Hi all, my cam sensor on my 95 neon is done in, anyone know if its difficult to change, and pricing?? thanks

Very simple change, for SOHCs at least. I'm not sure how it is for DOHCs. Just make sure you install it pointing in the same direction. :tongue:

As far as pricing, I don't know. Sorry.

No, it isn't very difficult to replace. Just in case you aren't sure, it is found here.http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/822771Neoncamsensor.jpg

The replacement procedure is straight from the Haynes manual. They say it better than I can.

Replacement
Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

Remove the filtered air tube from the throttle body and air filter housing.

On SOHC engines, remove the air inlet tube. Disconnect the electrical connector from the engine coolant sensor and camshaft position sensor.

Remove the brake booster hose and electrical connectors from the holders on the end of the valve cover,

Remove the bolt from the camshaft sensor and lift the sensor from the rear of the cylinder head.

If necessary, remove the target magnet mounting screw and remove the magnet.

Installation is the reverse of removal. If removed, align the locating pins on the backside of the target magnet with the locating holes in the rear of the camshaft and tighten the screw securely.

Camshaft position sensor is around $35 or so from the dealer...alot less if you go to an autoparts store. In my personal opinion, I like to stick with genuine Mopar parts for electronic stuff.

Originally posted by KatWoman
...I like to stick with genuine Mopar parts for electronic stuff.

Amen to that. I made the mistake of buying autostore parts (sensors) once or twice. Never again.

Though, I'd buy a starter, alternator, fuel pump, things of that nature, from one of those places since they usually come with excellent warranties.

Ok, I got its location down pat, but heres another issue....see my buddy and I changed my headgasket and timing belt. and it was directly after this that thy're is no signal to the cam sensor. So is it possible that something on the cam itself is broken?

Nothing going INTO the sensor? I'd check your PCM to see if it's plugged in properly/completely. Also, look for corroded plugs, bad grounds, dead/low battery...

got around to changing the sensor..the extended crank is fixed...but it still boggs out sometimes...I dont know what else it could be...
Its better since changing the cam sensor, but still not good enough...
any ideas.
Thanks

Perhaps a new crankshaft position sensor may be in order as well. It's alot more expensive than the cam sensor. I had both go out on me in january. Check your codes and see if you are getting any.

I thought if the crank sensor is gone, the car wouldnt start at all? I could be wrong, but Im going to check the codes in a few mins
Thanks Kat

Hi, just checked the codes: Im getting a code 12, and a code 21. I dont think the code 12 is a big deal, but what exactly does 21 mean? Problem with oxygen sensor signal circuit. Sensor Voltage to computer not fluctuating. What now?? What do you think? Let me know, Thanks

Your oxygen sensor is probably contaminated, due to burning cooolant and oil that it is not flacutating anymore. A new one is
in order here. Good Luck.

Is there any way to tell which o2 sensor I should replace. Im thinking upstream...but maybe I should go for both?? What do you guys think? Is it possible that this problem would cause my car to bog down when trying to accelerate? Thanks

another bit of info- my car only boggs out and runs like crap when its hot outside, when its raining or cool, it runs great, dont know if thats usefull info, but I thought I'd let you all know anyways

Originally posted by joedirt76
I thought if the crank sensor is gone, the car wouldnt start at all? I could be wrong, but Im going to check the codes in a few mins
Thanks Kat

When mine went the starter spun but it never turned over. As for your O2 sensors, I don;t know of a way to test them on your own, nor do I have any info on what kind of reading they should put out. When I got a 51 (fuel system lean) my service writer told me it could be an O2 sensor and that I wouldnt necessarily get the code. I went ahead and bit the bullet and replaced both, and my code went away. A bad O2 sensor will cause your car to bog down, and my car's performance did suck when that was going on. If it has been 35K+ miles since one or both were last replaced I would go for both. Expensive yes, but worth it in the end if you look at how much gas you eat up. Code 12 means nothing, its more of an FYI code to let you know the battery or power to the PCM has been cut at some point in the last 50 key cycles.

ok, thats what Ill do, Im going to replace both, is the upstream hard to get at?, its in the exhaust manifold right? the downstreams a piece of cake.

No, the upstream is easy as long as you are smart and get the intake box out of the way. Before you go to the expense of replacing the O2 sensors, have them checked by using a ohmmeter. IIRC, you should register between 7-9.5 ohms.

If your car is bogging when it's hot, check the ignition coil.

Kat, if you're replacing O2 sensors every 35K, there's a problem. ;) 100K+ is more like it.

Thanks scatch, ill see if I got an ohmmeter kicking around here. My car has 183,000 on it, so I wont be surprised if the o2 sensor are pooched. I just got the car, the previous owner probably never changed them.

My apologies... the ohmmeter should read between 5-7 ohms.

Just checked the price of the o2 sensors! Wow, 110 for the rear, and 79 for the front, thats crazy...I was thinking around 40 each... :frown:
Are those prices pretty much standard?

Lordy! Maybe from the dealer, if you pay retail, which I don't. I think I saw O2 sensors for around $90-100/pair at a local auto parts store. Were you looking at OEM? Can't really go wrong with OEM, but if that's the price...

Maybe check NAPA?

I live in canada, I checked this place called canadian tire. They're usually pretty competitive. Ill check other places tomorrow; I gotta get this fixed, my gas mileage is ridiculous right now, and I have a road trip planned this weekend.
100 for one sensor! ouch! I have to find them cheaper...

I said the hell with it, and decided to replace both sensor, I went out today and picked em up. So I was trying and trying so hard to pry the downstream o2 sensor off; I couldnt get it, it's fused on there. Then I asked my muscle head brother to try, he couldnt get it. So I skipped that one for now, and managed to change the upstream. I took it for a test drive and its not bogging out anymore, its running sweet. Im debating it I should return the downstream sensor and get my $100 back, or just change it. Also, if I do change it, does anyone have suggestions on how to get it out, I have to one arm it, I dont have a hoist or anything. I tried spraying it, I tried letting the car warm up for a bit, nothing works. :confused:
Thanks

Hmm, I've never had trouble replacing O2 sensors on a Neon. On other car, though...

Have you tried PB Blaster? I don't know if you guys can get that stuff, but it works miracles.

FWIW, the upstream sensor is usually the first one to go. Though, at 183K (Km?) the downstream's probably due as well, or nearly so.

youre right scatch, it was the upstream... its not bogging at all anymore, and no more check engine light!!!! Gives me props guys, a '95 neon with 183,000, and no check engine light, I find it hard to believe myself!

Originally posted by Scatch!


Kat, if you're replacing O2 sensors every 35K, there's a problem. ;) 100K+ is more like it.

My Neon is "speshul". LOL j/k. I used the 35K miles as a reference because it was known with the early Neons that the code for O2 sensors would come on around that mileage. It did with me. This is the first time since then I have had to replace them.

:banghead:I drive a 95 dodge neon, 4 cylinder. I was driving home, stopped at a red light and my check engine light came on. Within less then a minute my oil light came on and the car died.(mind you the electric in that mofo is all screwd up so i cant take anything to heart that the dash says) Oils fine. The car is getting spark and fuel, and on occasion sounds like it is trying to start. tried using starting fluid and it didnt work, all fuses seem good. what the hell is wrong? Check engline light codes..
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnect w/ in last 50 key on cycles.
24 Throttle sensor out of range.
54 No cam signal at PCM


When it happend it was raining, can something like that dry out and the care will be okay. Im planning on selling that POS when i get my tax return and of course now it breaks down left and right!

Well, it told you the cam sensor and throttle sensor have problems, so that's what I'd look at... second, oddly enough.

I would first check the battery terminals. Modern cars really don't like voltage problems, and that might explain the other weirdness going on. It might also trigger false codes. Check the battery, clean the terminals and tighten them. If that doesn't fix the problem, you are out $0. Then move on to the sensors, which are easy to fix.

If I had my factory service manual handy, I'd tell you if the sensors can be checked easily with a volt/ohmmeter...