want to buy airbrush for automotive paint

06-06-2015, 08:48 AM
hello every one, i would like to buy an airbrush for automotive paint, Please help me where i can find it. I went to online , there are many , but i don' t know which one ? thank you

06-06-2015, 08:53 AM
[font=arial]hello every one, i would like to buy an airbrush, Please help me where i can find it. I went to online , there are many , but i don' t know which one ? thank you From many airbrush badger airbrush are best. Babger gravity feed airbrush allows you to spray close to your work at a lower pressure...providing a tight line control, as well as the versatility of a 2" spray pattern. I'd recommend you badger airbrush and compressor, which will allow you to adjust the airflow to the desired pressure.
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Happy Airbrushing!

06-06-2015, 11:49 AM
hello every one, i would like to buy an airbrush for automotive paint, Please help me where i can find it. I went to online , there are many , but i don' t know which one ? thank you


I'm using Harder&Steenbeck evolution 2in1
I also have a Badger 150 but i'm not satisfied with this one.
The evo is the best i've had and think still is.

good luck


06-06-2015, 02:29 PM
I have a Harder&Steenbeck evolution 2 in 1 and they are very good. Other good brands I know are Iwata, Paashe and Badger, but there are probably other brands to. If you have an arts store close to you, they will have pistols that are more than good enough for modelling.
What every do, take a full metal airbrush pistol because plastic parts wil disolve in automotive thinners. I prefer gravity fed over siphon fed.
Equaly important is a compressor with a good filter, moisture trap and pressure controle. Also take a compressor with a tank. That is the only way to get a constant airflow. Tankless compressors "stutter". You don't have to buy a compressor form a airbrush brand. If you're handy you can make a compressor out of an old refrigeratorcompressor but an industrial compressor can work also, altough they are loud.
A good setup will cost you several 100's of dollars but if you maintain the pistol and compressor, they will function for years and years.

06-06-2015, 03:50 PM
If you're going to be spraying automotive paint, one thing you will want to make sure of is the airbrush you purchase should have solvent proof packings, or O-rings. I have an Iwata NEO airbrush and the O-rings broke down due to the solvents used in automotive paints. Most of the better airbrushes have solvent proof packings, but it's best to check before buying.

06-07-2015, 02:28 AM
Morale - read what was posted by wouter1981

Then check out this website here in the USA


There are many things that are important to consider before spending your hard earned dollars. first off you will need a small compressor with a tank - find a nearby Harbor Freight and wait until they have a small 1/5 HP oil-less compressor with 3 gallon tank on sale - you should be able to get one with a regulator and a moisture trap for $49.99 - then get the "best" filter mask for painting you can. Harbor Freight has these for about $25-30 - DO NOT THINK YOU CAN BUY THOSE CHEAP WHITE DUSK MASKS THAT CAN BE PURCHASED FOR A FEW BUCKS - It is NOT worth getting COPD and suffering terribly later in life because you were foolish and tried to save $25-30. This Hobby is NOT worth dying for. This point I am making is even more crucial if you plan to spray Automotive finishes. If cost is a concern then I recommend the "Master" brand of airbrushes available through TPC Global website - I have several of their airbrushes with 3 various size "Cups" "Needles" "Jets" all in one box for a reasonable price. I find that buying an airbrush this way makes one airbrush more versatile because one airbrush purchase will give you lots of options compared to an airbrush that only has 1 cup / needle /jet. Also I have found that the "Master" brand is every bit as good as my Iwata airbrushes. There are different types of airbrushes available - some are "dual" action some are "single" action and some are "trigger" style. Airbrushes also come with different "Cup" sizes depending on how much "substrate" you intend to airbrush. Then there is "siphon" feed which sucks the substrate up from the "cup" or there is "gravity" feed where the "cup" is above the airbrush body and gravity does the work of feeding the substrate. Depending on your skill level and how fast you can learn to airbrush depends on which type you should be considering when you are ready to make a purchase for an airbrush. Then there are different size "needles" and "jets" to consider - they range from 0.18mm - 0.8mm and larger. I have different airbrushes for different purposes and the needle/jets range from 0.18-0.8 mm. You need to use the appropriate type of airbrush / needle / jet based on what you are airbrushing. Needle and Jets size is dependent on the viscosity of the "primer" "Paint" "Clear" you are going to spray - also the volume of each of these you need to spray at one time should determine how big of a airbrush "cup" size you need. I ONLY use "Gravity" feed type airbrushes because I find they deliver the best finishes for my skill and ability. I use a 0.18 - 0.2 needle/jet for airbrushing very small parts or when I am trying to "shade" or weather something and the substrate is very watery - then a 0.3 - 0.5 for paint depending again on how big the part and how thick the paint is - milk like thickness. Lastly I use either a 0.5-0.8 for spraying "Clears" - I only use automotive finishes on my models. REMEMBER - with airbrushing as any other type of "finishing" use multiple thin layers NOT THICK ONES - if you get a flaw like a speck of dust or hair etc it is always easier to repair and repaint when the layers are thin. Most "newbies" fail to follow this rule. Also you need to get a book to explain airbrushing techniques so that you can practice them - these books can be had cheap on USA eBay - $10-25 and one book can give you a lot of information. Just remember you need a book on "how" to airbrush NOT how to do murals on cars or airbrush T-shirts etc. You need to consider "what" type of finishes you want to spray?? Automotive or other - then the type - lacquers - enamels - urethanes - acrylics - etc ?? You need to consider what it is you want to airbrush and then use products that are compatible and in the correct order to achieve the desired result you are looking for. Look on the internet or check with your local hobby shop if there is a model building club in your area - Most clubs have people more than happy to give advice or demonstrate examples of how and what to do. If there is no local club then there are plenty of great model builders here on this forum that will be more than willing to answer questions you might have. Spend some time doing research on various types and brands of the products you will need and figure out the startup costs to airbrushing - if you're not going to build more than 1 or 2 models or the final finish does not have to be contest quality then definitely factor in the cost of things and the finishes themselves because this can easily get out of cost control. If after all this you still want to do airbrushing then I strongly recommend a mini hobby spray booth. You can get one on eBay USA for about $70 including shipping. I have found that a "horizontal" flow spray booth will work just fine - My experience with 1:1 automotive painting is that a "downdraft" vertical booth is better, but they are NOT easy to setup on a desk or bench. If you have any other questions please send me a PM "private message" or if you do not know how to do that then just post another question and I am very sure there will be answers posted for you. Welcome to the BEST model forum on the internet and Good luck with the airbrushing.


06-07-2015, 11:29 AM
Can't go wrong with the iwata CR or CS, or Kuston CS.

06-07-2015, 11:58 AM

Oh come on, guys.

So frick and frack above, who are both claim to be residents of beautiful california, California, both join AF yesterday. They post (in matching broken English) a fairly transparently contrived inquiry and answer as an excuse to post an address for a retailer. And we take him seriously?

I really appreciate that you guys are giving useful, well thought out, genuine, and helpful answers. That is awesome, and it really does make AF one of the very best modeling communities anywhere. But I'm pretty sure that our friend above isn't here for that.

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