86 camaro check engine light flashes

hi i got a 1986 Camaro 5 speed 350 4 barrel carb and the check engine light flashes on and off, when it comes on the engine idles really low and when it goes off it runs normal. I've changed the ignition control module twice already because it wouldn't start. i change the ignition coil because thought that was messing the module up. any idea what problem is? and i hooked a obd ll and 1scanner too the car but wouldn't respond.

hi i got a 1986 Camaro 5 speed 350 4 barrel carb and the check engine light flashes on and off, when it comes on the engine idles really low and when it goes off it runs normal. I've changed the ignition control module twice already because it wouldn't start. i change the ignition coil because thought that was messing the module up. any idea what problem is? and i hooked a obd ll and 1scanner too the car but wouldn't respond.


GM F body camaro with the 4barrel carb was a 305 cu engine.

the IROC did come with the TPI 350cu engine.

to repair these issues you must find out how they hacked this engine into this vehicle with the electrical/emission system to work with the computer/pcm . good luck.

I would try to find a shop that does this type of modification work to get repair solutions.

my guess this is a pre 1982 4 barrel carb 350cu engine and they bypassed the computer system in some way.

what is the vin# 8th digit ? H or G would be the 305cu engine.

The Vin numba is a H. the car is a z28 it had the original 305 engine when we bought it like 10 yrs ago we bought the 350 engine from chevy dealership beacuse the 305 is discontinued the motor seized up or something so we just replaced it. but the car has passed smog. this check engine light thing just started happening now before changing the module it was really really bad but know after changing the module and the ignition coil it still does the chugging and lack of power but not as much. chugging is when the light comes on and when it goes off. its been 3yrs now with the 350 motor

If you have the oe ecu hook ups and sensors, you should be able to get a code from the ecu, jump the a and b terminals in the diagnostic under the dash. The lite will flash, count the flash sequences and post back.

The Vin numba is a H. the car is a z28 it had the original 305 engine when we bought it like 10 yrs ago we bought the 350 engine from chevy dealership beacuse the 305 is discontinued the motor seized up or something so we just replaced it. but the car has passed smog. this check engine light thing just started happening now before changing the module it was really really bad but know after changing the module and the ignition coil it still does the chugging and lack of power but not as much. chugging is when the light comes on and when it goes off. its been 3yrs now with the 350 motor

as mentioned the code retrieval is what is best so try to get something out .

I'm gonna guess that the EGR may be bad. usually these get weak springs as they age and stay open too long /open too soon/too much.

this then causes the intemittent chugging..

remove the EGR and place a plate over the opening with a gasket to seal the two holes ..plug the vac line see if it still chugs..

If the cat converter is getting restricted this increases back pressure then you get too much EGR exhaust gases into the combuston chamber causing this as well.

make sure that the exhaust heat riser is not stuck and it is working or made to stay open all the time.

i did the paper clip test and it went like this engine light flashed one time pause then two times pause then one time pause then two times pause then one time pause then two times pause then it flashed two times pause then one time pause then two times pause then one time pause then two times pause then one time. I'm thinking how ever number of times it flashes befo the pauses that is the first numba then how ever number it flashes after the pause is the second number? so the first number is a 12 and the second is a 21 right?

also the battery doesn't stay charged like when i have the headlights on and the radio i cant go over a certain volume or the radio will turn off. and when i have the fog lights on with the headlights the radio sometimes doesn't even come on i have to turn off the fog lights. also if i don't start the car for two days the battery is sometimes dead or has a slow start like the belts are barely moving i have been thru 5 new batteries and two alternators so i have to start the car up every day. could this be a wire thing or sensors?

code 12 is no tach signal . with the engine off this is normal. code 21 is the throttle position switch open/ shorted so check the wires to the carb.

hook up a vacuum guage to the intake manifold. at idle the vac should be 17-21 inches. place a long vac line on the guage and place in the vehicle go for a drive and monitor the vac operation . then post what you saw.

this is most times a fuseable link going bad. these are wire fuses in the loom engine/starter wiring harness. when these go they slowly increase in resistance then you get a power/voltage drop to the operating elkectrical devices. if the voltage to the computer /distributor is not the full 12volts when running you will get a poor spark and loss of power. also a very poor burn/MPG.

would i be able to change these fusable links?

would i be able to change these fusable links?

Sure , you cut them out . solder in new , place heat shrink tubing over these and the solder joints . now you have a sealed link. the wire size determinines what link you buy.

can i adjust the tps or get a voltage reading from a multimeter? how would i change the TPS its in the carburetor?

can i adjust the tps or get a voltage reading from a multimeter? how would i change the TPS its in the carburetor?

NO ADJUSTMENTS UNTIL THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM IS CORRECTED.

This is an old long past problem even the pro's do. make carb adjustments when the engine has electrical or vacuum issues. not good repair technic.

can i adjust the tps or get a voltage reading from a multimeter? how would i change the TPS its in the carburetor?

I gave some ideas troubleshooting for you to check out so far no data from you . you have no tools ?

mybad the car got broken into and the took radio and smashed the window so car is parked in garage its been raining a lot so haven't been driving it. so far I've got a code 21

so for the fusable links do i follow the wires that are connected to the battery terminals or are they all over the place? for the black terminal theirs two i think ground wires and for the red terminal theirs one for starter and one going to the computer right?

Fusible links come off the main feed from the starter harness at the starter.

i see two by the starter and one is right by the red terminal its says 20 on it and a wire from back of the alternator is connected to it and right next to it is one wire coming from i think the computer can this one be failing?. when i disconnect the one wire coming from the computer when the car is running the idl drops really low. ok so where can i buy these links at because auto zone doesn't have the same one they have other ones where a fuse plugs in well that's what the guy said