rear axle question


norteno
09-24-2011, 02:17 PM
i have a 97 blazer lt with bad rear bearings. trying to replace. I have read much about them and have started to take everything apart. Got drums off, got diff cover off but cant see the cross pin retaining bolt to loosen it to take out cross pin. I can see the cross pin but not the 8mm bolt to loosen it. When I turn axle from the wheel studs, the carrier does not turn around and I cannot turn it by hand. I was thinking the bolt was on opposite side so thats why I was trying to turn it around inside the pumpkin. What did I miss?? I thought I read up enough on it. Any questions. Could my rear end be automatic locking differentail and if so is there a different way to take the axles and bearings and seal out??? thanks anyone.

blazee
09-24-2011, 02:27 PM
You need to put the transmission in neutral for it to turn.

norteno
09-24-2011, 04:12 PM
thanks for answering. I tried that and still not turning. I know it turns because I was driving the truck yesterday and it works. I tried putting it drive too and still nothing. Do you think by raising the front end, putting tranny in drive and turning the front wheekls will work??? I'm gonna try neutral again. thanks man.

goser
09-24-2011, 07:35 PM
If I understand correctly, you need to turn the driveshaft to access the pinion bolt. Turning the wheels will not rotate the carrier. And, as blazee says, you need to be in neutral to be able to rotate the driveshaft.

norteno
09-25-2011, 12:25 AM
I put it into HI 4 (push button) and then was able to rotate carrier by hand. Should I also be able to turn wheel studs/drum and also rotate carrier? I'm not able to. It doesn't turn that way. I can see the spider gears turning but not the carrier. Also found out that I have the G80 diff and there is not as much room to take out things like c-clips. Any easy way to do it? Thanks. I really like this site. I haven't actually tried it yet but I will tomorrow and probably have more questions. Thanks again.

gmtech1
09-25-2011, 09:32 AM
As goser and blazee have already stated. To turn the ring and pinion, you need to turn the prop shaft. If you are going to attempt to replaced the bearings yourself, you'll need to disconect the prop shaft anyway. Be sure to mark it when removing. There are specific tools required to do this job. If not done correctly you may do more harm than good!

norteno
09-26-2011, 12:16 AM
Well I got everything apart OK. Instead of taking the driveshaft off, I used a plastic prybar and leveraged it against the stablizer bar in front of diff and cranked the carrier teeth very carefully around until I was able to see and unscrew 8mm bolt and then cranked carrier around to access opening to slide pinion out. All the time I did this with truck in neutral and in 4H. Pushed in axles, had not too hard a time getting c-clips out. Then took out axles and replaced bearings and seals. I'm gonna try to put everything back together the same way by turning carrier with plastic pry bar to get to openings. I know this is very uncoventional and I was very careful not to damage teeth. The spider gears did not dislodge and I'm not gonna turn anything until I get axles and c-clips and pinion back in. Hope it works. Thanks again and what do you think?

gmtech1
09-26-2011, 07:51 AM
So I guess I misunderstood which bearings you were replacing. Sounds like you just replaced the axle bearings and not the carrier and pinion bearings? These are usually the bearings that get noisy, not to say your axle bearings were'nt noisy.

Anyway, good luck and I hope it works out ok!

norteno
09-26-2011, 10:50 PM
sorry for not being clear. I appreciate the help. How much play should rear wheels have when jacked up off the ground? The driver's side had a lot of play in and out when gripped side to side and less play top to bottom in and out. There was also a ton of grease all over brakes, drum and in side of wheel. I know it needed seals. I bought the thing for $800 from neighbor and already replaced inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, control arm and haven't even tuned it up yet. What's the word on 97 blazers, are they dependable? What usually goes out? It has 136,000 miles and engine runs real decent. It's an LT. Thanks again!

chcknugget
09-28-2011, 10:41 AM
There shouldn't be any play, you'll have to replace the bearings, seals, axle shafts... You might be better off looking for a junkyard differential- though a replacement g80 for a blazer is going to be hard to find... I gave up rebuilding rear diffs because the inner axle bearing aren't easy to replace but go bad too. I'm on my third rear end in 213k miles lol.

norteno
10-02-2011, 11:09 AM
I finally got everytning installed and put back together. New bearings and seals, good used axles on both sides, fluid and gasket. No leaks. Drives good but still have some left to right movement when grabbing wheel at 3 and 9 oclock. alot less than before but still noticable. the other side (passenger) is tight. Now what could this be?? Thanks again dudes!!

norteno
11-06-2011, 12:28 AM
It was in and out movement, not left and right I guess and I hear this is normal due to C-clip setup.I also replaced u-joint and burned the nylon seals out until it flowed out of the four small holes. So now my question is "Do those holes need to filled in with anything to prevent water getting into the joint?? And if so, what do I fill them with? Thanks again!!

gmtech1
11-06-2011, 09:24 AM
No, you don't "need" to put anything in the holes,but I suppose you could put some sealer over them if you wanted to. I just leave 'em.

norteno
11-06-2011, 11:15 AM
Thanks! I think I will smear some RTV silicone over them with my finger but glad I don't have to take the whole thing apart again. I also put in some rear shocks and cleaned the throttle body and it's starting to run real decent now thanks to this site.

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