97 pa greatest mystery!

97 pa 3800k eng will not start. it turns like it wants to but nothing.
this is what i have conformed;
fuel regulator shows pressure up to par.
fuel on the spark plugs,confirming fuel entering into chamber.
checked fuel injectors. light test. ok
checked power to icm.ok
checked crank sensor for pulse. light test. ok
checked spark in the spark plugs. ok

what am i missing that could stop the engine from starting!

i need your help!

Did you check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gage?

Did you check for spark on all cylinders, with a spark tester at the end of each wire, one at a time?

You checked for injector pulse on each injector?

Check the vac line to the f/p regulator for fuel?

Try stating the car with the MAF disconnected?

Have you been losing coolant?

Checked for codes?

*i checked fuel pressure @ regulator shreider valve test port. 29psi time of hook up-49psi trying to start.-ok
*i tested all three spark plugs in the front of vehicle(since each one went to a coil pak.-ok
*i check 3 front injectors for pulse-ok.
*as for vac line to regulator i did unplug and tested to see if fuel would come out during cranking engine-ok
*didn't do the maf disconnect test. would that give a no start?
*no coolant leak.
*didnt check for codes since light never came on. i thought light would come on if crane sensor went bad. but if i have spark that confirms a working crank sensor ,right?
* this car makes no sense at all!!!! ugghhh

Well, if you have fuel, spark and timing. All that's left is compression(unless your cat is completely plugged)

Bad MAF can cause a no start.....disconnect and try to start....then like Kat said, only thing left is compression or the engine can't breathe(plugged cat)...

Ok I'll try maf today after work.ohh how to check cat?

Ok I'll try maf today after work.ohh how to check cat?

Most cars have a test "bung" in front of the cat. Lot of times it has a tack weld on it. You can remove the "bung" and see what happens.
Another method get a helper to start and spray some starter fluid in the intake. If it won't suck the fluid in, then somewhere is plugged. I have seen cats blow their guts out and block the exhaust pipes.

Can do a back pressure test, by removing the pre O2 sensor and attaching a pressure gage.....should not exceed 1,25 psi at 2K rpms...

Or you create an exhaust leak before the cat, by loosening the exhaust pipe or removing the pre O2 sensor, and then driving the vehicle....do this quickly on a short test drive...if power returns, it's the cat....

More often than not, when a cat goes bad, or is partially plugged, it should set a P0420....

Another thing to try....with car at normal operating temp, SAFELY, from a dead start, lay into the gas pedal....if rpms top out at 3K, and the vehicle doesn't want to shift and bogs down, stop......now very, very lightly, accelerate....if the car shifts and slowly gets up to speed, it's usually a cat....

Ok I remove and cleaned with proper cleaner the maf. I also try starting the engine with the maf disconnected and no change.
After speaking with my daughter she said car was chugging and acting like it wanted to die out. Then she started rapidly flooring the pedal up and down and then it started running normal then when she pull close to the house 5 mins later it started again to chug and died in the driveway.also to note I did change crank sensor even though I knew it worked but everyone was saying to do it. Because it's the number one problem with these engines. So it made not one difference! So I have all elements to run a engine. Except not sure about air or cat. Tomorrow's last testing.

Ok I remove and cleaned with proper cleaner the maf. I also try starting the engine with the maf disconnected and no change.
After speaking with my daughter she said car was chugging and acting like it wanted to die out. Then she started rapidly flooring the pedal up and down and then it started running normal then when she pull close to the house 5 mins later it started again to chug and died in the driveway.also to note I did change crank sensor even though I knew it worked but everyone was saying to do it. Because it's the number one problem with these engines. So it made not one difference! So I have all elements to run a engine. Except not sure about air or cat. Tomorrow's last testing.
Perhaps your IAC valve is not functioning properly. The engine might be starving for air when you don't step on the gas.

I don't understand! I pulled apart hose to throttle body and sprayed some eyther. Did not even try to start. But yet I have spark! It must be starving for air. I even try pulling wires from maf again too and no change.

Iac?

Still leaning towards compression or plugged cat.

after work ill pull 02 sensor out and try starting it hopefully it that will work.

If that doesn't produce results, it might be worthwhile to pull the left (front) rocker cover and watch the rockers and flywheel. I almost hesitate to mention it, but timing may be a problem - And not just ignition timing.

ok no Change in 02 removal. i guess ill check the rocker arms. so you mean pull the valve cover off and see if its moving up and down? never do this type of troubleshooting. never had it gone this far.

Hey bow tie I believe your right. You any free online service manual to walk me through process" thank you guys for the help.

My mechanic said he it is the timing that went bad. He said oil ports are clogged pretty bad and may have been starving for oil. Does that sound right?

I had a similar problem. The solution was to take off the crankshaft sensor and use a telescopic magnet to attract any broken pieces of the old crankshaft sensor in the well. the pieces were metallic and caused the crankshaft sensor to not provide any info to the computer.