97 2.2 abs brake lights on

hi i trying to trace why the ABS light is on

i checked the fuse its fine i swapped the relay on all 4 brakes i unplugged the sensor wire and put a wire across the connector to short it out and i did same for the 2 brake relays and the low brake fluid level and still its on

what would cause it or where would i even look? and if i have to recheck each brake connector what would the voltage be when not pressing on the brakes

so i have bled the rear bunch of times i did driver side and then passenger side got told to do that first but i read not to but at this point dont think it matters

light is on and the pledle still goes close to floor yet no air coming out of lines
it has the ABS and the solidnoide pack on the top of the master clyinder there i bleed those 2 valves no air

read more online they talk about using a tech1 tool to make the valves stay open? but come on i dont have that is there a way to do this ? i figured turn key on a couple times i dunno

what is a way to do this as this is anonying there has to be a way

Back up....was brake work done on the vehicle? Was there a leak or did the master reservoir ever get too low?

If the ABS light is on, a code is set.....you need to read the code with an ABS capable scanner.....

Was the pedal going to the floor before or just after you did work on it?

i replaced new lines from the master clyinder right to back into new flex rubber hoses then into new line into new rear brake clyinders both side

the ABS light and the brake light are on

i dont have a scanner that can read ABS light i do have the HP Tuners tool and the Scan Tool from Canadian Tire the 300 dollar one but you need to pay 100 bucks to add on the ABS feature but wont tell all ABS issues i been told


pedal just after the work done like if i pump the pedal its tight if the car is off but when you start it then it likes to go almost to the floor but shut it off and it builds pressure no problem

i going to i guess replace the front calipers and flex hoses

one side just stripped the bleeder valve so couldnt even untighen it and other side the bleeder screw snapped clean off
so figure maybe if i replace thsoe and the flex hoses it fix it all?

There should be no problem with the front, if there wasn't before....

Did you try gravity bleeding the lines or, the best way, use a vacuum pump to suck the fluid to the rear brakes(making sure fluid level is ok in the master cylinder reservoir).....

no gravity just pumped it a few times then press to floor then release, press to floor, release, did that 10 times

and still abs light is on and pedal still trys to go to floor when car is running but stifff when its off

so what does that mean

ill make my own vacume pump version as the one at c-tire is 80 bucks and i already have a vacum pump for doing A/C's 1.5 so that is good enough just use a jar

and if that doesnt work then what? and i cant bleed front

but only work i done on front was press it back to put new pads on

The only time you would have a problem with the front, if you opened it up, or if you allowed the reservoir to get too low......

no gravity just pumped it a few times then press to floor then release, press to floor, release, did that 10 times

and still abs light is on and pedal still trys to go to floor when car is running but stifff when its off

so what does that mean?

It means you screwed up.......you replaced brake lines all the way to the rear, did not gravity bleed them, so they are full of air, and you think you are going to bleed them by pumping the pedal? Pumping the pedal with air in the system does nothing......

Open the rr bleeder....make sure reservoir is full......now just let the line to rr gravity bleed.....may take a long time with all the air in the system(faster method with mechanical vac pump)....something like a an electric pump could pull a vac too fast, and suck that reservoir dry and then you start admitting air again......

If you have luck gravity bleeding, like I said, it will take awhile, then close bleeder and do the same to the LR bleeder.....once bled, now you need a second person.....Have them slowly pump the brake pedal a couple of times, then hold pressure to the pedal......now open the RR bleeder.....pedal should go to floor.......keep foot on pedal on the floor....close bleeder......slowly pump the pedal and hold pressure again......open bleeder......hold pedal on floor......close bleeder.....repeat as many times it takes until only fluid comes out and no spits of air.......then do the same to the LR side.....

Keep an eye on the reservoir, that the fluid level doesn't drop too much during bleeding....add fluid as necessary.....then check your pedal.....

ah ok i have no idea now i did the brake lines last year so it sat for a year before i just worked on it again car never started all this time

so even though i have someone pump the brake and i have no air spitting out it has air in it? e pe

ill just use my vacum pump and pull the flurid as when i do the pedal thing i dont get air at all just fluid

but ill re try again frustrating though

so i made a bleeder vacume with a glass coffee jar i did the passenger rear and i couldnt get a good seal on the bleeder valve with the hose so it took a long time to suck fluid through but i did a half a jar roughly i pulled i guess a half a liter and then i closed off the valve and did the driver rear it sucked worse and then it stopped sucking fluid and just started sucking air outside on the sides of the tube even pulling valve off and wait for gravity to come it didnt come anymore and i even put hose flush with the hole no fluid , so i put the plug back in and had my mother press on the brakes and pump doing regular bleeding no air just brake fluiid then did the rear passanger

but still air in it but it cant be in the lines going to the back has to be to the front ones right? as its tight on the back when you press the brake jsut lights are still on and the pedal is soft then hard but when engine off its always stiff

ok so i got fed up and since i trying to get this car on the road for certfiying i decided to replace the front calipers and still no luck still has air, i have never had so much difficulty after doing new lines

are there bleeder screws that are longer that you can buy? like with a stepped other end so you can slide a hose on and it wont suck air and ill re try with vacum pump as i dont know where there is air

l like to know how fast should a vacume pump be pulling the brake fluid out of the lines as mine isnt

i twisted a wire on the on hose to the brake bleeder valve so it cant suck air really and i put plastersine around it and the 2 fittings that go into the jar one is the brake hose other is the vacume pump yet its not sucking the fluid through fast and still sucking air whats up with that? figured it should be sucking a stream of fluid


and are there fittings with hose nipples that tread into the valve holes?

ok i stuck
i rented a brake bleeder vacume pump mechanical
now using that is almost impossible to use as it takes forever to suck easier if i suck on the hose

so i hooked it to my 1.5cfm vacume pump it sucked it through with air you see i guess cuz the hose is thicker but it sucked it through, i did 5 bottles and kept toping it off i noticed the driver back is very hard to suck through is that normal?

but when i did that and i bymyself i pressed on the brake and it never built up pressure why would it not have pressure??? after i sucked fluid through


then i started car and it was even worse no brake so that means it put air in the system i take it? how do you properly suck the brakes vacume style?

soi today i have retried the hand pump doing rear passenger i suck and it sucks the fluid but not like a straw without air its constantly sucking air but sicked the fluid through

i did the 2 screws under the hood by the resovoir same deal sucks air i guess it cant suck it cleanly through

now i did the rear driver it sucked up the fluid like a straw and was filling slowly then either by chance or what not it started sucking air but and down it sucked -20 hg without and fluid coming through

that the the valves under the hood closed that it doesnt allow it to flow smoothly? if so how you make them go open? put 12 volts to them have car running? or what can home mechanic do?

so i have tried this i have no touched the brake pedal as i by myself

i hooked up my 1.5cfm vac pump to the mechical pump version cuz it has teh rubber fittings that go in the screw hole and run it this is the driver back well no fluid comes out and it has crushs the rubber hose from the suction so whats going on why is this? how i get the fluid to go through?

on the passenger rear i have it gravity feeding and its going through fine as the resiover is going down slowly

so what is the matter? how i fix that?

ok i getting really frustrated now

i have bleed the brakes with car off i bleed the brakes car running

i have also put a bottle higher the the bleed screws and just pumped brakes till the bottle is filled and fille up resvior with car running and not

several times


the car when off pumps pressure tight after 3 pumps when engine running still presses in a lot before pressure and there is no possible sign of air i can see

yet abs/brake light on and i got air or something how the heck do you check it

i bleed all 6 bleeders is there another bleeder? cuz this just getting ridiculus

so i now replaced the master cylinder for the brakes and bleed all 6 lines i still feel air dunno how

but if i use it a bit it builds up pressure if i pump it several times while car is running is gets to press farther to the floor is that normal? but it seems to brake ok

when driving in driveway and you lock up brakes only the fronts lock up as the back roll is that normal when the abs light is on?

and i did the wire trick over the contacts of the wires for the abs but light stays on but if i use a multimeter should there be voltage if so how much? as then i can trace if its bad wiring etc

so i bought front abs sensors and just plugged them into not installed but light didnt go out does it have to be installed to get light off or should they be working fine?

as then id have to repace the rear sensors trying to pin point which one

Why are you buying sensors when you don't know what the code is?

Let's get back to base brakes.....

You still haven't bled all air from the system.....there are four lines coming out of the modulator, one to each wheel.....I assume the front lines are ok.......find the two lines that go to the rear brakes.......start with the RR line.......disconnect it from the modulator......open the bleeder to the RR.....take a clear hose and attach it to the end of the line, coming out of the modulator......stick the other end of the hose in the bottom of a full bottle of brake fluid.....use as short a hose as possible, but it has to go to the bottom of the bottle.....use a size that will fit tight over the flare of the line(just slide nut backwards)......

Now attach a clear hose to the open bleeder of the RR wheel cylinder........can use a vac pump setup that goes through a cup, or if you are real careful, and use a long clear line, you can just suck very slowly with your mouth, until you see fluid come out of the bleeder......has to be a long clear line so that you can easily see the fluid and stop sucking so you don't get brake fluid in your mouth(toxic!!!!!!).....close the bleeder, reattach the line to the modulator, and now you know the line is full......

Do the exact same thing to the other side(LR)......just remember to keep the bottle full, so you don't suck air into the line.....

Now you know both lines to the rear are full of fluid....make sure the reservoir is full.......now you need someone to just push down on the brake pedal, don't pump....there are two bleeders on top of the MC/Modulator.....with pressure kept on the pedal, open the rearward bleeder....the pedal should fall to the floor as fluid air comes out(you can make this less messy by attaching a clear hose and sticking it into an empty container).....close the bleeder, then let the brake pedal come back up....SLOWLY PUMP THE PEDAL, then hold when there is good pressure.....again open the rear bleeder....pedal goes to floor....close bleeder....release pedal...repeat until no air comes out....

Then do the same thing to the front bleeder.....keep the reservoir fill.....

Now, SLOWLY, pump the pedal to pressure and hold......crack the fitting, on the line at the modulator that goes to the rr wheel....pedal should drop to floor as fluid/air comes out.....tighten fitting, now let pedal up....SLOWLY, pump brake pedal and then hold......repeat bleeding procedure until no air.....

Now do the same to the fitting on the line going to the LR wheel.....

Now go to the RR wheel, and bleed that wheel....remember, keep the reservoir full, and SLOWLY pump the brakes to get pressure and hold it before opening the bleeder.....then do the LR wheel........

You can do the front's, but I don't think it is necessary.......should have a good pedal now....

ok ill re try monday it seems to be working now as well as my 2004 cav it doesnt work as good as a brand new car where u press 1/2" and its already got pressure but u press 2 inches or so then you feel the pressure

is that what i should be getting press 1/2" and its already braking?? or is that new cars 2008 and newer?

but ill re try all that monday

ok i havent had chance to bleed brakes again

but i bought 2 new rear hubs plugged them in brake light abs light still on

then i plugged in the brand new frotn abs sensors not installed just dangling and so all 4 sensors plugged in lights still on

waht the hell is keeping it on? i have already replaced the master cylinder from a working car and just had it installed in

i have swappwed out the 2 fuses and the relay and yet still lights are still on what would keep it on? and how can you test the wiring? where does it go to etc

as for the code no code reader tells u ABS for a 1997 cav it starts at 2000

and since this car is not road worthy till the abs light is on so i can go get this car certified i cant take it to garage yet so i need the abs light gone

like what else would keep these lights on

and what is the voltage should be if i use mulit meter at each pigtail to test the voltage coming from wherever the abs wires go? as the car is sitting on 4 blocks and tires all off i wanna be able to test if the voltage if any is making it to the sensors or what not

is there a diagram like this for BMW?? where it shows the pin outs etc

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=341672