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1987 Toyota Camry


DiNardo
04-13-2013, 03:15 PM
Just bought for around town. Problem with starting. Turn ignition and sometimes hear grind. Second try in neutral and she starts right up. I don't know if it's problem with key ignition/coil, or the starter.

Also need to convert a/c, fan ok but no cooling. Is this major cost to convert?:runaround:

Mike Gerber
04-13-2013, 03:44 PM
The grinding may be the teeth on the starter's Bendix gear not aligning with the teeth on the flywheel. Several teeth may have been broken off the flywheel. Some Camry's of this generation had that problem. The fix is not cheap if teeth have been broken off the flywheel. I would have someone remove the starter and inspect all the teeth on the flywheel by rotating the engine. To replace the flywheel the engine and transmission have to be separated. That's why it can be expensive. If after inspection you or the mechanic does find teeth are broken off the flywheel, I would try to live with the problem.

I can't comment on the cost to convert the A/C. Too many factors are involved. Does the compressor still work? Are there any leaks anywhere in the system? How long has it been since the A/C system worked? Has moisture gotten in to the system and has that destroyed any parts? Is this something you are planning on doing yourself or taking it to a professional? An A/C professional may be the best one to diagnose your system.

Mike

DiNardo
04-13-2013, 08:53 PM
The grinding may be the teeth on the starter's Bendix gear not aligning with the teeth on the flywheel. Several teeth may have been broken off the flywheel. Some Camry's of this generation had that problem. The fix is not cheap if teeth have been broken off the flywheel. I would have someone remove the starter and inspect all the teeth on the flywheel by rotating the engine. To replace the flywheel the engine and transmission have to be separated. That's why it can be expensive. If after inspection you or the mechanic does find teeth are broken off the flywheel, I would try to live with the problem.

I can't comment on the cost to convert the A/C. Too many factors are involved. Does the compressor still work? Are there any leaks anywhere in the system? How long has it been since the A/C system worked? Has moisture gotten in to the system and has that destroyed any parts? Is this something you are planning on doing yourself or taking it to a professional? An A/C professional may be the best one to diagnose your system.

Mike


Thanks Mike, The compressor is working on the a/c, just blowing hot air. I got the car without the a/c working. (it's super clean engine for the year), new battery, radiator, muffler. Burning a little oil so I am having gaskets checked. If it's fuel injector, am I toast?

jdmccright
04-19-2013, 10:43 AM
If you do a conversion, I would go ahead and replace the compressor and accumulator, and maybe the condenser. Since you don't know how long it's been nonfunctional, there's a good chance that corrosion has set in and circulating that slough off will eventually destroy anything that is still working, wasting the refrigerant and time you spent doing it. And if you're in a hot part of Nevada, I don't think you'll want to see it fail after only a short time. I would also replace all the piping connection o-rings with new R134-compatible ones.

Haynes actually has a pretty good A/C repair manual available at auto parts stores that includes amounts of oil and refrigerant to add and where. I have it and it has been very handy during my A/C repairs. I also bought a little 2.5 SCFM vacuum pump to do my own pull-downs. You might be able to borrow one for free if they have it, but make sure it has pump oil as well.

I would first do a leak check by pulling a vacuum, adding some R134 with a leak dye and then looking for where it leaked out...this may take a day or two to show up. Identify the parts that are causing the leak and replace...look for oily or dye stains on piping, around connections, condenser fins, compressor shafts, connection nipples, etc.

If the condenser is good, then flush with a A/C flush and blow dry. Get as much of the flushing fluid out as possible. I wouldn't flush the rest of the system unless it is known that the compressor failed internally and bits of it were carried through the system. Doing so could clog up the evaporator valve which is a real PITA to replace.

Once flushing is done, add new oil to the new compressor, condenser, and accumulator, install them and o-rings and do another vacuum pull to check for leaks. At your altitude, I don't have the in-Hg vacuum you should be able to maintain...Haynes to the rescue here too, so check it for where and how much oil to add and your target in-Hg.

This is not comprehensive but I tried to touch on all the major aspects. Good luck!

If all is good, recharge with refrigerant

Mike Gerber
04-20-2013, 03:38 PM
Sorry for not responding sooner. I have been on vacation and didn't have internet access.

I'm not sure what you mean by this statement:

"If it's fuel injector, am I toast?"

A fuel injector would have nothing to do with the grinding noise you are hearing when starting the car. It is also not related to the A/C and jdmccright gave you a great explanation of what to do with your A/C system. Can you explain why you were asking about the fuel injector(s)?

Mike

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