Question about Zero paint application

12-23-2011, 11:02 AM
I know this has probably been asked a number of times but I couldn't find anything. I've read all the comments about Zero paint going on so easy but I'm having a problem and I'm hoping the experts here could help. I used the paint a while back on a 365 GTB and while the color was excellent I could never get the finish smooth. It went on with a bit of orange peel. I did polish most of it out before clear coating but it was never what I wanted. Now I'm working on a Lotus 79 and I just did some tests and I've got a real texture, almost like the plastic reacted to the paint. I had put on a nice even primer coat using Tamiya Fine. I sprayed from about 4-6 inches and did one section at around 15 psi and one around 22 psi. They look identical.

So what is a good pressure to use, I've got a Paasche double action, and how far away do you shoot? I know I can go on this way and polish it out but of course to much polishing and I burn through.

Any help would be appreciated.

12-23-2011, 11:30 AM
Hi did you sand the primer coat at all before spraying the Zero colour?


12-23-2011, 12:02 PM
Is there a chance that the paint was not thinned properly? I know it says "pre-thinned" but sometimes it is not thinned enough. Try thinning it a bit more and see if that chances anything. Also, if your airbrush allows this - try bigger nozzle. Sometimes fine nozzles tend to spray finer mist, and paint evaporates solvent rather fast before hitting hte surface, which results in "bumpy" finish.

12-23-2011, 10:23 PM
The piece I am testing on was not sanded prior to color. It was the Tamiya Fine White and was the usual smoothness of that. The pieces that will be painted for real have been primed and sanded up to 3600 a number of times.

I'm already using a No 5 nozzle on the Paasche and this is the largest they have. I can't see how the paint could be much thinner. It's like water now.

Tomorrow I will try around 35 psi and see how that goes.

The Sheene Machine
12-24-2011, 03:32 AM
Well I'm no expert but, I'd say 15 psi is too low. I shoot all my Zero stuff at 25 psi, at a distance of 5-6 inches normally straight from the jar after a good shake. I use an Iwata Revolution, 0.5mm needle. Don't forget the zero paints do dry with some texture as they dont have any gloss in them. They are not formualted to be polished before clearing. Some of my paint jobs have had some texture in them, but this diappears after clearcoat. There is a good 'how to' on the Hiroboy website.

12-24-2011, 03:38 PM
You won't get a glass smooth finish on the Zero base coats straight from the airbrush, no matter how much you thin them and with what pressure you spray them. They are designed to be clear coated and that is what creates the shine and depth of gloss. As already stated by Paul you shouldn't sand or polish them at all before application of the clear coat as this is not how they are designed to be used. Just spray on a uniform colour coat and make sure it is evenly applied and that is basically all that is needed. Allow to dry for 20-30 minutes and then shoot the clear. Only exception to that rule is with the metallic shades which I leave overnight to dry so that you don't get any colour shift or pooling of the flakes where the clear lifts them off. I would definitely try a higher pressure 35-40 psi is what I spray them at with my Tamiya HG Wide 0.5mm and that works well..

12-25-2011, 10:49 AM
Now I'm working on a Lotus 79 and I just did some tests and I've got a real texture, almost like the plastic reacted to the paint.
Well, one of the problems with Zero is that in fact sometimes the plastic DOES react with the paint. It seems to depend on the plastic and the colour, as I had this with the recent Fujimi and Hasegawa kits, but not with the Tamiyas, and IIRC only with black and blue, not with e.g. the Ferrari or Alfa red. Hasegawa Lotus 79 + Zero black was the first time, this happened to me...
You can use the Zero paint sealer under the primer as this protects the plastic. If it has already happened, sand it smooth, another coat of primer and then again the colour - if it has reacted once I never had it happen a 2nd time.

01-06-2012, 11:30 AM
Sorry I din't get back sooner with the result but I had a little incident with a mandolin while slicing potatoes Christmas morning and well...I've been out of modeling for a bit.

I did finish my tests and in the end it was my technique that was causing the problem. I had read the cautions about wet coats in the directions but really didn't pay any attention. My last test I made sure to hold the airbrush at least 8-10 inches from the surface and shooting @ 35psi with light, fog coats I got a good application. Plan on shooting the real thing this weekend.

Wierd that the paing would react like it did just because of wet coat but that was it.

01-08-2012, 04:47 AM
You just need a nice and even cover coat when you apply the colour. No need to go mad with the smoothness of the paint or polish it etc, that is not necessary at all. Just a nice even cover coat applied nice and light and all over the surface is all that's needed. The clear coat will give you the smoothness, depth and gloss you desire. Post up your results..

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