Low Coolant Indicator

92 PA (Base), 130,000 miles

About a month ago the 'Low Coolant' indicator has been coming on and the temp has been rising to 200 degrees. I purchased the car in Mesa, AZ in 2010, installed a new radiator and the temp has never rose to 200 degrees. I've checked the coolant reservoir while it was cold and it was at its normal level. I have not checked the coolant while vehicle was on and at normal operating temperature but have notice that there's a strange dark color to the coolant within the reservoir.

Is it necessary to conduct a pressure test to check for leaks? If so, please provide me with the numbers so that I won't go above the limits that would cause damage. I've notice that my engine has a noticeable hum or slight growl to it. I was wondering if it was the water pump. What should I check on the water pump and how to check it? Also, please provide me with any other info of what I should check for.

Thanks in advance.

Have you checked the operation of the coolant level sensor? If the light is on, does it go out when disconnected?

Have you checked the level of the radiator when cold?

The "color" in the reservoir, could have been there for years......most shops, when they replace a radiator, don't take the time to remove/clean the reservoir, they just refill it, and the stuff clinging to the side stays there....

The water pump has a weep hole that is hidden by the pulley....if the weep hole is leaking, it can collect on the backside of the pulley, get flung by the belt, or driop down the front cover.

The two areas of concern are usually the W/P weep hole, and the nipple in the lower intake, that has a hose going to it above the W/P.....

Yes a pressure tester will help to find a leak....12-15 psi....

If you suspect the W/P of making noise, put a mechanic's stethescope on the water pump. and listen for an abnormal growl....

When checking radiator while cold, fluid level was full. I noticed that the coolant reservoir fluid level was well below the cold mark (I guess this is sort of good news because I thought the hose was clogged). I replenish with coolant to cold mark and started vehicle. 'Low Coolant' indicator did not come on. After starting vehicle to allow engine to get obtain normal operating temperature, temperature gauge did reach 200 again but didn't go over.

I notice there are two fans on the radiator; are they suppose to aid in cooling the radiator when a/c is not being used? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I've discovered no leaks near the W/P or fluids on the belt and pulleys. No leaks undercarriage or on ground where vehicle is parked.

Thanks

In your first post, you said the cold level in the reservoir was normal...Since you have added coolant to the reservoir, keep an eye on the level to see if it drops......

You have two fans.......one will come on at a set temp, like maybe 218F.......if the fan can't handle the rise in temp and temp reaches, I'm guessing 230F, then the second fan comes on, too.....

So if the gauge is reading 200F, those fans won't even be running.....

What is the normal operating temp for my engine (its the base model)? I'm thinking of installing a new WP and thermostat just to be on the safe side because prior to moving to Indy the engine temps would never rise to 200 degrees; if location can be factored in. I'm no certified master tech like some of you guys that have been helpful over years on this site but I believe the install should not be that difficult. Can anyone offer any advice on the install?

Thanks for your responses.

I had a ' 97 PA with 175,000 miles that ran around 200 degrees, and now I have an '02 PA with 70,000 miles, and it runs around 200 degrees. I live in FL, so it's plenty hot down here. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. :nono:
Wendy

But the fact is, you have a coolant leak somewhere....

Sounds like you have the upper intake manifold issue and you are slowly losing coolant into the engine. The coolant will go down slowly and the overflow will be blackened. Probably will need to replace the upper intake manifold, gasket, and the tube where the EGR goes through the manifold. Wouldn't run it too long this way if it is the manifold issue.