how do i find out what brake drum size do i have 9 or 10?

o reilly has two options. 2002 year

well, the short answer is you pull the drum off and measure. You might also try calling a Ford dealer and with your VIN they may be able to tell you, but I'd still be measuring.

agree, not that hard to take a tape measure...

also, may have the stamping on the drum for maximum diameter allowed when machined...

usually both inches and in mm readings... if they're not rusted away

So i can just measure the Outer Diameter of the drum then eh and that should do it. Because i'd rather not take the drum off unless I have to. Will also look for stamping.

thanks

Drum sizes are generally based on the *internal* diameter of the drum.

why don't you want to remove the drum? Once the wheel is off it's pretty easy and then you can see the shape of the shoes, test how the wheel cylinder is doing/check for leaks, .. to me that's a no brainer.

As Phil says, the 9 or 10 is based on inside diameter and while the max value is stamped into the casting, I've yet to be able to reliably read that number on the drums I've looked at.

I understand why he's wary of pulling the drums: It can be a pain to pull old drums if you aren't familiar with releasing tension using the star adjuster - or you've got rusty/worn hardware. That said, they'll have to be pulled do the job anyway. And once you've overcome any challenges required to remove them once, it will go fast and smooth the next time.

ya, I hear ya on that Phil... tho I must admit that the times I think to myself before doing some mechanical job "oh, I'll only need.." I find out upon starting that I'll also need....

A buddy of mine had a 1996 Jeep laredo. We had to do drums and shoes on his. He called me asking what size drums to buy (he's not a car guy) I ask him to provide the dealer with the vin and then they'll be able to sell him the right drums. Of course he does all this and (go figure) they sell him the 10 inch and he needed the 9.

So, I'm always of the habit now of actually holding onto the piece I need to replace before spending any money...

To the OP, just pull the drum adjuster rubber plug, roll the star wheel to release the shoes and the drums should come off. It might take a bit of work as often there's a rust "ring" that develops, but either way they need to come off.

I wouldn't waste any money or time in turning the drums, it's just not worth it any more with the tight tolerances they put on drums and rotors.

OK, no need to pull your brakes apart!

i went to the website to see what's up

you'll need part # 665, the brake shoes with rivets on them

the other part # 705 is for the minivans with rear disc brakes that have an internal parking brake shoe setup

so you'll have to verify if you have:

rear drum brakes = 665

or rear disc brakes =701

-------------------------

o wait you need a replacement drum:

that # 9570DGS

has specs for you to measure the outside diameter if you're too afraid to take the drum off initially

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BBR0/9570DGS/01269.oap?year=2002&make=Ford&model=Windstar&vi=1385782&ck=Search_C0062_1385782_750&pt=C0062&ppt=C0009

Overall Height: 3.01"
Outside Diameter: 11.58"

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/aim/80011/image/4/

so if i measure the inside diameter of the drum and its 10in its considered 10 inch brakes even tho the actual shoe length is 11.75?

im working on an old chevy k1500 and need new drums , they measure 10in. inside diameter but the shoes measure 11.75 long. when ordering the drums they ask for brake size. 10 or 11. so i need 10inch?

>> so if i measure the inside diameter of the drum and its 10in its considered 10 inch brakes even tho the actual shoe length is 11.75?

Correct. The "size" of a brake drum is based on the *internal diameter* of the drum.

The *length* of the brake shoes isn't directly related to the *diameter* of the drums. Obviously, the curve of the shoe must match up to the inside of the drum - but the length of the shoe reflects how it was designed (i.e., measuring just the length of the shoe doesn't tell you the diameter of the drum).

If you are planning to use after market parts, say AutoZone or such; you could just buy both sizes ... complete with both sets of shoes, hardware, etc ..... and later return the parts not used. I often follow this scheme when not sure.

Also - having done drum brakes a few times:

Take one side apart at a time. It may seem obvious where each spring goes and what direction each part faces - until you have a pile of parts sitting in front of you. Having the other side as reference is very useful.

Also note that many drum brakes have a "leading" shoe and a "trailing" shoe that are slightly different. Carefully inspect your parts - and then do it again - to make sure you're using the correct shoe in each location.

thanks, im ordering from roc auto online so dont want to pay return shipping if they are the wrong size. i always thought the drum diameter determined the brake size but wasnt for sure.

The FIRST drum that comes up in the Rock Auto website list for 2002 Windstar Brake drums gives an outside diameter.....seems to be the part that Ricebike linked from the Oreilly website.

I recommend that you get a "drum brake hardware kit" that gives you all new springs and clips for the parking brake lever connection to the one brake shoe.
They have one for $3.27 on the Rock Auto site.......

Now....on my 1996 Windstar.....one of my rear wheel cylinders developed a leak.....
Age and the fact that the brake job process with have the pistons inside the cylinder moving outside their normal range makes development of a leak possible.....but not something that is real likely.
Mine developed the leak years after I had done the brake job.
So....I wanted to pass this along IF you end up replacing a wheel cylinder (I just did the rear brakes on my 2003 Sienna and replaced the wheel cylinders as a precaution).
IF you replace a wheel cylinder....I can pretty much guarantee that when you go to loosen the brake line connection the WHOLE brake line will want to twist as it will all be rusted together.
I had this issue on my Windstar AND my Sienna.
My solution....
With the drum off......and the brake shoes removed (if you are doing this all at 1 time.....otherwise...you can leave the brake shoes in place.)
FIRST...slightly loosen the nut on the brake line connection to the back side of the wheel cylinder.....you only need to get it to wiggle a VERY little bit.
THEN Remove the small bolts from the back side that hold the wheel cylinder to the backing plate...
NEXT....push/pull the wheel cylinder through so that you can spin the wheel cylinder on the end of the brake line.....
NOW you can just spin the old wheel cylinder off the brake line and spin the new one on....
YOU may have to twist the brake line slightly to get the wheel cylinder at the correct angle to reseat it onto the backing plate to line the bots back up.....if the nut on the end of the brake line has not come free.

Another thing.....which DIFFERS from what I show in my pictures.....
Before I put the hold down springs in place (the small springs that hold the shoes to the backing plate).
I found that putting the big return spring on as I put the BOTTOM of shoes into the BOTTOM clips on the backing plate....then pulling the shoes apart as I line the TOP of the shoes into the grooves in the wheel cylinder......stretching the bottom spring in the process.......
is MUCH easier vs securing the shoes to the backing plate as I show in my pictures and then trying to stretch that bottom "return" spring into the holes in the shoe plates......
Yes...the shoes will want to flop some as you compress and line up the slots on the retaining spring cups.....but you will get it.
There is a tool to help with the lining up of the retaining spring cup slots with the tabs on the pins.....but it is still a bit awkward for those of us who don't do this often....as the pins want to fall back out of the backing plate.....so 1 hand is busy holding the pin from the back while you compress the spring and line up the slot with the tabs....with the other hand.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41574862@N08/8255101237/in/album-72157632198092975/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/41574862@N08/8256172400/in/album-72157632198092975/

NOTE.....your 2002 may vary slightly from my 1996, but the concept is the same.....

I found that getting new adjusters was not necessary....the adjuster spring is in the hardware kit and my old adjusters were just fine.

The spring tools that I found helpful.....
The bottom tool is for the retaining springs....you can see in from the side to line up the slot with the tabs on the pin.
I got mine at Orielly

https://www.flickr.com/photos/41574862@N08/21370371052/in/album-72157632197781661/