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Using p/e air vents on sport car build?


joelwideqvist
08-15-2013, 04:07 AM
Hi,
trying to get back to the hobby and chose to do the Gallardo Polizia 1/24 as a warm up build. As scale model building is like going to the gym, when it is three months since the last time, there is no "warming up" in this build at all :evillol:

As I've not done a 1/24 sports car before I'd like to get your opinion on using the p/e air vents on a car like the Gallardo. The plastic ones in the fujimi is obviously too thick but how about the p/e ones? Too thin? And if so, do they come out looking better than leaving the plastic (if done properly that is)?

Very thankful for your input!
/Joel

Edit: I'm not talking about the mesh intakes. I mean the fin like vents that can be seen on top of the engine in this picture http://www.flickr.com/photos/cienne/2881934208/

joelwideqvist
08-15-2013, 04:32 PM
Come on guys! I really value your input here. Is it worth the work to cut away all the styrene fins and replace them or does it look equally bad - but the other way around...?

freakray
08-15-2013, 06:32 PM
Personally, I prefer the photo etch ones, I think they look better in scale whereas the plastic ones in the kit tend to look somewhat bulky.

joelwideqvist
08-16-2013, 02:55 AM
Thanks!
Are they usually hard to fit? After all they aren't too small.

hirofkd
08-16-2013, 08:49 AM
Whether to use PE or not is a subjective choice, and PE is not required to make a good model. Well-executed OOB model can easily outshine a super-detailed model, if other aspects like assembly and painting are not carefully done.
Fitment of parts depends on the quality of the PE parts. Most manufacturers have botched this in the past, so it's always hit or miss.
Another thing to consider is what to put behind the PE parts because they are see-through.

BVC500
08-16-2013, 08:56 AM
I agree with Hiro. Some things are appropriate for PE, other things not. I don't really see the need for PE parts for dashboard air vents.

CFarias
08-16-2013, 09:25 AM
A technique I use is to paint the dash black, if it's not already, and then spray the dash color being careful not to spray into the vents. This provides a shading effect and can make the original dash vents look much thinner than they actually are. Of course, this only works if the dash is to be any other than color than black when you are finished.

joelwideqvist
08-16-2013, 10:02 AM
If I choose to do P/E, what would be a good way to prime before painting? Is a metallic primer necessary an, if so, do you prime the metal parts before they are glued to the chassis or is over spray of metal primer on the plastic no big deal?

joelwideqvist
08-16-2013, 10:08 AM
Of course you are right Hirofkd and BVC500, you can really question why many etch parts ends up on the fret at all. But the basic question is if P/E chassis vents (perhaps there is a better name for the part I'm talking about) are totally out of scale or a good replacement.

rallymaster
08-16-2013, 12:09 PM
Of course you are right Hirofkd and BVC500, you can really question why many etch parts ends up on the fret at all. But the basic question is if P/E chassis vents (perhaps there is a better name for the part I'm talking about) are totally out of scale or a good replacement.


I think that PE often are better and give more detail than original parts, but vents like those on the rear fenders on the Gallardo are tipically the parts I prefer to try to open before replacing them.
Not all the vents look nice once replaced by PE (try to see what look some Ferrari rear hoods like 288 or 355 if you try to use PE instead of original parts), which IMHO isn't adaptated to replace vents (I mean slot vents) whereas they are perfect to replace grilles and mesh vents.
I would consider that if I were you. ;)

hirofkd
08-17-2013, 12:45 AM
Unlike the Aventador's three dimensional grills, the Gallardo's mesh look two dimensional with negligible depth in 1/24 scale, so I say, go ahead and use the PE parts.
I'll most likely use mine in Fujimi's Gallardo Deluxe kit.
If it doesn't turn out well, build another model without PE grills.:lol:
As for preparation, you can use one of those metal primers for gaming figures that you can find at comic book stores. I usually sand the surface with Tamiya 2000 grit sand paper, and skip primer.

CFarias
08-18-2013, 11:49 PM
If I choose to do P/E, what would be a good way to prime before painting? Is a metallic primer necessary an, if so, do you prime the metal parts before they are glued to the chassis or is over spray of metal primer on the plastic no big deal?

Metal primers have a compound that bonds to the zinc used in metal alloys. It won't work if the photo-etch is stainless, or nickel, and not brass. Metallic primers and ordinary primers work the same way on plastic, so either one will work and spraying metallic primer onto the plastic shouldn't hurt the plastic. At least that's been my experience.

I'd go ahead and put the photo-etch in and then spray the the primer.

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