Smoke coming from dash, now cluster dead

So my wife was driving home tonight and smoke started coming out from the dash. She pulled over right away turned the car off and got out... The car smells like burnt plastic....

Now that Ive checked it the whole instrument cluster is dead. No lights and no movement of needles. The needles are in the random positions (prob. where they were when it went out). Everything else with the car is fine. Drives all other lights / accessories work.

A 1st check of the fuses and they all look good. Im going to get out my multi-meter and test each one.

In the mean time if its not a fuse then Im guessing the instrument cluster shorted out and Ill need a new one correct?

Anyone else have this happen or hear of it happening? Any suspect wires that like to rub on metal and short out that I should focus on?

what year vehicle

1999 3.8 se
I checked fuses 9,16,28 and they are all good any others I should check? All the wires I can see sticking my head up under look good nothing burned looking

Do all speeds of the fan blower work correctly?

All blower speeds work in the front and back.

After more researching online Im wondering why the lights dont just work... Its completely dead no lights no gage movement. Since the PATS is part of the cluster it being fried would mean PATS is dead so the car wouldnt start... so why does the car start if the cluster is dead? Any ideas?

Could the PATS part be fine but the rest be dead? Seems a bit odd I would expect the lights to work even if the data portion is dead but I don't know much about this cluster (All I know about is the '99 Saturn clusters - from my other car)

I know you've started another string ... I wish you had not. It is easier for us all to follow on one posting. One posting for one problem.

I would suggest you spend all of effort to assure exactly what burned and correct that part. You don't want to replace parts to have them burn ...or to find they were not needed. You can buy a diagram book that is pretty easy to follow and you can make sure all harnesses are free of damage.

The PATS (passive anti-theft system) is separate from the instrument panel. It is the device that kinda looks like a hearing aid ... and its located just around where you stick the key into the key tumbler on the steering column.

On the assembly line when the battery is first installed ... there is a three-way marriage that takes place .... and programs the ignition key at the same time. I know that two of the marriage partners are the PATs and the instrument cluster. I think the third partner is the PCM (powertrain control module ... 104 pin device near RH hood hinge ...under hood.) But I may be wrong, the third partner may be the FEM (front electronic control module). I can look this up in the shop manual to be sure if you want.

But if you have access to a good bone yard .... and can get all three partners, plus a working key ... from one donor that was working when it was scrapped. You should then be good to go ... without any dealer support. But this is a lot to be lucky about.

But first you need to make sure the car isn't just gonna burn up what you put in it.

I tested all the fuses inside the car with a multi-meter using the probe points and they all test good.

Something I did notice however is that the little light on the drink holder and the lights for the AC controls no longer work either.

I talked to a mechanic friend and he says he does have the necessary scan tool to reprogram the replacement cluster if that is what it turns out to be so don't have to pay Ford atleast....

I got an AllData subscription. Reading about the PATS system it says:

he PATS uses the PCM to enable or disable the engine. The instrument cluster communicates with the PCM over the SCP communication network in order to enable engine operation. The instrument cluster and the PCM use sophisticated messages in order to prevent a theft. The instrument cluster and the PCM share security data when first installed together that makes them a matched pair. After this security data sharing, these modules will not function in other vehicles. The shared PCM ID is remembered even if the battery is disconnected. The instrument cluster also stores the vehicle's key identification code even if the battery is disconnected. There are special diagnostic procedures outlined in this workshop manual that may be performed if either the instrument cluster or the PCM needs replacement.

So from my reading of this then if its the cluster, then the easiest option would be to replace both the PCM & Instrument Cluster from a donor vehicle that I can get a key with to. Does that sound right?

I got an AllData subscription. Reading about the PATS system it says:

So from my reading of this then if its the cluster, then the easiest option would be to replace both the PCM & Instrument Cluster from a donor vehicle that I can get a key with to. Does that sound right?
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Yes, it does sound correct. (I think I would also grab the PATS transponder just to be sure. Not much addition work as you are gonna be all over the steering column anyway.)
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If your friend has that level of equipment, he can perhaps make a second key for you as well.
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Since you have AllData, you should be able to print out all the diagrams that surround the instrument cluster and the PCM. I would do a pin-to-pin continuity check on all connectors. I once found my PCM harness had rubbed in-two against the firewall ... several grounds and cross-feeds found and corrected.

If your friend has that level of equipment, he can perhaps make a second key for you as well.

Our local ACE Hardware can make a key, so if your friend can't check and see if you have one near-by...I just got one made about a month ago for $74

Our local ACE Hardware can make a key, so if your friend can't check and see if you have one near-by...I just got one made about a month ago for $74
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If you only had one, not two or more, key: and your Ace made a second one ...one that will start up the car, not just open the doors ... I am impressed! I may seek them out someday.

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If you only had one, not two or more, key: and your Ace made a second one ...one that will start up the car, not just open the doors ... I am impressed! I may seek them out someday.

Yeah, I only had one...I didn't realize until after I had Walmart make a cheap-o that it needed a special key. The one from Walmart would only open the doors...not start the car. Brought my key to ACE and they made a second one...works perfectly and sure beats the $150 or so to get one from Ford.

If you live in an area with several dealers, just call them all. I got prices from $50 to $200 for the reprogramming. (Only had one key when bought the van used.) Naturally I chose the $50 option. $50 for the reprogram and $35 or so per key (I bought two).