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Oil pressure light was blinking at idle; now constant


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dylanborns
12-12-2012, 08:04 AM
I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done:
Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).

Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on. Also, the oil is good on the dipstick.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on everytime it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but since around the end of november I had posted here with a question on a "hot" smell that I thought seemed like burning rubber, but now I'm wondering if its something else.
I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester, but for some reason all the LAP's stores don't have them on the shelf for sale, and the ones they can order are over $100.

Any other suggestions?

tempfixit
12-12-2012, 08:57 AM
I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done:
Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).

Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on. Also, the oil is good on the dipstick.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on everytime it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but since around the end of november I had posted here with a question on a "hot" smell that I thought seemed like burning rubber, but now I'm wondering if its something else.
I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester, but for some reason all the LAP's stores don't have them on the shelf for sale, and the ones they can order are over $100.

Any other suggestions?

Check harborfrieght.com for a oil pressure gauge.

http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html

I do not believe that changing oil wieghts cause the light to come on. Inspect your sending unit and wiring for leakge or bad wire. Also test with gauge so you know what the pressures at idle and higher rpm are for piece of mind. What kind of oil filter do you use, was it also switched to a different brand ?

dylanborns
12-12-2012, 09:09 AM
I have seen them cheaper on ebay (than the auto parts store), but didn't think about checking with HF. Theres a store locally, so I'll see if they have one in stock.

I know there is a small oil leak somewhere, but I've never been able to track it down. I looked for the sensor yesterday, but wasn't able to locate if from the top of the motor. I'm going to take the plastic skirt off and look from underneath.

I use Wix filters, and didn't change brands on the last oil change.

Thanks

dylanborns
12-12-2012, 09:36 AM
I just started it up again after it had cooled all the way down. I let it run for a few minutes and the light didn't come on even though the RPM's were at or below the 1K mark. So it seems as though this issue is happening when the motor gets to op temp and the oil thins out.

If this is actually a low oil pressure issue, and not the change in oil or a bad sensor, am I going to have any other warning signs before this thing detonates on me? I do have to drive it home tomorrow which is about 20 miles.

tempfixit
12-12-2012, 10:17 AM
I recommend not drving until you determine oil pressure. I would change the sensor first if you do not have a oil pressure tester.

No oil pressure will damage bearings very quickly.

Have you looked at the autozoone.com website under compotent locations for sensor location?


3.0L Engine


Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the right side splash shield.
NOTE
The A/C compressor has been removed for clarity.



<LI sizset="10" sizcache08243132159911565="4">Disconnect the electrical connector, then remove the oil pressure sender.

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/20/4d/89/small/0996b43f80204d89.jpg
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_icon.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_tooltip.gif (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repaiguideOverlay.jsp?src=http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/20/4d/89/medium/0996b43f80204d89.&imageType=gif&imageName=Detach the connector, then remove the oil pressure sender. Note: A/C compressor removed for clarity)
Fig. Detach the connector, then remove the oil pressure sender. Note: A/C compressor removed for clarity


To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the oil pressure sender to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm) and the right side splash shield retainers to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).



Testing





Check oil pressure switch for any signs of oil leakage.
Check electrical connector for poor connection or damage.
Verify continuity on circuit and proper gauge operation.
Remove oil pressure switch and install oil pressure gauge.
Verify oil pressure 29-39 (psi).
Suspect faulty oil pressure switch.

dylanborns
12-12-2012, 10:35 AM
Have you looked at the autozoone.com website under compotent locations for sensor location?

I can see the wiring that goes to the sensor from the top of the motor, but can't see the actual sensor itself. I'm sure I can get to it alot easier by removing the plastic skirt and working from underneath.

dylanborns
12-12-2012, 10:41 AM
Thanks for your help so far. If I have an actual low oil pressure issue, would that not show up at all times? Why would it just be when the oil gets warmed up? And for it to go away for a day after putting about 50 miles on it?

I'm not questioning your advice, just throwing stuff out there.

tempfixit
12-12-2012, 10:58 AM
Thanks for your help so far. If I have an actual low oil pressure issue, would that not show up at all times? Why would it just be when the oil gets warmed up? And for it to go away for a day after putting about 50 miles on it?



I'm not questioning your advice, just throwing stuff out there.

When the engine warms up the oil does get a little thinner, You are correct that if a low pressure issue light should be on all the time but just to make sure rather than have a engine failure correct the problem. You may find that the sensor is leaking and is faulty, I would replace even if not leaking. I added the testing procedure on my last post, hopefully that will help you.

The autozone repair guide is free you just need to sign up for it. Just fo to autozone.com and it will direct you as to how to sign up.

dylanborns
12-12-2012, 11:22 AM
No, I agree with you, I need to change the sensor. I've called oreilly and they have them in stock so I can pick one up in the morning.
Since I've had other electrical items going bad on this thing lately, I'm hoping that the sensor is just at the end of its life. The other thing I'm thinking is that when I was trying to remove that front bank, upstream O2 sensor, I would have been working in the same general area of this thing and could have damaged the wiring or sensor itself.
I'll check out the Autozone page.
Thanks!

dylanborns
12-13-2012, 11:58 AM
I had the light come on as soon as the car got up to temp again this morning. Again, it went out anytime above idle. On the way home I decided to take the highway thinking that without stop and go traffic it would be above idle most of the time. After getting off the highway and into city driving, it didn't come on at all. I even stopped for oil and a sieve.
I got home and changed the oil back to 5w-20 and let the old oil run out thru the sieve in the off chance that I had anything in it. It was clean. I emptied the filter and didn't find anything in it either. I put it back on, refilled and let it run for about 10 minutes. The light didn't come on.
I have a new sensor but wasn't able to get to it from below even with the filter off. I'm going to try by taking the right tire off along with the skirt and see if I can get to it from there.

dylanborns
12-14-2012, 08:35 AM
So since yesterday, I've put a little over 40 miles on it, all city driving. The light has not come on at all even at idle. I still don't believe the oil was the reason since I actually went back to a lighter oil, but we'll see how the next few weeks goes.
I'm still going to change the sensor because I already bought it, and theres really no reason not to. When I was trying to find it on the motor yesterday, I was using the wire loom as a guide when fishing my hand down in there, so maybe it is going bad and messing with it did something.

65comet
12-14-2012, 03:36 PM
Other possibility. During oil change something in motor, (carbon buildup, cardboard remnant in outflow of new filter, etc.) went into passage in front of sender. Wasn't large enough to totally block the pressure but was enough to trigger warning at low rpm's. Then your highway drive was enough extra high pressure to flush that blockage away from that area.

dylanborns
12-14-2012, 04:57 PM
That's why I ran the old oil thru the sieve to see if it caught anything. It did come out clean though.

dylanborns
12-17-2012, 03:13 PM
I replaced the oil pressure sender today, and it went pretty easy. The only problem I ran into was the new one I picked up was incorrect. It was from Oreilly and when I put the year and make in online, it showed BWD part #S4224. That was incorrect as it has 1/4" threads and the original is 3/8" threads. I checked back with them and also with Advance Auto. Oreilly didn't have any of the correct sized ones on the shelf and AAP said it was a special order item and would take almost a week to get?
So if anyone is doing this, make sure the one you get is a 3/8". BTW, Napa did have one in stock in the Echlin brand, part #OP6216.
I went ahead and removed the right tire, and right side lower skirt. Remove the belt just from the AC compressor, and move it out of the way. There are three bolts holding the AC compressor on. Remove those and use some wire to tie it up so its not hanging from the AC lines. You'll see the sensor after you move it out of the way. You'll need a 13/16" wrench to take it out. Clean around the sensor if you have any dirt or grime before you remove it. Also, I had about a tsp. of oil that came out when I removed it, so put down some newspaper. Installation is just the opposite. Theres no way to get a torque wrench in there so when you are removing the old, just kind of gauge how hard it is to loosen, and keep that in mind when installing the new one. I'm big on using dielectric grease, and I did that on the sensor connection.

Total time, not counting running back to the auto parts store: 45 minutes.

tempfixit
12-17-2012, 07:35 PM
Did the sensor look like it was leaking oil???

dylanborns
12-17-2012, 09:30 PM
I HOPE this is where my oil leak is coming from but I'm not sure yet. I have a lot of junk on the front(belt side), of the motor and there was quite a bit around the sensor itself. I'll see if changing it out stops the leak.

dylanborns
12-18-2012, 01:07 PM
Did the sensor look like it was leaking oil???I've got a slight oil leak somewhere, but it didn't look like any was coming from the sensor area. I'll post a pic when I take it apart again.

I'm having to do that because I drove it this morning and at about the three mile mark the light came on again. So, I picked up a oil pressure tester today, and just finished checking it out. When cold it is around 80psi, and slowly goes down to right around 40psi at operating temp. I let it run until the engine was at operating temp, and the dial showed 30psi. The manual is saying it should be 45psi at 800rpm. I only have the tach in the dash, and the lowest it shows is 1000rpm so I gave it a little gas until it was just under that. The gauge then read just over 40psi. I noticed right when it got to temp and I kicked the heater on, the gauge dropped dramatically, but stopped at 30psi and never went lower.
I don't know if those numbers are good or not, but they seem close to me. I've seen mention on another forum that the escapes oil light will come on when it gets below 6psi? Can anyone tell me if thats correct?
I'm going to check the wiring going into the sensor and make sure its not damaged, and causing the issue. Any other suggestions?

I took it for a drive and 0.2 miles in and the light came on. I brought it back and checked the level which was fine, and also wiggled the wire from the sensor all the way up until it goes into the main loom just to see if that would make the light go out. It didn't, so does anyone have any other suggestions?
Also, what would a dealer do different compared to what I've done so far? (New sensor, and manually checked the oil pressure).

dylanborns
12-18-2012, 02:22 PM
I'm trying to figure out what to look for and came across some info on PCV valves. I'm probably way off, but could this in anyway be caused by a faulty valve? Its never been changed, and I'm reading that when they go bad some of the symptoms I'm having start showing up, i.e. the oil leaks, more than normal condensation coming from the tailpipe, lowered fuel efficiency, etc. I tried to change it awhile back, but couldn't get to it without taking the intake off again.

The one big symptom I don't have is the buildup of sludge. When I changed the oil a few days ago, it came out nice and clean.

Could a bad PCV valve in anyway be a part of this problem?

dylanborns
12-19-2012, 12:09 PM
After about giving up on this thing, I talked with a mechanic friend last night and he made a suggestion. He said I needed to get the correct adapters to make a "T" off the female connection on the block. That way I can have the sensor plugged in and the tester also plugged in. Then when the light comes on, I can look at the tester to see what its reading.
So I got the two parts today and got everything hooked up. I got the same readings as yesterday; 80psi on startup and slowly goes down to around 30psi when the engine is warm. This time I let it run for about 30 minutes, and of course, the light never came on. The lowest the gauge went was right around 20psi, and revving the motor up to around 1000rpm, got it up to the mid 30's.
So judging by the specs, and knowing that its supposed to be 45psi at 800rpm, I can tell that the motor is worn, but it does have 120k miles on it.
I'm going to take it apart again, for the fifth time, replace the sensor, and drive it until the light comes on again. I'll then hook everything back up and see what the readings are.

tempfixit
12-19-2012, 07:39 PM
After about giving up on this thing, I talked with a mechanic friend last night and he made a suggestion. He said I needed to get the correct adapters to make a "T" off the female connection on the block. That way I can have the sensor plugged in and the tester also plugged in. Then when the light comes on, I can look at the tester to see what its reading.
So I got the two parts today and got everything hooked up. I got the same readings as yesterday; 80psi on startup and slowly goes down to around 30psi when the engine is warm. This time I let it run for about 30 minutes, and of course, the light never came on. The lowest the gauge went was right around 20psi, and revving the motor up to around 1000rpm, got it up to the mid 30's.
So judging by the specs, and knowing that its supposed to be 45psi at 800rpm, I can tell that the motor is worn, but it does have 120k miles on it.
I'm going to take it apart again, for the fifth time, replace the sensor, and drive it until the light comes on again. I'll then hook everything back up and see what the readings are.


I suggest leaving the Tee hooked up and install a permanent oil pressure gauge that you can monitor along with the sending unit and light. This way you could know oil pressure at all times.

I do not think the PCV would affect the oil pressure.

EDIT:

After rereading your posts, you mention that when you turrnd on the heater the oil pressure dropped, was this at idle and did you turn it to deforest by chance? I do not understand why the turning on of the heater would make a difference in oil pressure exceept if the idle is a lot slower with it on.

Have you had this vehicle since new??

I am thinking possiblity of oil pump issues, whicch engine ithis, sure you mentioned it and I have missed it.

dylanborns
12-20-2012, 08:19 AM
Have you had this vehicle since new??I have had this vehicle since new, and I've kept to a schedule on the oil changes. Its the V6 motor with 124k miles on it.
you mention that when you turrnd on the heater the oil pressure dropped, was this at idle and did you turn it to deforest by chance?The heater was on while I was driving and yes, it was on when I came to the stoplights and the rpm's dropped to idle. I noticed that the light would come on constant when I turned the heat on high.
Judging by my tach, turning the heat on drops the rpm's just a little bit and then it sounds like the car compensates and the rpm's go back up again. It's a very small drop in rpm's, but I do notice it dip. I did not turn it to defrost, just the heater.

I am thinking possiblity of oil pump issuesI thought about this also, and don't like the solution if it is an oil pump. But if it was the oil pump, wouldn't I have more issues with low pressure when the car first starts up and the oil is thicker? (Pressure at cold startup is 80psi). Also, wouldn't I be getting the light at higher rpm's because a bad oil pump wouldn't be able to keep up? Oil pressure at or above 1k rpm's is strong.

dylanborns
12-20-2012, 04:46 PM
I suggest leaving the Tee hooked up and install a permanent oil pressure gauge that you can monitor along with the sending unit and light. This way you could know oil pressure at all times

I almost did this instead of taking the "T" off, but I need to get an oil pressure gauge before I do. I wouldn't have been able to keep the tester on there and drive around.

Today, I drove mostly city driving and after about 12 miles, at idle, the light just barely flickered. It never came on constant but it was flickering. Then, on the way back home, in all city driving, probably 15 miles, the light didn't come on once. So I don't know what I have going on. I had planned on driving straight home the next time it came on and hooking that "T" tester back up, but it didn't happen this time.

dylanborns
12-22-2012, 09:54 AM
I've driven it the last few days and have had the light flicker just once. I had the heat going and when I turned it off, the rpm's went up enough to get the light to stop. So, then I started thinking about the fact that it is always at idle when the rpm's are at their lowest.

Is there any possibility that this could be an issue with low rpm's? I can't find it now, and can't remember where I read it, but I remember seeing that after changing coil packs and putting the top of the motor back together, you were supposed to check the throttle cable and something about making sure rpm's were right? I did the plug and coil change recently, and I just remembered reading something like that.
I'm just comparing this to my old jeep with a carb. If I adjust the throttle linkage, the rpm's go up or down.

Could I possibly have the throttle cable to loose, therefore causing low rpm's, which would cause low oil pressure?

tempfixit
12-28-2012, 01:56 AM
Has the oil light been staying off now???

dylanborns
12-29-2012, 08:05 AM
I hadn't drive it for three days until yesterday. I went about 12 miles round trip, hitting a few lights and stop signs and didn't have it come on until I pulled into the garage.
The last thing I want to try before I go through dropping the pan is to drain the oil and run a brush into the drain hole to see if I pull anything out. I know its a stretch, but I have a new nylon gun cleaning brush that would work perfect. I can fish it in there and see if it pulls out any chunks of sludge.

tempfixit
12-30-2012, 12:10 AM
I hadn't drive it for three days until yesterday. I went about 12 miles round trip, hitting a few lights and stop signs and didn't have it come on until I pulled into the garage.
The last thing I want to try before I go through dropping the pan is to drain the oil and run a brush into the drain hole to see if I pull anything out. I know its a stretch, but I have a new nylon gun cleaning brush that would work perfect. I can fish it in there and see if it pulls out any chunks of sludge.


You could try that. Personally I would change the OIL FILTER (I do not remember you changing it since the ordeal began) and I would also reinstall that tee and add a permenment mechanical oil pressure gauge so you can monitor actual oil pressure at all times (IF light comes on you can see what actual pressure is). There also is a adaptor that can be installed
at the oil filter location by turning it onto the oil filter threads then install a oil filter to it. This adaptor has I believe 5 ports to hook up oil gauges. If interested I will look up the adaptor for you.

I am not sure if you installed a new oil sending unit or not at this point????

I do not know what the desired idle rpm is for your vehicle. ( Quessing in the 700-750 rpm range.) Do you have any way that you can measure the idle rpm when the light comes on.

I hate too see you take off a oil pan needlessly before testing to make sure that is what you need to do.

EDIT

Adaptor link:
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Oil-Filter-Sandwich-Adapters.aspx

dylanborns
12-30-2012, 10:32 AM
Personally I would change the OIL FILTER (I do not remember you changing it since the ordeal began)I have a Wix filter on it now, and no, I haven't change it since this started. The only thing I did was to remove it and dump the contents through a sieve to see if I had anything in the oil. I'll pick up another one tomorrow.
I am not sure if you installed a new oil sending unit or not at this pointI do have a new oil sending unit on it.
Thanks for the link on the adapter! I didn't know those were available and that would be very handy to have. Just getting to the sensor to do these tests has been a real pain, but that would put the connections in a much better place.

I don't know what size threads the mechanical oil pressure gauges have on them but the brass fitting I bought has a 3/8" male that goes into the block, and two 3/8" females that I used to hook the sensor and pressure tester into. If a gauge connection isn't a 3/8" thread, than that would mean I'd need another adapter on that "T" to make it work, and there isn't a bunch of room up in there to keep adding adapters. Also, more connections mean possible oil leaks. I need to take a look at what size the gauge connections are.
I do not know what the desired idle rpm is for your vehicle. ( Quessing in the 700-750 rpm range.) Do you have any way that you can measure the idle rpm when the light comes onHaynes showed oil pressure should be 45psi at 800 rpm. I have the tach on the dash, but I was only able to guess when I was close to 800rpm, and I had good pressure until it really warmed up. I let it run for awhile with both the sensor and tester hooked up and the lowest pressure I had was around 18psi after letting it run for half an hour, (in the garage at idle). If I got it up to what I thought was close to 800rpm's, I think I was in the 30psi range. Of course the oil light never came on during that test, but it never went lower than the 18psi at idle.
Also, the tach on the dash is the only way I know what the rpms are. At operating temp and idle, its in between the 500 and 1K mark, so it maybe the 800rpm that Haynes shows.

Another question I have is on the operating temp. I understand that the coolant and oil do two different jobs, but does one possibly affect the other? I ask because since this has been going on, I've paid more attention to my gauges. I've noticed that I get up to temp very quickly. It isn't overheating, but in this 20* weather, after being outside all night, it takes less than three miles at highway speed before the temp gauge is in the middle and obviously the thermostat opens. I might be wrong, but I would think with those factors it would take a little longer before this thing was so warm. Could ineffective lubrication possibly lead to the motor heating up faster?
I did a coolant flush/ replace this summer, and the coolant is showing that its good with a bulb tester. I maybe grasping straws, but its just something I noticed.

Thanks for the help.

tempfixit
12-30-2012, 01:09 PM
According to the schematic you should have a low oil light also, does it ever come on???

dylanborns
12-30-2012, 02:20 PM
Thats the light that is coming on; it looks like an oil can with a drop of oil next to it. It blinks at times or goes constant at other times, always at idle and as soon as I give it some gas it turns off. Its never when the motor is cold, only when its warmed up to op temp, and its inconsistent.

From what I've seen, I don't have a "low oil" light anywhere on the dash. Its just the one I describe above and its low oil pressure.

tempfixit
12-30-2012, 03:16 PM
Sorry I meant a low oil level indicator.

dylanborns
12-30-2012, 04:04 PM
No, thats what I thought you were talking about, and I was trying to picture the dash in my mind. For some reason I was thinking there was another "OIL" light on there, but I googled "ford escape dash lights" and found a pic of it. It only has the picture of the oil can; no other warning lights.
And my oil shows full on the stick.

tempfixit
12-30-2012, 10:55 PM
Here is a informational link about oil pressure:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1097.htm

Hooking a mechanical oil pressure gauge at the oil filter would help determining if the loss of pressure is from the oil pump, A gauge at the sending unit location would tell if you are loosing pressure thru the main, rod, or cam bearings.

I am thinking since this all started when you did the oil and filter change you have a oil fliter giving you problems, hopefully a new filter will cure the problem.

dylanborns
12-31-2012, 01:43 PM
Thanks for that link, it had some interesting info.

I changed the filter today but only drove it about 10 miles total. I'll drive it to work tomorrow and see what happens.
Have you run into issues with the filter in the past that made you suggest it?

tempfixit
12-31-2012, 06:24 PM
Thanks for that link, it had some interesting info.

I changed the filter today but only drove it about 10 miles total. I'll drive it to work tomorrow and see what happens.
Have you run into issues with the filter in the past that made you suggest it?


No I have not expierenced any filter problems. This problem starting after a oil change just makes me think it could have something to do with the filter as it is the only thing not changed.

What was the reason for the intake manifold gaskets changed, was just the plenium gasket changed or were the lower intake gaskets also changed???

dylanborns
12-31-2012, 07:00 PM
I was thinking the same thing after your last post. The filter is the only thing I didn't change since this came up.

What was the reason for the intake manifold gaskets changed, was just the plenium gasket changed or were the lower intake gaskets also changed???

Then only reason I changed the intake gaskets is because I changed the spark plugs and all coils because I was overdue on the 100K maintenance. I didn't change out the lower gaskets at that time. Its been a couple months ago that I did that, and the oil light showed up quite awhile after that.

dylanborns
01-01-2013, 07:16 AM
Any ideas on the question I had in post #27 on the way it gets to op temp so quickly? Am I way off on this?
I'm going to be driving quite a bit for the next few days so we'll see if changing the filter helped.

Thanks for your help so far.

tempfixit
01-01-2013, 07:59 AM
The engine will warm up considerably faster at highway speeds because of the load of the engine versus idling, I do not believe it is oil pressure related. The higher rpm's will cause more friction from the rotating parts and rings to heat the block faster.

Hopefully the filter change helped or you will need to add a mechanical gauge to monitor the oil pressure.

Grabber5.0
01-01-2013, 11:54 AM
The one thing I keep thinking about reading this thread is worn bearings. My old Maverick (the classic kind, not the Escape variant) had very little oil pressure at idle when it was at operating temp, but it was fine cold. I confirmed what the oil pressure light was saying by installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge (which to be honest I hate, but they are much more affordable than electric ones). It was just a worn out motor in spite of the fact that it ran great. I hope this isn't the case for you, but it seems like a possibility.

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dylanborns
01-01-2013, 06:29 PM
That definitely could be the case, and I hope not.... The only thing I don't understand is why its intermittent? It does only happen when the motors been running at operating temp for an extended amount of time, but not everytime I drive it. When I had it running in the garage for half an hour with a tester on it, it never came on and the lowest the pressure got was 18psi. I drove it about 12 miles this morning to work and had no issues.
I just need to add a mechanical gauge to it and see what I get. If I get the warning light and have the 18psi on the gauge, I'll know its a wiring or computer issue.

dylanborns
01-02-2013, 05:35 PM
I drove it home today and the light just flickered once at a stoplight but didn't come on constant. I picked up a mechanical gauge, but ran into another problem. The brass connection that came with it is to small for the adapter I have for the block. I tried to explain what I needed to the counter guy, but he didn't understand or they don't have what I need. I'm not even certain of what I need, so maybe I can get some help here.
The adapter I have has a 3/8" female connection. The adapter with the gauge has smaller threads, but I'm not sure exactly what the size of the threads are. The bigger nut on it takes a 9/16" wrench. The smaller one takes a 7/16" wrench.
http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/ae210/dborns/Adapter1_zps4334310b.jpg
I'd rather use the smaller adapter, (7/16"), because I'm starting to get so many adapters on this thing that I'm afraid I'm going to start having leaks. I know if I go online and order an adapter that is a 7/16" female to 3/8" male, it'll be the wrong size. The 3/8" male would be correct, but would the 7/16" female be the wrong size?
I've confused myself....

tempfixit
01-02-2013, 06:55 PM
GO to a hardware store, home depot, menards, ace hardware, etc.

I believe you made need a 3/8 male thread with a 1/4 inch female thread,

Take the mechanical gauge line along to get exactly what you need.

dylanborns
01-02-2013, 09:18 PM
Yeah I didn't have the "T" with me when I bought the oil gauge today, but from what I looked through at Oreilly, they didn't have the correct sizes. I'll try Ace again and see if I can come up with something since they have a ton of connectors. The only problem I ran into with the items they had were the threads weren't right for that "T".
If I can't find a match, I can actually use the oil pressure tester I used, but it just won't be ideal. I was thinking I could hook it all back up like I had it and run the tester up to the top of the motor. The rubber line on it is about 2' long and would get the actual gauge up on top and I could wire tie the line to the dipstick tube to keep it away from moving parts.
I would then have to stop the car when the light came on, open the hood, and read the dial. Sounds dumb, but that might be what I have to do.
I'm going to work on this friday, and I'll post the results.

I sure appreciate the help.

Grabber5.0
01-03-2013, 01:15 PM
The problem is the oil pressure is going to come up the second you put it in park and the RPM increases. Without a gauge you can read from inside the car, you are chasing your tail.

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dylanborns
01-03-2013, 04:52 PM
Yeah, anytime I take it out of park, the light does go out. I've got both adapters with me and will be stopping by ace in the morning.

tempfixit
01-03-2013, 05:49 PM
Yeah, anytime I take it out of park, the light does go out. I've got both adapters with me and will be stopping by ace in the morning.


You are saying that when you take it out of Park the light goes out, are you putting it in reverse from park or to neutral???????

Does the light stay on if you go to neutral right away??

Grabber5.0
01-03-2013, 06:59 PM
Maybe he means when he takes it out of drive? It wouldn't make sense to me the other way.

dylanborns
01-05-2013, 07:42 AM
If I take it out of drive into reverse, neutral, park, etc., the rpm's increase enough that the light goes out as Grabber mentioned. I didn't think about that when I was going to just use the tester as the gauge. The only way that would work is to have someone else with me and have them keep it in drive with the brakes on while I checked the gauge under the hood.
I'm still going to look for the adapters so I can do it correctly.

dylanborns
01-19-2013, 08:34 AM
So an update since I haven't added anything lately. I've been driving it for the past few weeks, and the oil light would flicker or come on intermittent, again only at idle. I also noticed that when I would start the car the oil pressure light would stay on for a little longer than normal, and I'm talking like two seconds longer than normal so not by much. I remember that in the past most of the lights would just blink when you start it and then go out, but it would stay on a little longer lately. I also noticed in the past few days, the airbag light would also stay on a bit longer than just that quick flash and shut off.
So this morning, I try to start it up and its dead. I go to jumpstart it, and notice the nuts that hold the ground wire onto the terminal clamp are loose. The wire itself could have been easily pulled out of the clamp. I also noticed that the actual clamp was also loose and would spin on the battery post pretty easily.
I was puzzled on how this would have come loose like that. I had removed the ground clamp from the post numerous times while replacing the coils and O2 sensors, but I thought I had it back on there tight. I then noticed that right over the top of the ground post, is where the Ford mechanic had placed the new ABS "console". I had had it in for a recall due to a short in the original ABS wiring, and they had placed the new box right over the post. This problem seemed to start soon after that recall work, but I didn't even think about it. I'm sure they removed the ground wire from the battery to do the work and didn't get it back together tight.
I drove it to work this morning, but didn't hit many stoplights, and it was a short drive which the problem normally shows up after the car really warms up and I've driven awhile.
My question after that much info is, that if the electrical system was "corrupt" with the ground wire being loose, could that have caused a gremlin that prompted that oil pressure light?

tempfixit
01-19-2013, 09:41 AM
So an update since I haven't added anything lately. I've been driving it for the past few weeks, and the oil light would flicker or come on intermittent, again only at idle. I also noticed that when I would start the car the oil pressure light would stay on for a little longer than normal, and I'm talking like two seconds longer than normal so not by much. I remember that in the past most of the lights would just blink when you start it and then go out, but it would stay on a little longer lately. I also noticed in the past few days, the airbag light would also stay on a bit longer than just that quick flash and shut off.
So this morning, I try to start it up and its dead. I go to jumpstart it, and notice the nuts that hold the ground wire onto the terminal clamp are loose. The wire itself could have been easily pulled out of the clamp. I also noticed that the actual clamp was also loose and would spin on the battery post pretty easily.
I was puzzled on how this would have come loose like that. I had removed the ground clamp from the post numerous times while replacing the coils and O2 sensors, but I thought I had it back on there tight. I then noticed that right over the top of the ground post, is where the Ford mechanic had placed the new ABS "console". I had had it in for a recall due to a short in the original ABS wiring, and they had placed the new box right over the post. This problem seemed to start soon after that recall work, but I didn't even think about it. I'm sure they removed the ground wire from the battery to do the work and didn't get it back together tight.
I drove it to work this morning, but didn't hit many stoplights, and it was a short drive which the problem normally shows up after the car really warms up and I've driven awhile.
My question after that much info is, that if the electrical system was "corrupt" with the ground wire being loose, could that have caused a gremlin that prompted that oil pressure light?

Loose or corroded and old weak batteries can cause all kinds of electrical issues on these vehicles nowdays. Hopefully you found your problem. Keep us posted.

dylanborns
01-21-2013, 09:12 AM
Yesterday morning after driving home, I left it running and tested the battery with a meter and it showed 13.6-14, so I knew the alternator was charging. After I shut it off, it was dead again so I knew it had to be the battery. I took it to get tested and noticed again loose wires; this time it was the positive wire. One of the bolts on the clamp holding the wire was pretty loose. The battery ended up being bad and I bought a new one. Driving it yesterday and this morning, the oil light did not come on, so I may have done all this work over loose connections and a bad battery! I know thats better than a problem with the motor though! I don't remember who mentioned something about the alternator in a past post, but that should have clued me in to checking the wiring.
Now I'll just have to see if its not an electrical issue like a drain on the battery somewhere. It was almost six years old though.
Thanks for all the suggestions and help!

dylanborns
01-23-2013, 12:36 PM
I've driven it since changing the battery for the past few days and had no issues until... This morning after driving about 20 miles it started again. I pulled over and checked the oil level and I can't tell but it looks like its over the full line. I don't know if that's just from driving and the oil sloshing around on the dipstick or not. Its hard to see where the oil actually is on the stick because its so new and clear.
If I've overfilled it, and the pressure is high will it cause the oil pressure light to come on or is it only when the pressure is low?

tempfixit
01-23-2013, 08:51 PM
Light should only come on when low oil pressure.. Have you installed the mechanicl gauge yet??

dylanborns
01-23-2013, 09:21 PM
Have you installed the mechanicl gauge yet??

No, I do have one, but I haven't had time without my little kids to go to Oreilly or Ace to find that correct adapter. I know its going to take quite awhile to figure out what I need, and two 5 year old girls get pretty antsy after about two minutes. I'll give it a try on friday because I know I need to get that in.

prmcgill
02-08-2013, 06:16 PM
I'm really anxious to see the results of your next test because I'm having the *exact* same problem. The oil pressure light on my 2001 Escape XLT with 3.0 L V6 and 115k miles started blinking at idle last week after an hour on the freeway (hot engine). I checked the oil, and seeing that I had plenty, I stopped driving the car until my mechanic could check it out.

First thing we tried was a new oil pressure switch because they're cheap. Thought I was good but two days later the light is back.

After a second new pressure switch, with the same result, we put a pressure gauge on the oil port and it shows 25 psi at idle, dropping to about 18 psi when the engine is hot. This should be plenty of pressure and the light shouldn't be on until it drops below ~6 psi.

We looked at the vehicle schematics, wondering if the signal goes through a computer to turn the fuel pump off when pressure is lost. Nope - the switch signal just goes through a couple of connectors to the light in the instrument cluster. That signal is either grounded by the switch when the pressure is low, turning on the light, or it's not when the pressure is good.

Right now we're stumped. My mechanic's a good guy and didn't even charge me for the second round of troubleshooting and second new switch. But now I have an oil pressure light that flickers constantly at idle. I guess I can live with that, knowing the pressure's good and the engine is okay, but it kills the resale value of the vehicle.

When I Google "ford escape oil pressure light" I see at least half a dozen other people complaining of the same problem, but they haven't made much progress with suggestions like "did you check the oil?" This forum thread is the only one that has any chance of solving this mystery.

dylanborns
02-13-2013, 08:45 PM
Does it seem like your idle is dropping like mine? It's right around the 500rpm mark when I'm sitting still and that's when the light flickers or comes on.

prmcgill
02-16-2013, 03:29 PM
Funny you should mention that. When I picked the car up from the shop the light was flickering at idle and I sat there in my driveway fiddling with the throttle. I noticed that the idle RPM sounded pretty low and that any increase, however slight, would make the light go out. I was wishing I had a tach other than the standard console gauge, which isn't too accurate below 1000 RPM. I completely forgot that I have a ScanGauge plugged into my ODBII port.

Of course now that I have my ScanGauge set to display RPM, the light isn't coming on. I do see that I'm at about 700 RPM at idle, and the light doesn't come on even with a hot engine.

My old oil pressure switch was definitely bad because it was leaking oil and the light was coming on even with the engine turning two grand driving down the road. Now all I can do is wait for the light to come back on and I'll let you know what I see on the RPM. Does anyone happen to know what the Ford spec for idle RPM is?

caribbeanma
04-15-2014, 05:55 PM
I have a 2002 Ford Escape XLT V6 4x4 and am also experiencing this intermittent flashing oil light. Wondering if you ever sorted it out. Thanks

prmcgill
04-15-2014, 06:25 PM
I decided it was a low RPM problem. I've seen the light flicker on a couple times in the year since I had the pressure sender replaced, and each time the RPMs were dropping below 700. I don't know what's causing the idle RPM to dip, but it happens so rarely that I haven't worried about it. I just have to hope it's not doing that on the day I sell the vehicle.

There's one other clue that may be a red herring but I'll throw it out there anyway: I had to replace my mass airflow sensor a few months ago because it was causing bad running and throwing OBDII faults. I'm wondering if the dirty MAF was causing unsteady idling, thus causing the oil pressure light issue. I haven't seen the oil pressure light on at all since the MAF was replaced.

I suggest you get an accurate RPM gauge and see what your idle RPM is. If it's dipping below 700 then you may have the same problem. If so, figure out what's causing the low idle. You might check to see how dirty your MAF is. They can be cleaned (Google it) but I was in a rush so I just replaced mine.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

chrs5503
01-08-2015, 11:00 PM
Hey I have a 02 escape 125000 miles with the same problem. Sometimes it will go away for a week or two and come back on. It usually always happens at operating temp when I come to a complete stop. When it comes on I hold the brake and raise the rpm to a little over a thousand and it will stay off until the rpm drops back to 600-800.here lately after I get off the interstate and it comes on It won't go off until I reach about 2300rpm or about thirty mph. I see this is common in the 3.0 and I was wondering what the actual fix is. I would usually assume oil pump or worn main bearings and even a cam synchronizer. So if anyone has actually had the same issues and fixed the issue feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

65comet
01-09-2015, 08:16 AM
Mine it was the pickup screen in the oil pan was 90% clogged. Dropping the pan with the exhaust manifold to exhaust nuts corroded away was a pain, but putting it back with a nice seal that no longer leaked and no more oil light till the pump gave way at 180,000 was nice.

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