Need help with 03 TB/LT/EXT Front axle/diff
barker23
08-17-2011, 01:22 AM
Been hearing noise from front end, finally today pulled off passenger tire and noticed where the axle goes into pan, it was all shinny, so I reached in and the axle shaft can be moved around alot.
I do most of my own mechanical work, but have never worked on a 4x4 with this type of differential. Is it bearings, seals bad? Can anyone tell me what it takes to fix this?
Thanks
I do most of my own mechanical work, but have never worked on a 4x4 with this type of differential. Is it bearings, seals bad? Can anyone tell me what it takes to fix this?
Thanks
Schurkey
08-17-2011, 07:57 AM
Been hearing noise from front end, finally today pulled off passenger tire and noticed where the axle goes into pan, it was all shinny, so I reached in and the axle shaft can be moved around alot.
I do most of my own mechanical work, but have never worked on a 4x4 with this type of differential. Is it bearings, seals bad? Can anyone tell me what it takes to fix this?
Thanks
From another thread:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1069075
If it's a 4X4, you can pretty much expect to have to replace/rebuild the actuator bolted to the side of the engine oil pan.
The gears and bearings inside are a known trouble spot. Initial symptoms are whine/growl especially when in 4 wheel drive; sometimes with much reduced whine/growl when in Automatic 4 wheel drive but not completely engaged.
The typical "fix" is to buy a rebuilt unit, and simply switch the defective one for the rebuilt one. I think the replacement cost me about $425 two years ago; and I installed it myself. Prying the old one out of the oil pan is the worst part of the job. It's a loose "press fit", but the two aluminum parts corrode together and become a bitch to separate.
I do most of my own mechanical work, but have never worked on a 4x4 with this type of differential. Is it bearings, seals bad? Can anyone tell me what it takes to fix this?
Thanks
From another thread:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1069075
If it's a 4X4, you can pretty much expect to have to replace/rebuild the actuator bolted to the side of the engine oil pan.
The gears and bearings inside are a known trouble spot. Initial symptoms are whine/growl especially when in 4 wheel drive; sometimes with much reduced whine/growl when in Automatic 4 wheel drive but not completely engaged.
The typical "fix" is to buy a rebuilt unit, and simply switch the defective one for the rebuilt one. I think the replacement cost me about $425 two years ago; and I installed it myself. Prying the old one out of the oil pan is the worst part of the job. It's a loose "press fit", but the two aluminum parts corrode together and become a bitch to separate.
barker23
08-17-2011, 09:38 AM
Schurkey,
Does the actuator have anything to do with the axle moving around? Or will it need rebuilt along with replacing the axle bearings and seals in the pan?
Im not sure what the actuator does. I know the 4 wheel drive will kick in and works.
Does the actuator have anything to do with the axle moving around? Or will it need rebuilt along with replacing the axle bearings and seals in the pan?
Im not sure what the actuator does. I know the 4 wheel drive will kick in and works.
Schurkey
08-17-2011, 03:45 PM
Schurkey,
Does the actuator have anything to do with the axle moving around?
Likely.
Or will it need rebuilt along with replacing the axle bearings and seals in the pan?
There are no bearings and seals in the pan. There is a "gearbox" that bolts TO the pan on the passenger side. That's the weak spot. When I replaced mine, I tore the old one apart. There was a "gear" that had a machined bearing surface on it, and the bearing surface was torn up along with the bearing being defective. The axle shaft itself was/is fine.
Im not sure what the actuator does. I know the 4 wheel drive will kick in and works.
The actuator connects the axle shaft to the front differential. If it stayed engaged, the front wheels would drive the differential, if it failed to engage the differential could not drive the front wheels.
Between that actuator and the clutch in the transfer case, the 4WD can be on, off, or "ready" to be engaged automatically if needed.
Does the actuator have anything to do with the axle moving around?
Likely.
Or will it need rebuilt along with replacing the axle bearings and seals in the pan?
There are no bearings and seals in the pan. There is a "gearbox" that bolts TO the pan on the passenger side. That's the weak spot. When I replaced mine, I tore the old one apart. There was a "gear" that had a machined bearing surface on it, and the bearing surface was torn up along with the bearing being defective. The axle shaft itself was/is fine.
Im not sure what the actuator does. I know the 4 wheel drive will kick in and works.
The actuator connects the axle shaft to the front differential. If it stayed engaged, the front wheels would drive the differential, if it failed to engage the differential could not drive the front wheels.
Between that actuator and the clutch in the transfer case, the 4WD can be on, off, or "ready" to be engaged automatically if needed.
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