2004 Classic 2.2 Ecotech

My normally relable 2004 Classic failed to start today. It fired for a half second and then would not re-start...it cranked just great but did not fire.

I had to run to work in another car and haven't checked anything.

I realize that I need gas, spark and compression.

I thought that 1st I would put a pressure guage on the fuel rail and make sure that I have proper fuel pressure. With this type of engine I can't pull spark plug wires to check for spark.

So can I pull the entire top piece that has all four of the coils, lay it on it's side with spark plugs in it...crank it and and observe that I have spark?

I have a compression checker and I can remove the plugs and crank it to verify that I have compression

Any ideas or cautions please advise.

Thanks

Spit

I just did a quick check .. and I have fuel pressure 50lbs or so.. I flipped the ignition module unit over but did not ground it and I did not seem to have any spark. I also removed all 4 plugs and I hooked up an compression checker...not sure how well I had it screwed in etc. but I did get at least 120 lbs. on the 2 cylinders that I did check I'm not sure if I cranked the engine long enough to get a full compression reading...How long would yu say is enough? I could see the gauge though the windshield. jumping 30 or so lbs a pop. ation?

As far as the ignition check goes...it seemed like the plugs wanted to side out of the boots on the ignition unit. The plugs never seemed to snap in like they would with a normal spark plug wire.. Is this normal? or should they snap in? I pushed 'em down pretty good but they would creep back out. I can see where the bolts that hold the igniton unit in place would probably maintain good contact when it's in place even with out some sort of a snap. This no-snap thew me off a little what do you think.

The plugs looked to be in good shape. a little worn..but not oil fouled etc So I am assuming that the rings valeve seals etc. part of compression is good? I have more experience with small engines (like lawn mowers snow throwers etc.)
I didn't think that the plugs were very wet with un-ignited gasoline..might there be something causing the fuel injectors not to open?

I will take a more thorough look at it this evening..so let me know If you have any ideas as to what and how I should check.

Would the crankshaft positon sensor cut out the power to the coil..or to the injectors or both?

Thanks

Spit

Found my problem...PASSLOCK anti theft system. My understanding is that if the car decides that you have tryed to start the car without the actual key, It shuts off the power to the injectors...no gas no go!

I would strongly suggest to anyone having no start issue..that you reset your PASSLOCK as follows: Turn the key to the ON position let the anti theft light flash it will for aprox. 10 minutes or so...and when the light stops flashing/shuts itself off, turn the ignition off and then try to start your car. Mine started like a champ.

They funny thing is that my Anti Theft light did flash on ramdomly a few times over the past 2-3 weeks. It normally only comes on for 5 seconds when starting and then shuts off. Seems like it happend shortly after a cold start, then driving and hitting a bump... the light came on and stayed on...if I shut the car off and re-started, the car re-started fine and the light went off and stayed off.

Now the question is...is it a worn key or a bad lock cylinder or any otherpart?

I did switch over to the spare key the one that I have never used. So I guess I will find out if it's more than the key.

Spit

Check out this thread. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=454520

It's back!!!

The Theft System light came on today after a few minutes of driving, it stayed on car kept running, When I shut if off and restarted, It did re-start without any issue and the light went out. But it looks like it is a bad lock cylinder, I think that I am going to have to either replace the cylinder or cut the wire and bypass with a resistor.

A couple of questions: Is there anything on the existing cylinder that I can try...cleaning with a contact cleaner, tighening attmepting to resecurting the the plastic terminal box on the cylinder etc. There must be a common failure point? Has anyone had any success with repairing their existing cylinder?

Anybody out there have any experience with this? Would you go with the $150 part or the disabling of the system with the resistors? It's a little un-settling for me to start cutting wires...I want to be sure I know for sure what to do.

Any advice appreciated

Spit




Spit

It's not the cylinder that's the problem, it's the PassLock module that the cylinder slides into......usually sets a B2958 or B2960 code....

Okay..now I am a little more confused. On my 2004 there is a small plastic terminal block mounted onto the lock cylinder. (it comes attached permanently to the lock cylinder) A three wire lead plugs into that plastic block. I was under the impression that the problem was in that terminal block attached to the lock cylinder that whatever is in that termianal block is what reads the key. Is this correct?

Spit

Okay..now I am a little more confused. On my 2004 there is a small plastic terminal block mounted onto the lock cylinder. (it comes attached permanently to the lock cylinder) A three wire lead plugs into that plastic block. I was under the impression that the problem was in that terminal block attached to the lock cylinder that whatever is in that termianal block is what reads the key. Is this correct?

Spit

Yes, the easiest and most perminate way to bypass that is to get a resistor (somewhere around 500-2500ohms works best) Cut the yellow wire. Connect one end of the resistor to the end of the yellow wire going AWAY from the switch. Connect the other end of resistor to the black ground reference wire. Then, take a jumper wire from the ground reference wire and the other end to chassis ground. Try to start the car. It shouldn't and the theft light should flash. Leave ignition on for 10 minutes or until that light stops flashing. Turn car off and count to 3. Try to start. Normally it will but if not, do the 10 min. trick again. It can take up to 3 attempts. If after 3 attempts it doesn't work, change resistance value and do it again.

My normally relable 2004 Classic failed to start today. It fired for a half second and then would not re-start...it cranked just great but did not fire.

I had to run to work in another car and haven't checked anything.

I realize that I need gas, spark and compression.

I thought that 1st I would put a pressure guage on the fuel rail and make sure that I have proper fuel pressure. With this type of engine I can't pull spark plug wires to check for spark.

So can I pull the entire top piece that has all four of the coils, lay it on it's side with spark plugs in it...crank it and and observe that I have spark?

I have a compression checker and I can remove the plugs and crank it to verify that I have compression

Any ideas or cautions please advise.

Thanks

Spitpass lock