Ok, here is my situation. I have a 98 Caravan that has the cluster problem (I think that is what it is) where the guages quit working and you bang on the dash and they start working again. It has been like this for at least 6 months. well today, one bang wouldn't do it. I banged and I banged and evidently broke off my speedometer which is now laying at the bottom of my panel. Can I buy a panel from the junkyard and plug everything back in?

Yes you can but are you sure it didn't just fall off? I've read you can just push the needle back on if that's the case. You'll have to download this slide show (PDF file) but it shows how to remove the cluster and disassemble it to make the solder repair.

http://www.4shared.com/document/ymiABlDR/98TC_dash_solder_repair.html

Thank you for the link. I will try this tomorrow. The speedomoter may have fallen off, I didn't think that was an option.

Also, I did not see how to do the soldering, just the dis-assembly. Did I miss something or do I have to look it up?

Also, I did not see how to do the soldering, just the dis-assembly. Did I miss something or do I have to look it up?

Yup you missed it. Scroll towards the end. Soldering starts at step/picture #14 through #16. If you have more soldering questions I'd be happy to help.

The one you sent to me stops at step 6 figure 9. Is this on youtube?

The one you sent to me stops at step 6 figure 9. Is this on youtube?


Odd. I just downloaded the file using the link posted. Worked fine. There's 17 steps and 19 pics. Try downloading again, in the mean time I'll see if I can find it somewhere else. YouTube? No. 4shared.

This set of Instructions (http://www.flickr.com/photos/landar/sets/72157617315319764/) worked perfectly for me! Used on 4 different vans.

giving you guys an update. I have the dash apart (the whole file was visible this time). I have no idea how to solder or what material to use so I have a guy that is supposed to do it later today. I will let you know when I get done if it solves the problem. Am I just concentrating on the things behind the red plug?

Yes, around 20 points at the red plug connection to the board. Inspect with a maginifier. Look for cracks, dull colored cold solder joints etc. Reflow all 20 no matter how they look. Some cracks can be practically invisible. Reflow means to just touch each point with the soldering iron until the solder melts then remove the iron. Add new solder if there are gaps in the solder around the contact.

Ok, first I want to thank you for all the help. It was not as difficult as I thought and following the diagrams was very easy. I had a buddy do the soldering, but even that did not look difficult. I put everything back together and have one problem. I had told you that my speedometer had fallen off, I put it on and I must have done it wrong because it does not even start working until you are going about 20 (so it is about 20 mph off to the low side). Is there an easy fix for this?

Did you do the panel reset step that was listed in the link that I provided?

With the ignition key in the on position, press and hold the "trip" and "reset" buttons until the gauges start their self test sequence.

If this doesn't work, sounds like you'll need to take it back out and spin the needle a couple of notches to the left.

When I banged on one of mine hard enough to knock the needle off, that van had the kindness to shred it's tranny the same week, so I never had to fix it.

Ok, I tried that and it did not work. I can tear the thing back apart and put it back toether fairly easily now, my problem is that I put the speedometer back on wrong once already. I don't want to do it all again only to have it off still. I need to find a way to make sure I get it on the right speed so I can sell it.
Any ideas if there is a certain way or technique to put it on correctly?

If you can get the test to work you can adjust the needle and see what it does on the test. On my 96 to get it to start I have to depress both buttons THEN turn the key to on. Within 5 seconds the PRNDL display goes blank and the ODO displays "code". When you see that let go of the buttons. The gauges will start to cycle in another 3-4 seconds.

Here's what it should look like: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sD--eo1ERs

The test worked fine, but the speed is still off. When I put the speedometer back on, I put it so it was laying right on the knob that keeps it from going down to far. I don't think there are grooves in the thing that holds the speedometer. I don't think I need a new cluster, just to figure out how to get this adjusted.

Gauges can be adjusted with a DRB3.

Ok, I fixed it an I will take through my train of thought. First I started wondering if the speedometer had an absolute zero to where is wouldn't go any lower. I pulled it all apart again. I took the screws out that hold the clear cover and removed the cover. I set the cluster in the upright position so that the tach and fuel gauges would come to rest on there respective pegs. I pulled the speedometer off and put it back on at about 30 mph and let it bleed down. I removed it again and put it at about 30 again. It bled down again. I did it one more time and realized that it will keep bleeding down. So then I decided to put it back in my dash without the cover one and drive it (not that hard, you do not have to re hook up the 3 plug harnesses on the bottom left). When I started the vehicle the tach went to the rpm the gas guage went up to the fuel amount and although I was not moving, my speedometer was at about 35. I pulled it off and quickly put it back on at zero. I took it for a drive and if it is not right, it is within 5 (another note, I should have waited and drove behind another car to calibrate it better but I didn't want to wait). I went back home pulled it apart and put the cover back on the cluster and put everything back together. Case closed. I hope this helps someone else, this site has always been very helpful to me.
Thank you
Neil