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Question on how to best trim car body opening?


Zonic2001
07-11-2013, 11:29 AM
I'm building the Gulf Porsche 917K #20 and the front lid where the brake pump with the liquid container, footbox and radiator are located at the front of the car (engine is on the back), that lid covering this area sits too high. Is not flush with the top of the body work. Therefore, had to sand down the supporting undercut to later replace with styrene sheets to rebuilt this undercut support lower to hold the lid in place and flush with the top of the car body. When I sanded down this undercut (lip) I was very careful but still when I bring and place the lid in position, the butt joint between the lid and the rest of the body opening is not perfect. What can I do to fill these minor imperfections? Was thinking to use filler and after letting it cure for days, re-cut the lid from the body for a perfect joint. Don't know if it will work. So, before I do a crazy thing and ruin such an expensive old model kit, I'm inquiring you all experts to provide me with your ideas on how to fill car body openings. Let me know. Thanks for reading this post and have a great day!

ianc911
07-11-2013, 02:12 PM
Pics required...

ianc

freakray
07-11-2013, 02:24 PM
I have to agree with Ian, pics would be helpful.

Personally, when I am trying to adjust body edges and joints, I like to use superglue with some hardener to get it to set up quickly. It allows you to build up quickly with many layers and sands back nicely to get a neat straight edge.

Zonic2001
07-11-2013, 02:31 PM
Pics required...

ianc

Go to RallyRaider post in WIP Motorsport, post named "Steve McQueen's "Le Mans" Porsche 917K". Look at post #1. Second and third pics (scolling down on the post), do you see the front car opening (2nd pic) and front lid (shown on the 3rd pic)? After I sand down the under lip holding the lid in place, my cuts looking it through a magnifying glass, doesn't end with a straight line (butt joint) between the lid and the opening. There are very small imperfections but in a contest they will take points away from me for this. I want to have the best straight line joint between the lid and the body opening. Does this helps? I can't take a picture of my work because I'm away from home for few days.

Zonic2001
07-11-2013, 02:35 PM
Additional information... I'm not trying to glue both pieces together in the closed position. The car will be shown with the lid open which imperfections will not matter but when is closed (like if the judge at a contest close it) then the imperfections in the line joint between the lid and body opening will be shown specially if a magnifying glass is used. Maybe to the naked eyes will not be noticiable.

stevenoble
07-11-2013, 03:06 PM
If I understand correctly you need to produce a straight edge along the lid..?? Glue a strip of very thin plastic strip along the edge to produce a perfect edge, then fill any imperfections with superglue and baking soda, allow to dry and reshape everything with a sanding stick. Hope I've understood correctly...

Zonic2001
07-11-2013, 03:37 PM
I I understand correctly you need to produce a straight edge along the lid..?? Glue a strip of very thin plastic strip along the edge to produce a perfect edge, then fill any imperfections with superglue and baking soda, allow to dry and reshape everything with a sanding stick. Hope I've understood correctly...

I have not installed the new lip (styrene strip) around the back side of body opening to hold the front lid in place, so to use your method, the strip you want me to add, will be on the back side of the body opening and rebuild the edge to a straight line with the edge of this styrene strip? And when is hard, sand it. Do I have the process correctly? If I do that, I'm overbuding the thikness of the body on the back and when I install the lips to support the lid then the lid will be at a lower elevation (embedded) than the top of the body. Do you follow me? But, you give me a great idea... I can use a little strip of DYMO tape, over build the edge and sand it down and remove the Dymo tape achieving the same result while keeping the same body thickness, correct?

I assume the glue you are refering to mix with baking soda is the regular plastic glue, correct?

Thanks my friend!!!!

Zonic2001
07-11-2013, 03:43 PM
I I understand correctly you need to produce a straight edge along the lid..?? Glue a strip of very thin plastic strip along the edge to produce a perfect edge, then fill any imperfections with superglue and baking soda, allow to dry and reshape everything with a sanding stick. Hope I've understood correctly...

Correction... The front lid was not sanded so the edges are currently perfect. I sanded the edges of the opening to make it larger and to redo the lip under the opening, holding the lid, so all part are flush (same elevation) on the body surface. Therefore, I'm rebuilding imperfections on the body shell opening edge after I sanded the opening. Do you follow me?

Zonic2001
07-12-2013, 08:37 AM
Thinking about it, maybe the Dymo tape might not work. I'm thinking that after placing the plaster (glue + Hydrogen peroxide) and let it dry, then sand. When I remove the dymo tape the repaired piece might come up with the dymo tape and will not stay with the body kit. :(

Any other ideas?

freakray
07-12-2013, 10:32 AM
I assume the glue you are refering to mix with baking soda is the regular plastic glue, correct?


No, super glue or CA glue, the baking soda will add volume to it and reduce viscosity. Similar to the solution I proposed of using multiple layers of superglue with a kicker. Using CA/superglue as a filler allows you to build up and sand back a lot quicker than using putty or plastic cement.

Zonic2001
07-12-2013, 11:18 AM
If I use superglue then the dymo tape will be glued to the car body too. Not good! Maybe I place the paste (CA+baking soda) on the car body opening edge (do the best I can to overbuild this edge) and let it cure. The gap I'm trying to fill is less than 0.5 mm X 1.5 mm. Just a little tab of paste will do and hopefully is consistent enough to stay in place. Then place the dymo tape before sanding to help me sand in a straight line and remove the tape when finished.

stevenoble
07-12-2013, 01:02 PM
So I hope I follow this now. You have opened the hood/bonnet panel and removed it from the main body. You have an edge on the main body and this edge is not straight, so when you fit the hood into place, you have an uneven gap between the hood edge and the body edge..?? Basically what you are saying is that the panel gap is uneven, but the problem is on the body side, not the hood side..?? Am I right so far..??
My earlier method will work. Use a micro thin strip of square plastic beam, I'm on about the stuff that is as thin as paper almost. Super glue it to the body edge so that it covers the uneven edge. This will make it straight at the front. Once it's dry shape it with a sanding stick and thin it down so that the hood will fit and you have the correct panel gap between the hood and the body. Finally fill the edge behind the plastic strip with the super glue/baking soda mix, allow to dry, then sand and shape the body side to blend the strip into the body so that the join is invisible. It's hard to explain, but I've used this many times on resin kits that have poor panel gaps and also to replace bad edges on window frames, also on resin kits.
Oh, and one other thing. Forget the ledge where the bonnet will sit. Do the remedial work on the damaged edge first and fit the ledge for the bonnet to sit on at the very end making it from plastic strip..

Zonic2001
07-15-2013, 08:31 AM
Stevenoble... it worked. Thanks!

stevenoble
07-15-2013, 06:41 PM
Stevenoble... it worked. Thanks!

You're most welcome, glad I could help :smile:

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