1/24 Cars on Display Bases

03-23-2015, 12:46 AM
Hello I'm new to this forum (even though I check in here from time to time as a outsider to check peoples amazing work) and thought I'd post a question I've been wondering and cannot seem to find an answer to.

I do a bit of 1/24 model car kits and have about 15 so far. I've got 1/24 display cases for most of them and the method I used to keep the models on the acrylic base was glueing the tires onto the base with superglue. While effective its not the cleanest of methods and melts the rubber slightly :(

Then I thought of using magnets but is there a simpler way of keeping the models down onto a plastic display base? Most of the cars are low but there's some with a cm clearance from chassis to plastic base and blue tack would look too obvious .

03-23-2015, 08:06 AM
Welcome to the forum!

What kind of acrylic bases are you using? That would make a big difference on how I'd solve this problem.

I have to admit, that's a problem I've not had to deal with. My builds all live in an enclosed glass door bookshelf from Ikea. They tend to stay put very well in there.

If I had to secure a model to a surface, I would do it in a adjustable/non-permanent kid of way. I certainly wouldn't glue a model down. Some thoughts for how I might do it, depending on your display surface:

-Velcro. There's not a lot of space under most 1/24 models, and a spot of black velcro would be practically invisible if placed under the center of the car. Glue one side to the underside of the chassis, and one side to the base.

-Wheel chocks. Chocks are wood or heavy rubber blocks used to block a wheel from rolling. We use them when parking airplanes. They are also often used on emergency vehicles (it's awkward when your unattended fire engine rolls away), and even sometimes in car dealerships and show areas. Cut some out of wood or plastic strip (or even sprue), and glue them down to the base- you only really need to do one of the rear wheels. Now your model has a parking space it won't roll away from. Image search if you want to see what real ones look like, if you want them to have an accurate scale look.

-Mounting stud. Drill a small (say 1/8" or so) diameter hole in your base, and then glue in place a short length of dowel or rod (again, you could use a piece of sprue) so that it protrudes a half inch or so. Then drill a similar (slightly larger diameter) hole in the underside of the chassis, maybe in the fuel tank. When you park the model, place the hole in the chassis over the stud.

03-23-2015, 09:38 AM
Maybe you'll find an answer in my tutorial written some years ago:


feel free to ask questions you might have if you need détails or more informations about how I do that. ;)

03-23-2015, 09:41 AM
Thank you for the reply. I like them in display cases as my house collects quite a bit if dust plus there will be a time when I will have to move them when I move out :)

So there can't be any movement even in the display case which makes me think the Velcro idea is the best plus they're east to peel off :)

03-23-2015, 09:50 AM
velcro is a good tip too I also considered myself, but you have to deal with the fact that only tires are in contact with display base so if you want to save tires it's not so easy to put velcro (except maybe for very low car having low underchassis...?!?)

03-23-2015, 11:02 PM
Your tutorial is pretty good :)

Would a pin vise do or does it have to be a proper drill? And where would you get the nuts and bolts from that small? I have a display base already to try it out on ;) just need the nuts and bolts and pin vise - can you remember how what mm the holes were roughly so I know what pin vise (if that's OK to use) to purchase?

Hemi Killer
03-24-2015, 12:35 AM
there is something called meusem wax that is not permanent. It's to hold down small items to protect from earthquakes and stuff. Small pieces of this could be put on the tires and then removed later.

Also, something called BlueTack would work in very small amounts that would not permanently change the model.

03-24-2015, 05:58 AM
Your tutorial is pretty good :)

Would a pin vise do or does it have to be a proper drill? And where would you get the nuts and bolts from that small? I have a display base already to try it out on ;) just need the nuts and bolts and pin vise - can you remember how what mm the holes were roughly so I know what pin vise (if that's OK to use) to purchase?

Thank you for your appreciation.

I don't think you inevitably need a proper drill to open the hole, but it requires though a certain precision to have everything fitting perfectly.

I usually buy the nuts and bolts in a DIY chain store (Leroy Merlin or Castorama for those who know)

Size of holes in fact depends of the bolt/nut size you're able to find, I choose the smallest I found.
so my bolts size (and so nuts hole too) is 2mm.

Hope this helps ;)

03-25-2015, 03:16 PM
my method (i dont like damaging my models!) is simply just drill two small holes (0,2- 0,3 mm) underneath every suspension point of the car on the base! and bind it down with fishing wire pushed through one hole, loop it around the suspension arm and pull it through the other hole and bind the two ends underneath the base with a knot...repeat on every corner (or just on two! right front and left rear) and your model is secured on the base with a minimum of damage to the base and is not permanently fixed! that cant be seen! but easy and cheap! all you need is a drill bit/pinvise and some fishing wire!

when fixed you can even hold the base upside down and model wont fall off but if needed can easily removed from base, just snip the nylon fishing wire and no damage is done to your model and the holes are not really visible on the base being only 0,2 or 0,3 and because most cars in 1/24 scale have the same wheelbase you don't have to drill new holes! and cars can be changed easily!....will post pictures tomorrow soon

Sorry but posting images here is just to much hassle !...Come on AF!! there has to be an easier way than all this

03-26-2015, 05:51 PM
Sounds like a great idea with the fishing wire and doesn't require as much precision as the but and bolt method - great to see pictures to showcase an example would be much appreciated :)

04-04-2015, 11:47 PM
I use thijs37 idea for my models except I take a rubber band and loop it over one of the tires then run the band down through one hole and then up through another then over a second tire. I use a diagonal pattern so that the LF is banded to the RR and/or vice-versa. This has the advantage of securing the models to the base but reduces the the amount of damage on the parts if the case gets bumped around. And, because they bands are close to the tires, they are virtually invisible. Also, the model can easily be removed form the base with a cut of the bands. It can take a little effort to get the rubber band to cooperate, although.

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