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AC bracket in the way of intake mainfold


houndog3
01-08-2012, 09:33 AM
Im doing the intake gasket replacement. how do work around the AC bracket!! do i need to remove the power steering pully to loosin the ac bracket!! i hope not i dont have that special puller to pull the power steering pully1!!! any suggerstion would be great!!! oh its a 1997 5.7l 1/2 ton 4x4 if it matters...

tempfixit
01-08-2012, 12:51 PM
Im doing the intake gasket replacement. how do work around the AC bracket!! do i need to remove the power steering pully to loosin the ac bracket!! i hope not i dont have that special puller to pull the power steering pully1!!! any suggerstion would be great!!! oh its a 1997 5.7l 1/2 ton 4x4 if it matters...

Here is a thread on the procedure:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=338753&page=2

Go to post # 22, step # 8. It has been a # of years since I did the job but you have to get at the 2 bolts that are underneath from the bottom of vehicle.

ANother link with procedure and pics: Go to Repair steps for pics.

http://www.market-place.com/intake/intake.htm

Hope this helps



1- Disconnect Neg. Batt. Terminal and (flush) drain coolant
2- Remove air inlet tube and vortec cover
3- Remove the ac comp. and swing it over to the other side, keep hoses in tact.
4- Disconnect and LABEL all electrical plug-ins connected to the manifold, also undo the plug to the Alt., Crank Pos. censor, and P. Steering (goes down the front and underneath.)
5- Pull wire-loom up and out of the way and tie it back with a bungee cord or similar.
6- There is a bracket on the pass. Side rear that needs to come off too. I cut mine in half and only removed the top portion. (the back bolt is hard to get to).
7- Disconnect upper rad. Hose, heater hoses, throttle cables, pvc devices, ign. coil, egr hose, and anything else connected to the manifold, that wont come off with it. You DO NOT need to remove the upper half of the manifold from the lower!!!
8- Remove the A/C bracket and P/S pump as a UNIT and set aside. There are 4 bolts in the front, and 2 underneath. You DO NOT need to pull the p/s pulley off!!! You do not need to remove the alternator either.
9- Disconnect the spark plug wires from the dist. and remove the dist. cap. It is VERY important that you mark the location of the rotor in relation to the dist. AND the location of the dist. in relation to the intake. If you don’t, you will be putting it on a scanner to set the timing.
10- Carefully remove the distributor. Notice how the rotor turns when you pull it out and remember it’s location so you can get it back in correctly.
11- Relive pressure from the fuel line. Disconnect the fuel lines at the back of the manifold near the trans.
12- Loosen bolts on valve covers, and break seal, do not need to remove them.
13- Unbolt and remove manifold.

Once the manifold is off, clean out the lifter valley and cover it with clean rags to keep gunk out. Remove old gaskets and clean mating surfaces well.

NOW is the BEST time to replace the “quick disconnect nipple” for the heater hose on the manifold, because it will break off, and you will be drilling it out. Unfortunately this is how it is. Carefully drill out what’s left of the nipple and clean out the threads with a tap or whatever you have. DO NOT use an “easy-out” and brute force!!! I cracked the boss doing this (followed by several foul words! :cya: ) and had to get it welded. Get the STEEL replacement from the dealer, and use some Teflon tape when installing.

When you put the gaskets on, use RTV on the valley ends (there is no gasket) and also put some around the coolant ports. Carefully replace the manifold (so you don’t smear RTV all over) and bolt down to specs. (Three stages, 11ft.lbs. is final value) Use some thread sealer or equivalent. Do not over-torque!
Hook everything back up. Replace your cap and rotor, refill coolant, and change the oil.

Remember, yours may be different, and I may have forgotten something (it’s been a week now). But this will guide you in the right direction. GOOD LUCK!

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houndog3
01-08-2012, 01:44 PM
thank you tempfixit!!!!! I only tourque to 11 ft lbs is there a sequence pattern(outside corners to inside for example) i need to follow????

j cAT
01-08-2012, 02:45 PM
thank you tempfixit!!!!! I only tourque to 11 ft lbs is there a sequence pattern(outside corners to inside for example) i need to follow????

when you torque this you start from the middle and alter each side working toward the ends.

If you can do it , use 2 bolts with the heads removed to guide the manifold down exactly to the proper position that way you don't mess up the gasket sealer/rtv.

clean the gasket mating surfaces with a solvent , no oils on the surface.

using a hack saw blade to cut out the heater hose fitting is what I have used . you cut the inside of the fittings where the threads are then using a screw driver in the cut slot force the fitting loose. it should come right out . if not cut a second slot.

as mentioned never use an easy out..

houndog3
01-08-2012, 04:06 PM
pefect!!!! thank you so much!!!!

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