2.4L Water Pump replacement__any specialty tools required

11-01-2012, 08:46 AM
Hey everyone

So I have done some reading on these forums and can only guess that it is my water pump that is shot.

1999 Olds Alero with 2.4 L engine

Everyday when I back out of my parking spot, there is a large puddle of antifreeze under the car, mid point near the firewall. I have to add 1 liter of antifreeze a week/100 kms. I am thinking it is a "low pressure" leak, cause when it is running, there is no major spray noticeable. Weird.

After getting the estimate from the local garage of $ 700.00 (mostly labour) for a $ 100.00 water pump, I am going to tackle this one myself.

Can't believe Oldsmobile did just a crazy thing like hiding the water pump so deeeeep into the caverns on a 2.4L.

I am not overly concerned with this bigger puzzle, but want to be sure before I get it all apart and tie up the prime spot in the garage called the "wife's parking spot". Got to get it in and out quick :)

Will I need any specialty tools, for things like removing the timing gears or anything else that is goofy on this repair job.


Tech II
11-01-2012, 10:08 PM
Bad design by GM......when you had the 2.3, the w/p sprocket was built into the front cover housing, and the pump just pulled out the back because it was splined to the sprocket......on the 2.4, they made the sprocket part of the pump so the front cover has to be removed, and the timing chain released(not removed) from the tensioner(do this by removing the tensioner)......

They sell a kit that has all the gaskets(rubber one for back of timing housing, paper for the pump halves, and paper for where the pump attaches to the back of the block, rubber seal for thermostat(should buy a new one at this time), and a new ex manifold gasket)......

Only tools out of the ordinary are a puller for the harmonic balancer, and the timing dowels for the cam sprockets(correct size drill bits can be used, use the shank ends).....

I think this is a 5 hour job......if never done before, and no access to lift or air tools, figure 10 hours....

Definitely get a manual for this.......put the engine in the "timed position" BEFORE RELEASING THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER......

Like I said, do a new thermostat....lot of mileage? Replace tensioner and shoe.....finally when the chain and tensioner is on(and released), rotate the crank 2X's and make sure the dowels(drill bits) fit in the cam holes and the mark on the crank sprocket aligns with the mark on the rear cover housing.....you don't want to put the cover back on until you double check the "timed position".....

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