Cheers
John

so more updates, I painted more parts today, cowlings, pipes, frames...

https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/F581EDEC-121B-4B1C-AC19-0E0D77E767A2.jpeg.ac4b2f247c9751fce1f3c1ad9b952f20 .jpeg

https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/C2089F31-C42C-4CB7-9073-B3B80035D9A4.jpeg.071d23e2eec2514cc8634b31b462e5a1 .jpeg

https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/F8B7E70A-E30E-44A5-8273-6ED50D77050F.jpeg.435cdeaa29e8f1ad6469cdc338298008 .jpeg

https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/8DA8200E-3927-429B-83F5-6EDEB41BB2C0.jpeg.84f0a524501ea52958d41a41beff343c .jpeg

The heart of RC213V is on its shape
https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/D65C1861-D9E0-48D7-8B9F-54EAD3238219.jpeg.eb19a45398f5b66839440c4f20342a88 .jpeg

Rear Suspension
https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/89DDBA78-63B8-48DC-BB86-8FDDCAC3C891.jpeg.60a5756a5416b9e2ba1960917c87c01e .jpeg

https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/F8939DA4-9ADC-46B2-8041-11C8195B0100.jpeg.06fb836c6a0072964d52f445e492306d .jpeg

Testing the cowlings after I put the magnets in, that would allow the cowlings be snap on easily
https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/34D8BC6E-F930-4F6A-8620-947B714499C3.jpeg.13ac7b02794d0c9fc68fca2b6e32f598 .jpeg

Welcome to the forum Peter

Excellent start so far - I will follow your thread as this kit an detail set is next up on my build schedule -
I also have the Zero paints set and the Decalcas windscreen and the Top Studio chain set for my build.
There is a non-fogging CA zap glue that is good for PE and it doesn't "fog" or leave that "white" residue on Photo-etch - check you local hobby shop for it.

Cheers
John

Thanks for the tips. I'll check it out.

I tested the snap-on cowlings after finished the paintings.

https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/8D126E20-0650-496C-BA46-F5BFDD779CC3.jpeg.cea9a78aa4ad2b4aea5aacb7db024a59 .jpeg

Peter - your photos for the last 2 updates are not displaying?

Cheers
John

hi @John18d, images are displaying from my end.

Peter the updates from 10-23-19 and 10-24-19 are still not displaying?? you can see them because they are from your account.

Can anyone else see these photos from the last 2 updates??

Tried logging out and back in again - still cannot view photos from last 2 updates

Cheers
John

Hi John, sorry for the attachments are not displaying properly. I fixed the issues.

I applied decals to some parts today. To be honest. That was not an easy task for such a new builder like me. However what you get in the end would be more than great. Enjoying some pictures.

https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/053A9246-C0CF-4CE8-988E-19B6A3AE8634.jpeg.4e9358dd23c9718bbd1bba3390156374 .jpeg

https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_10/64F285C9-3E91-4D0D-8DE7-CC25FBA60FC7.jpeg.740d718f0fd898109f26fcd146e8b749 .jpeg

Thanks Peter

the build is really coming along well Peter

Cheers
John

Thanks John. This is my first build so I could not expect so much perfections in it. Just try my best to build it. :)

Peter the paint work and decals are well done.

are you using Tamiya paints for the small parts like the engine or are you using "Mr. Color"

The engine looks great - did you use the Top Studio clutch ?

Very well done for someone that is a beginner

Cheers Peter
John

Peter if you choose to clearcoat the body work and you use 2K clear then airbrush very thin "tack" coats first 2 or 3 coats before you try to apply a thicker "flow" coat that looks really glossy.
2K clear is very chemically reactive and gets hot when it cures - This can cause the decals to melt okay - so for the first 2 or 3 coats of 2K clear just "mist" it on with an airbrush so that the decals get sealed under the misted clear and give it a day to cure before you apply the flow or wet coat of 2K clear.
You have done an excellent job so far I would hate to see the decals damaged by a heavy coat of 2K clear.

Cheers Peter
John

John, I use the mr color for everything of my build, to be host, that mr colors are great. And only the accent wash is from tamiya ;)

Yeah the clutch is from the Top Studio Super detail up set. Can't image that brings such a super detail level like that.

Peter which paints are you using?

for the bodywork and also the small parts?

Which brand and which colors?

Did you use the Tamiya maskings for the body work?

Very impressive for beginner - this can be a difficult kit with the Repsol livery

Well done so far

Cheers
John

John, yes, I used all the paints from mr hobby from base coat: mr surfacer 1000 to the main coats along with the mr level thinner. I'm thinking of using this to apply the clear coat, after that will be the polishing.

I used the masking tapes from tamiya and revell.

http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/images/item/2580/1.jpg

Peter which Mr. Color did you use for the Fluorescent orange and red?

Can you post a picture of them or can you post the "number" on the bottle.

Thank you
John

Also Peter that is a "flat" or "matt" clear - you would want to use a "gloss" clear coat for the bodywork

You cannot polish a "flat" clear into a glossy finish - you must use a "gloss" clearcoat

Cheers
John

Hi John,

Thanks for the tip. I would think we can polish it regardless the matt or gloss.

Here are the numbers:

Mr color 173 fluorescent orange
Mr color 171 fluorescent red

Thank you for the paint code numbers Peter.

You cannot polish a "matt" or "flat" clear - it will not shine like the gloss coat will - the real bike is "glossy"

I would hate to see you have to refinish the paint and decal work because you made a mistake by using a "flat" or "matt" clear.

Mr Hobby has several clearcoats in "matt" - "semi-gloss" and "gloss" - for a shined surface you need a "gloss" Peter

Ask the people of the forum -

Cheers
John

Thanks John for the comment. I would definitely use the glossy clear paint. I learned a lot from you. :)

Hi, fantastic work for a new builder! Clean and you are already using very advanced techniques. Keep it up!

A tip for forming photoetched pieces that require bending and keeping a shape. Try heating the pe part over a flame from a candle for 10 seconds or so. It will soften the material and make it less springlike and easier to form.

Hi, fantastic work for a new builder! Clean and you are already using very advanced techniques. Keep it up!

A tip for forming photoetched pieces that require bending and keeping a shape. Try heating the pe part over a flame from a candle for 10 seconds or so. It will soften the material and make it less springlike and easier to form.

Thanks Raikkobin. I would try your tip when working with PE parts. :)

Can’t imagine how hard it is to deal with little tiny things. Just a bit impatience could ruin your efforts. Not a bit update thou, just wanna show this.

https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_11/455F3EB0-E6D5-41B2-BAAB-A02B578D292C.jpeg.7d6b897c407799598ad30c86a4d7b267 .jpeg
https://content.invisioncic.com/r270037/monthly_2019_11/A59C21A7-CEB3-4C56-B8D2-4DB7EF150FF7.jpeg.5f038305a211b44dfd775ae07cdc5cf8 .jpeg

Thank you for the paint code numbers Peter.

You cannot polish a "matt" or "flat" clear - it will not shine like the gloss coat will - the real bike is "glossy"

I would hate to see you have to refinish the paint and decal work because you made a mistake by using a "flat" or "matt" clear.

Mr Hobby has several clearcoats in "matt" - "semi-gloss" and "gloss" - for a shined surface you need a "gloss" Peter

Ask the people of the forum -

Cheers
John

Hi John, so I just order the gloss super clear as your advice. Thanks for your reply.

https://www.modeldisplayproducts.co.uk/image/cache/catalog/GSI%20Gunz%20Sanzyo/Mr%20Color%20GX/gx-100-500x500.jpg

Hello Thanh - This is John from Arizona USA - We used to chat by email thru Scaleworks365 model website That was closed down a few years ago. Do you still live in Germany? Are you still building racing motorcycle models? How can I re-connect with you on the internet?
Thanks
John

Hi John, it’s been a while. I‘m glad to hear back from you. So yeah, I’m still in Germany. I haven’t built any more since. My latest project was Honda RC211V 06.

How’s it going? Are your still building something?