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noisy front suspension


tkswan
08-15-2011, 11:12 PM
2002 lsv8 145k [ish] miles.
my front suspension sounds like balloons rubbing together. when the car is cold there is no noise. once i run it and things heat up, the suspension gets really noisy. when i get to a stop, i can turn the wheel back and forth (from 10 o clock to 2 o clock) and the balloon noise is loud. when i hit the brakes -- rolling to a stop, pumping the brakes (making the front end dip), the front end makes the balloon sound, every pump makes the sound when it dips down. I took it in to get a tech to ride with me and listen but the little time it sat waiting made the noise stop...so its only happening during operating temps. I have new end links on it.

shorod
08-16-2011, 09:15 AM
That's actually a pretty common sound for Ford products of the late '90s and in to the '00s. The problem seems to be that either/both the outer tie rod ends or/and the ball joints get dry. Since these are maintenance free items, there is no easy way to keep them lubricated and once the grease dries out, they creak. What I've done to identify the offending joint is to use a needle grease gun fitting and insert grease in to one joint at a time. Take the car for a spin around the block and see if the noise changed or went away. If not, I move to another joint and do the same. Once I find the culprit, I add that to my "to be replaced" list as the grease is probably just a temporary fix.

If you do not have or do not want to buy the grease gun needle fitting, you can also use a can of spray lithium grease and a pick. Poke a small hole in the joint boot with the pick, then insert the tube of the spray grease in through the hole. Give it a quick squirt. The benefit of this is the spray will penetrate the joint quicker an probably allow you to find the noisy joint just by bouncing the car a few times, no need to drive around the block.

-Rod

tkswan
08-16-2011, 09:28 AM
Excellent. I was going to start pricing new ball joints and other suspension parts. I still need to clear up the knocking sound. I replaced the end links and it quieted down a little but there is still something else that's worn, and has enough play in it to cause a low knocking/rattling when driving over non smoothed roads.

tkswan
08-16-2011, 03:20 PM
That's actually a pretty common sound for Ford products of the late '90s and in to the '00s. The problem seems to be that either/both the outer tie rod ends or/and the ball joints get dry. Since these are maintenance free items, there is no easy way to keep them lubricated and once the grease dries out, they creak. What I've done to identify the offending joint is to use a needle grease gun fitting and insert grease in to one joint at a time. Take the car for a spin around the block and see if the noise changed or went away. If not, I move to another joint and do the same. Once I find the culprit, I add that to my "to be replaced" list as the grease is probably just a temporary fix.

If you do not have or do not want to buy the grease gun needle fitting, you can also use a can of spray lithium grease and a pick. Poke a small hole in the joint boot with the pick, then insert the tube of the spray grease in through the hole. Give it a quick squirt. The benefit of this is the spray will penetrate the joint quicker an probably allow you to find the noisy joint just by bouncing the car a few times, no need to drive around the block.

-Rod

hey Rod, do you still have to use a pickle fork to remove ball joints? The boots are in bad shape everywhere, the tie rod ends are the worst. I can grease them to quiet them down for awhile but im going to eventually end up replacing them. along with the sway bar. I think i have to replace the bar because the bushing cant be separated from it, and its in bad shape too.

shorod
08-16-2011, 03:27 PM
hey Rod, do you still have to use a pickle fork to remove ball joints? The boots are in bad shape everywhere, the tie rod ends are the worst. I can grease them to quiet them down for awhile but im going to eventually end up replacing them. along with the sway bar. I think i have to replace the bar because the bushing cant be separated from it, and its in bad shape too.

A pickle fork will probably make it easier, and if the boots are already shot, you don't have to worry about damaging them with the fork. Unfortunately, replacing the ball joints in the spindle is not as easy as it should be.

What do you mean the bushings cannot be separated from the anti-sway bar? I replaced the bushings on my wife's 2002. The hardest part was getting the bushing retainers loose, but replacing the bushings wasn't too bad. You probably cannot purchase OEM bushings without the bar, but you should be able to find aftermarket bushings, and that will probably quiet the knocking noise.

-Rod

tkswan
08-16-2011, 03:41 PM
A pickle fork will probably make it easier, and if the boots are already shot, you don't have to worry about damaging them with the fork. Unfortunately, replacing the ball joints in the spindle is not as easy as it should be.

What do you mean the bushings cannot be separated from the anti-sway bar? I replaced the bushings on my wife's 2002. The hardest part was getting the bushing retainers loose, but replacing the bushings wasn't too bad. You probably cannot purchase OEM bushings without the bar, but you should be able to find aftermarket bushings, and that will probably quiet the knocking noise.

-Rod

ok, thanks on the sway bushing advice. i was under the impression that the bushing could not be replaced on the OEM sway bar.

Can you tell me why replacing the ball joints is not as easy as it should be? and the trouble you ran into when you did it? as well as the issue with bushing retainers. Shop data is always a nice to have. I figure the best way to proceed would be to replace all the ball joints, the joints at the end of the tie rods, and since the sway bar is there i may replace that bushing while im there. I think that covers overhaulin the front suspension. or did i miss anything?

shorod
08-17-2011, 09:26 AM
As far as the ball joints go, I know others have been successful in replacing just the ball joint, but I was not able to come up with a contraption that would allow me to press it out with my ball joint press or using my 6 ton shop press. By the time I got that far, I was pretty frustrated with it. First off, the wheel bearing/hub was seized in the spindle. I had to destroy it to get it out. Once I did get it out, I was not able to get on the ball joint straight enough to press it out. There was not straight-on access to it even with the hub removed. Since I needed to order a new hub at this point anyway, I just went ahead and ordered a new spindle with ball joint already installed from Fast Parts Network. The new hub slid right in to the new spindle. Went together with no problems.

I probably still have two new Lincoln LS ball joints, in the box, in my garage....

The only challenge I remember with the anti-sway bar bushing retainers is wishing I would have changed the bushings at the same time that I did the DCCV. The bolt for the passenger bushing was somewhat blocked by the DCCV, but I don't remember having to loosen the DCCV to get to it, it just would have been easier if the DCCV were not installed.

Ball joints, outer tie rod ends, anti-sway bar end links and bushings just about covers it. The only remaining steering/suspension joints you're missing would be the inner tie rod ends. The strut plates can cause noise, but I don't think I've ever read of anyone on this forum experiencing noise from them.

I'll be on vacation for the rest of the week and expect to have limited Internet access.

-Rod

tkswan
08-23-2011, 03:23 PM
hey Rod, do you still have to use a pickle fork to remove ball joints? The boots are in bad shape everywhere, the tie rod ends are the worst. I can grease them to quiet them down for awhile but im going to eventually end up replacing them. along with the sway bar. I think i have to replace the bar because the bushing cant be separated from it, and its in bad shape too.


noise is mostly on the right side. I sprayed that lithium grease and it quieted down for about a day or two. Noise returned when that grease dried up. Now its creaking when you turn the steering wheel. Most of the boots are broken because they are oem ball joints and the car has about 14[something]k miles on it but the ball joints seem to be working as designed, no play in any of the wheels, it rides straight when you let go of the wheel, and the tires are wearing evenly.

I do notice that the excessive heat amplifies the noise. In Texas its been at least 104 for almost two months now. When I leave the garage in the morning the car is quiet but when things get all warmed up its loud again, (about 12 miles). Is there a temporary fix to quiet things down until the temperatures cool down enough. I don't want to do tackle this job in this heat.

shorod
08-23-2011, 09:40 PM
About the only temporary fix would be to use a wheel bearing or automotive ball joint grease (from a grease gun) in the joints and hope it doesn't ooze all over the place due to the split boots before you have a chance to get them replaced. Were you ate least able to identify which one joint appears to be the culprit so you don't need to grease them all up?

-Rod

tkswan
08-24-2011, 04:47 PM
About the only temporary fix would be to use a wheel bearing or automotive ball joint grease (from a grease gun) in the joints and hope it doesn't ooze all over the place due to the split boots before you have a chance to get them replaced. Were you ate least able to identify which one joint appears to be the culprit so you don't need to grease them all up?

-Rod

Mostly the right side but when i replace them im planning to do both sides and the stabilizer bar bushing.

tkswan
08-28-2011, 05:18 PM
strange. i used the lithium grease and it quieted down for about a day or two. Then it got loud again. now suddenly its quiet again.

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