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DCCV replaced still no heat


mvansant
01-19-2012, 11:36 AM
Any ideas where to look now?

joegr
01-19-2012, 01:14 PM
Usually, the cause of no heat at all is trapped air in the cooling system.

Did you bleed the cooling system by the book after DCCV replacement?

Have you verified that you have no leaks and that the cooling system fully pressurizes when the engine warms up?

Are you having any engine overheating? What does the temperature gauge read after you've driven a few miles?

mvansant
01-19-2012, 05:28 PM
Usually, the cause of no heat at all is trapped air in the cooling system.

Did you bleed the cooling system by the book after DCCV replacement?

Have you verified that you have no leaks and that the cooling system fully pressurizes when the engine warms up?

Are you having any engine overheating? What does the temperature gauge read after you've driven a few miles?

My mechanic did all of the work. He did not check the cooling system. it is not over heating and the gauge shows normal engine temp.

joegr
01-19-2012, 06:19 PM
Did you just buy the car with the heat not working, or was it working before and stopped?

If it never worked since you bought it, it might be that the previous owner blocked the lines to the heater cores instead of fixing a failed DCCV. I know of at least one case where this happened. The new owner (after trying everything else) found little wooded plugs inside the heater hoses.

You might disconnect the three heater hoses, and use a funnel and bucket of water to pour water in each of the supply hoses and see if it comes back out the return hose freely. If it doesn't, then either the hoses or the cores or blocked. (I haven't heard of any LS heater cores being blocked.)

joegr
01-19-2012, 06:20 PM
My mechanic did all of the work. He did not check the cooling system. it is not over heating and the gauge shows normal engine temp.

If he didn't bleed it by the correct factory procedure, then that's your problem.


I guess the $100 dealer diagnostic charge would have been worth it. It might still be.

mvansant
01-22-2012, 08:07 AM
I did see him bleeding the lines so I am pretty sure he did all of this. Looking at the Aux Pump Now. This has been a nitemare.

2005_lincoln_ls
04-19-2012, 12:53 AM
simliar issues here.... except no cold air. got the 27 98 code so i replaced the dccv.. worked one day.. then no air... 2798 code again... any suggestions.... is the harness possibly bad to the dccv..all fuses looked good..... is there something i might have overlooked? thanks

shorod
04-19-2012, 06:44 AM
That code is for a driver's DCCV circuit short to ground. Have you checked the wiring for a short to ground? Do the driver's side and passenger side both operate the same (no cold air)?

-Rod

2005_lincoln_ls
04-19-2012, 09:24 PM
both sides full on heat... as far as the wiring goes.. how far back from the dccv do i have to check... all the seems easily accessible is the connection right on the dccv and then the one about 12 inches back close to top of radiator? ALSO did the self diagnostic with the engine running where before i alway did it with just the key in ON position... forgot the code number but was air inlet actuator when i looked up.. wasnt the 12 65 one that is to be ignored.... thanks again

shorod
04-19-2012, 10:35 PM
You can check right at the DCCV, unplug the DCCV and check the leads to the DCCV for a short to ground.

-Rod

joegr
04-20-2012, 08:25 AM
Here's some tests for the wiring and DATC module. Start at H8.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm#PS2-H

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