Clutch-transmission problem

Excuse the lingering problem. I recently installed a rebuilt engine on a 1997 Chev. s10, 5 speed. Decided to replace the clutch & pressure plate also. After bleeding the save cylinder several times, I could not get the transmissions to go into gear while the truck was running, although it would shift in all gears with truck engine off. I took transmission out again and replace the slave cylinder/throwout bearing. After bleeding 3 times I now have a full clutch, best ever, but still will not go into gear with engine running. It worked perfectly before replacing the engine.
Can any help?

Ron,
Hilton Head Islalnd:)

Excuse the lingering problem. I recently installed a rebuilt engine on a 1997 Chev. s10, 5 speed. Decided to replace the clutch & pressure plate also. After bleeding the save cylinder several times, I could not get the transmissions to go into gear while the truck was running, although it would shift in all gears with truck engine off. I took transmission out again and replace the slave cylinder/throwout bearing. After bleeding 3 times I now have a full clutch, best ever, but still will not go into gear with engine running. It worked perfectly before replacing the engine.
Can any help?

Ron,
Hilton Head Islalnd:)

We need to know if it is just dragging or not releasing at all.
With engine off put transmission in gear and hold clutch pedal all the way down and also hold brake on.
The try to start engine. if engine starts and runs it is just dragging.
If no start clutch is not releasing at all.
Dragging can be caused by bent or sticking clutch splines caused by cocking trans when installing or slay/master cylinder with air or not moving enough.
Not releasing can be bad pressure plate or even wrong pressure plate or clutch plate backwards.
Let us know if dragging or not releasing at all.

We need to know if it is just dragging or not releasing at all.
With engine off put transmission in gear and hold clutch pedal all the way down and also hold brake on.
The try to start engine. if engine starts and runs it is just dragging.
If no start clutch is not releasing at all.
Dragging can be caused by bent or sticking clutch splines caused by cocking trans when installing or slay/master cylinder with air or not moving enough.
Not releasing can be bad pressure plate or even wrong pressure plate or clutch plate backwards.
Let us know if dragging or not releasing at all.

Thank you Mt-2500. Clutch instructions advised which side went to flywheel. I will do as you advised today. Could it be the clutch master cylinder? If I take the hydraulic line off the transmission from the master cylinder, I have a very hard clutch which will not go down, indicating that the master cylinder is not leaking.

Thank you Mt-2500. Clutch instructions advised which side went to flywheel. I will do as you advised today. Could it be the clutch master cylinder? If I take the hydraulic line off the transmission from the master cylinder, I have a very hard clutch which will not go down, indicating that the master cylinder is not leaking.

Hard to say.
Trapped air is the worst problem.
On a lot of fords the master cylinder is pointed down letting air get trapped in master cylinder.
Is your master cylinder pointed down or pointing up with slay cylinder line at highest point.
Or is rear end higher than front end when you are bleeding?
How are you bleeding it?
Pumping pedal or vacuum or gravity bleeding?
Also try gravity bleeding.
Fill master cylinder leave filler cap off and go under and crack bleeder on slay cylinder.
If you get a slow drip let it drip for 3-5 hrs .keeping master cylinder full.

Hard to say.
Trapped air is the worst problem.
On a lot of fords the master cylinder is pointed down letting air get trapped in master cylinder.
Is your master cylinder pointed down or pointing up with slay cylinder line at highest point.
Or is rear end higher than front end when you are bleeding?
How are you bleeding it?
Pumping pedal or vacuum or gravity bleeding?
Also try gravity bleeding.
Fill master cylinder leave filler cap off and go under and crack bleeder on slay cylinder.
If you get a slow drip let it drip for 3-5 hrs .keeping master cylinder full.
My master cylinder is pointed straight out from the clutch rod and line goes down to the transmission. I did try to start the engine while in gear as you said, but the clutch would not release and the truck would want to move in direction whichever gear was in. I tried bleeding several more times with and without clear hose. Absolutely no air was in lines.
I do know that while installing the engine, clutch and pressure plate the first time that he did not remove the transmission, meaning that he had to install the engine at an angle as you said. After same results, he pulled the transmission and installed the slave cylinder/throwout bearing with still the same results. I've tried many times bleeding, clutch will not release. Don't know if he damaged something.
Any other suggestions other than gravity bleeding?

Many thanks,
Ron

My master cylinder is pointed straight out from the clutch rod and line goes down to the transmission. I did try to start the engine while in gear as you said, but the clutch would not release and the truck would want to move in direction whichever gear was in. I tried bleeding several more times with and without clear hose. Absolutely no air was in lines.
I do know that while installing the engine, clutch and pressure plate the first time that he did not remove the transmission, meaning that he had to install the engine at an angle as you said. After same results, he pulled the transmission and installed the slave cylinder/throwout bearing with still the same results. I've tried many times bleeding, clutch will not release. Don't know if he damaged something.
Any other suggestions other than gravity bleeding?

Many thanks,
Ron

Give the gravity bleeding a try and raise front end up as high as you can when bleeding.

If you have a good full hard clutch pedal sounds like clutch splines are bent or bad pressure plate,