00 ram 1500 trying to remove pitman arm from gear box

ok I must be doing something wrong I have busted 2 pitman arm pullers

what I did was unloosened the nut and washer from the gearbox and then I attached the puller to pull it away from the gear box. even tried heat

what am I doing wrong since there is no instructions in the hayes book

Try using a little penetrating oil on the gearbox shank (the splined joint) above the pitman arm, let the oil soak in for a few minutes, loosen the nut, but don't remove it, then put the pitman arm puller on it and add tension until it is very snug, but not so tight that it bending, wait a few minutes, to give the penetrant time to do it's work, then give the arm a few whacks from the sides to break it loose from the shaft. Check for index marks or mark your shaft & arm to assure re-installation will be correct. Remove the nut now, then lower the steering parts.
Patience and lubrication will make this job a lot easier to finish.
A good home-made penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF. once you mix this up, keep it capped tightly when not in use to prevent evaporation

ah ok well I got it off I used the cutting torch to heat up the pitman arm for a few minutes couldn't get penetrating oil to work and then I put the pitman arm puller on and it came off but using just a propane torch didn't work wasn't hot enough. guess it was really on there ,, and then I just used anti seaze on the splins. Found out I didn't need to buy a rebuild kit, as the mechanics don't even repair them. The mechanic said u can do the repair with the gear box in the unit.

You take the C clip off and while the truck is running you turn the wheels and the pressure blows out all the seals and then you hammer up new ones without having to remove the box. as they don't bother replacing the internals go figure lol


and I guess you cap your home made penetrating oil as it would evaporate the acetone. right

and how well does that stuff work

I guess you cap your home made penetrating oil as it would evaporate the acetone. right
Yep and how well does that stuff work
It was tested against WD-40, Marvel Mystery Oil, and several other Penetrants the highest torque was like 450 Ft/Lbs versus 50 ft/lbs for this mixture.

ok when you mean compared to this mixture for foot pounds you mean the acetone /trans mission fluid is only good for bolts tigthend down to 50 foot pounds


and wd40 is good up to 450 foot pounds so hen its worth buying it then making it?

ok when you mean compared to this mixture for foot pounds you mean the acetone /trans mission fluid is only good for bolts tigthend down to 50 foot pounds


and wd40 is good up to 450 foot pounds so hen its worth buying it then making it?
No, after applying the Acetone/ ATF mixture, it only took 50 ft/lbs to break loose the chemically rusted bolt & nut. With WD-40 and the other penetrants being tested, the torque was as much as 450 ft/lbs to accomplish the same task as the 50 ft/lbs that the mixture used. Get it now?

oh ok gotcha

so how long does it take for it to soak though

as I know the acetone evaps fast too, I guess it things out tranny fluid

was told before too use tranny fluid on bolts it helps

Not long

ok ill have to try that then I got both just need to get a spray bottle

Here are references (in other Forums) to the ATF/Acetone mixture: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20131.0
(See bottom of page 1, for another mixture called "Ed's Red")
Another concoction is brake fluid & ATF
One can also Google ATF & Acetone to find more links for additional information.