A/C and Heat issues with 02 LS V6...HELP

Hello,

This is my first post after lurking for a while trying to find a solution to my problem. I have a 2002 LS v6 and my air only seems work while underway. It blows ambient temp at idle but once underway it cools off. I also just found that my heat isnt working. I just got the car and found that one of the coolant hoses wasnt clamped well so I lost coolant and I'm sure some air got into the system. The mechanic that fixed it bled the system from a screw in the front middle of the motor but theres no telling how good of a job he did. I also tried running the diagnostics but I'm not sure I did it right. I got a code of 1263. No P or any other letter just 1263. I cant seem to lock down if thats a Panel/floor door circuit fail or a #3 cylinder short. The car runs very well so I'm leaning towards the panel issue. I've read all the stories about the DCCV valve so I'm leaning this way but my air works...so someone please help.

'P' diagnostic codes are for the Powertrain. The codes from the climate control self test would have a prefix of 'B' for Body if read by a scan tool. The 'B' is left off for the self test.

The B1263 is defined in the service manual as "Panel door actuator circuit failure." The typical function of that door actuator would not seem to make sense as the cause of your symptoms though. I think going down the path of trying to bleed the system again is more reasonable (and less expensive). The bleed procedure has been posted on this forum previously.

-Rod

'P' diagnostic codes are for the Powertrain. The codes from the climate control self test would have a prefix of 'B' for Body if read by a scan tool. The 'B' is left off for the self test.

The B1263 is defined in the service manual as "Panel door actuator circuit failure." The typical function of that door actuator would not seem to make sense as the cause of your symptoms though. I think going down the path of trying to bleed the system again is more reasonable (and less expensive). The bleed procedure has been posted on this forum previously.

-Rod

Rod,

Thanks for your help with this. I took the car to MY mechanic this weekend and after he expressed his hate for LS/S-types he proceeded to check my cooling system. He pressure tested for leaks and bled the system from the heater bleed screw. The heat started working while bleeding at idle but stopped again after I started driving. He didnt do anything with the engine bleed screw so after I read the bleed procedure I tried pulling it but it just turned in place. I dont want to break it and cause a bigger problem but I'm gonna need heat here soon. I can bleed from the heater and get heat but it doesnt last. Any suggestions? Does starting the bleed procedure from the engine bleeder make that big of a difference?

If you can position the car to where the heater bleed screw is the highest point of the cooling system and get the car to temp enough that the DCCV is flowing coolant through the heater cores you might be able to get all the air to escape that way. You could also jumper the electrical connector for the DCCV to force it to flow coolant, as long as your DCCV is functioning properly.

It's also possible that you have a sticky DCCV the may not work reliably which could contribute/cause your heat issues.

-Rod

If you can position the car to where the heater bleed screw is the highest point of the cooling system and get the car to temp enough that the DCCV is flowing coolant through the heater cores you might be able to get all the air to escape that way. You could also jumper the electrical connector for the DCCV to force it to flow coolant, as long as your DCCV is functioning properly.

It's also possible that you have a sticky DCCV the may not work reliably which could contribute/cause your heat issues.

-Rod

so park on a downward incline and try to bleed from heater bleed?

or I could just pull the plug up as high as possible....LOL sometimes I'm half an idiot.