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'01 LS V8 will run with new battery


34Ford
08-13-2012, 11:08 AM
Well here I am back with the same issue as the last 2 batteries.
Ever since the wife has had this car, the last 2 batteries would spin the starter, but it wouldn't run.
Bought batteries and it fixed it.

But damn, now her battery is only 13 months old.

Is it true that if the battery gets just week enough that the motor is starved for enough juice for it to run?

Last dealer couldn't figure out why she needed a battery when the one she replaced was good. I told them do it anyway, and it worked, last year.

She called the dealer today and their saying its the alternator is pulling it down. I say BS. Its not a dead battery, its a temperamental motor, I guess.

I dont know what to do. This is getting old.

joegr
08-13-2012, 12:03 PM
Your alternator is failing. You need to replace the alternator (use only OEM Ford, rebuilt or new). You will probably have to replace the battery one more time too (failing alternator probably killed it).

With a good alternator, the car will continue (even with a weak battery) to run after it is jump started.

danielsatur
08-13-2012, 12:05 PM
1) Have both the battery + alternator load tested.
2) Make sure your battery isn't being drain with the ignition off & key out.
3) Make sure all connections are clean & tight, this could prevent the alternator from doing it's job.

shorod
08-14-2012, 06:43 AM
It's not the engine that needs the strong battery, it's all the car's electronics. And it does seem the LS is more sensitive to a strong battery than most modern cars. But, only getting about a year out of a battery is not typical. I wouldn't be surprised if you were having this issue every 3 years, but every 13 months, yeah.

How often is the car driven, and what is the typical distance that the car is driven regularly? Do you have a way (multimeter) to test the charging system voltage once the car is running?

On my cars, which don't see many long trips each year, I do sporadically use a desulfator on the batteries to attempt to keep them healthy longer. It may be something for you to consider as well.

-Rod

34Ford
08-14-2012, 08:57 AM
I was gonna check the charging volts yesterday evening but of all things my Explorer battery went dead too, and in the process of moving the battery charger, (its on wheels), the dang thing fell over and hit my shin and I had to call it a night with a ice pack.:banghead:

Back to the LS now.
I dont know yet, but Saturday I cleaned the battery posts and so far it has started ok for her.

I have a analog meter, what should the high volts check while running?
I guess for a load test I need to visit the Advance Auto.

joegr
08-14-2012, 10:20 AM
Engine running, you should get 14.0 to 14.5 volts. Less than 13.8V is a problem. Over 14.8V is a serious problem. Be sure to turn the headlights on and set the AC fan to high while doing this test. Also check that the reading is steady. Many alternator problems are intermittent, so the alternator may go from charging to not charging and back to charging.

danielsatur
08-14-2012, 10:39 AM
Found a good video, Google ''Youtube DIY Auto fixing battery drain scotty''
www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_qK90IIc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_qK90IIc)

Always turn all bells + whistles off prior to destination, and don't turn on until a Cold morning start is running normal operating Temp.

joegr
08-14-2012, 11:20 AM
...
Always turn all bells + whistles off prior to destination, and don't turn on until a Cold morning start is running normal operating Temp.

Not required. I leave everything on and restart with it on. (climate control, heated/cooled seats, auto headlights, navigation/radio, radar detector, ...) I've never had any problems. The PCM disables the heavy loads (like AC compressor) until the engine is at a good idle speed. The additional electrical loads are so small compared to the hundreds of amps that the starter takes as to not matter. They can make a difference if your battery is marginal, but if your battery is marginal it needs to be replaced. The factory batteries in both of my LSes lasted about five to six years. The replacement batteries are still going strong.

34Ford
08-15-2012, 10:23 AM
With headlights on I got 14 volts. Should have checked with a digital too.

Knock on wood, so far it has started ok since I cleaned the posts.
While Im here, has anyone found these batteries anywhere other than a dealer?

shorod
08-15-2012, 01:04 PM
I got the battery for my wife's LS at a non-OEM store but I don't recall if it was O'Reilly Auto Parts or Batteries Plus. I will add though that the battery I got non-OEM did NOT have the vent like the OEM battery does.

-Rod

joegr
08-15-2012, 04:39 PM
You really want one with the vent connection. (All car batteries vent hydrogen under adverse conditions.)

Anyway, I think you can get one with a vent connection from Napa and a few other places. However, the cost is about the same as the dealer.

Let's hope that you are lucky and the real problem was the battery connections and not the alternator.

34Ford
08-16-2012, 09:44 AM
Well its thursday now and its been starting ok, so I guess the posts or clamps was the problem.

Oh, she needs it inspected. I wonder if the air bag lamp being on will cause it to not pass.

I know, its the clock spring. I dont suppose I will find a new one under $155.

34Ford
08-16-2012, 11:15 AM
Failed inspection. No horn.

Uh, I dread tearing into the steering wheel, course replacing that DCCV and timing chain tensioners wasn't any fun either.

Wish we could afford a Taurus.

34Ford
08-17-2012, 06:12 AM
Clock spring on its way.

She had trouble with it not wanting to start yesterday.
Guess I am looking for a alternator now.

34Ford
09-10-2012, 10:29 AM
Took me 6 hours to replace the alternator Friday laying on my back.:mad:
Damn I am sore.

Got all 3 bolts out right, For the love of pete, I could not get it to come out due to the fit was so tight on the top and could only move it 1/2" back and forth for over a hour.
Wiggle, wiggle, let my arms down to rest, wiggle, wiggle.
Then I had the same problem putting the new one back in.

Her LS is gonna kill me.

danielsatur
09-10-2012, 10:46 AM
LOL - It's sounds like you spent more time on your back with your car instead of wife.
You might consider cutting the relationship with her car.

I really do feel your pain, we got 2- S type jaguars that are even more of a pain in the butt.
Actually, my 2002 Ford Taurus is a better car, and the parts & fuel are cheaper!

34Ford
09-11-2012, 02:22 PM
Yep, your right, and I was to sore to even think of climbing on her.

We wished we could afford a Taurus, we like the 2010's body style.

I was just down at the local Harley dealership and there was a LS down there same color as the wifes, V8 , and probably same year and it had a matching color spoiler on the back.
Looked good. But the body was beat to to crap from hell damage.

joegr
09-11-2012, 06:01 PM
... But the body was beat to to crap from hell damage.

I guess that's a level or two worse then hail damage?

34Ford
09-13-2012, 10:39 AM
Doh!

34Ford
06-10-2013, 08:53 AM
Well here I am back again. Same damn issue, starter spins great, motor will not fire till you add another battery with jumper cables and zoom.

New alternator didn't help.

Get the wife a battery booster and carry it around? But what a pain for her to connect the cables.

Buy another battery, (every 12 to 18 months).

I am also considering buying one of those sealed battery boxes so I can buy a non dealer lincoln battery too.

joegr
06-11-2013, 10:33 AM
What brand was the replacement alternator? Anything other than the OEM and you are going to have trouble. (Gen I has an unusual alternator control strategy and no one else seems to be able to do it correctly.)

34Ford
06-12-2013, 07:47 AM
"unusual alternator control strategy" ?

oreilly just did a check on it this morning and said everything checks ok.

Well duh, thats the same thing the ford dealership said last June.
But a new battery seems to fix it.

There has got to be something not getting the voltage it requires after these batteries are a year old.

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