Would like a response today if possible

I have a 99 cummins with the #53 block. Im going to weld it Saturday, hopefully that'll work better than the jb weld I tried last time. Im going to take the turbo and possibly manifold off, that's pretty straightforward but im clueless when it comes to the heat exchanger. Looks simple enough to take off, but is there anything I should be aware of? Im assuming just top off fluids when I put it back on, but I don't want to mess anything up by missing a step. Thank you, im really hoping to hear back by tomorrow night. That's the last thing im removing before I weld the block Saturday afternoon.

I'm not familiar with the heat exchanger.
What welding process are you using? Stick with Muggy Weld rods?

Stick welder with 99 nickel rods. Im debating on if I should preheat the block or do small welds to avoid heat buildup.

Stick welder with 99 nickel rods. Im debating on if I should preheat the block or do small welds to avoid heat buildup.

Side note, if this project doesn't turn out very good I'll be in the market for a new/refurbished block. Any good websites you know of. Id hope to keep it around 3k tops, I have to sell my other dodge to pay for a block if that's the road i end up going down. And will any 5.9 block work? I've heard I need another #53 block, I've heard I could put one from an 05 pickup in there. Long blocks and short blocks, im pretty unsure of what I would need. If I shell out that much money I need to be sure I get the right one.

This looks interesting,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yopcz-IYDyQ

For a replacement block, you'll need a Dodge Cummins, 1998.5-2000 to get the proper crankshaft position sensor mounting hole to avoid the Check Engine light issues.
I think you be fine with your weld.

Well, how did it go?

For a replacement block, you'll need a Dodge Cummins, 1998.5-2000 to get the proper crankshaft position sensor mounting hole to avoid the Check Engine light issues.
I think you be fine with your weld.

You need the crankshaft position sensor so the injector pump knows it's squirting correct in relation to the crankshaft position.

Engines torn down and cleaned up. The crack isn't open enough to see. I tried putting that leak detection dye in it and used a compressor to add pressure but couldn't get enough to find it. My last resort is going to be to put a torch to the block and see if heat will get it to open up and become visible, at least so I can mark it to weld it in the right spot. I have a good idea where the crack is, but since it was leaking through a weak spot in the jb weld in not sure of the exact spot.

If I can't find the crack with a torch I will end up doing the jb weld again and just never tow another trailer with that pickup since that's why it failed the first time.

If anyone's curious, before using jb weld on an engine block use acetone to clean any diesel oil or any other residue off. My very first attempt I used iso alcohol that my friend suggested but turns out alcohol does something to jb weld that keeps it from hardening.

Took 8 days and 4 somewhat thin layers of jb weld but I think old blue is ok. Got the engine re assembled. Didn't go very far, but I got to operating temperature and everything was holding tight. Tomorrow will be the first real test, im taking it to town which is about 140 miles round trip.

Best of luck to you, I hope it holds!

Went to town and back. No leaking as far as I can tell. The radiator and overflow were both at the same level as when I left. I guess only time will tell for how well it will hold. I do know I will probably never tow with that pickup though, im pretty sure extra heat and pressure on the water jacket would make the jb weld fail.