Geo Metro 1.0L Engine + XFi Transaxle

Complete engine with manifolds, throttle body, etc., and 5-speed transaxle.
$175 plus shipping from 48152 (would prefer local pickup).
I pulled this from my '92 Metro before scrapping the car due to bad structural rust.
Here in excruciating detail is the history of this powertrain, from the extensive records I kept.
The car had 235k miles on it at the time I scrapped it, but this was not the original engine (the transaxle is). So the engine is not the XFi spec (it has three piston rings per cylinder, not two like the XFi).
The transaxle IS the original XFi unit, so it has the taller final drive ratio (I saw as high as 58 honest mpg in that car, and close to 50 was typical in town).
I will also be putting the 12" rims from this XFi on here for sale, so look for those. They have the correct size Yokohama tires on them with some miles left to go.
At 176k miles (~60k ago), the original XFi motor cracked a piston skirt (the bottom ring land broke and the oil control ring was flopping around), so I installed this JDM engine. So I put about 60k miles on the engine. I figure it probably has 120k+ total, but this means little as I've done a lot of work to it since then (read on).
The clutch was also replaced at that time, so it has about 60k miles on it.
This is a JDM engine purchased from an outfit on the west coast. They stated that their engines had no more than xx miles on them - I don't remember the exact claim but I think it was less than 80k, for what it's worth.
At 176k (car odometer, thus the zero-mile mark for me with this motor) I put a new Bosch oxygen sensor on it.
At 213k (~22k ago) compression was low (burned valves) so I put a reman cylinder head on it, with Fel-Pro gasket (the one with the larger oil return passages), new timing belt, front cam and crank seals, new thermostat (the correct Suzuki one with jiggle pin) and a reman water pump. I also cleaned out the EGR passages in the manifolds.
At 223k it got a new Bosch distributor cap and rotor and a new PCV valve.
At 225k (~10k ago), compression was low again, especially in the #3 cylinder. This turned out to be rings/cylinder bores. So, as long as I was going in to do a ring job, I did the rod bearings, and I bought a head from Mike at 3Tech in Ontario. I got his "Economy" head, with 10 degree advance cam timing gear. Cylinder bores were honed using a BRM Flex-Hone and their honing oil. I researched the correct rotational/linear honing speed, so as to obtain the correct cross-hatch pattern. Cylinder walls were cleaned thoroughly with soapy water, then lubed well prior to assembly. A new timing belt and tensioner was installed. All the EGR passages were cleaned again (I've learned these are what kills valves on these cars, if not cleaned out).
Oil has been changed faithfully every 5,000 miles. I used Castrol GTX oil and NAPA Gold (Wix) filters exclusively.
At 235k, as I said, the front end of the car started looking really scary, so I pulled the powertrain and scrapped it. I was thinking I'd get a clean solid body and repower it, but my project days are over, I think.
I have a lot of receipts for parts, etc. and logs of work done pertaining to this engine.
I pulled the engine some time in 2012 and it's been in my shed since. I winterized it prior to storage, drained the fluids, and sealed up all the air/exhaust openings.
Thanks.
Schlock in Michigan

Price reduced to $300 - see above.

Edited again. Price reduced to $250. Gotta clean out my shed!

Edited again. Price reduced to $225.

Still available! $200 for this good-running engine & trans!

$175. Make me an offer. Hate to scrap this good-running power train...