5.4l 3v Spark Plug Removal Instructions

Well I finally had one come in the shop recently after not seeing them for a long time. So I decided to shoot a video on the current favorite removal method that is working for us shops out there, since there are a few videos out there but they are all of poor quality. This works about 90% of the time. It seems you will usually break one out of 8 though and for that I have a new video coming out showing in detail the extraction process made simple. I hope this helps as this can be very costly. Most shops charge a half and hour more in additional labor each plug that breaks this can really add up!

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OMG, I might be an old mechanic , But its no wonder you break the plug or pull threads, With a air hammer, at operating temP break them loose spray WD 40 and let it sit a min 5-10 ,then remove , ( by hand ) when replacing always use antisieze on aluminum heads, to keep from pulling threads the next time where do these kids come up with this stuff

Personally I think it should be a recall from Ford to replace the plugs at their cost. Bad, bad, bad plug design for those years. Why would you make a plug that so easily comes apart?. Just a small amount of carbon build up stops the threads from turning and the hex nut part of the plug snaps away from the rest of it. Anyway, the video pretty much follows the currently found best practice. I have also heard it is very helpful to run SeaFoam through the intake via the brake vacuum (following their instructions, plus good videos on youtube) gets rid of a lot of the carbon before starting the plug removal. Since Expeditions have the same engine, you might also want to post there. I have the cam phaser problem on mine and I don't like any of the videos for it. So I'll be making a video for it when I do it.
Hey, RustyDog. Yeah, it doesn't seem correct, but after thousands of snapped plugs across the country, this is the routine that works the best. I'm sure I would have snapped mine if I did it the old fashioned way and hadn't heard about this problem beforehand last year. Again, there should be a recall or reimbursement for the extra cost from snapped plug removal.

OMG, I might be an old mechanic , But its no wonder you break the plug or pull threads, With a air hammer, at operating temP break them loose spray WD 40 and let it sit a min 5-10 ,then remove , ( by hand ) when replacing always use antisieze on aluminum heads, to keep from pulling threads the next time where do these kids come up with this stuff
Yes you are using old ways. You must not know about the spark plug breakage fiasco on the 5.4l 3v. Give it a look up. Ever hear of senior master tech on youtube, check out how he does this, we all do it across the USA at the Ford Dealers because it works. The sticking issue is totally different than a corrosion issue like you are talking. I do not come up with this stuff, the FORD ENGINEERS came up with this stuff, us Ford techs just added the 3/8 impact on a warm not hot engine, and no we don't have trouble with threads coming out, just plug breakage from bad design. I have heard the Nissan Titan has the same issue. Give it a lookup and then you can come back and say your sorry for coming off like a jerk to someone who knows what they are talking about being a ford tech day in day out. Oh and I DO AGREE I would never use a impact gun of any sorts to install or remove spark plugs, this is the only exception though because it works, we all use it and never have a problem.

There is a reason Ford had to come up with a tool to extract these broken plugs on their engines and also why every tool company out there has made their own extraction tool or copied the lisle tool because it is such an issue. You will break a few and they know it. Have you ever seen a broken plug extraction tool for any other engine out there?

im not saying its not the right way for those, I know things change over the years never to old to learn something new, it just seems that if there is a bad breakage problem the impact hammer would only make things worse

im not saying its not the right way for those, I know things change over the years never to old to learn something new, it just seems that if there is a bad breakage problem the impact hammer would only make things worse
If it breaks by impact then it was going to break in the first place. The only thing that breaks off is the tip stuck in the cylinder. the thread part of the spark plug and upper portion come right out and leave the tip behind. Try this once and you will be hooked, only for this engine and this very specific problem though, cheers!

Few notes here-
-It is best to do this while the engine is warm, so after soaking the plugs overnight blow out the rest of the solvent and reinstall coils without bolts and run engine till warm.
-Also if your ignition coil boots are brown in color and not black you have the new plug design that does not have this issue.

Good info about the boot color. I've also heard a lot of people are running SeaFoam thru the intake to try and get rid of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber side before doing the plugs as well.

Good info about the boot color. I've also heard a lot of people are running SeaFoam thru the intake to try and get rid of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber side before doing the plugs as well.

I have never had any luck with that even using out BG chemical induction service. I think engine temp is the key here.