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Help with 2 Pack please


darcyrossi46
11-17-2011, 10:40 AM
oops forgot the pics!!:screwy:

I just clearcoated my MP4/6 1/12th scale with Zero Paints 2 Pack.

Its my first time with 2 Pack and i have areas that have these small indents in them. I have showed the worst area in the picture.:crying:

Does anyone know what causes this and how i should remove them?

I am using an iwata I Line TH airbrush (the one that gives a fan pattern) with the pressure set at 60.

SilverMk2
11-17-2011, 10:45 AM
Looks like small fisheyes. Usually these are cause by oil or grease on the surface or from the air supply. Not much you can do but repaint. Your air pressure sounds awful high for an airbrush as well. HTH

stevenoble
11-17-2011, 11:38 AM
Definitely some form of contamination, oil or grease etc. Leave it now and let the clear dry till tomorrow. Then you need to sand out the indents with very fine wet and dry used wet, 1500 grit even 2000 if you have some. Be very careful and only sand the imperfections from the clear coat, don't cut through into the paint. Then clean the whole part with hot soapy water and a few drops of washing up liquid added, rinse well with clean water and allow it to thoroughly air dry, don't rub it or use a hair dryer etc. If you can get some panel wipe, which is like a spirit based wipe that all car body shops use then clean the area to be painted with this as well as a precaution. Then you can repaint the clear and all should be well. Also make sure you check that no contamination is present on your mixing equipment that you use to mix the clear, and also on your airbrush internals. If in doubt use a brand new mixing cup for the clear and flush your airbrush with fresh Zero thinner or equivelant to make sure it is clean. Let us know how you get on..? Also check the air supply to make sure no contamination is coming from there and lower the air pressure. I use between 30-35 psi to clear, but you may get away with a lot less depending on your airbrush, so experiment with that, but 60psi is definitely too high..

darcyrossi46
11-17-2011, 11:42 AM
Do you guys always wash after you have put the basecoat colour on?

stevenoble
11-17-2011, 11:44 AM
Do you guys always wash after you have put the basecoat colour on?

No need to wash with soapy water or sand the basecoat unless you have contamination present. I just use the panel wipe and a tack cloth before the clear is sprayed, more as a safety measure than anything else..

darcyrossi46
11-17-2011, 11:57 AM
cant understand how it would get that contaminated I only put the white on yesterday and the red today. Would masking tape cause it if i didnt clean it afterwards?

gionc
11-17-2011, 12:47 PM
This kind hi-solid 2K it is very sensitive to sylicones: I underline VERY sensitive.

It would feel sylicones contamination also trough layer *: only thing that would stop and seal any contamination is... itself.....

So: guidelines:

-1: you MUST keep any tool used to mix the clear (bottle, spoons, any metal part) clean and wash with hard solvent (toluene, we call it nitro)

-2: you MUST wash the model, obviously you can't with toluene, with dish soap, a wash with vinegar and distilled water help even better

-3: start with a light mistcoat: this woul seal anything below, let it dry a bit , and do the job than.

-4: pay attention to the thinner ratio: I know the paint is thik and would be sprayed better with a 0.5 mm airbrush, you'll add a bit more kat and a bit less thinner

-5: I don't know which is the thinner kind Steve sell in the pak kit: on the original brand he rebottle there are several thinners: best results with the better thinner (acrifan thinner, much less craters).

Sometimes in fact those craters are due to the thinner that try to evaporate trough the coat....

So: making the thing short the factors are two: contaminations and thinner, any other factor (pressure-can't be much low since the paint is thick even with much dangerous thinner- or airbrush kind) are the same for any other acryl paint ;)

Last: you need practice, patience, luck... I felt myself so bad at first attempts...

Last/last: you have to set up the spray-zone very verrrrry clean, free of dust, and spry at decent temp/humidity ;)

Last/last/verry last: you're lucky: you have now sealed any crap under the K: just sand down paying attention to leave enough K film and shot one last thin hand: believe me you wouldn't meet trouble, I NEVER got a first perfect hand, but much perfect finished jobs ;)

*: in my F575 evo II I done a superb paintjob with no faults until the clearcoats: perfect, than the clear showed me a lot of fingerprints and other crap.... all signs or release agents.... they went noticeable trough 2K primers and lot of coats.... after just a sand hand and other clear I got a good result ;), the clear seal itself ;)

stevenoble
11-17-2011, 03:26 PM
cant understand how it would get that contaminated I only put the white on yesterday and the red today. Would masking tape cause it if i didnt clean it afterwards?

Residue from the masking tape may have an effect when you apply the clear.

935k3
11-17-2011, 10:14 PM
You could also try a product like the one in the picture below. I have used this and it mixes with any type of paint I ever tried, lacquers, enamels and acrylics. Just add a drop or two per jar. It works very well in my experience. The fisheyes look pretty deep to sand even without going through the paint. Yo could dab a little clear in each hole with a brush, let it dry well an then sand all flush before respraying.
http://www.napaastoria.com/media/00/a207917131f863796b295d_m.jpg

gionc
11-18-2011, 02:50 AM
Yes, I forgot a thing: inside the Lechler product's range you'll find one antisylicones additive , the other good is that it is quite fluid so it will thin another bith the clear without to use much thinner, and would help for craters: I bougth but never tried yet ;)

ales
11-18-2011, 03:13 AM
Yup, contamination, and it can be from the surface of the model, from the air supply, from the cup you mixed the clear in, etc...

Here's one from my personal experience - I've had a lot of issues with similar fisheyes when I first started using 2K clear, and eventually the source of trouble was traced to the medical syringes I'd been using to mix my paints. They seemed like a fantastic idea at the time - easy to keep everything clean, easy to monitor the ratios, etc, but apparently there is something in the syringes that contaminates the paint, and clears were extremely sensitive to contamination.

Good luck!

darcyrossi46
11-28-2011, 10:00 AM
thanks all for the replys.

i sanded the fisheyes out, but did go into the primer in a couple of places. so i gave them a light coat of primer sanded it lightly and then some basecoat.

then gave it a wash let it dry, then anther clearcoat.

NO FISHEYES!!:smokin:

polished a couple of dust particles out and now applying decals.

Then hopefully another succesful clearcoat.

Once again thanks for the advice everyone.

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