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Wont start just gives ONE click 98 lesabre


papason
07-30-2011, 05:43 PM
Turn the key and it clicks ONCE. nothing else. mulitiple tries got one start. then no more and proceded to take out starter.

battery tested good but had new one so put it in, starter bench tested good but put in new one still same issue.

Put a test light on the pos. cable at the starter end it lit up good. Not used a volt meter yet. I can wiggle wires while someone turns the key. wont be anyone around for a while


Cable look good connections tight what do I look at from here?

jon@af
07-30-2011, 07:18 PM
Turn the key and it clicks ONCE. nothing else. mulitiple tries got one start. then no more and proceded to take out starter.

battery tested good but had new one so put it in, starter bench tested good but put in new one still same issue.

Put a test light on the pos. cable at the starter end it lit up good. Not used a volt meter yet. I can wiggle wires while someone turns the key. wont be anyone around for a while


Cable look good connections tight what do I look at from here?

Make sure you check out your starter motor. Your starter and battery might work just fine, but if the starter motor isn't working right, you won't get much further than a single click.

papason
07-30-2011, 08:03 PM
I am not following that. I thought the motor and solenoid were o connected. Separate but one??

procaddytech
07-30-2011, 08:22 PM
This is not going to sound good, but take the belt off the car or at least take the belt off of the crankshaft pulley and place it so it won't get tangled if the engine starts. After the belt is removed, try to start the engine, hope fully it will. If it starts, find out what accessory is loced up. A/C, alternator, etc. If it still only clicks, try to turn the engine by hand. You should be able to access the crankshaft bolt through the front wheel well, or use the flywheel. If you cannot turn it over by hand, your next check is to see if it will crank over with the spark plugs removed and see if coolant shoots out of the cylinder(s) through the plug hole indicating a hydrostatic lock. Do these tests and we can go from there.
A friend of mine once got a truck that was said to have a locked up engine and all it needed was an alternator! Great deal.

imidazol97
07-30-2011, 08:30 PM
ProCaddy has a good point that it may be hydrolocked with a coolant leak in the intake manifold or the lower intake gaskets.

To differentiate would require hearing the sound of the starter with the one click. Is it a solid sound? or a light sound just like a relay clicking?

Or with the headlights on, does the click make the headlights dim due to the current draw to the starter working against the hydrolocked piston in a cylinder? or you might be able to see the dimming in the interior light on the ceiling while the key is turned to ON.

If you're not getting a power drain, have someone tap a hammer against the starter housing below the front exhaust manifold while you turn the key to on. The vibration may cause the solenoid to make contact again on the main relay and engage the starter.

I've been through that twice with my 98. The starter gets some oil drip from the seeping oil pan gasket. That oil fouls the contacts in the solenoid. That story came from the AC Delco authorized rebuilder shop where I exchanged the first starter.

Or you've got a poor connection between the two red cables at the battery. There is a lead cylinder between them to carry the current to both. This may be corroded.

papason
07-30-2011, 10:12 PM
OKJ. those were great thanks.
I took the belt of and first two or there tries just the click. Then tried again and it turned over. So did again and it started it put belt back on and it started. Started several times. Sounds normal looks normal.
SO WHAT the heck?!?!?!?! What do I look for? can I trust it?

INFO. The intake issue was fixed supposedly, by the dealer a few years back.
So if they did it and did it right I was thinking fluid in the cylinders was still scary but did not expect that.
before removing the starter I checked for codes it was clear BUT i had already removed both battery cables for a spell. I dont remember but dont think this car will store a code if it had one, after doing that. is a 98 lesabre.
Also a few months back it would not start, too tired to remember for sure but think it died and would turnover but not start code po300 I think. chekced some thngs and have to give it the shop. They found ignition module and replaced. I suspected the crank sensor. Do you all think this is a related issue.?

papason
07-30-2011, 10:21 PM
I pulled two front plugs the tips are white not crusty, I dont remeber plug tells but thought they should be brown. Nothing else seemed off. Not sure how many miles on em would have to look it up, but did not expect to replace them again

HotZ28
07-30-2011, 11:14 PM
I assume both battery cables are clean & tight. If so, what is the battery voltage with engine off? Also, what is the battery voltage with the engine running? Have you had a load test preformed on the battery?

papason
07-31-2011, 02:54 AM
Cables look good. Old batt load tested. Was told was good put in new batt. Tho and am assuming it is good.

procaddytech
07-31-2011, 07:25 AM
In the other thread you mentioned that your starter tested good at 2 stores. Did you put the original starter back on or a new/reman one? If you put the original back on I still suspect the starter. If you replaced it, double and triple check all connections. Battery cable terminals must be clean and tight at the battery. Folow the ground cable(s) from the battery and make sure the connection is clean and tight at both ends. The other thing that could cause low voltage to the starter solenoid is the starter enable relay. If the contacts are burnt or not making good connection at times they may be dropping a few volts not leaving enough voltage to fully engage the starter. You need to make sure you are getting a full 12 volts to the purple wire at the starter while cranking and a full 12 volts at the big wire on the motor at all times. The starter enable relay is under the left hand of the instrument panel, above the instrument panel fuse block. As suggested earlier by imidazol97, is that the click you are hearing or are you hearing the starter click? Have you tried tapping on the starter while your wife cranks the car? If you can read/understand schematics I can post one or link you to it.

papason
07-31-2011, 10:08 AM
The starter on car now is new/rebuilt.

I was going to testa voltage today. But am thinking probly get pretty good numbers if it is working fine. Like it is now. The starter relay I forgot about will look for that thanks.

I can do pretty well with schematics

Had not tried the hammer beforre on this issue. Not needed now while it is working of course but if it does it again.

The click? This is bothering me I think it has a sound like it could be the starter. ButWell for one my hearing is not the best anymore. It is short but seems heavy enough and until the question was asked I had not considered the noise was anything else. Some times we miss things cause we jump to something reasonable and think like there is nothing else. I only heard it from the under the hood 2 or three times when it first happened. All other times I was turning the key. From memory it seems like the right sound and coming from the right area.

I have focused on the positive cable. will look at the ground today I hope. We have out of towners visiting.

Sure seems odd it started after removing the belt and then just kept working. Belt could have been coincidence. If something was locked up Do ya think it could get nocked loose this way and stay fine???

I am going to drive it a little this morning. Dont wanna get too far away, cause I am not ready to trust it yet. I am thinking I wont shut it off away from home for while. Unless I figure it out.

procaddytech
07-31-2011, 11:01 AM
A starter solenoid click is quite distinct a not easily mistaken, esp if you have you have heard one before. As far as taking the belt off an freeing something up, it is more likely that a wire was moved and is now making good contact. The main ground to focus on bolts to the block right near the back of the starter (G102) and is shown in the picture in post 4 of your other thread. The other is just behind the battery (G105). Here's your schem, enjoy your company!
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e50/twabelljr/Starterschem.gif

papason
08-01-2011, 01:48 PM
I am gonn try to check those volts. If things are working I expect to find good readings, Right? How much drop before you would notice weak starter or no start. Im thinking not much if any. Wont it need the full 12 volts.
I have an oil leak/seep somewhere it is awful dirty under there. so much build up is why AI could not find that bolt holding the cover on. Looks like at leat an oil pan gasket but it is up high and in front some too. Geez

papason
08-01-2011, 02:53 PM
Volt drop at solenoid about 2

Was unable to confirm which was the starter relay

Cables look good connections look good brushed them anyway

The thing still starts but I dont trust it yet. Removing the belt did not touch anything but the bolt on the tensioner and the belt. STill it took 2 or3 tries before starting. That is not so uncommon for a wire corrosion or loose issue but every time since?

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