Windstar stalls after 150to 200 km


azharj
07-17-2011, 04:51 PM
Windstar 2000 stalls after 150 - 200 Km. No acceleration, speed falls gradually from 120 to 15 then the battery light red turns on. I completely stop to parking gear. It starts immediately runs for a few metre stalls again. After repeating a few stall-start cycles, it stalls again after 200 km. Ac vents keep on defrost position when speed is 120 Km and come to normal front position when speed is less than 100 KM. No OBD codes, no check engine light. Have changed spark plugs,fuel filters, air cleaners, fuel pump, oil filter, oil, gear filter, gear oil. Can anybody guide me?

Thank you.

wiswind
07-19-2011, 10:06 PM
Fuel pump relay and PCM relay are 2 things that come to mind.
Also....have you had the electrical system load tested?.....they should be able to do this at many auto part and battery stores.

A/C vents.......I am guessing that you have the vent selection to the "front" and the airflow switches to defrost when you are moving faster than the 100km per hour?
That sounds like a vaccum issue......you are loosing vaccum above 100km/h
For this, I would look over ALL the vaccum lines.......INCLUDING the power brake booster.

Your intake manifold vaccum goes to near zero under hard accelleration and high engine load.
Intake manifold vaccum is at its MAXIMUM at idle.
There is a vaccum resevoir that "holds" a vaccum reserve for many items that require vaccum to work......particularly the air deflector doors in the heating/AC system.
If you turn the blower on with the motor not running......before you have had the failure you mention, does the air come out the vents that you have selected, or to the defrost.
If it is to the defrost, and you have not selected defrost, then you have lost the vaccum reserve while the vehicle was shut down.
It should hold the reserve, holding the deflector doors in place, overnight.
The reserve should also keep your airflow at the vents and not switch to defrost when you accellerate.....and vaccum goes down.

Another thing to check is the hose to the PCV valve, to make sure that it is not gone bad (cracked or super soft) from oil exposure.
I had to replace mine on my '96 due to it breaking down from years of oil exposure.
Also verify the fresh air INTO the rear (1999 and newer) valve cover to make sure that it is connected at the valve cover and at the flex hose that goes from the throttle body to the air filter / MAF.

There are a number of vaccum lines that connect to the back side of the upper intake manifold......that do a number of things......EGR, Fuel system vapor recovery, etc.

If wondering if the motor dying is due to the EGR system......you can, as a temporary test, unplug the vaccum line that goes to the EGR valve and take the van for a test drive......if the problem continues, it is not the EGR system.
This test WILL set the Check Engine Light with a code for lack of EGR flow if the system is working as it should.....although it might take a while to set the code.
So don't panic if the CEL comes on during this test.
Don't forget to plug the vaccum line back into the EGR valve.

The other thing that comes to mind.......that I have left for last.....because it is more $$$ is the catalytic converters.......it is possible that they are restricted and causing the problem.

azharj
07-22-2011, 08:19 AM
Dear Wisiwind,

Thank you for the informative reply, I really appreciate it. I have changed PCV hose and there is no leak. I will test driving with the EGR valve hose disconnected, but I would like to mention that three days back I drove about 2500 kilometers, and the problem of stalling occured after the first 400 kilometers for the next 400KM after which the car was fine, I would also like to state that the temperature was very hot (hotest hours 3-4 pm) when the problem occured. Many of the mechanics here are telling me to change the complete fuel pump set purchased directly from the ford motor company which includes the fuel lines and sensors. I am hesitant to do that, because I am not sure if it will rectify the problem or not, and the whole set costs around 400usd, which is not a small amount. Moreover, I have already replaced with the the Grand Marquis 89' fuel pump (only motor), the mechanic said there would be no problem . I also checked the fuel pressure sensor today, and its working fine, so is the PCM relay. A lot of people are also telling me to replace the What do you suggest I should do now?
Regarding the AC vents each time when I turn the AC on, the vent come to front position from foot and defrost position.
Thank you.
AzharJ

wiswind
07-22-2011, 09:35 PM
If one were able to monitor the fuel pressure while the problem is happening and compare that to normal fuel pressure, that would tell you if it is a fuel pump problem.
Fuel pumps can do what you are having happen....sometimes they fail intermittently.

azharj
03-16-2012, 11:03 AM
Dear Friends,
I have changed the fuel pump and filter about 2 months back. I drove 2400 KM with the environmental temperature being 10-25˚C, thanks without stalling, however, while accelerating there were episodes of 5 to 10 second duration of jerking with slow change in RPM and no acceleration. It improved spontaneously. Sometime, during constant speed also, there was sudden jerking and reduction of speed by 10 to 20 KM, and then after a few seconds spontaneously regained the speed. However, there is no check engine light. It seems as if there was no timing advance during acceleration, if we compare to olden times’ system of ignition with distributer.
You know I already, have changed TPS, IAC, and Plugs cleaned injectors. In many net posts, the defective CKS (crank shaft position), synchronizer fuel and pump cause the same symptoms. You have suggested, to change the coil pack. Given all this, now from where should I start, CKS, synchronizer or coil pack?
2. A strange phenomenon occurred concerning engine oil consumption. The only thing I remember, is that I used motorcraft injector cleaner for 400 KM. Now there is no loss of oil.
3. I also changed the steering oil pump and the high-pressure hose as these were leaking too much; tensioner and idler pulley as these were noisy.
I corrected the AC vent problem
azharj

wiswind
03-16-2012, 08:56 PM
Was this vehicle left sitting while you were trying to work though the issues?
The jerking you mention sounds like it could be transmission related.
However, if the vehicle has not been operated for a while, I would see if the issue changes (hopefully goes away).
It will take time for the PCM (computer) to relearn the drivability information.
Also, if the vehicle has not been driven, the contacts inside the Transmission Range Sensor, aka Neutral Safety Switch might be dirty.
This part is a high failure part.....MANY connections in there.
As a side note, the transmission fluid should be changed AT LEAST every 30K miles, which is more often that MANY people are aware of.
It is not real expensive to exchange the fluid......if you don't want to do it yourself, you can have it done at many lube places (although I would take my own quality fluid if not sure of what they are using).

olopezm
03-16-2012, 11:16 PM
Hi Azharj,

Press the O/D off button on top of the shifter lever, drive the vehicle and see if the problem goes away.

If it does it's likely you have a torque converter lock up problem know as Torque converter shudder. It's common in some transmissions (my Lincoln, for example). Most of the times, it goes away by replacing all the fluid in the transmission (torque converter and pan) and adding some Lucas transmission fix or Lubegard. I recognize it should be hard to find such products where you live...

I hope it helps,

Oscar.

azharj
03-18-2012, 11:08 AM
Dear friends,
Thanks for the reply. I do not know how to keep all the similar threads together. This is link of my same thread, I posted the in the other thread also: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1074785 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1074785)
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1064211

I really, appriciate the interest, vigilance and commitment on your part. I am thankful to you for the valuable suggestion. I did not kept it parked but driving. I am regularly changing transmission oil and filter after 20 to 30,000 KM. I will check the coil pack and the transmission range sensor. I hope lucas or ace fluids are available but I am afraid these additives may not worsen the problem. Another thing is that the problem of jerking is not a continuous problem it comes only for seconds and goes and mostly during acceleration but sometime wthout acceleration. Can it still be a problem of transmission? For your information I got my transmission checked according to them it is ok. However, I do not believe in the workshops, I plan to buy my own diagnostic computer.
This problem of jerking is about 2 years old, CEL comming (continuous) only once code I donot know. At that time mechanic cleared the code and changed the fuel filter. And problem of stalling is one years. There may one same problem leading to other or two separate problem. Since then I am chasing it and led me to change all these things
Thanks azharj

olopezm
03-20-2012, 01:00 AM
Hi Azharj,

If the problem goes away when you turn the O/D off with the button on the shifter lever, then it might be a problem with the trans. If it does not goes away, then DO NOT use any additives in the transmission.

As said before the coil pack is a common problem with these models, as well as the transmission range switch (trs) and the vehicle speed sensor (vss) which could cause the transmission to act funny and have some shifting issues.

I don't know if you tried it before, but the EGR system can cause some jerking too. Remove and block the vacuum line on top of the EGR valve. Drive the vehicle and see if the problem goes away. If it does we will troubleshoot from there. DO NOT replace the egr valve, these rarely fail.

Oscar.

azharj
06-11-2012, 04:34 PM
Dear All Members,
Thanks for all suggetions. Just to refresh, till now I have changed IAC, TPS, PCV spark plugs (Original ford) wires, Steerirng pump, original fuel pump, lower intake manifold gaskets; during this re-done of 0171 0174. The trasmission rechecked no defect, ATF (Mercon V) level and quality OK. Gear change and ratio normal, no code, checked with code reader, no code no pending code defect no CEL. Checked EGR VALVE as yiur advice. Cleaned the TRS harness VSS Pressed OD while jerking, it continued. Jerks have become frequent (during last 2 years), and now appear most of the time while reaccelerating the RPM reach are 1000 to 1500 and speed is 40 miles/h, or 50 to 60 miles/ h. Some time during jerks the RPM needle stuck at 1000 or 1500 despite the increase gas then suddenly RPM increase and jerk disappear, only to appear againe while reaccalerating RPM are 1000 to 1500. some time at constnt speed of 120 sudden Jerks and fall in speed and RPM. Now planning to change synchronizer, cpk, coil pack one by one in the order of inexpensiveness. Any suggestion

Sleepwalk
07-20-2012, 12:43 AM
Windstars are bad for coil packs. I've had to replace them in both my '02 and '01 Sports.

azharj
08-23-2012, 06:37 PM
Dear all members
Thanks for valuable suggestions, Since I have changed the ignition coil, I have traveled about 6000 KM. (2500 KM continuous in one sitting and 2500 in an othrer sitting) without any truoble as good as new I wished I had changed it before, and the problem of slight hard start is also over apontaneously. I am thank full to Wiswind Olopezm, 12Ounce and Tempfixitis especially and all other member in general for the valuable suggestions[/FONT]

olopezm
08-23-2012, 07:49 PM
Hello my friend!

I'm glad you finally fixed it; now keep that thing running and burning gasoline!

Take care,

Oscar.

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