Rebuilding Dad's Panoz; LS1 swap

We can rebuild him... we have the technology...
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/562114_3839912847559_667029082_n.jpg

Done with the post race inspection/next race prep on the Z06. Time to push the Panoz in.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/246496_3840840430748_1912810488_n.jpg

Taking it all apart to paint the chassis/interior gloss white.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/196083_3842031140515_1255162179_n.jpg

Wing was surprisingly heavy; all metal.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/255273_3842031260518_560457107_n.jpg

The neighbors love me.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/403498_3842030820507_2005077625_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/545065_3842031380521_1113254809_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/255307_3842031500524_1981996609_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/403492_3842031660528_1390448752_n.jpg

That's sitting at an odd angle...
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/251908_3842031820532_180410960_n.jpg

Piece of shit Ford
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/540537_3842031980536_390876887_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/522146_3842032100539_380748010_n.jpg

Will update and bug Eric a bunch as I progress.

~Brian

No more hacked up 15+ year old EFI harness and wiring job...

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/250901_3848795429618_1466773992_n.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/PanozInterior.jpg

It's broke good... it'll be interesting to see if something in the bottom-end failed or if the block just let go from being too weak for the application. It was only making around 370 rwhp. Piece of shit.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/548257_3862722137777_1986081682_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/582684_3862683056800_1114524769_n.jpg

Body panels all off...
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/552440_3870954863590_834339894_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/314763_3870954583583_1882276249_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/529366_3870586134372_1931944752_n.jpg

My buddy Sonny brought his son Mason over to check out the racecar :cool:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/553330_3870955583608_1162864632_n.jpg

Radiator support and front suspension all removed. Getting ready to pull the engine.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/376815_3921840255693_1362413661_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/529428_3921845735830_451401469_n.jpg

Front suspension assemblies
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/252740_3921847775881_1657754210_n.jpg

Brembos going to get rebuilt and fresh powdercoat
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/483163_3921855776081_1191382388_n.jpg

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/483163_3921855776081_1191382388_n.jpg

Thanks Brian, that brake caliper photo confirmed it...............I thought our calipers were silver before our 4 hour race in the weekend. Now all 4 are a uniform bronze/gold colour from the heat (I was running ducting to the rears as well from a side scoop). Wouldnt believe it if I hadnt seen yours!!

Kel.

Brian,
Thanks for all these photos. Really good reference for how these cars are put together and what is involved in a full disassembly.

Following up on my other post about reducing interior heat, did you add the exhaust wrap and if so how much difference did it make?

Mike

Brian,
Thanks for all these photos. Really good reference for how these cars are put together and what is involved in a full disassembly.

Following up on my other post about reducing interior heat, did you add the exhaust wrap and if so how much difference did it make?

Mike
We had the side pipes coated in a 2000 degree "turbo" coating and then we wrapped them. Car was still very hot. I think part of that was due to the location of the muffler right next to the occupant and how close it was to the tub to fit the big Flowmaster in there (in an effort to make the car quieter). This time I'm going to use a 6" diameter magnaflow race muffler and put it much farther forward on the pipe. Probably just aft of the forward exhaust hanger. Car will be loud, but Dad's in his 60s so going deaf isn't a concern :smile:

When I cut the cats out of the mid-pipe on my Z06 I left that area unwrapped so I could keep an eye on my shade-tree mechanic welds over time. Laying up under the car with it running, the difference in radiant heat from the wrapped areas vs. unwrapped sections is astounding. So I'd say yes, it makes a big difference.

Trying to figure out if the bottom end failed and the crank snapped. Or, did the block fail first and then take out the bottom end? The thing that pisses me off is that it never completed a track weekend in 2011 w/o some kind of issue. The car was shifted at 6000 rpms and was making around 370 rwhp:

March - Filling up catch can and custom dipstick gets stuck.

July - Breaks a valve spring. Shop used old springs that were on the heads that came off the blown up 5.0 that was swapped out.

October - Car chucks the water pump pulley. Bolts weren't safety wired and I had no idea that was something that had to be checked. Car is my father's and I just don't know Fords like I do LSXs.

February (2012)- Catastrophic failure on the back straight of VIR at top of 4th gear; no warnings, oil pressure fine.

It started ticking when my dad got it back from the valve spring replacement in July last year. Shop swore it was a lazy lifter, but I felt otherwise. It sounded like rod nock to me, but they were adamant it was fine. Of course when it shit the bed in February they said it was that the stock block was too week for the power.

Supposed lifter tick (probably rod knock) - http://youtu.be/VxQLDHpGgeA

Any tips on what to look for as I dig into this thing? Very curious if the block failed or if the crank/bottom end failed.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/524195_3925598229640_1979571062_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/3649_3925667151363_916665918_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/576116_3925668671401_1062846056_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/483333_3925669791429_1616147104_n.jpg

Brian,
I only have limited personal experience with engine meld downs. I think you will know better when you get a good look at the crank and rods. If the crank is broken, one or more rods broken and bearing(s) melted, it was probably a rod letting go and taking out the block. If the bearings are basically OK and no rods are broken, the block probably failed. From my knowledge, the late model 5.0 blocks are considered safe to about 400 hp. At the rear wheel numbers you had, it was marginal. Mine (331) is about 100 hp less than yours, but I intend to push it up another 25-50 hp. I'm comfortable with that and have taken all the precautions I can think of (28 oz. recipricating assemby with good parts, main studs and girdle, careful block prep. My bet is that you know a rod knock when you hear it. 6000 seems well within the means of the reciprocating assembly and I think the horse power should have been OK. The 400 limit is based on extreme shock loads like power shifting , drag race launches with slicks. I doubt you guys ever did that to the motor. The lateral crack along the side of the lock is a typical 5.0 block failure, but some of the other damage is consistent with a crank or rod failure.When the pan comes off and you look at the bearings it should be clearer. Since my motor is a 5.0 stroker, I'm very interested in your conclusions.

I've never laced the water pump pulley bolts, just used a standard lock washers, grade 5 or 8 bolts and torqued to spec. At the rpm you were turning, it should have been under nothing but a normal load. No special concern regarding the Ford versus GM set ups.

Mike

The eagle has landed. LS1 crate motor for a GTO.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/484577_3953422245223_1285286576_n.jpg

looking "good". Working on getting the motor mounts boxed up and sent out for the LS motor!

Engine torn down. Only found one bent valve. Other than that heads are fine. Can't get the cam out though... comes 1/2 way out and get stuck. I can see a loose cam bearing and it could be bent, who knows... off to the metal yard it'll go.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/378230_3984071131426_1306685353_n.jpg

Trans cover removed... access is nice to have.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/c68.0.403.403/p403x403/385566_3995105127269_262158246_n.jpg

Got it out. Need to finish taking the trans off and seeing if the clutch is worth a heck. If the main shaft isn't messed up the trans will be refreshed and for sale. It's a Tremec 3550 and one of the few things on this car that never gave us any trouble.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/c68.0.403.403/p403x403/376764_3995107967340_858210918_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/c68.0.403.403/p403x403/560885_3986627195326_1605350402_n.jpg

Almost ready to roll the frame out for some power-washing then on to the welding and fitting everything.

Eric,
What did you find after the oil pan was off?

Mike

Haven't taken the pan off... got the engine/trans out and put it on a tire. First order of business is to get the chassis ready for the powdercoater which means test fitting the new engine/trans and doing any/all welding i.e. filling holes, relocating mounts/brackets, and welding in a proper harness bar.

~Brian

Haven't taken the pan off... got the engine/trans out and put it on a tire. First order of business is to get the chassis ready for the powdercoater which means test fitting the new engine/trans and doing any/all welding i.e. filling holes, relocating mounts/brackets, and welding in a proper harness bar.

~Brian

Coming along nicely Brian.

You know you have to put the stock 5.0 block Ford runners out of their collective misery at some stage though..........so they get to weep over those broken main webs that most likely caused the demise of the crank as well!!

Will post a photo of my new "bronze" calipers at some stage. They will get the same treatment this weekend as running an hour long race at another tight circuit.

Kel.

Got the engine out of the crate and onto the stand. Need to do some basic prep for road course duty:
1. LS6 springs
2. LS2 timing chain
3. LS4 high volume oil pump
4. ATI balancer
5. Kevco baffled oil pan
etc. etc.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/c68.0.403.403/p403x403/531674_4004535043011_1828148051_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/c68.0.403.403/p403x403/315481_4004537963084_555464357_n.jpg

Edelbrock valley cover (no knock sensors)
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/524313_4011379294113_125589691_n.jpg

Old-style LS1 coolant pipe and Performer RPM manifold
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/386935_4024433700465_669776647_n.jpg

Brian;
Why did you pick the Performer RPM maniflod? Did you consider the Victor Jr?

Brian;
Why did you pick the Performer RPM maniflod? Did you consider the Victor Jr?
Yep... but every single post I read on LS1tech and every single magazine comparison pushed me to the dual plane setup for this application. The performer RPM makes mower power/torque in the 4000-6000 rpm range. It's really only over 6000 rpms that the Victor Jr. takes over. This engine will be shifted at 6200 with a 6500 rpm rev limiter.

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_0612_ls2_crate_motor/

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1103_tfs_cylinder_head_and_cam_ls1_package/viewall.html

Snap goes the crankshaft. The mains are all intact, rods banged up but all intact as well.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/418722_4036791369399_1370460267_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/557467_4036798329573_320735076_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/190080_4036800169619_473064984_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/557438_4036802729683_1101697513_n.jpg

Snap goes the crankshaft. The mains are all intact, rods banged up but all intact as well.

I guess what you will never know Brian (unless crank breaks are looked at under electron microscope......) is whether the crank went before No 2 main web or vice versa. There are quite a few 302/347 failure pics on the web that look very much the same as yours. Common factor is crank and web breakage and usually at no 2 main.

Nice looking rods. Way to good to put into a stock block!! Any idea what the crank was? What balance was the engine, 28oz or 50oz?

Kel.

What causes the breakage? The engine was only making around 370 rwhp. Is that simply too much for the actual block to to point the main bearing web fractured? What would cause a crankshaft to just snap other than bad harmonics? This was only a 6000 rpm motor. I don't know what crank it was, but I know it was quality stuff. I think the engine was 28oz balance.

What causes the breakage? The engine was only making around 370 rwhp. Is that simply too much for the actual block to to point the main bearing web fractured? What would cause a crankshaft to just snap other than bad harmonics? This was only a 6000 rpm motor. I don't know what crank it was, but I know it was quality stuff. I think the engine was 28oz balance.

What I have been told by an experienced 5.0 engine builder is that the production block, properly deburred and with the 50 oz imbalance is all done at about 400 hp. I believe that was flywheel hp. He was addressing motors used in drag racing where the shock loads are higher than road racing. An internally balanced crank with studs or 28.2 imbalance and stud girdle raise that to 450hp. I'd say your motor was within those limits. If the block had been previously tweaked or had an undetected flaw, that would better explain this failure. Even high dollar cranks can be defective. Cobrafang had a forged and carefully assembled 347 break the crank at the number 1 main at less than 4000 rpm. The block was intact. The crank was an Eagle and they replaced it free after examination. Stand up company. Those failures of quality parts are rare, but happen.

Mike

What causes the breakage? The engine was only making around 370 rwhp. Is that simply too much for the actual block to to point the main bearing web fractured? What would cause a crankshaft to just snap other than bad harmonics? This was only a 6000 rpm motor. I don't know what crank it was, but I know it was quality stuff. I think the engine was 28oz balance.

I think the first thing to bear in mind is the "only" 370 rwhp bit. These blocks are emmissions era parts that have been optimised at the factory to be cost effective to make (i.e. as little material as possible) and to withstand thier design loads. The factory hp rating for these engines would be lucky to be over 210 rwhp. So with a litte rounding we are at nearly double the factory output at 370 rwhp. I ran mine to 390 rwhp and did a 6 hour endurance race on it but pulled it after that as I expected it to chernobyl shortly thereafter.

The actual failure mode is debatable. I am sure that some are crank failures and others are web failures that cause the crank to fail. If you look at the common aftermarket band aids available (botton end and valley girdles) they target a common issue. Lack of torsional rigidity in the standard block. This is caused by the main webs having insufficient material to handle large torque loads.

If you compare the standard block to a Dart or World Products block it is night and day. The Dart block I am using has so much more material in the critical areas that it is easy to see why the standard block is a failure waiting to happen. At the end of the day there is prep that can be done to assist but the block will always be a weak link that can and is likely to lead to failure. There is loads and loads of speculative guff on the web about what the 5.0 block can and cant withstand. The best advice I saw written was why put H beam rods into a block that will fail before the benefits of the H beam rods are required.............(ditto for forged cranks as the block flex is likely to aid in breaking a forged crank).

Just one ex 5.0 stockblock runners views.........(and I never broke one)!!

Kel.

Finally got the chassis completely stripped. Ready for a power-washing then going to do some welding and then off to the powdercoater.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0860.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0861.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0862.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0863.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0864.jpg

Chassis degreased and powerwashed. Doesn't look like much but getting all the adhesive residue from the old heat insulation on the tub was a chore. Time for welding. Going to weld up all the holes from the rivets that held on the old heat insulation panels, weld in a proper harness bar, and relocate the steering column a little etc.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0890.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0892.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0891.jpg

TKO 600 and QuickTime bellhousing from Liberty Gears showed up today :D

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0894.jpg

TKO 600 and QuickTime bellhousing from Liberty Gears showed up today :D

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/IMG_0894.jpg

Nice. Did you get standard synchro TKO?

Make sure you clock up the trans mounting faces on the back of the bellhousing Brian. Flat on back face under .005" and concentricity of location hole. Cant speak for Quicktime products but many need eccentric dowel pins to get them within tolerace for racing. Otherwise you can have shifting and input bearing probs.

Kel.

Nice. Did you get standard synchro TKO?

Make sure you clock up the trans mounting faces on the back of the bellhousing Brian. Flat on back face under .005" and concentricity of location hole. Cant speak for Quicktime products but many need eccentric dowel pins to get them within tolerace for racing. Otherwise you can have shifting and input bearing probs.

Kel.
It has Liberty's synchro package and the optional .82 5th gear. QuickTime has a good reputation and for the price of that bellhousing I sure hope it's square and oriented correctly. Any tips on how to measure this stuff? Are you looking for flatness of the rear of the bellhousing, or parallelism between the engine face and rear of the housing, or both? How do you go about checking to verify everything is centered up perfectly?

It has Liberty's synchro package and the optional .82 5th gear. QuickTime has a good reputation and for the price of that bellhousing I sure hope it's square and oriented correctly. Any tips on how to measure this stuff? Are you looking for flatness of the rear of the bellhousing, or parallelism between the engine face and rear of the housing, or both? How do you go about checking to verify everything is centered up perfectly?

Brian, with engine on floor on blocks;

1. Fit and torque flywheel and bellhousing,
2. Use magnetic based DTI and attach to flywheel inner circumference,
3. Set up DTI so that it is reaching back out through trans mounting hole in bellhousing onto trans mount face,
4. Zero DTI and then rotate engine 90 degs to check parallelism of back face of bellhousing to back face of block, repeat until you have readings every 90 degs (min), you should have prefereably only around .002" out and less than .005" max,
5. Set up DTI so that you can run it around the inside diameter of the trans location hole in the bellhousing, zero DTI,
6. Again rotate engine and get readings every 90 degs to check concentricity with crank centerline, same limits.

If you are outside .005", parallelism can be adjusted by shimming or machining. Concentricity with offset dowel pins or remachining dowel holes.

To give you an idea, my Ford Racing bellhousing is within .002" in parallelism and just inside .005" cocentricity. I check this everytime I have the engine out of the car prior to fitting the trans as it is really critical with likes of tripple plate clutches.

Hope that helps, Kel.

Makes complete sense... looks like I have a new tool to buy ;) I found a pretty good write-up online as well.

Started learning how to weld... filling up all the holes in the thing. Using a Hobart 187 mig borrowed from a buddy. Hope to have it all ready for powdercoat in the next couple of weeks.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/386826_4085555388469_813197252_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/562915_4085563468671_998314454_n.jpg

Been doing lots of welding getting it ready for powdercoat. Lots of old rivet holes... about 2/3rds done. Plus more parts have come in.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/Welding3.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/Welding4.jpg

Fortes plugs for the speedometer sensors. The driver's side is the mechanical gauge port and the passenger side is for electronic (If you haven't figured it out... not running a speedometer).
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/Trans2.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/Trans1.jpg

Powermaster 1-wire mini racing alternator with mount kit for a Ford 9"... still have to work on pulley alignment.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/Alternator.jpg

Kevko trap-door road race pan
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/Pan1.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/Pan2.jpg

Replaced the LS1 springs with GMPP LS6/2/3 springs and installed Smith Brothers restricted flow pushrods... shiny new stuff...

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/Springs1.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/Springs2.jpg

Looking good! Get those motor mounts yet?

Yup... also ordered some Prothane 4.6 mounts as well. I'll have to move them about 1" forward relative to the "standard" spot they go in on the LS1 block to make it all work using the stock trans mount location. Your chassis has the engine mount pedestals farther back than mine... yours are just behind the lower square tube cross-bar thing vs. ours that come directly up off of it.

Took a break from welding and got a fair amount done on the engine. Time to take a break and tear into the Z06 to replace the cam/lifters in prep for October's VIR event.

Horsefly that flew into one of the oil returns in the head when doing the springs. Found dead on top of the windage tray.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/304307_4128101252089_1750207621_n.jpg

Later LS1 blocks are apparently drilled for LS2 chain dampers. Amazingly the local Chevy dealer had one in stock so I could move forward putting stuff back together.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/400470_4130944683173_299271713_n.jpg

Custom pickup that comes with the new pan hooked up to a LS4 high volume oil pump.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/526336_4132900532068_70520231_n.jpg

Kevko pan installed.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/577103_4132904532168_1224472962_n.jpg

Timing cover and ATI damper hub installed.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/393376_4132911372339_1293043223_n.jpg

Hub pinned.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/185093_4132908652271_774896306_n.jpg

Water pump heater core/pressure tank ports threaded and plugged.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/418948_4141791394334_556838952_n.jpg

Drilled and tapped the Edelbrock valley cover for another crankcase vent port (comes with a boss for doing this). Still have to get a 1/4 NPT to 3/8 hose barb to thread into the elbow.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/399631_4142931502836_347606447_n.jpg

Starting to look like an engine again.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/281872_4142395169428_38195596_n.jpg

Dug into my Z06 to deal with the failed lifters and found out just how much metal went through the motor. Pulled the motor for rebuild and am now back to work on the Panoz.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/644671_4226341828042_1289770974_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/400873_4168448420743_402608915_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/253127_4173045095657_1268445518_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/483161_4218702157055_1868606059_n.jpg

Katech manual tensioner added. Not much to the front end of the motor.... KISS
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/255439_4155201449577_778244242_n.jpg

Coilpacks bolted up and C5 shorty header being test fit.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/282052_4237952518302_1417636072_n.jpg

New 22 gallon ATL cell
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/562000_4242135462873_1435529789_n.jpg

Dug into my Z06 to deal with the failed lifters and found out just how much metal went through the motor. Pulled the motor for rebuild and am now back to work on the Panoz.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/644671_4226341828042_1289770974_n.jpg






Brian, what did the cam lobes look like? Seen lots of LS engines over here with cam/lifter issues where the cam lobe hardening wears off and rapid wear occurs.

I treat lifters and springs as the 2 shortest life components in the engine. Approx 15 - 25 hours for solid roller lifters (25+ if they are pressure oiled roller pin style) and around 10 - 15 hours for valve springs (check these with a Moroso spring tester after race during lashing).

Kel.

Brian, what did the cam lobes look like? Seen lots of LS engines over here with cam/lifter issues where the cam lobe hardening wears off and rapid wear occurs.

I treat lifters and springs as the 2 shortest life components in the engine. Approx 15 - 25 hours for solid roller lifters (25+ if they are pressure oiled roller pin style) and around 10 - 15 hours for valve springs (check these with a Moroso spring tester after race during lashing).

Kel.
The #7 exhaust lobe was chewed up pretty bad, but the intake lobe wasn't bad at all. "Funny" thing is that I had new lifters waiting to go in it this off-season along with another fresh set of springs and another new timing chain. It's a pretty large job (heads have to come off) to swap lifters on a LSX so I didn't do it in 2010 when I initially prepped the car. Engine looked great overall other than the lifter debris going all over. Who knows how many more years I could have gotten out of her.

Cam
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/304299_4168448620748_655940732_n.jpg

Bits of metal fused to the bottom 1/2 of the oil pan
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/248540_4173045415665_1030807087_n.jpg

Nicks on the crank from bits of lifter falling onto it at RPM. Now that I have the engine out and pan off I can see where the bottom of the two rear pisons have nicks in them too.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/431288_4168448020733_289469070_n.jpg

The tedious hole filling and steet metal repair is done. Anything shiny is filled hole. Getting it back to a clean slate before powdercoat.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/3170_4259837585415_1778662496_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/541215_4260748728193_2027274839_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/189244_4259839425461_1395068919_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/304310_4259841465512_411815032_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/399755_4259845545614_467462349_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/249506_4259843105553_231536658_n.jpg

Putting my broken LS6 to good use test fitting the engine/trans.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/35460_4320023970037_989151731_n.jpg

Need to fab mounts. Going make an adapter plate and use a Jeep CJ7 poly mount.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/416861_4320954353296_1934668020_n.jpg
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/ens-2-1102g_w.jpg

Removed the old riveted heat shielding from the trans tunnel and welded all the holes up.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/524997_4325485626575_971733046_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/523027_4325489346668_884811927_n.jpg

Putting my broken LS6 to good use test fitting the engine/trans.


Need to fab mounts. Going make an adapter plate and use a Jeep CJ7 poly mount.



Removed the old riveted heat shielding from the trans tunnel and welded all the holes up.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/523027_4325489346668_884811927_n.jpg

Brian, if you are looking to save weight look, at replacing the tunnel with a folded aluminium one. I am looking at using dzus fasteners to hold the tunnel in place. As discussed if the trans gets stuck between gears with the tunnel dzus'ed in place it is a quick fix. Otherwise its and hour or so minimum.........

Kel.

Brian, if you are looking to save weight look, at replacing the tunnel with a folded aluminium one. I am looking at using dzus fasteners to hold the tunnel in place. As discussed if the trans gets stuck between gears with the tunnel dzus'ed in place it is a quick fix. Otherwise its and hour or so minimum.........

Kel.
Does anyone make the piece in aluminum? I don't have access to the tools needed to fabricate one and don't really want to pay someone local to do it. Not sure what holds your trans tunnel in place now, but this one is just four bolts. There are nut-serts in the chassis. The car won't have anything on the tunnel (no switch panel) so it will just be a matter of removing four bolts to pull it.

Does anyone make the piece in aluminum? I don't have access to the tools needed to fabricate one and don't really want to pay someone local to do it. Not sure what holds your trans tunnel in place now, but this one is just four bolts. There are nut-serts in the chassis. The car won't have anything on the tunnel (no switch panel) so it will just be a matter of removing four blots to pull it.

Not sure if anyone sells them in aluminium. Unlikely. Well if it is already held in by 4 bolts that saves you a job.

Old dash panel full of holes dents removed.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/548097_4270063321052_1873801648_n.jpg

New dash panel installed. Need to grind some of the welds down a bit. Added another piece of angle iron to support the left side.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/598725_4364896531823_1523633123_n.jpg

After much trial and error the engine mounts are done. Used a Prothane poly mount for a Jeep CJ7 and was able to make an adapter plate to use the existing pedestal on the chassis.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/427858_4391950128146_149624276_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/6235_4393497326825_1676765820_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/550644_4393499526880_1959799175_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/431593_4393501166921_2084525504_n.jpg

Engine as far back as it can go. Bellhousing clears nicely.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/16928_4393502606957_1151003436_n.jpg

Shifter lines up in the existing tunnel cover.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/579097_4393504286999_1143162133_n.jpg

Somewhat copied the battery cutoff mount from the Panoz GTS and added the passenger side fire pull.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/395007_4433141557906_1987445832_n.jpg

Driver's side fire pull
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/46249_4433146038018_1857983157_n.jpg

New window net mount tabs for the Joe's Racing mount kit.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/61669_4451141247887_345499830_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/3676_4451142407916_1343323581_n.jpg

Harnessbar fabbed and installed. Thanks to my buddy Mills for the help cutting and welding on this one.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/525544_4453332582669_885349853_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/552379_4453336102757_1753378977_n.jpg

Finally time to head off to powdercoat.

Decided to clean up the passenger side floor before powdercoating. Over the years extra seat mount bars where added haphazardly to fit various seats. Cut them out and filled all the holes leaving the originals.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/378409_4484767088512_1162705992_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/542629_4484765528473_891891807_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/395029_4490150783101_634876986_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/154304_4490150263088_516085970_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/63833_4490150463093_1162598004_n.jpg

Cut out the area where the remote shifter went.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/306082_4490151143110_1700884350_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/526123_4496667506015_2078075452_n.jpg

Stock 40k mile clutch from my old yellow Z06. Have had this thing in my shed for like 7 years. Nothing wrong with it, but was having my rear diff replaced under warranty and took that time to put in a Luk Stage-II clutch with a Fidanza flywheel; driveline has to be removed for both jobs.

After 7 years in a box in my shed.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/64651_4559883326371_885253506_n.jpg

After some elbow grease with a wirewheel and scouring pad.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/381684_4559882526351_46234633_n.jpg

Clutch along with lightweight flywheel. Taking it all to get the flywheel resurfaced and the assembly balanced tomorrow.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/16219_4559883006363_1643930629_n.jpg

Resurfaced light weight chromoly flywheel
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/399265_4587594139124_1553942267_n.jpg

Less than .001" runout on bellhousing face
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/77011_4599982688830_485184947_n.jpg

Max rotational runout of bellhousing center bore vs. crank centerline .003". Max tolerance .005"... good to go!
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/18195_4599983088840_1459743633_n.jpg

Now to install the clutch and mate with the gearbox
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/391984_4600481141291_1577734427_n.jpg

Calipers refreshed and ready for pickup from Hayworth Racing Brakes. Had the old powdercoat stripped off down to the original hard-coat anodizing. Calipers were inspected and rebuilt with new seals and hardware. Fresh decals too.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/375516_4602672796081_1641590430_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/60905_4602672756080_1626867236_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/6627_4602673236092_395394949_n.jpg

Just FYI, I enjoy this thread and watching the progress. FWIW, I think you are doing a top notch, professional job on this car. Even if you did put a damn Chevy motor in it! (lol)

Surface rust was coming back on the clutch so I painted it with 2000 degree rattle-can.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/381995_4614114682121_806261692_n.jpg

Installed with ARP hardware... new engine stand came in handy.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/77010_4614368488466_731007799_n.jpg

Quartermaster throw-out bearing shimmed and installed.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/14592_4626672316054_186080821_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/532534_4626674596111_717443697_n.jpg

Got everything put together... ready to go in the chassis.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/29591_4626678356205_1295467560_n.jpg

Got the hubs/brakes off the rear axle finally.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/533485_4628131872542_1695657977_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/403687_4628132152549_1449933396_n.jpg

Quartermaster throw-out bearing shimmed and installed.



Got everything put together... ready to go in the chassis.


Got the hubs/brakes off the rear axle finally.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/533485_4628131872542_1695657977_n.jpg


Brian, while you have the rear axle out like that have a really good look at your rear brake caliper alignment to the discs. We have suffered a lot of taper wear on the rear pads which is wasting a lot of pad material.

I suspect this is either due to poor alignment or the caliper mounts (ones welded to the diff tubes) are just not stiff enough and are flexing under load.

How have your rear pads been looking wear wise? Even or not? Let me know what you find if you do some checks.

Kel.

Car hasn't had much consistent use in over 2+ years. Ever since the first engine failed summer 2010 the car has been nothing but problems (hence this project). Prior to that we never even changed pads as the car was slow and the PFC97 pads didn't wear at all.

Another member recently posted about one of the rear caliper mounts sheering off going into 10A at Road Atlanta (150 mph downhill braking for a 50 mph chicane)... not a good place to lose the brakes.

I'll check parallelism for sure.

Brian, while you have the rear axle out like that have a really good look at your rear brake caliper alignment to the discs. We have suffered a lot of taper wear on the rear pads which is wasting a lot of pad material.

I suspect this is either due to poor alignment or the caliper mounts (ones welded to the diff tubes) are just not stiff enough and are flexing under load.

How have your rear pads been looking wear wise? Even or not? Let me know what you find if you do some checks.

Kel.

Definitely! They move around a lot and will need constant attention. I shim the calipers differently on each brake change. One day I will gusset the mounts so this stops.